Modern Patek line up terrible

[rolexstella]

Is it just me or has the recent Patek Philippe line up been terrible.

The modern perpetual calendars are a mash up of cluttered dials , Bréguet numerals, ugly color combinations. The calatravas have no elegance. The only pieces which are beautiful are the minute repeaters - and it’s because there is not much too them.

I feel Patek is following the short term trends and losing its way.

[Russell996]

Originally Posted by rolexstella

Is it just me or has the recent Patek Philippe line up been terrible.

The modern perpetual calendars are a mash up of cluttered dials , Bréguet numerals, ugly color combinations. The calatravas have no elegance. The only pieces which are beautiful are the minute repeaters - and it’s because there is not much too them.

I feel Patek is following the short term trends and losing its way.

It’s just you!

[Robine]

5196, 5119, 5146, 5130, 3940 or 5140, 5711. That would be enough. Ah, yes, the wonderful delicate minute repeaters, or these 33mm platinum rattapante chronos.

[rolexstella]

I mean let’s look at the new line up -
Calatrava & Calendars - 50% are blue dials. These are supposed to be elegant dress watches not sporty blue dial watches. The 6119R is bold and cluttered - not elegant.

Nautilus - green dial. Ok I love it, but with the success of the hulk , its just following the trend. A last crowd pleaser , ok.

For me the only recent Patel which knew what it was is the 5960P. It’s smart casual elegance. This is the real contender that people will look back on.

[HMHM]

Not really. Some are really good interpretation of old classics. The only one which was a bit of a let down this year is the AC in steel. But the rest of it are superb offerings!

[Ichiran]

Originally Posted by rolexstella

The modern perpetual calendars are a mash up of cluttered dials , Bréguet numerals, ugly color combinations.

I supposed my 5327 owe you an apology.

IMG_16052021_193051_(800_x_1080_pixel).jpg

[Robine]

5327R is nice, no doubt. But IWC called, they want their design language back.

[rolexstella]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

I supposed my 5327 owes you an apology.

Attachment 1221610

There is no doubt many elements of this watch are beautiful. And overall it is a pleasant watch. But for me it’s where Patek is currently going wrong. I see it as a what I call a “crowd pleaser” give the individual elements people want, large case, Bréguet numerals, perpetual calendar. But when you put the whole thing together it has lost it soul. It feels like the direction IWC was going.

It has the Bréguet numerals ,but in the past these would’ve been balanced by an elegant simple face. The numerals already shout at you. Instead they match it with a perpetual calendar dial with the enlarged font of the 5140! The face is just screaming font and numerals everywhere I look.

I get it - it’s what people want now... but look at the 3448 !

I actually think the rise of the indépendants like FP Journe is because of the inability of Patek to innovate. They are not necessarily my favorite, but Imagine if one of these said “Patek Philippe” instead.

[Partekular]

Subjective of course - but take a look - ON your wrist and after having checked you have the dosh in your bank account (which may be part of the problem as these watches are absurdly expensive ‘Veblen Goods’ ) at the 5230G and the 5172G. Both are classics Patek designs following the PP style and updated mechanics.

The 5172G is a joy to behold and the only problem with it is that it’s designed to be worn face up. The 5320G is grand complexity incarnate expressed as simply and readable as is possible.

The trouble with PP is that you need to be able to find one in the metal to appreciate it.

[rolexstella]

Originally Posted by HMHM

Not really. Some are really good interpretation of old classics. The only one which was a bit of a let down this year is the AC in steel. But the rest of it are superb offerings!

Couldn’t agree more about this stainless AC. The watch is confused - is it a sport watch ? Is it an elegant calendar with moonphase? Look at this bracelet - it’s horrific. I don’t know why Patek need to do this...

[rolexstella]

Originally Posted by Partekular

Subjective of course - but take a look - ON your wrist and after having checked you have the dosh in your bank account (which may be part of the problem as these watches are absurdly expensive ‘Veblen Goods’ ) at the 5230G and the 5172G. Both are classics Patek designs following the PP style and updated mechanics.

