Am I the only one? Vintage Datejust

[BubbleDate]

Hi all...

I am looking to buy my 3rd, and probably my last Rolex.

I was set to buy a Datejust, as I love them. A new 36mm 116234 or 116200, but I also waited 2 years for Datejust 41 in steel to come out so I could try it on, as everyone tells me the 36 is a girls size now.

I was so excited. Finally I could afford a new and serious Rolex. After a couple of years of research, I must say I am somewhat disappointed. I found Datejust II too big lug to lug and case diameter wise. I tried on Datejust 41 a few days ago and while it fitted me fine it seemed too thin- it seemed to lack presence and wasn't masculine enough, compared to the vintage Datejusts.


I understand that Rolex slowly evolves their models, but I found myself looking for classic features in the new Datejust watches, that seem to be either absent or increasingly becoming absent, for whatever reasons. Maybe production costs probably being a main one. Features like raised crystals, lug holes and lumed dials (that still looked beautiful), without resorting to non-lumed Roman dials. I found myself thinking, they should give the new Datejust a raised/ domed crystal and lume again. They should also keep the top of the bracelet and lugs brushed and polish the sides of the case and bracelet and the bezel, just like the new OP 36 is and prior Datejusts were. They should have kept the lug shape the same on the new 36 too, it curves down too much at the ends, as if to cater only to women now, whereas n 16200 and prior models it fitted everyone. They should also bring back the clasp on the Jubilee bracelet for the 36. I saw a guy wearing a 116234 and didn't believe him it was a Rolex for that reason and I owned Rolexes! The new large flat crystal with the cyclops lense on the new Datejusts 41 and II also just doesn't look right to me. It just doesn't suit Rolex to be contemporary.

You cant really get these features anymore on a Datejust. IMO they have wrecked the new Datejusts. The new OP 39mm was a good watch but they added coloured pips to the dial. They should base Datejust around this watch IMO. The only thing I like about the newer Datejust 36 are the larger hands. They are great.

I guess what I am asking is am I the only one who can buy a new Rolex, but would rather buy a vintage one instead, because of details like this? I would be interested to hear peoples thought on this.

I know vintage Datejust watches can be hard to source, especially with original bracelets in good condition. Lastly if anyone can recommend any good vintage dealers, I'd appreciate it. I would like to find a 100% original, unpolished example if possible with original bracelet. Thanks in advance.

[Toronto Soup King]

That's an interesting breakdown, thank you. I agree with your points and applaud your attention to detail - last time I was in the AD the OP36 was the only new watch I liked, too! I'd have bought one, but I can't justify a new model taking over a rotation spot from a vintage watch, I have too many already. And I think I still like the older ones a little more - acrylic for me, mostly.

I'm not as big of a DJ fan as I am a fan of non-sport non-date models, but we're agreed on the cases I think. Call me a girl if you like but I like the 36mm watches, they're great

[GGGMT]

That's a good analysis, and one with which I agree. Like many here, on the vintage forum, I feel that the new Rolexes have become garish and chunky. The last new Rolex I bought was in 1995. I love the vintage date just and have bought several of them. (I always buy with original box and papers, though many or most don't care about that). For me, They are size appropriate, feel good, look is crisp and disciplined.


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[Vincent65]

Just get an old one. Done. Massive thread with vetted vintage dealers in this forum.

[Tom1675]

Originally Posted by BubbleDate

Hi all...

I guess what I am asking is am I the only one who can buy a new Rolex, but would rather buy a vintage one instead, because of details like this? I would be interested to hear peoples thought on this.

I know vintage Datejust watches can be hard to source, especially with original bracelets in good condition. Lastly if anyone can recommend any good vintage dealers, I'd appreciate it. I would like to find a 100% original, unpolished example if possible with original bracelet. Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE]

Everyone on this forum prefers vintage and is happy to discuss any candidates for your purchase no mater what the reference.

Also, use the sales forum here to purchase and know that there are plenty of vintage references that are tough to find, Datejust isn't one of them. Be patient and hold out for THE ONE!

