Breguet or wait?

[taura]

In the past years I have gone through a few dozen steel watches and kept a nice 3 watch collection spearheaded by a Datejust. Now I feel that I'm ready for something special and have set my sights on a Breguet 5177 with a blue enamel dial. It's very classy, yet feels relatively modern and the deep blue dial is just plain gorgeous. Both looks and price of the watch are such that I'd be comfortable wearing it in the office or at a nice dinner. I haven't found anything else under 25k (in the EU) that I'd rather have, and acquiring the piece should be possible in the near future.

Sounds like a perfect match? Almost, but there's a small niggling doubt in my head. I'm not particularly attracted to the idea of flipping 5-figure watches. One method I've learned to identify a potential keeper is to ask two questions: 1) would I potentially buy the watch even if I'd just won the lottery, 2) can I see myself still wearing the watch when I'm 70?

I'm not entirely sure the 5177 passes test #1. Frankly, if I had a higher budget, I might go for a Lange 1 or maybe something from Vacheron just to be sure that I'm not buying a Longines when I should be getting a Rolex (metaphorically). I don't mind having a simple watch (complications just tend to get in the way), but it should be the best possible watch (for me) in its category. I also don't care much about the brand's history unless it carries into the present in a meaningful way like design and quality.

Does Breguet "have it" like those other brands, and what exactly is "it" when it comes to Breguet? The good folk on this forum seem to regard the brand very highly. Should I go for the watch and not worry about having regrets later, or wait and see if I'll manage to save ~10k more to have more options? The 5177 is still available at fairly reasonable prices, but the retail price has been going up, so in worst case I'd just get the same watch later for a higher price.

[kunlun]

I think you are very confused when you talk about whether brands "have it". It sounds like you are maybe concerned with hype and what other people think. This is never a recipe for happiness or satisfaction in life, about anything.

It also sounds like you may not have actually tried any Breguet on your wrist.

Basically the short answer is only buy what you personally love.
You buy a watch, not a brand.

The best advice you will ever get in your life is to work on knowing yourself.

Take as much time to understand what you like and why. Along the way, learn something about watches. It will be fun!

[taura]

A fair comment kunlun, so I'll try to clarify.

I've tried many Breguets on my wrist and liked this one the best. I've also tried Lange, Vacheron, AP and some other nice watches, though not all possible options (never a Patek though, but I feel their prices are slightly inflated compared to other dress watches).

I think I know myself well enough to know what kind of watches I like. For example, Lange has nothing interesting (to me) available at similar prices because of their very traditional style. Brand image isn't important to me, but good availability of service is a plus.

I'm venturing into new territory, so I'm trying to feel my way around a bit before spending a lot of money. Someone new to watches couldn't necessarily distinguish between a $2k sports watch and a $10k sports watch, but it doesn't mean there isn't a difference beyond brand image. It can just be very difficult to understand beyond certain level without actually owning the watches. So I'm asking for opinions from people with more experience with Breguet and perhaps other watches of similar style, particularly if they find Breguet watches to lack something in comparison, whether it's in quality or design.

Of course it's subjective, but don't worry, I'll be able to think for myself and form my own opinion.

[kunlun]

Thank you for clarifying, that's helpful!

I can tell you that I have 11 Breguet watches and that I smile every time I look down at my wrist when I wear them.

I also own the 5177bb with blue enamel dial and it's a favorite of mine. Unlike a patek calatrava, the Breguet has hand-finishing, rather than finishing by machine
We're talking here about the anglage--one of the main types of ways the edges of the plates, bridges, etc of the movement are ornamented. Unlike the Lange 1, this specific Breguet even has two internal angles on the anglage, which for now can only be done by hand finishing, and are a sign of high end hand finishing. The rotor of the Breguet 5177bb is also hand guillochéd--the pattern is inscribed by a hand worked rotary lathe called a rose engine. There, in the enamel on the front, is a secret Breguet signature which is only visible at a certain angle in the right light--this dates back to the original A.L. Breguet's pocket watches.

So, that may give you an idea that for higher end watches, collectors tend to look at how much they enjoy the design aesthetics of a watch and also the hand craftsmanship. This latter can get out of hand and become a fetish, obscuring the actual horology of a watch, but in the right dose it is a very nice part of appreciating a higher end watch.

But, pretty much go back to my first post. If you love it, then it's right. Other reasons for buying will fade in time.

Personally, although I have higher end watches and will buy more, if I won the lottery, the 5177bb would still be a favorite. It's a lovely watch.

How expensive or whatever doesn't really change that at all. In fact, I have a 6-figure watch on order which I know I'll love, and I'm also looking at a new Citizen which I think will be wonderful. Go with what you love, it's worked for me.

[taura]

Thank you for the reply. That's one vote for Breguet! Just kidding, that was very insightful Love for a watch can also fade in time, and it's easy to be charmed by first appearances when moving up the ladder. That's why I'm trying to see if something comes up that I haven't thought of myself. Nice to hear some comparative comments about the hand finishing - it is gorgeous and I like the overall look of the movement (which is sometimes forgotten when people focus on just the details).

[Audevache]

Before you pull the trigger on the Breguet you should at least try on a Vacheron Traditionelle and a Lange Saxonia Ultra Thin. Both can be had at retail for about the same price. I’d personally go for VC in that comparison.

[lencap]

You have very fine taste, and if the Breguet is what attracts you, it seems you're on the right track.

Tom Mosso has done reviews on most of the finer watches over the years, and his review of the 5177BB highlights several hand finishing details that appear very rare. The case construction, for example, contains many non obvious details that are truly exceptional. I like the "stealth factor" of exceptional craftsmanship and "gray gold" case. He explains how special that choice of gold is, adding to the unique nature of the watch itself.

The link is here: https://youtu.be/Ky71Zw18pg4?si=K5n8gFIkssP6fnZH

All the best, whatever you decide.

[taura]

Thank you for the comments Audevache & lencap!

Vacheron Traditionelle small seconds is my runner-up choice and unfortunately I haven't seen that precise model in person (I've only seen the date/automatic). I'll try to find some way to view it in person before deciding.

Grey gold sounds new to me so I probably haven't watched to this particular video - or at least haven't listened to it. Thanks!

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by taura

Of course it's subjective, but don't worry, I'll be able to think for myself and form my own opinion.

Perfect!

And why, imho, it's kinda impossible for us to truly KNOW for sure precisely what your 'mind's eye' meets whatever thoughts / goal / asperations / etc you have for a timepiece.

Look fwd to what you choose. Breguet makes fine timepieces.

As a wildcard, Torsti Laine makes custom timepieces, so this provides you choices, many choices.... way you can choose the dial color / type / decorations, hands type and color, movement decoration and coloring / metal... and movement type, movement decorations (and gold if you want), etc etc etc as well.

Design your own... for the win :smoking:

https://www.instagram.com/laine_watches/?hl=en