Modern Patek Sizes

[Tan]

Hey,

I've been debating the size question (big surprise, I'm sure everyone has discussed this at some point) around Patek Philippe mens wristwatches. Patek has in their current lineup 127 models for mens wristwatches.

It's about a 50/50 split of mens watches that are greater than or equal to 40 mm (i believe their max is 44 mm) and those that are 35 - 39 mm.

If we ignore the sports models and stick to the dress/complications, what range would you put modern sizes at for the average wrist?

I believe 37-39 mm would cover the average range and personally prefer the 37 mm pieces as they seemed to look the best proportionally compared to cases that are larger fitted with the same movements as their smaller counterparts.

Thanks for any and all responses!

[Codik]

I have a very net preference for cases at or (preferably) under 40mm. Fortunately the “big watch” craze seems to be disappearing.

[Bearxj86]

Depends on the wrist size and also on lug to lug measurements. I think 48-52mm lug to lug is a good range

[tyler1980]

40mm is a good standard size and unfortunately many references are below that. IMO a modern world timer at 38.5 is a bit ridiculous for a busy dialed watch.

[Tan]

Originally Posted by tyler1980

40mm is a good standard size and unfortunately many references are below that. IMO a modern world timer at 38.5 is a bit ridiculous for a busy dialed watch.

Well they started it at 37 mm, went up to 39.5 mm, and brought it back down.

[Bearxj86]

For my 6.75 inch wrist, the 5130 with 39.5 dial with those lugs was a tad big for a dress watch for me.




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[GB-man]

For dress I prefer 39mm but will go 1mm in either direction. 7'' wrist.

[tyler1980]

Originally Posted by Tan

Well they started it at 37 mm, went up to 39.5 mm, and brought it back down.

that makes it a non starter for me. most people dont wear dress watches anymore anyway as sports is clearly the go to considering people wear subs with suits. I just think it would be nice to have a dress watch in a more comfortable and modern size. I would get the Lange 1 timezone way way before a patek WT and that one is really only a dual time watch but it wears really well on me.

[Tan]

Originally Posted by tyler1980

that makes it a non starter for me. most people dont wear dress watches anymore anyway as sports is clearly the go to considering people wear subs with suits. I just think it would be nice to have a dress watch in a more comfortable and modern size. I would get the Lange 1 timezone way way before a patek WT and that one is really only a dual time watch but it wears really well on me.

I think the question is more what is the modern size for a dress watch. 40 mm would be the norm for a sports watch, but does the same formula apply to dress?

[tyler1980]

Originally Posted by Tan

I think the question is more what is the modern size for a dress watch. 40 mm would be the norm for a sports watch, but does the same formula apply to dress?

people are not buying dress watches, so yeah the size is part of the issue IMO. 40/41mm isnt big to me. Its fine for a dress watch and a bit on the small side for a sports watch as that is usually the smallest size option.

[Tan]

Originally Posted by tyler1980

people are not buying dress watches, so yeah the size is part of the issue IMO. 40/41mm isnt big to me. Its fine for a dress watch and a bit on the small side for a sports watch.

I think saying people aren't buying dress watches is a bit over the top, some businesses like Lange and FPJ thrive selling dress watches as their main pieces.

[fewwords]

People might think dress watches are uncool or for old people or don’t match the clothing but IMO that’s wrong. It just shows how effective the right marketing is.

Sure a dress watch looks ridicioulus on a Supreme or LV wearing ladyboy but on normal well dressed people with jeans or chino and simple shirt it looks very matching.

I’m okay with 37-42 mm on my 18.5 cm flat wrist. 37-39 mm is perfect for very simple dress watches (FPJ CB, Eichi II) 38-41,5 is perfect for more complicated dress watches (5960, 5270), 40-41 is perfect for heavy sports watches (Fifty Fathoms, Sub, GMT), 39-40 is perfect for sports watches (5712, 15202, 2000V), casual watches are perfect with 40-41 mm (Leman Aqua Lung, Aquanaut). Speedmaster at 42 mm is the biggest for me and actually an exception.

