The Rolex Forums   The Rolex Watch

ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX


Go Back   Rolex Forums - Rolex Watch Forum > Rolex & Tudor Watch Topics > Rolex WatchTech

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 23 November 2011, 12:28 PM   #31
Rolex Junky
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Real Name: Lorenzo
Location: Netherlands
Watch: 116710LN & 116201
Posts: 849
Great thread. I'm going to follow this closely. Good luck on your endeavor Chris. I'm tempted to do this also but don't have the balls to try it on my watches. I might give it a try on a cheep seiko.
Rolex Junky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25 November 2011, 05:20 PM   #32
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
First: There are pictures.. after my pages of ranting.. I'd skip to the pictures.. that way you don't read how bad I screwed up.. oops.. spoiler alert!

Ok guys, I figured I'd attempt the date flip adjustment [I want it closer to 12AM not closer to 12:02!]. I should have the timing computer later today whenever fedex comes around.. So this was a side project.. Still going to do that regulation!


So I decided to do something I had never done: Take the auto winding rotor off of the movement... From what I've seen it is held in place by the central jewel and a clip that has an access port, you pull down and release the lock and the rotor lifts off...

I had to try a few times [I need a better tool for this rather then the small phillips I had to use, I was hoping my oilers could do it but they were too delicate ]

Anyway, I got the rotor off no problem at all... Removed the movement from the case and set it in the movement holder Rikki recommended.. it was perfect! I felt so confident I even reattached the winding crown and got ready to do the hand pull and reset..
.
.
... Ok.. so after I chickened out (Long Thanksgiving and I may have decided to go into this rather tired..) I decided to reattach the winding rotor and call it a day... the rotor clip would not slide back towards the center jewel.. it just resisted and then I noticed at some points the rotor would float along as it if was attached.. then it would be limp.. on and off.. I used a plastic watchmakers stick to hold the center of the rotor in place and locked the clip back in.. but I had a hell of a time with the thing.. I was rather surprised..

A bit shaken, I checked the grease on the gasket.. still looked fine (even shimmer but no globs!) and placed it in it's little home and closed up the watch.. I set it on my trusty LG case back remover and closed it.. the problem I ran into is that I put a microfiber cloth down on the movement holder and I could not tell the watch case was sitting a little off... The result?

A bent spring clip inside the bezel.. How did I know this? I heard a god awful sound and the bezel refused to move..

Sooo.... () I decided it would be a good time to learn about uni-bezel mechanics

I removed the bezel easy enough with a tool designed to remove pressure snapon watch backs.. I used tape to shield the lug and popped it right off.. The spring clip was indeed worse for wear.. but the bezel had all kinds of gunk in there anyway.. so I cleaned it all up.. rebent the spring clip into place.. and snapped it back on. It actually has a much nicer action now that it has been cleaned

I learned the following:

1. The rotor was not so bad to remove, this is great because I can now secure the watch in a movement holder and it opens up the rest of the rolex world to me.. before I had to let the movement idle around on it's rotor like a turtle.. seemed like a really bad idea.

2. The rotor was rather pleased with being removed.. so pleased it did not want to return to it's home as easy as expected.. I think this has to do with my technique.. I'll have to learn more about this even though at first glance it seems it's a simple clip that you push towards the center of the rotor.. I think the key was holding it in place so it did not shift/fall out of clip alignment.



3. As Rikki stated before, to adjust the auto flipping timing of the date, the process is one that involves removing and reapplying the hands a few times.. getting it all into alignment as it should be.. a process I decided I was not awake enough for.. I'd rather not scratch the hands or my dial.. just yet.

4. How to destroy a bezel spring with a case opener [Impressive I know..]

5. How to repair a bezel spring.. with shear determination and testicular fortitude..:

6. That sometimes it's ok to run away.. and live to notscrewupyourwatchbecauseyourtiredanditsaholiday.

So... Please find attached some of the pics associated with this adventure..
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3332.jpg (57.8 KB, 1543 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3333.jpg (51.6 KB, 1531 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3338.jpg (54.9 KB, 1530 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3339.jpg (47.5 KB, 1537 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3340.jpg (49.2 KB, 1532 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3341.jpg (51.1 KB, 1524 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3342.jpg (59.7 KB, 1529 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3344.jpg (51.8 KB, 1526 views)

Last edited by LordNinja; 25 November 2011 at 05:33 PM.. Reason: Word edit
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25 November 2011, 10:46 PM   #33
Rikki
TechXpert
 