The 5172G is a joy to behold and the only problem with it is that it’s designed to be worn face up. The 5320G is grand complexity incarnate expressed as simply and readable as is possible.

The trouble with PP is that you need to be able to find one in the metal to appreciate it.

Actually these references you cite are the perfect examples of recent successes among the failures , because they have some simple themes. They are watches which broadly have a soul.

5172G- blue dial with chrono. Sporty with sporty.
5230G- not such a fan of world time so I don’t comment, but the cloisonné enamel is the best.
5320G- this is basically 3448 with a “sporty” upgrade the stick index change to numerals is well match by the hour/minute hand.
5960 to me is like a good cousin to this 5320.

[HMHM]

Originally Posted by rolexstella

Couldn’t agree more about this stainless AC. The watch is confused - is it a sport watch ? Is it an elegant calendar with moonphase? Look at this bracelet - it’s horrific. I don’t know why Patek need to do this...

The main thing I don’t understand with the steel AC is that they attempted the same concept with the bracelet for the 5960 and that was poorly received. Patek is hell bent on doing the same thing but expecting a different results.

Regarding hits and misses, I think generally all brands go through that though. AP with their recent black panther, Rolex with the Cellini, Richard Mille with the Stallone RM25-01. It would be unfair to single out PP when this year they have more hits than misses.

Generally their line up is fairly decent. Even with Calatrava there is the 5196P which is heavily inspired by the 570. The 6000, 6006 and the 6007 are good examples of well-designed calatravas. In the annual calendar there’s 5205, 5905. The 5172 is AMAZING! Probably the single Patek I’m in love with right now and the only one I hope to get sooner. Great throwback to the 1463 in steel. In terms of Perpetual Calendar there’s a progression from the 1518, 2499, 5004, 5970 and the 5270. So generally the backbone of the collection isn’t too bad.

[azizu]

Originally Posted by rolexstella

There is no doubt many elements of this watch are beautiful. And overall it is a pleasant watch. But for me it’s where Patek is currently going wrong. I see it as a what I call a “crowd pleaser” give the individual elements people want, large case, Bréguet numerals, perpetual calendar. But when you put the whole thing together it has lost it soul. It feels like the direction IWC was going.

It has the Bréguet numerals ,but in the past these would’ve been balanced by an elegant simple face. The numerals already shout at you. Instead they match it with a perpetual calendar dial with the enlarged font of the 5140! The face is just screaming font and numerals everywhere I look.

I get it - it’s what people want now... but look at the 3448 !

I actually think the rise of the indépendants like FP Journe is because of the inability of Patek to innovate. They are not necessarily my favorite, but Imagine if one of these said “Patek Philippe” instead.

The short answer is: yes it’s you
The 5327 comes from a line up that started in 1985. So way before there was a term called crowed pleaser. Back when Daytona’s were sold for discounts. Just go back to ref 3940, 5140 and 5327 and look at the DNA of all of them and you will see the design DNA.
That is more obvious in the 5320 which takes its design DNA from ref 1527, 1591 and 3448. Patek are so proud of their heritage that the don’t follow trends. They make trends.


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[Humble michael]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

I supposed my 5327 owe you an apology.

Attachment 1221610

Apologies from mine too - oh nooo it’s a blue ! Even worse Jin !

[Ichiran]

Originally Posted by james272

Apologies from mine too - oh nooo it’s a blue ! Even worse Jin !

Yours looks great buddy.

[Humble michael]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

Yours looks great buddy.

Thanks Jin I was thinking maybe I should hang my head in shame after op’s post , ha! :-)) I feel better now .

[Humble michael]

Ps , Jin , yours is gorgeous - very classy!

[Ichiran]

Originally Posted by james272

Ps , Jin , yours is gorgeous - very classy!

