How much lug bevel for 1970 GMT Master?

[chessebj]

My GMT is about due for service. It was serviced last about 5 years ago, by an independent, and it is now running quite slow. The last service was crystal replacement and movement service only. The service before, which was in 2005, was by Rolex, and that was a full service.

I got the watch soon after that service. I don't remember the lugs having a very prominent bevel, after the Rolex service, but it's been a while. The bevel is pretty non-existent now (I wore this watch every day for years, and the case has taken a bit of a beating). I was thinking about sending this to ABC Watchwerks for a service, light polish, and re-bevel of the lugs. Are the wide bevels that I've seen in pictures of ABC Watchwerks services really appropriate for a watch of this age? Thanks!

[Lol-x]

I don't like the bevels and I would not allow ABC to do any bevels.
The only one I would permit to do bevels is Rolex itself, and I don't think Rolex would do it in any event.
The less steel taken off the lugs the better. Just a light polish is all I would permit and stress NO bevels.

[GeoGio Greece]

Correct ! Bevels accepted are only the ones executed by Rolex. When done by others, even if nicely executed, they alter the ratios of the lugs and the watch looses the original look.

Unless the lugs are extremely worn and strike the eye, I would never refurnish the bevels of my watches.

[Micha]

to me those refinished bevels look kind of artificial and exaggerated, therefore would not be part of my restoration/refinishing goals

[swish77]

Well, it's a case by case basis (no pun intended), but ABC can do wonderful work on bevels that is not exaggerated. Through the years, I've had watches polished by Rolex and ABC, and ABC's case work is better, in my experience. ABC also can lightly touch up lugs without a full polish, unlike RSC. The sides of cases are always off limits on my watches.

Also, keep in mind that not all RSCs are the same. The one in the UK, Bexley, is well known for its case work, but the bevels I've seen in photos from Bexley look too exaggerated for my taste. All that said, I agree that you should only do any kind of case work it if the bevels are rough, unless you like that look, of course.

Below is an early 16600 Sea-Dweller of mine that ABC lightly restored.

[greekbum]

I would take rebeveled lugs over a horrible polish anyday myself. It's what looks good to you.

[1675-David]

My 1970 1675 is very probably unpolished. It has pronounced bevels on one side and quite discreet on the other. These bevels were put there in much the same way as ABC do it, by hand, by a person sitting in from of a machine, so there are no rules. The lug bevel guy at rolex in 1970 had good days and bad days, just like the rest of us!

[joli160]

Originally Posted by swish77

Well, it's a case by case basis (no pun intended), but ABC can do wonderful work on bevels that is not exaggerated. Through the years, I've had watches polished by Rolex and ABC, and ABC's case work is better, in my experience. ABC also can lightly touch up lugs without a full polish, unlike RSC. The sides of cases are always off limits on my watches.

Also, keep in mind that not all RSCs are the same. The one in the UK, Bexley, is well known for its case work, but the bevels I've seen in photos from Bexley look too exaggerated for my taste. All that said, I agree that you should only do any kind of case work it if the bevels are rough, unless you like that look, of course.

Below is an early 16600 Sea-Dweller of mine that ABC lightly restored.

These beveled lugs look beautiful, great job

[nsumner]

For me, it all depends on the watch and condition.

[linesiders]

I like how ABC does the bevel/chamfer, however, a watch case is only unpolished once

Also depends on the year and model WRT how much bevel is correct or not

[chessebj]

I'm assuming that the amount of bevel/chamfer can be requested from ABC, since it seems to be one of their specialties?

[springer]

Regarding the original question posted chessebj, below is a good example of an original chamfer on a 1970 GMT. You'll see this style from mid-to-late 1960s through the 1970s.

The are many competent case restorers that can bring your case back to like-new condition without excessively polishing the case, chamfers or lugs. Below is a great video that explains and demonstrates the process to properly polish a case.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMuWrI-sCj8

[T<25]

Great video, Thanks Springer!

[chessebj]

Awesome, thanks Springer! That's a lot more bevel/chamfer than I expected.

[Michael M.]

Originally Posted by chessebj

Awesome, thanks Springer! That's a lot more bevel/chamfer than I expected.

FYI I'm assuming your case has been polished in the past, so ABC will not be able to cut a bevel quite like springer's on your case, as it has less metal/material to work with.

[chessebj]

Originally Posted by Michael M.

FYI I'm assuming your case has been polished in the past, so ABC will not be able to cut a bevel quite like springer's on your case, as it has less metal/material to work with.

Yes, it certainly has been. The lugs are still of decent thickness, fortunately. I understand that the lugs can't be the same, but I do think that they can be improved.

[droptopman]

Great post JP. Very useful information.

[Kingface66]

OP, any chance of seeing the watch in question?

[greekbum]

There is NOBODY who can put bevels back on a watch exactly as original rolex. They can make them look really good and close but not the same when put side by side. There are several 1 owner never polished 1675's on my instagram page to compare too. I can't figure out how to upload them here.

[powerfunk]

Originally Posted by greekbum

There is NOBODY who can put bevels back on a watch exactly as original rolex. They can make them look really good and close but not the same when put side by side. There are several 1 owner never polished 1675's on my instagram page to compare too. I can't figure out how to upload them here.

If you right-click and Inspect Element on your Instagram images, then press ctrl-f to search for a jpg, you can get the raw image source and just use that.

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