Rikki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Real Name: Rik Dietel
Location: Seminole Fla
Watch: 5512 s/s Sub
Posts: 1,818
Ok time for slight critique when tightening case back in a case holder the bezel should be removed on the sub because as you see when tightening it causes the bezel to go backwards which it won't do because of the click. The axle has to be fully seated before the clip will lock in and it is usually harder to lock than unlock. Other than that good job and keep going. Rikki
__________________
Century 21 Certified watchmaker
Omega Service Provider Trained
Omega OWME Certified.
Rolex Parts Account Holder.
Rikki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 November 2011, 01:06 AM   #34
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
*nods* I am curious, when the axle is fully seated can it support itself to receive clip? Or was I right in supporting it from the center? I noticed that sometimes while I attempted to seat the axle the weight would act as though it was secure. I figured it was the clip too close as I was attempting to activate it such that it half supported the axle.

Thanks for the pointers Rikki, marching along.

Last edited by LordNinja; 26 November 2011 at 01:07 AM.. Reason: Axle
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 November 2011, 02:21 AM   #35
Johny
"TRF" Member
 
Johny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Real Name: john
Location: Scotland
Watch: sub 16610Lv
Posts: 13,523
Icon14

great stuff chris.
__________________
"AFTER DARK" BAR AND NIGHT CLUB GM.
Johny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 November 2011, 03:46 AM   #36
316lad
"TRF" Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 1,642
Chris - this is an excellent thread - loving it.

I also have a tremendous amount of respect for the thought, patience and attention to tools that you're putting in.
You are the embodiment of -"If a job's worth doing...it's worth doing properly"

All the best and we're all watching this space with excitement.
316lad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 November 2011, 07:58 AM   #37
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
Quote:
Originally Posted by 316lad View Post
Chris - this is an excellent thread - loving it.

I also have a tremendous amount of respect for the thought, patience and attention to tools that you're putting in.
You are the embodiment of -"If a job's worth doing...it's worth doing properly"

All the best and we're all watching this space with excitement.
Thanks! I decided when I set out that I would post the good and the bad stuff right off.. Having most of the right tools helps but as you can see above a seemingly harmless case opener almost destroyed a bezel spring.

While it's true I can buy just about any tool... I can't buy technique like that.. That's really what I am after.. I'm looking forward to shopping for a pressure tester after I successfully regulate my watch. Timing computer & Microstella wrench are in transit scheduled to both arrive the 28th.

Hopefully I don't post a video of my watch crystal popping off
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 November 2011, 08:12 AM   #38
ayecarumba
"TRF" Member
 
ayecarumba's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Real Name: Paul
Location: ATL
Watch: the one I'm wearin
Posts: 526
Keep 'em coming!

Chris,

Best wishes and great job so far! Really enjoying this thread and watching you "dive deep." That's a great little set up you have going on with the workbench and all your parts. I did the TZ level 1 and want to continue moving on.

What kind of lighting do you use? I notice that all the swiss workshops use flourescent lights....been wondering if an LED lamp would be a good way to go?

Sorry to hear the case wrench was slipping! I was wondering if these rubber ball openers work (bottom of the page on the link):

http://www.ofrei.com/page557.html

Best wishes and thanks for letting us tag along.


--Paul
__________________


"Whether we wake or we sleep, Whether we carol or weep, The Sun with his planets in chime,
Marketh the going of Time." --Edward Fitzgerald
ayecarumba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 November 2011, 08:24 AM   #39
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
Thanks Paul, I don't know about the ball openers, I always assumed that a lot of cases were going to require more force then such a device could muster but I just have not used one yet.. so I can't really say.

As for the light, I use a generic light that offers 'Full Spectrum Sun Light' so my lighting stays the way I like it. I think LEDs would work as long as they are arranged to maximize their light projection.
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 November 2011, 08:32 AM   #40
Rikki
TechXpert
 
Rikki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Real Name: Rik Dietel
Location: Seminole Fla
Watch: 5512 s/s Sub
Posts: 1,818
The axle has 2 jewels that it sits in so you drop it in the hole and carefully rotate till it drops flush with the bridge then push the clip onto the axle it helps to have a little fresh oil when you do. As long as the clip is pulled out of the way drop and spin axle no need to hold anything once seated the clip will snap right on. Rik
__________________
Century 21 Certified watchmaker
Omega Service Provider Trained
Omega OWME Certified.
Rolex Parts Account Holder.
Rikki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 November 2011, 08:51 AM   #41
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
Thanks Rikki, I'll try that during the regulation. I decided to remove the rotor for that to keep it out of my way anyway. A followup question: Where can I get those plastic sheets for hand removal? I have the dial covers but the sheets seem to be a better way.
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26 November 2011, 01:01 PM   #42
Johny
"TRF" Member
 
