Interesting comment on new independents

[llngoc]

https://open.spotify.com/episode/3a5...951261822a4096

At about 46 minutes mark on how some of the new independents are not as creative.

As a disclaimer. I do like a lot of the new comers but at the same time, there is an oz of truth in the observation.

[dchang81]

Didn't listen to the podcast but I don't disagree with lack of creativity. I like nicely finished watches, but it seems like the formula is add some guilloche and high polish some bridges. Need a distinguishing feature.

[WatchEater666]

Launching a new brand is way less capital intensive than before, so this makes sense.

It's just any other consumer category.

[vitalsigns]

Seems like a natural consequence of an already crowded field with so much already having been done.

It's increasingly harder to bring new and interesting designs and craftsmanship.

[piratfisk]

The only independents/microbrands that really catch my eye lately are JN Shapiro (out of LA, eye-wateringly beautiful & expensive) & RGM (out of PA, some pieces appeal to me, some in-house movements/modifications, watches are for the most part too large).

[Batmannr1]

I like to folow the guest of the podcast, Oliver R Muller. He shares a lot of insights in the Swiss watch industry. Pity though he mostly publishes his articles in French.

[Jay (Eire)]

Just look at all the hyped up new indies in the past several years, I’m failing to think of one that does anything innovative. Even on the design side, with the exception of Akrivia I cannot think of another interesting or fresh design. And even Akrivia has taken a back seat to RR now.

[GB-man]

We basically have a few dozen indies trying to recreate Breguet or Dufour. Many of these even though they make beautiful watches probably won’t survive. There needs to be a vision behind the brand and a unique design language imho.

[break]

Originally Posted by Jay (Eire)

Just look at all the hyped up new indies in the past several years, I’m failing to think of one that does anything innovative. Even on the design side, with the exception of Akrivia I cannot think of another interesting or fresh design. And even Akrivia has taken a back seat to RR now.

Read your post. First thought, easily: Krayon.

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by GB-man

There needs to be a vision behind the brand and a unique design language imho.

Sooo much this!

Did not listen to the... so am assuming we're talking about TRUE independent watchMAKERS and not just guys slapping together various 'custom' bits into a case. Nothing wrong with custom bits into a case, and for a few hundred bucks there are some fun pieces.

[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by Jay (Eire)

Just look at all the hyped up new indies in the past several years, I’m failing to think of one that does anything innovative. Even on the design side, with the exception of Akrivia I cannot think of another interesting or fresh design. And even Akrivia has taken a back seat to RR now.

Armin Strom

[charger_vital]

It always comes back to “get what you like.” Way too hard to predict which brands will be the next “thing” whatever that means.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John Doyle]

I'm surprised the crowd of self proclaimed all watch lover and watch loving independent collectors are not bashing the OP for this thread, while i get bashed every time i make a comment on how independents are not innovating at all despite what they all claim (and what a number of cult followers on TRF claim too) and that they do nothing for me, and that buyers should be extremely careful if they care about long term ownership including service, value etc.

Anyway, agree with you OP, many "independents" thought they could make big bucks by capitalizing on the last 3 years' state of affairs - I wish them all the best, but i have a feeling that I will be the last one laughing when they all join back under well established watchmaking companies.

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by WatchEater666

Armin Strom

May i humbly add MB&F please.

H. Moser's double hairsprings is a nice innovation too imho

[llngoc]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

May i humbly add MB&F please.

H. Moser's double hairsprings is a nice innovation too imho

In the interview, I think MB&F, Urwerk, GF and FPJ were mentioned as being creative. But the comment was on the newcomers and these are “old timers”.

If you watch the LVMH watch award interview with Jean Arnault. It explains why Raul Pages was selected. I was disappointed that Simon Brette did not get picked but I can see why. The shock resistant dente escapement is more of a technical innovation. And Raul Pages is being recognized for it on top of a beautiful piece.

[break]

Originally Posted by break

Read your post. First thought, easily: Krayon.

Seriously, though, gang: look at Krayon.

[charger_vital]

Originally Posted by John Doyle

I'm surprised the crowd of self proclaimed all watch lover and watch loving independent collectors are not bashing the OP for this thread, while i get bashed every time i make a comment on how independents are not innovating at all despite what they all claim (and what a number of cult followers on TRF claim too) and that they do nothing for me, and that buyers should be extremely careful if they care about long term ownership including service, value etc.

Anyway, agree with you OP, many "independents" thought they could make big bucks by capitalizing on the last 3 years' state of affairs - I wish them all the best, but i have a feeling that I will be the last one laughing when they all join back under well established watchmaking companies.

To be fair, Doyle, you probably get bashed because you're making overly exaggerated blanket comments to prove yourself right (i.e.) "...independents are not innovating at all." You know that's not true.

Are there some specific non-innovative independent brands who have popped up in the last 3 years "to cash in" that you'd like to mention? Or does this apply to all independents?

[break]

Originally Posted by charger_vital

Are there some specific non-innovative independent brands who have popped up in the last 3 years "to cash in" that you'd like to mention? Or does this apply to all independents?

Yeah that damned Felipe Pikullik and his cash-grabbing efforts to teach handcrafted watchmaking skills to a new generation of artisans. So money-hungry.