[tyler1980]

Originally Posted by Tan

I think saying people aren't buying dress watches is a bit over the top, some businesses like Lange and FPJ thrive selling dress watches as their main pieces.

those are niche brands and yes, not a lot of people buy them because they don't make very many. I don't personally know one person who owns a dress watch who is <45

I would buy one and i want one, but size is a turnoff for me as im 6'5 and wearing a 38mm and thin watch makes me feel uncomfortable. Tall people are pretty sensitive to things being too small as its hard to find clothes that fit too

Lange makes bigger watches so i prefer them to Patek for a dressy type watch. Lange 1's including the timezone, datograph, etc are bigger than comparable patek offerings or at least they have more than one size offering so you can get it bigger.

[Tan]

Originally Posted by tyler1980

those are niche brands and yes, not a lot of people buy them because they don't make very many. I don't personally know one person who owns a dress watch who is <45

Ok, something more mainstream could be Daniel Wellington. Very dress focused, lots of people bought them in modern times, and mainly a younger demographic. May not be horologically significant, but I believe this conversation is more about aesthetics than anything.

[ap1]

I prefer to live below 40 and I find that even on dress type watches such as Lange / CB the flatter they are the larger they wear. I think my 39 FBJ CB looks large Visually

[fewwords]

Originally Posted by tyler1980

but size is a turnoff for me as im 6'5 and wearing a 38mm and thin watch makes me feel uncomfortable

Let me tell you something: sometimes we think a certain style doesn't fit us because we don't like changes. Also most people like something because other people do. Just try for a longer time and don't judge until then!
Your wrist is tiny as fuck tbh. 38-39 mm simple dress would look amazing. Your pilot (actually a dress watch) looks kinda out of place. A dress watch with the same diameter as a sports watch wears bigger because of the dial size.
Also a dress watch addresses to be subtle on the wrist.

[Bearxj86]

I'm in finance and I deal with legal a lot. I think dress watches are more appropriate for those that wear dress shirts, suits, and jackets. I'm 32 and I do wear dress watches at work but yeah sports is still king. A Nautilus probably is more versatile than a dress watch for sure.

In general I would say 36 to 40mm is the right size for dress watches depending on wrist size. I had a JLC Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon and it was a 41mm and was too too big for my 6.75 wrist. The 39.5mm worldtime with long lugs was 1mm too big for me and the 37mm Patek 5153R was slightly smaller than I would like so 38-39mm is my sweet spot...again this DEPENDS ON LUG size.

The 36.5mm Patek 3970 is probably perfect with its lugs, but I sometimes wish for 1-2mm more.

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by Tan

I believe 37-39 mm would cover the average range and personally prefer the 37 mm pieces as they seemed to look the best proportionally compared to cases that are larger fitted with the same movements as their smaller counterparts.

IMHO forget the new offerings and choose something from 1990-2000-ish range. This was a time when hand finishing was properly very impressive. Look for a timepiece with the Geneva Seal versus the made-up PP rating.

[AK797]

Originally Posted by fewwords

Let me tell you something: sometimes we think a certain style doesn't fit us because we don't like changes. Also most people like something because other people do. Just try for a longer time and don't judge until then!
Your wrist is tiny as fuck tbh. 38-39 mm simple dress would look amazing. Your pilot (actually a dress watch) looks kinda out of place. A dress watch with the same diameter as a sports watch wears bigger because of the dial size.
Also a dress watch addresses to be subtle on the wrist.

Watch the language, not necessary, esp when talking about someone else.

[Tan]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

IMHO forget the new offerings and choose something from 1990-2000-ish range. This was a time when hand finishing was properly very impressive. Look for a timepiece with the Geneva Seal versus the made-up PP rating.

Of course, I currently own a 5035 and previously owned a 5127. I don't mind the sizes up to 39 mm for dress, but I find for myself that the 37 mm was the sweet spot! I was interested in hearing how others felt about the subject.

[fewwords]

Originally Posted by AK797

Watch the language, not necessary, esp when talking about someone else.

I'm curious which phrase you mean? I don't see anything offending.

Actually misread his sentence. Thought he was talking about his 6.5 " wrist...

