SMPC vs BB ETA

[mgsooner]

I've been chasing my tail on a dive watch for what feels like a decade now, in reality only the past couple of years. I've had a Baume & Mercier dress watch for about a decade that has never gotten much wrist time, but a couple of years ago I got serious about purchasing another swiss watch. It was absolutely my intention at the start of my search for my purchase to be a diver. The search took many, many twists and turns from the Oris 65 to the BB 58 to the Sub C and so on. Ultimately I decided that the "perfect" dive watch (for me) does not currently exist. Well, it does, but it's a 14060m and for a number of reasons (including the mine field that is the pre-owned Sub market) I do not want to go down that route. I ended up moving away from divers altogether and purchased a 214270 from an AD and I absolutely love it. There is barely anything I would change about it.

All that being said, I now find myself right back where I started. I want to add a diver that I can wear during the summer to give my Exp a bit of a break. She's been in service for about eight months now and has rarely left my wrist, which means she's starting to pick up a fair amount of love marks. That's honestly fine with me, but I'd just like something to share some of the burden.

A little bit of background: I have a roughly 6.75" wrist, am 6'0", and am looking for something under 42 mm. I don't love ceramic bezels and don't like a lot of high polished details on a watch. My ideal is time only but can live with well-executed date windows. I have spent way too much time looking at divers online and have been unable to find THE one.


A few that I have had some interest in but ultimately eliminated:

Sub C - I was offered one by an AD but passed in favor of my Exp. It just does not sing to me. The execution of the ceramic makes it feel very "blingy" to me and the current case design makes it look too chunky (for me, anyway).

BB 58 - I just can't do all the gilt. It is a real shame because if you replaced the gilt with the dial and bezel from the blue BB ETA (which I'll get to in a minute), IMO you've got close to the perfect watch. The proportions on this are almost exactly what I'm looking for.

Oris 65 - I like the design, case size and proportions quite a bit but ultimately the specs (movement, WR) don't meet what I'm looking for.


Now, on to the two I'm currently obsessing over:

SMPc blue - the 41mm non-wave dial. What I like:

-The proportions are outstanding (47 L2L is about the best I've found)
-The color of the bezel and dial are just what I'm looking for
-The specs & heritage as a diver rank up there with just about anything

What I don't like:

-It has a ceramic bezel, although looking at photos it strikes me as less flashy than the SubC does. The numerals being painted in grey vs white give the bezel more of a matte appearance, at least from what I can tell having never seen it in person.

-The various high polished details. I don't understand the polishing on the lugs and the polished "ribbons" on the bracelet. I think I could learn to live with it, however.

-The look of the bracelet confounds me a bit. It just does not seem to fit a dive watch. The lack of any taper is something I'd definitely have to get used to coming from wearing an oyster bracelet every day.

-The HEV. Seriously, does anybody want this at this point?

-The placement of the date window at 3:00 and the fact that the wheel is in black on a blue dial is, well, not good. It's not a deal killer, but would look so much better at 6:00 with a color match background.

-I also don't really get the skeleton hands. Not exactly bad, but they certainly don't add anything of value for me. The hour hand looks far too stubby.

-Similar to the BB58, I can't help but be frustrated over what could've been. If you take this watch, remove the HEV and place a color match date window at 6:00, you've got an amazing piece - even keeping everything else the same.


On to the blue BB ETA. What I like:

-Handsome, understated blue aluminum bezel. No bling to be found here.

-Lovely matte dial with the rose & smiley, well executed snowflake hands, outstanding legibility.

-The classic oyster style bracelet with no "rivets"

What I don't like:

-I am concerned about the proportions. 50 L2L is likely stretching the limits for me. The sides of the case appear very thick, even with the ETA version being slightly thinner than the in house.

-The color match crown detail. I just don't need this. It's not exactly offensive to me, just seems a bit gimmicky.

-I kind of wish it had a blue dial to match the bezel. I like the dial a lot as is, but think this would've made it a more unique looking piece.

-I know I said I liked aluminum bezels, but they are inherently more fragile than ceramic. I am not one that needs to have my watches appear pristine, but will I begin to dislike the look of the bezel over time as it starts to pick up marks/fade?

-Does it look too much like a Sub homage? This is a superficial consideration that does not concern me a great deal, but the SMPC has the benefit of being unique whereas the BB does not.


Thoughts on my dilemma? As you can probably tell I've spent a fair amount of time thinking about it.