Johny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Real Name: john
Location: Scotland
Watch: sub 16610Lv
Posts: 13,523
hi c you try you learn .
__________________
"AFTER DARK" BAR AND NIGHT CLUB GM.
Johny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 November 2011, 12:44 AM   #43
Rikki
TechXpert
 
Rikki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Real Name: Rik Dietel
Location: Seminole Fla
Watch: 5512 s/s Sub
Posts: 1,818
just get some 2by 2 or 3by 3 plastic ziplock bags cut the top sides and bottom off you now have a nice clear protective sheet to use over your hands. They can be used for quite a while as long as they don't get contaminated from errant oil or grease on the bench. Rikki
__________________
Century 21 Certified watchmaker
Omega Service Provider Trained
Omega OWME Certified.
Rolex Parts Account Holder.
Rikki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 November 2011, 01:09 AM   #44
Route 66
"TRF" Member
 
Route 66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Real Name: Steve
Location: Burbank, CA
Watch: 214270 Mark II
Posts: 4,121
Great thread Chris.

I've often fantasized about getting more involved in the maintenace aspect of my watches but that's as far as it's ever gone. It's nice to be able to do it vicariously through you.

I'll be following this thread closely.
Route 66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 November 2011, 01:10 AM   #45
Jagatai
"TRF" Member
 
Jagatai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Real Name: Philip
Location: NY
Posts: 851
Real great thread. Keep going Chris!
Jagatai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 November 2011, 01:24 AM   #46
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
Thanks guys, the funny part is because of the holiday here, the mail did not come yet that contains my final components for regulation.. So stay tuned :D

And Rikki, yet again, thank you :)
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28 November 2011, 08:30 AM   #47
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
OK FOLKS! Tomorrow is the big day.. I get both the timing machine and the microstella wrench at the same time. This will be an experience that's for sure!
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 November 2011, 02:02 AM   #48
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
Ok folks, one package in! Just waiting on the wrench.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3353.jpg (136.1 KB, 1379 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3354.JPG (122.0 KB, 1382 views)
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 November 2011, 02:10 AM   #49
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
And just as I posted that, UPS walked in!

After the Redbull I just had.. I'm going to wait a few minutes.. but stay tuned folks.. Months of prep!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Micro.JPG (127.8 KB, 1374 views)
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 November 2011, 06:47 AM   #50
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
Gentlemen... We have lift-off. Let me tell you about my experience thus far:

My watch is now +1 a day face up and -1 crown up which I think is fantastic. I had a bit of a nightmare episode during the regulation because the tools metal index that floats inside of it to tell you how many units you've adjusted the nuts on the balance wheel was USELESS. Perhaps it's the version of the tool I got? I wanted the original rolex but it was not at hand even for 300 bucks! (I tried hah)

Because the index on the tool was useless I had to sorta try and watch the nut turn to get a sense of what I had to do to the other one on the inverse side to balance it all off and keep it in poise.

I kept touching the balance spring as there was not much room in the case for my adjustments. I specifically purchased the tool that would allow me to do this in-case rather then the straight microstella wrench that is out there...

Anyway, after a few rounds of trying to get the thing in order, something went awfully wrong and all of a sudden my beat error hit 4+ and my watch was erratic between +80 and +120 a day! I was a bit concerned to say the least.. worried that I damaged the staff or the balance wheel.. I did support my work along the bridge with the curved tweezers as recommended by Rolex.. but still..

I noticed that if the adjustments were not 'balanced' on each side the escapement would not function/movement did not start itself anymore.. A slight adjustment and it would ease into life.. another slight adjustment it would really snap to it.. This gave me confidence.

I pressed on and eyed each of the nuts on the wheel noting that when I got the watch they were off even then.. not quite right. The opposite nuts should match..

I recalled that when I started my beat error was 1.6/1.8 to start with and that seemed odd to me.. So perhaps it was not 'me' but the state in which I set out?

I decided to spin them all the way down so I had a groundwork to start from where the turns of the screws had an absolute meaning to me.. Slowly but surely I worked the beat rate back in tune and dropped my error rate..