[BubbleDate]

Thanks guys. I didn't expect my OCD thoughts to receive such positive feedback

Toronto Soup King: Sounds like you have a great collection. I'm happy to hear you approve of the new OP 36, and yes the acrylic crystal vintage pieces are great and seem quite popular from what I've seen online. On sports models, the new Sub No Date is within my budget, just. I haven't ruled it out, but I'd prefer a watch with the date. Maybe I'm missing the point with this watch, (and it having no date) if you know what I mean. Anyway, half the fun is finding the right watch I guess

Vincent65: I'll check out the vetted vintage thread, thank you.

[Kingface66]

Tom, since you asked!.... I see the new, sterile, designed-with-computer-software, cookie-cutter Rolexes as completely different, and far far lesser animals than vintage models. May as well be two different companies.
And speaking of new Rolexes, don't even get me started on the General Forum here! ("Let's See Your Rolex with Your Favorite Single Malt, Monogrammed Dress Shirt, Steering Wheel of your Luxury Car!"

[GGGMT]

Originally Posted by Kingface66

Tom, since you asked!.... I see the new, sterile, designed-with-computer-software, cookie-cutter Rolexes as completely different, and far far lesser animals than vintage models. May as well be two different companies.

This!


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[javier]

Originally Posted by BubbleDate

Hi all...

I am looking to buy my 3rd, and probably my last Rolex.

I was set to buy a Datejust, as I love them. A new 36mm 116234 or 116200, but I also waited 2 years for Datejust 41 in steel to come out so I could try it on, as everyone tells me the 36 is a girls size now.

I was so excited. Finally I could afford a new and serious Rolex. After a couple of years of research, I must say I am somewhat disappointed. I found Datejust II too big lug to lug and case diameter wise. I tried on Datejust 41 a few days ago and while it fitted me fine it seemed too thin- it seemed to lack presence and wasn't masculine enough, compared to the vintage Datejusts.


I understand that Rolex slowly evolves their models, but I found myself looking for classic features in the new Datejust watches, that seem to be either absent or increasingly becoming absent, for whatever reasons. Maybe production costs probably being a main one. Features like raised crystals, lug holes and lumed dials (that still looked beautiful), without resorting to non-lumed Roman dials. I found myself thinking, they should give the new Datejust a raised/ domed crystal and lume again. They should also keep the top of the bracelet and lugs brushed and polish the sides of the case and bracelet and the bezel, just like the new OP 36 is and prior Datejusts were. They should have kept the lug shape the same on the new 36 too, it curves down too much at the ends, as if to cater only to women now, whereas n 16200 and prior models it fitted everyone. They should also bring back the clasp on the Jubilee bracelet for the 36. I saw a guy wearing a 116234 and didn't believe him it was a Rolex for that reason and I owned Rolexes! The new large flat crystal with the cyclops lense on the new Datejusts 41 and II also just doesn't look right to me. It just doesn't suit Rolex to be contemporary.

You cant really get these features anymore on a Datejust. IMO they have wrecked the new Datejusts. The new OP 39mm was a good watch but they added coloured pips to the dial. They should base Datejust around this watch IMO. The only thing I like about the newer Datejust 36 are the larger hands. They are great.

I guess what I am asking is am I the only one who can buy a new Rolex, but would rather buy a vintage one instead, because of details like this? I would be interested to hear peoples thought on this.

I know vintage Datejust watches can be hard to source, especially with original bracelets in good condition. Lastly if anyone can recommend any good vintage dealers, I'd appreciate it. I would like to find a 100% original, unpolished example if possible with original bracelet. Thanks in advance.

By the way, I have 2 Rolex vintage for sale. Datejust 16030 and a Turnograph 1625. Both in perfect conditions. jalvarez@grupoagv.com.ar

[onthedial]

@Bubbledate
Re: "I know vintage Datejust watches can be hard to source..."
Actually, finding a vintage DJ in very good condition is not that difficult, as millions were produced. I'm sure with a little patience you will locate one to your liking quite soon.
Enjoy the hunt!
___________
Instagram: @onthedial

[springer]

Originally Posted by Kingface66

Tom, since you asked!.... I see the new, sterile, designed-with-computer-software, cookie-cutter Rolexes as completely different, and far far lesser animals than vintage models. May as well be two different companies.
And speaking of new Rolexes, don't even get me started on the General Forum here! ("Let's See Your Rolex with Your Favorite Single Malt, Monogrammed Dress Shirt, Steering Wheel of your Luxury Car!"