[SW1]

Originally Posted by bearxj86

I'm in finance and I deal with legal a lot. I think dress watches are more appropriate for those that wear dress shirts, suits, and jackets. I'm 32 and I do wear dress watches at work but yeah sports is still king. A Nautilus probably is more versatile than a dress watch for sure.

In general I would say 36 to 40mm is the right size for dress watches depending on wrist size. I had a JLC Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon and it was a 41mm and was too too big for my 6.75 wrist. The 39.5mm worldtime with long lugs was 1mm too big for me and the 37mm Patek 5153R was slightly smaller than I would like so 38-39mm is my sweet spot...again this DEPENDS ON LUG size.

The 36.5mm Patek 3970 is probably perfect with its lugs, but I sometimes wish for 1-2mm more.

You onlywish for an extra mm?

[ras47]

I prefer larger watches. 40mm is my minimum with my 7 3/4" wrists. 42mm is my sweet spot.

The Nautilus comes in a "Jumbo" size of 43mm. I'd love that in the Aquanaut.

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by Tan

I don't mind the sizes up to 39 mm for dress, but I find for myself that the 37 mm was the sweet spot!

It really comes down to what YOU like. IMHO there's far too much craziness over some modern timepieces nowadays. After 20+ years have seen some interesting pieces and crazy markets, yet this market is just far too insane as people dump currencies for anything of intrinsic value like watches, private jets, etc.

For me, there are some very nice moderns models. For example, the new A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down 'Lumen' (41) looks really great and would easily fit my wrist.

OP, find some great deals on the earlier models. There are an abundance of fine pieces out there for not-too-crazy prices and the movement work when Patek adhered to the Geneve Seal is steller!


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[G M Francis]

I’m happy with a Patek at 37mm (5196) and 39 mm(5146). They are for me the right sizes as the Patek DNA has always been a conservative, understated watch. Like wise 40mm for a Rolex sports has the feel of an authentic Rolex Professional watch. You won’t be surprised when I say I love my Panerai 372 at 47mm, it’s horses for courses.

[nyc2la]

I don’t think the dress watch is dead. I also predict they will make a come back.

I’ve been wearing a dress watch since my early 40s, and I moved to a smaller dress watch recently when I picked up this 36mm 3940p. My wrist is over 7”. The watch is smaller than what I had bought before, but I quickly adapted, and it’s easily one of my favorite watches in my collection.

Often times GREAT things come in small packages.

[OH2004]

Sports watches are in now bc celebrities and rappers are all over it and they influence via social media. Patek was never that popular with the masses but now even my 12-year-old niece knows Patek. A few years back you could walk into an AD and pick up a Nautilus/Aquanaut at a discount. Why didn't people buy it then? Sports watch craziness will fade at some point.

[Marciano490]

#bigwristsmatter.

[tyler1980]

Originally Posted by fewwords

Let me tell you something: sometimes we think a certain style doesn't fit us because we don't like changes. Also most people like something because other people do. Just try for a longer time and don't judge until then!

Your wrist is tiny as fuck tbh. 38-39 mm simple dress would look amazing. Your pilot (actually a dress watch) looks kinda out of place. A dress watch with the same diameter as a sports watch wears bigger because of the dial size.

Also a dress watch addresses to be subtle on the wrist.

sorry but no. My wrist is close to 7 1/2 inches on a 6'5 body frame. Im not wearing it with a suit though but would happily wear a 40mm or a 41mm dress watch with one. None of that has anything to do with wanting a "big" or oversized watch. My grandfather wore a 37mm watch and im in excess of 8% bigger than him which is proportionally what a 40mm dress watch is for me which would make both watches fit the same which is what i want, not bigger

My wrists are not huge because im thin, so it was more a proportion preference to my height. People are taller today although slightly but body mass as in weight is way up for most people when more than half the population is considered overweight or obese. So all i am saying is traditional sized watches are actually smaller on a lot of people vs the past if they are either overweight or tall.

[SearChart]

The long pointy lugs kill the fun for small wristed guys like me. Even the 5196 Calatrava looks funky on my wrist.

Nautilus fits weird, and I don't like the aquanaut.

Vintage Calatrava is pretty much the only stuff that properly fits me and my budget lol