[Wembleyisgreen]

The Blue ETA Rose Dial especially on a strap is a gem. A total bargain at the moment.

[jeffahn]

If what you define as perfect ("barely anything I would change about it") is already in your possession, it's going to be hard to be able to swallow all the "don't like" for either choice.

Having a ETA BB, i can tell you after acquiring a 16570, it barely gets looked at ... too thick, too heavy on bracelet, etc. It also, in my opinion, has a very ill-placed lug hole position. Any strap you put on it, aside from the fully integrated rubber straps, look ridiculous to me as nearly the entire watch sits on top of the strap.

Part of the joy of watches is the hunt ... a 14060M is not that old of a watch and Subs are/were still ubiquitous...I would take your time and enjoy the hunt for one that suits your standards.

Also, IIRC, the previous gen non-wave SMPc had a highly polished dial .... i wouldn't ignore that aspect if things like a polished ceramic bezel are also a con.

[AEC]

I have an idea, but I'll bet you've already considered this: Christopher Ward C65 Trident, with the hand-wound movement and no date display. You can have it on an Oyster-style bracelet (all satin, the way they're supposed to be!), and you can choose blue dial/bezel or black dial/bezel. It's the watch you've drawn up in your mind, for $865

https://www.christopherward.com/c65-trident-diver-2

[NativeTxn]

I've owned the blue (non-wave) SMPc, and I currently have the Tudor BB Rose dial with blue bezel. I sold the SMPc a few years ago. I liked the watch overall. There were three main reasons I sold it: (1) the skeletonized hands grew boring to me, (2) the separate HEV grew annoying to me from an aesthetic perspective, and (3) The lack of adjustability on the bracelet got to be annoying in the warmer months (I sold it before Omega released the ratcheting/easily adjustable clasp that they now have) as it would get tighter than I prefer in the summer months in Dallas.

That said, it was an excellent watch and a great size for me. The bracelet was usually extremely comfortable and it wore extremely well on me (I am about 6' 2", 180, with about 6.6" wrists).

There are times I miss having it as an option, but I honestly don't regret selling it and if I was in the market for a dive watch at the moment, I would probably look at other options.

For example, I love my Oris Aquis Clipperton and don't see myself ever selling it. Not as "dressy" of a dive watch as the Omega so not something that I would ever really wear with a suit (I know there are some that say you should never wear a dive watch with a suit, but that's a topic for another day), but super comfortable and overall a fantastic watch.

As for the BB, it definitely wears bigger and it wears fairly thick. The L2L of around 50-51mm is pushing it for me, but there is still no overhang of the lugs so I don't feel that it is "too big." But it definitely wears bigger, IMO, than the SMPc.

I like the dial and the bezel and the overall look of the front of the watch. The bracelet is comfortable and there is micro adjustability on it, which can be helpful.

All of that being said, if I hadn't bought the BB to commemorate the birth of my second daughter and didn't have her name and birthdate engraved on the case back, I very likely would have sold it and moved on to something else.

Both great watches in their own ways, but if you think your "concerns" are going to outweigh your pros, then I would suggest looking at other options. I like(d) both watches, but I don't really miss the Omega that much, and if I put the BB away for my daughter and never wore it again, I'd be fine. FWIW.

[mgsooner]

These are some good points and some of the exact same thoughts that I've had. You're making me wonder if I shouldn't just go ahead and go full blast after a 16570. The problem with that is the market for 16570s is on the verge of going nuts, especially for polars. It might not be as bad if I settle for black, which I would likely be willing to do. I know I would want something in good condition, and likely one from 2009-2012. With the market doing what it's doing that would likely cost me at least 6K and likely more. That is just a bitter pill for me to swallow when the MSRP of a new Exp II is only 8100. It is maddening that Rolex took this watch up to 42mm, but that's another discussion.

Regarding the 14060m - the market is just too nuts for me to deal with. And so many fakes out there, frankenwatches, etc. It scares me to death. You're likely going to pay more for a 14060m in good condition right now than you would pay an AD for a new 114060. That's just really difficult for me to accept.

Another alternative is for me to just stand pat and do nothing with the hopes that someone (Tudor?) will step up to the plate and release a diver that I love that I can purchase new from an AD. I had high hopes for Basel this year only to get P01'd. This alternative may honestly be the best alternative.