I'm still waiting for the... "can I bowl with my new Rolex" thread!!!

[tamiya]

Originally Posted by springer

I'm still waiting for the... "can I bowl with my new Rolex" thread!!!

Lawn bowls or 10-pin?

Just being mindful of typical age here...

[Gina Marie]

I like the direction they are going. I have had a new 36 dj with the sj bracelet and liked it. I have had a 92 dj and liked it as well as a 62 and 68 tog. However, they are too small imho. Punted them all except what the wife grabbed. They remind me of a small omega.....looks cool but a little dated. I like the new subs and exploreres but that us as big as i go. Had a pani but that was horrid.

[BubbleDate]

Originally Posted by onthedial

@Bubbledate
Re: "I know vintage Datejust watches can be hard to source..."
Actually, finding a vintage DJ in very good condition is not that difficult, as millions were produced. I'm sure with a little patience you will locate one to your liking quite soon.
Enjoy the hunt!
___________
Instagram: @onthedial

Thanks. I've been hearing this. Definitely not in a rush and enjoying the search

I was amazed to hear some of the comments here. I was interested to hear that the overall quality and attention to detail of Rolex was better in earlier years. (BTW, I am not a fan of the counterfeit inspired engraved renhaut on newer models either and like the sterile look).

One thing I noticed with my first Rolex, a 70's two tone (champagne) Datejust I had in the 90's was when I screwed the crown in, the crown signature image was always displayed in the upright position. Quirky I know, but this fascinated me at the time. I don't see this with the newer Rolexes.

[tamiya]

Originally Posted by BubbleDate

One thing I noticed with my first Rolex, a 70's two tone (champagne) Datejust I had in the 90's was when I screwed the crown in, the crown signature image was always displayed in the upright position. Quirky I know, but this fascinated me at the time. I don't see this with the newer Rolexes.

Yours would be a fluke more than intentional.

That feature is a myth much like the various fanciful mythical driver-aid modcons a RollsRoyce is meant to have.

[jdmi32]

I tried on the DJ 41 with a jubilee bracelet recently and quite liked it. Much better than the DJ II, IMO. Just can't get past the polished lugs on most of the new models, though.

[daveo5]

'Girls' size. In this confusing era better say, 'ladies'. Rolex says ladies. Date just models for decades were of three sizes: 26mm ladies, 30mm mid-size, and 36mm. Several tool models in 40mm. I have a mid seventies 1630 date just. The crown on the winding stem is straight up. The gold is 14 k. That was usually indicative of the US market.

[BubbleDate]

Originally Posted by tamiya

Yours would be a fluke more than intentional.

That feature is a myth much like the various fanciful mythical driver-aid modcons a RollsRoyce is meant to have.

You absolutely sure? Mine was a 70's model like Daveo's here and the crown sat true when screwed in too.

[BubbleDate]

Originally Posted by Toronto Soup King

That's an interesting breakdown, thank you. I agree with your points and applaud your attention to detail - last time I was in the AD the OP36 was the only new watch I liked, too! I'd have bought one, but I can't justify a new model taking over a rotation spot from a vintage watch, I have too many already. And I think I still like the older ones a little more - acrylic for me, mostly.

I'm not as big of a DJ fan as I am a fan of non-sport non-date models, but we're agreed on the cases I think. Call me a girl if you like but I like the 36mm watches, they're great

Thanks. I understand your position on OP 36

This time around I think I am going to go for a DJ, one of the last acrylic (domed) crystal models similar to yours from 1986-1987 in steel engine s/s turned or fluted Seems to offer everything I like

I think vintage is technically 1963 and earlier, but do you know if 'vintage pieces' and from what year or in general are technically still water proof rated? I am reading vintage shouldn't be exposed to water (depths/ and atmospheric pressures like swimming). I guess its a subjective question and depend on a pressure test at the dealer, but I was just wondering if there were any other reasons vintage pieces are not recommended in or around water.

