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Old 2 November 2006, 03:17 AM   #1
Atomic
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Panerai buckles, 101

Hey guys, thought I'd chime in on understanding Panerai buckles.

There are three types of tang buckles available for Panerai straps:

This is a thumbnail:


This is a GPF:


This is a Pre-V type:


The thumbnail is the smallest and easiest to wear as it sits close to the strap and doesn't protrude. It has a gentle curve to the buckle, which, combined with the curved tang, allows the strap to sit very close and flat against your wrist.

The GPF (which stands for Guido Panerai e Figlio) is the biggest and is commonly called a bottle opener or fishtail. Most straps that come with a buckle sewn-in to the strap (i.e., you can't remove it without destroying the buckle) come with the GPF buckle. They generally don't have much curve to them and the tang doesn't have any curve to it. This means the buckle is big and bold and causes the strap to not sit as flat on your wrist.

The pre-V (which means pre-vendome era, the time before Panerai was bought by the Vendome Group - now Richmonte Group) is somewhat like the GPF in that it is larger than the thumbnail, but generally they have much more curvature to them, come with a curved tang and fit like a thumbnail, but with a more distinctive look. Some flare out and square off, while others flare out, then cut back in toward the strap.

The GPF are most historically correct in that they are like the ones that the original Panerai watches were made with. The pre-V ones have history with them as well, as they were the more modern type of buckle produced for the watches.

Buckles also come in three widths. OEM and aftermarket OEM-type straps are 22mm at the buckle and you can get the OEM thumbnail and pre-V types in this size. Most 'historical' aftermarket straps are 24mm at the buckle and all the buckles are available in this size. Some aftermarket Radiomir straps are 26mm at the buckle and all are available, with some hunting.

They are also available with spring bars, or as 'screw-in'. Some say that screw-in types are the most secure, yet 99% of luxury watches seem to have spring bars, so the jury is out. Screw-in looks more tool-like, though.

The pix above are borrowed from www.waccex.de. I have three of their buckles and they are great quality (316L SS) and the customer service is outstanding.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by Atomic; 2 November 2006 at 11:29 PM..
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Old 2 November 2006, 03:20 AM   #2
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Interesting how you Panny owners take so much delight in the little things of life!!
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Old 2 November 2006, 03:21 AM   #3
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Very cool, john. Thanks. That answers a lot of questions
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Old 2 November 2006, 03:22 AM   #4
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Interesting how you Panny owners take so much delight in the little things of life!!
Well, some WIS' have to look at the minutia of their brand... unlike Rolex owners.
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Old 2 November 2006, 03:25 AM   #5
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Well, some WIS' have to look at the minutia of their brand... unlike Rolex owners.
LOL! But seriously, as straps and buckles go, those are real solid looking things with a superb finish!!
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Old 2 November 2006, 03:34 AM   #6
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And this one John.

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Old 2 November 2006, 03:38 AM   #7
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And this one John.

That's a beauty for sure! Lets see the other side of the watch!
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Old 2 November 2006, 04:31 AM   #8
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They all look the same to me...






























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Old 2 November 2006, 05:01 AM   #9
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very interesting
thanks johnny.. i prefer no. 1 i think.. looks to be the most classy of the 3.
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Old 2 November 2006, 05:33 AM   #10
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I'm a big fan of the deployment clasp
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Old 2 November 2006, 05:51 AM   #11
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I'm a big fan of the deployment clasp
Ahhh deployments is Panerai Buckles 201.
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Old 2 November 2006, 06:06 AM   #12
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I have two "deployant" ( no M in there) type buckles. One on the 98 , resembles the thumbnail buckle, and the one on the 104 is more of a hidden style.
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Old 2 November 2006, 02:50 PM   #13
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Buckle has to match the strap the same way the strap has to match the shoes and belt.

On my rubber/carbon and Gators I always use a thumb or deployant (totally agree John, deployment is a pet peeve!!) and on the historic calfs I like the Pre-V or GPF style.
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Old 2 November 2006, 11:33 PM   #14
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The other thing is... buckles come in polished or a brushed finish. While some insist that the finish on the buckle must match the finish of the buckle, others mix and match.

Historically speaking, the original Panerai buckles (pre-1997) came in brushed only, despite the case being polished. I have three thumbnails (two OEM and one aftermarket but 24mm) and they are polished. I have two pre-V types that are both brushed. Personally, I think the pre-V/GPF looks better brushed. When it's polished, it looks bigger than it is.
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Old 2 November 2006, 11:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
Buckle has to match the strap the same way the strap has to match the shoes and belt.

On my rubber/carbon and Gators I always use a thumb or deployant (totally agree John, deployment is a pet peeve!!) and on the historic calfs I like the Pre-V or GPF style.
Not that I really care, but what is a "deployant" (no M) buckle/strap?
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Old 2 November 2006, 11:50 PM   #16
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I always thought it was deployment.