My amplitude started lower then it should of [280] and now it's behind me running at [270] from what I understand [Read somewhere?] the amplitude should be around 310? Rikki, hopefully you can shed some light on that number for me, after your done laughing at my antics.. or the horror wears off.. LOL!

I understand the amplitude is the degrees the balance wheel rotates... so it's critical to timing.. a smaller arc means faster beats...
Anyway: Since it started low I decided to leave it alone for the most part and focus on my beat error and gain/loss. I'm happy that I was wrong about offsetting the balance spring by touching it every so often with the wrench..

Sorry for the ranting, I just stepped away from the deed to write to you folks....


Having regulated my watch within the same parameters I got it but pushing back the gain I am happy..... I will say this is NOT for the faint of heart that's for sure.. and that as I reopened the case at least 7x [Left it lose to test and adjust] my technique with the wrench got better and better.

I found it easier to do without a loupe in the end, which seems counter-intuitive.. I wish the index on the tool was more useful.. but again.. perhaps the 'Rolex' one is better.

I hope you guys are enjoying my madness.. :)

I'll write up reviews on each of the tools in a week when my lack of technique is not the potential for undue bias.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3360.jpg (160.4 KB, 1367 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3361.JPG (115.1 KB, 1367 views)
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 November 2011, 09:08 AM   #51
MoBe
"TRF" Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 6,773
Well done !

Can you take a pic of the microstella tool in action,I understand how the adjustment screws work but I can`t picture the tool turning the screws.

Thanks
MoBe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 November 2011, 09:08 AM   #52
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
Thanks! What's interesting is as it's settled in a bit, the amplitude has gone back to 280. So I'm pleased with that.
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 November 2011, 10:51 AM   #53
Rikki
TechXpert
 
Rikki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Real Name: Rik Dietel
Location: Seminole Fla
Watch: 5512 s/s Sub
Posts: 1,818
Okey dokie so lets see first your beat error should be adjusted first after you wind the watch at least 40 winds loosen the screw on top of the balance bridge and move the hairspring stud arm either left or right till the beat error is zero. Then retighten screw. Now check amplitude at full wind it should be between 270 and 300. if not we'll talk about that later, now with the watch in the dial down position check timing if fast move adj screws out if slow move in always 2 at a time opposite each other equally. To adj screws hack movement and move balance to where it's easy and safe to insert tool the big screws for bigger adj's and smaller well you know. Set the time to 2 seconds a day fast. Now move to dial up then stem down stem left stem up waiting 10 seconds inbetween for balance to settle write these numbers down all 5 add them up then divide by 5 to get your average. We'll talk about delta and dynamic poising in a year or 2 lol Rik
__________________
Century 21 Certified watchmaker
Omega Service Provider Trained
Omega OWME Certified.
Rolex Parts Account Holder.
Rikki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 November 2011, 11:50 AM   #54
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
Again, fantastic response Rikki, I did not even think about the screw on the balance bridge!

Do you mean the squared off area in this pic I took? And the vectors shown back and forth? See below to aide answering.

Thanks!

I'll be bugging you a lot longer then two years from now, start running. :just kidding:

PS: Is the stud arm the lip under the jewel? In front of the lugs direct of the balance? [Under bottom arrow, sorta being pointed at by it]
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3360.jpg (161.7 KB, 1354 views)
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 November 2011, 12:09 PM   #55
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
ALSO Rikki, you just hit 1,000 posts! Congrats!
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29 November 2011, 11:29 PM   #56
Rikki
TechXpert
 
Rikki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Real Name: Rik Dietel
Location: Seminole Fla
Watch: 5512 s/s Sub
Posts: 1,818
Yes that is the screw and that is the arm you move it either left or right to zero out your beat. centering the beat is when the balance swings evenly to the left and right sorta like the tach and dwell on an old chevy you have to do one before the other. and thanx about the 1000. Rikki
__________________
Century 21 Certified watchmaker
Omega Service Provider Trained
Omega OWME Certified.
Rolex Parts Account Holder.
Rikki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 30 November 2011, 01:18 AM   #57
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
I see Rikki, can this be done while the watch is on the timing computer? Or will adjusting that while the movement is running create the potential for disaster? Would make it easy to observe the beat.. but I've found in watch repair there are fewer short cuts.. and for good reason!
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 30 November 2011, 02:39 AM   #58
Andelain
"TRF" Member
 
Andelain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: The Sandbox
Watch: ing your 6......
Posts: 1,379
Wow, great pics! You got more guts than I do, that's for sure. All I've done is open the case on my old Thunderbird to take pics to make sure it's real.
__________________
.