I like the Sub No Date as well, but I just seem to like the DJ better. It was different when I was younger though. I am in my mid 40's now.

[swish77]

Just get a vintage DJ. Still your best bang-for-buck vintage Rolex. I've tried on the new 41mm version and it did nothing for me. The fluted bezel is way too blingy, and the polished bezel is way too wide. And I can't stand the Roman numerals that ring the dials on the newer 36mm versions.

Stick to the acrylic crystal DJs. So many options. And there's nothing "girlie" about them. They're classic, and very versatile. They look great on a Jubliee, Oyster or just a simple leather strap.

[teb1013]

I don't know if my 1991 x model 16233 DJ counts as "vintage" but I bought it last year for a virtual song (as Rolexes go) got it serviced (by Watch Buyers Group) and it is as beautiful and runs as well as a new watch. I see nothing "girly" about it or its 36mm size. In fact my 41mm Black Bay (a different animal than a DJ I know) is at the very outer limit of what I can wear. I don't want a DJ that size. As has been commented there are lots of older DJs available that with a little TLC will last a lifetime. The original post and all the comments are interesting. I like the detail and consideration everyone puts in to their posts. My crown does sit upright, BTW.


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[GGGMT]

Older DJs rock badly. Here's my ~1987. Goes with everything, looks tight and professional and gives a tip of the hat to its earlier brethren of the 60s and 70s




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[Adambrown]

Great feed & I love my 1973 36mm Datejust. I've got much bigger watches but prefer this one as it's the perfect size & fit for any occasion


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[GGGMT]

Originally Posted by Adambrown

Great feed & I love my 1973 36mm Datejust. I've got much bigger watches

Great looking watch! Is that a gray dial?

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[august1410]

I have a 1983 15003 (18K/SS Date) and it it 34mm. I have smaller wrists (6.5-6.75 in) and I like my watches to fit snugly. The 34mm size of the date is just perfect. It is, as Rolex states plainly, a men's watch.

The notion that a 34-36 mm watch is just for women is ridiculous, in my opinion. Of course, there are folks who where Invicta watches that weigh a pound and have a crystal the size of a serving platter.

[Adambrown]

Originally Posted by GGGMT

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Thanks & yes it's a gray sunburst dial. Really like the blue dial you have as well


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[Vincent65]

Originally Posted by Adambrown

Great feed & I love my 1973 36mm Datejust. I've got much bigger watches but prefer this one as it's the perfect size & fit for any occasion

Thats's a handsome classic

[Adambrown]

Originally Posted by Vincent65

Thats's a handsome classic

Thanks Vincent65 you can't beat a classic


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[BubbleDate]

Originally Posted by swish77

Just get a vintage DJ. Still your best bang-for-buck vintage Rolex. I've tried on the new 41mm version and it did nothing for me. The fluted bezel is way too blingy, and the polished bezel is way too wide. And I can't stand the Roman numerals that ring the dials on the newer 36mm versions.

Stick to the acrylic crystal DJs. So many options. And there's nothing "girlie" about them. They're classic, and very versatile. They look great on a Jubliee, Oyster or just a simple leather strap.

Beautiful watch Swish77... They're all beautiful. Maybe its just me, but I notice the smooth bezel models seem highly sought after in vintage. Condition is amazing given the passage of time Thanks for the tips. After much consideration I will source another acrylic vintage ;)

While I appreciate Rolex had a very difficult time trying to incorporate lume on the new stick dials, I feel the new 'lume filled sticks' on the new Datejusts lose the shiny batons the vintage models have. Also on the new white faced model you can barely see the batons- while they are still very nice this just looks a little awkward IMO

[Mick P]

Chaps

Anything between 36mm and 41mm is fine on a Rolex, in fact I rate it as a non issue.

I would guess a 36mm Datejust slides under a shirt cuff much better than a 41mm model.

So just buy what you are happy with and then relax and enjoy it.

Regards

Mick