Thanks but Jin is Bear86. I'm the irrepressible Michael.

[fsprow]

[QUOTE=azizu;11457468]The short answer is: yes it’s you
The 5327 comes from a line up that started in 1985. So way before there was a term called crowed pleaser. Back when Daytona’s were sold for discounts. Just go back to ref 3940, 5140 and 5327 and look at the DNA of all of them and you will see the design DNA.
That is more obvious in the 5320 which takes its design DNA from ref 1527, 1591 and 3448. Patek are so proud of their heritage that the don’t follow trends. They make trends.

100%

[Robine]

Which trends did they make?

[Ellz]

I wouldn’t come to a forum that embraces PP and just stir the pot and flame- sorry but that’s just me :-(

[Robine]

They did not even "make" the trend of SS sports watches with an integrated bracelet - Nautili have been around since the early 1970s.

Instagram people "made" that trend.

PP was also quite late to the party in terms of increasing watch sizes.

And many things they are good at, e.g. worldtimer complication, enamel dials, cloisonne details - none of them ended up in watch mainstream.

So, no, trend-setters PP is not.

[MadSpaniard]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

I supposed my 5327 owe you an apology.

Originally Posted by james272

Apologies from mine too - oh nooo it’s a blue ! Even worse Jin !

@Ichiran & @james272: Great choices, so very fine – a "check" and "mate" rebuttal to the suggestion that "Patek is following the short term trends and losing its way" :-).

[Robine]

PP should be careful that IWC does not rip off this concept and call it "Portugieser".

[edhahn44]

Originally Posted by MadSpaniard

@Ichiran & @james272: Great choices, so very fine – a "check" and "mate" rebuttal to the suggestion that "Patek is following the short term trends and losing its way" :-).

Fair enough...I‘d still argue that the 3940 is the better and more thought through watch.


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[Watch Expert]

Originally Posted by rolexstella

Is it just me or has the recent Patek Philippe line up been terrible.

The modern perpetual calendars are a mash up of cluttered dials , Bréguet numerals, ugly color combinations. The calatravas have no elegance. The only pieces which are beautiful are the minute repeaters - and it’s because there is not much too them.

I feel Patek is following the short term trends and losing its way.

Patek is heading Vacheron direction

[Watch Expert]

Originally Posted by Robine

Which trends did they make?

Patek created trend on dress watch collectibles
The sport watches, Patek seems to be too speculative, uncontrollable explosions
that happen to many other brands previously such as Hublot, Frank Muller, etc.
Patek lack of boutique only timepieces, AP have many watches available Boutique only, and this way AP able to understand your genuine client directly without distortion.

It is good to sells trough AD, but the ultimate luxury experience is buying directly from brand boutique. They don’t ask you to buy this and that so that you can buy Rolex. It just makes the brand inferior, selling at same time with Rolex.

[macrowatch]

Originally Posted by rolexstella

Couldn’t agree more about this stainless AC. The watch is confused - is it a sport watch ? Is it an elegant calendar with moonphase? Look at this bracelet - it’s horrific. I don’t know why Patek need to do this...

Isn't that the same bracelet they always use on the steel dress watches though like 5960a? Although I suppose you could say that was ugly there too...

[1665fan]

Originally Posted by rolexstella

Is it just me or has the recent Patek Philippe line up been terrible.

The modern perpetual calendars are a mash up of cluttered dials , Bréguet numerals, ugly color combinations. The calatravas have no elegance. The only pieces which are beautiful are the minute repeaters - and it’s because there is not much too them.

I feel Patek is following the short term trends and losing its way.

I agree to a certain degree.....the pilots watch is laughable....like a Ulysses nardin or some other brand

[Ichiran]

Originally Posted by MadSpaniard

@Ichiran & @james272: Great choices, so very fine – a "check" and "mate" rebuttal to the suggestion that "Patek is following the short term trends and losing its way" :-).

Thanks bro.