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Old 3 November 2006, 01:08 AM   #17
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"Deployment" is often written in error when people are referring to a "deployant" clasp. Here is a definition I found in a glossary of jewelry terms on-line:

"Deployant Clasp
The deployant clasp is a three-hinged folding clasp that appears hidden when closed. When the deployant clasp is opened, it allows the wearer to place the watch on the wrist without any difficulty. Often mistakenly refered to as a deployment clasp, it is easy to see why such confusion exists. The deployant clasp is the invention of Cartier; its name is derived from the French word deployer, itself derived from the Old French despleier, and it deriving from the Latin displicare, which means to scatter or more appropriately, to fold, i.e. a folding clasp."
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Old 3 November 2006, 01:11 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Avalon View Post
"Deployment" is often written in error when people are referring to a "deployant" clasp. Here is a definition I found in a glossary of jewelry terms on-line:

"Deployant Clasp
The deployant clasp is a three-hinged folding clasp that appears hidden when closed. When the deployant clasp is opened, it allows the wearer to place the watch on the wrist without any difficulty. Often mistakenly refered to as a deployment clasp, it is easy to see why such confusion exists. The deployant clasp is the invention of Cartier; its name is derived from the French word deployer, itself derived from the Old French despleier, and it deriving from the Latin displicare, which means to scatter or more appropriately, to fold, i.e. a folding clasp."
Well I stand corrected and I learned something too (albeit from an 'engineer' dammit ).

Thanks Al (and John and Daren). Now I know why I got all those strange looks from WIS' when talking about my deployment clasp.
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Old 3 November 2006, 01:19 AM   #19
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Well I stand corrected and I learned something too (albeit from an 'engineer' dammit ).

Thanks Al (and John and Daren). Now I know why I got all those strange looks from WIS' when talking about my deployment clasp.
It's okay John, that almost happened to me once.

To the other guys - I guess we can't laugh behind John's back any longer.....well at least not about this.
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Old 3 November 2006, 01:22 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avalon View Post
"Deployment" is often written in error when people are referring to a "deployant" clasp. Here is a definition I found in a glossary of jewelry terms on-line:

"Deployant Clasp
The deployant clasp is a three-hinged folding clasp that appears hidden when closed. When the deployant clasp is opened, it allows the wearer to place the watch on the wrist without any difficulty. Often mistakenly refered to as a deployment clasp, it is easy to see why such confusion exists. The deployant clasp is the invention of Cartier; its name is derived from the French word deployer, itself derived from the Old French despleier, and it deriving from the Latin displicare, which means to scatter or more appropriately, to fold, i.e. a folding clasp."
Thank you, Al. I always wondered why it was called a deployment clasp. Now I know it isn't. I will try to be more careful with nomenclature in futuro.
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Old 3 November 2006, 01:32 AM   #21
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It's okay John, that almost happened to me once.

To the other guys - I guess we can't laugh behind John's back any longer.....well at least not about this.
Al, gofakoffee, will ya?

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Old 3 November 2006, 02:04 AM   #22
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What's all the fuss about, you morons? I always knew it was "deployant"!!
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Old 3 November 2006, 02:10 AM   #23
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What's all the fuss about, you morons? I always knew it was "deployant"!!
Yeah right.... you have a hard time remembering what day it is.
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Old 3 November 2006, 02:15 AM   #24
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Yeah right.... you have a hard time remembering what day it is.
No, I don't. It's Friday....hang on, I think it's Thursday for some of you, so would that still make it Friday for me?? Sheesh, now you've really got me all mixed up!!
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Old 3 November 2006, 02:16 AM   #25
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No, I don't. It's Friday....hang on, I think it's Thursday for some of you, so would that still make it Friday for me?? Sheesh, now you've really got me all mixed up!!
See? that didn't take much.
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Old 3 November 2006, 04:33 AM   #26
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Thank you, Al. I always wondered why it was called a deployment clasp. Now I know it isn't. I will try to be more careful with nomenclature in futuro.
No worries Ed - I just used "the Google" to find the definition on "the internets." It was pretty easy.
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Old 3 November 2006, 05:54 AM   #27
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All this talk of straps but never any of one of the best made and best looking bracelets on the market. I guess I will get it more one day after I get one. Maybe its uncomfortable as a daily wearer?
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Old 3 November 2006, 05:57 AM   #28
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All this talk of straps but never any of one of the best made and best looking bracelets on the market. I guess I will get it more one day after I get one. Maybe its uncomfortable as a daily wearer?
Panerai makes a fabulous bracelet. But straps are the essense of the brand.
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Old 3 November 2006, 06:07 AM   #29
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Oh I get that part. but it seems that less than 1% of Panerai owners out there have one on a bracelet.
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Old 3 November 2006, 06:18 AM   #30
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Oh I get that part. but it seems that less than 1% of Panerai owners out there have one on a bracelet.
You can buy the OEM bracelet if your watch didn't come with one and there are great aftermarket bracelets available too. However, as you allude, a small percentage of Panerais are available on the bracelet from the factory, and many who buy one on a bracelet often remove it and integrate straps with their usage, moving back and forth.

But alot of guys and girls seem to like to stay true to the historic look. I could get a bracelet for my 01, but historically it's incorrect and I would never wear a bracelet on a historic-line Panny. But that's me.
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