Andelain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 30 November 2011, 02:40 AM   #59
krone
"TRF" Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: us
Posts: 12
Like Rikki said adjust the beat first. While running, on the machine, the screw holds a plate that locks the stud. When the screw is loose the stud can be moved, it has some friction to it, and will not just come off. You are just adjusting where the roller jewel is in relation to the pallet by moving the end of the hairspring.

If you keep the tool horizontal with a steady hand you should be able to line the pin inside up with the lines.

I always allow for the flex of the balance, so you turn it and watch close and it will move a little and then you will feel the nut give, thats where you start counting the lines. I do this with a loupe.

On the larger nuts one tick is about one second on the 3135. The 2135 it is about 2 seconds. A quarter or even an eighth turn is a lot of seconds so counting the lines is important. Hack the movement and remember which nut you turned first, there are dots to help, always do opposites evenly.

Turn the balance so that you are not putting the tool on the side of the balance stud that the hairspring is attached to. If the roller hits the pallet and you can't turn it one way just go around the other direction.

If you did bump the hairspring, or the watch has been hit hard, that can effect the beat. You can gently stop the balance so that it is centered (let it tick as you stop it at mid point or take the power off), hack it then and look straight down at the hairspring. If it is off center you can very carefully touch it near the stud to center it. This can lead to a mess of correcting the corrections, so like many things sometimes less is more. If it is minor just adjusting the beat is enough. I use a clean black fine oiler to manipulate the balance, it has some spring to it so it is forgiving.

I use a 5x loupe mounted on glasses (if you go too high like 7x or 10x your focal length will be too short), 3c carbon tweezers, homemade movement holder. I sharpen/fix/fit all my screwdriver blades, tweezers, oilers, etc. Genuine Rolex opener fits between lugs on most models avoids the bezel problem.
My technique for hands is to hold the movement in the holder on its side against bench and pull hands from left to right, one at a time, without touching the dial at all, with anything. Hand puller is bergeon #1 without the center and with small notches I put in, to hold the hands, one small (grips second hand hub from the side doesn't pull up on the hand), one large(grips hubs of minute or hour hands).
For the crystal, microfiber cloth designed for glass or watchmaker tissue then an air blower. Sometimes if you fog it lightly with your breath then blow with compressed air, it helps take the static charge out of the dust.
Computer dusters can spray liquid that will leave a haze, they are safer when half empty. Best in bursts rather than steady blow.

For the date I turn the hands til it jumps, then put the hour hand on lightly so it does not touch the dial but is not tight. Turn hands slowly near the next jump and then adjust the hour hand to 12 exactly and set it fully.
Put on the minute hand lightly. Turn hands carefully near the 12, when it jumps I hold the crown so that I counteract the force of gently pushing the hand sideways to center on the 12. Then double check. Usually i can get it within half a minute, I like it to be before rather than after. Looking from the 6 across the dial with the loupe you can line up the second wheel (4th wheel) where the second hand goes with the center of the crown symbol on the dial by getting low and looking across. Using a plastic tipped hand setting tool for this that leaves no marks, can even do it with a hand setting press.

I like to put a very slight film of fomblin (not silicone) grease on the threads of the back of the case with a foam swab. If you loosen and tighten back a few times with the wrench they can grind a little or lock up, happens more with older watches. You can feel a difference hand tightening between dry threads and lubed.

Some of this is off topic, a few thoughts from a few of your treads.
krone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 30 November 2011, 02:40 AM   #60
LordNinja
"TRF" Member
 
LordNinja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Real Name: Chris
Location: Boston
Watch: 116610,116233,OsQz
Posts: 1,109
I wish I had a better camera. Well I guess I should just go invest in one. Might as well because I think it's safe to say when it comes to this kind of stuff I'm past the point of no return anyway.. Hah!

Glad your enjoying the thread. Just iPhone 4s pics, not bad considering.
LordNinja is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Takuya Watches

Bobs Watches

Asset Appeal

My Watch LLC

OCWatches

DavidSW Watches

Coronet


*Banners Of The Month*
This space is provided to horological resources.





Copyright ©2004-2024, The Rolex Forums. All Rights Reserved.

ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX

Rolex is a registered trademark of ROLEX USA. The Rolex Forums is not affiliated with ROLEX USA in any way.