AEC - I would absolutely entertain a microbrand if I found one that really sung to me. I don't like the font CW uses on their dials, but I have looked very hard at the Monta Oceanking with the steel bezel. Monta is doing some legitimately great things with their designs and the steel Oceanking looks like a viable alternative to the Explorer II at a fourth of the cost.

[sensui]

I don't have a large wrist (around 6.375") but I find the ETA Black Bays wear just as good if not more comfortable than a maxi case Submariner (I have a lvc so I can compare). To me I'd pick the ETA Black Bay over a normal 6 digit Sub any day. The new Seamasters are great and wear nice too....but I think I still like older wave Seamasters and that's why I'd probably pick the ETA Black Bay between the 2. Things like the cone shaped helium valve, heavy engraved waves, and the thickness of the watch in comparison to older ETA waved Seamasters keeps me from upgrading......oh that and the upcoming Bond LE that'll be a Seamaster, I want to see that before I buy anything.

[mgsooner]

Originally Posted by sensui

I don't have a large wrist (around 6.375") but I find the ETA Black Bays wear just as good if not more comfortable than a maxi case Submariner (I have a lvc so I can compare). To me I'd pick the ETA Black Bay over a normal 6 digit Sub any day. The new Seamasters are great and wear nice too....but I think I still like older wave Seamasters and that's why I'd probably pick the ETA Black Bay between the 2. Things like the cone shaped helium valve, heavy engraved waves, and the thickness of the watch in comparison to older ETA waved Seamasters keeps me from upgrading......oh that and the upcoming Bond LE that'll be a Seamaster, I want to see that before I buy anything.

Thanks, appreciate the input. There is a rumor that the Tudor dealer here in town has a NOS BB ETA. I’ve been meaning to get by there to see if it’s true.

[SkipperSteve81]

I understand exactly where you are coming from. I’ve tried to love the BB Blue but it wears too big. I love the size of the 58 but hate the fake rivets and gilt. A blue dial that size would be perfect or a smaller pelagos. I’ve been kicking the idea of a new seamaster with the date at 6 in blue or an aquaterra to scratch the blue dial itch at a good price point. Ultimately I’m in a holding pattern and will likely just save more and pick up a blue DJ41 on jubilee.

[mgsooner]

Originally Posted by SkipperSteve81

I understand exactly where you are coming from. I’ve tried to love the BB Blue but it wears too big. I love the size of the 58 but hate the fake rivets and gilt. A blue dial that size would be perfect or a smaller pelagos. I’ve been kicking the idea of a new seamaster with the date at 6 in blue or an aquaterra to scratch the blue dial itch at a good price point. Ultimately I’m in a holding pattern and will likely just save more and pick up a blue DJ41 on jubilee.

Yes, exactly! I absolutely love the aesthetics of the blue Pelagos. If only it were smaller. I’ve thought hard about adding a DJ and may still do so years down the line but my current plan is Explorer, something with numerical bezel (preferably blue), Grand Seiko dress watch. Then I’m likely done for awhile.

[NativeTxn]

Originally Posted by mgsooner

Yes, exactly! I absolutely love the aesthetics of the blue Pelagos. If only it were smaller. I’ve thought hard about adding a DJ and may still do so years down the line but my current plan is Explorer, something with numerical bezel (preferably blue), Grand Seiko dress watch. Then I’m likely done for awhile.

One thing to keep in mind is that, IMO, I feel like the Pelagos “feels” smaller than the BB ETA. The titanium of the Pelagos feels so much lighter and I think that makes it “feel” smaller even though they are very similar sizes.

When I’ve tried on the Pelagos I was shocked at how light it feels for a watch that size.

In reality, I wish I’d gone for the Pelagos over the BB when I bought it a few years ago.


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[mgsooner]

Originally Posted by NativeTxn

One thing to keep in mind is that, IMO, I feel like the Pelagos “feels” smaller than the BB ETA. The titanium of the Pelagos feels so much lighter and I think that makes it “feel” smaller even though they are very similar sizes.

When I’ve tried on the Pelagos I was shocked at how light it feels for a watch that size.

In reality, I wish I’d gone for the Pelagos over the BB when I bought it a few years ago.


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That’s good info and definitely something to consider. For the longest time I refused to even consider anything above 40 and anything with ceramic. I’ve since realized the case width is not the be all end all when it comes to how a watch wears, and that ceramic may just be something I have to accept. I’m trying to circle back around and open my mind to some stuff I wouldn’t consider in the past.