Changing straps

[LAFLARE]

Hi, quick question on the topic of changing straps,

Is it important that I use loctite when performing a strap change?

Do I need to "heat up" the screws so I can remove them easier?

Any other opinions and comments on strap changes would be appreciated as I am about to undergo this procedure for the first time on my AP.

Thanks

[1st amg]

For the first change, I went to my AP service center to unloose then for me as they are on very tight and didn’t want to take a chance to strip the head. You could also go to a local Jewler you trust just for the first one. After that, I can change the strap with ease. Or. You have a good screwdriver with a lot of steady, even pressure. Good luck!


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[lapince]

Oh I wouldn’t tempt it, even when I got my first Nautilus the watchmaker at Wempe broke the screwdriver taking off links, I thought my heart was stopping when I saw this, luckily not a scratch on the watch, anyways I really wouldn’t take the risk

[Islatate]

I change straps on my ROO 42mm and my Dual Time (from bracelet to strap) regularly....it takes a bit of practice to build up a steady hand but after a few tries, it's pretty straight forward.

The key is to get proper screw drivers - 1.2mm slot (flat) head tips work best for this job. For the first few tries, you can use masking tape to cover the sides of the case to prevent accidental scratches....once you get the hang of it, there is no need for the tape.

And lastly, I never use Loctite when I do my strap changes. Really not necessary if you tighten the screws just the right amount.

Good luck.

[LAFLARE]

Originally Posted by Islatate

I change straps on my ROO 42mm and my Dual Time (from bracelet to strap) regularly....it takes a bit of practice to build up a steady hand but after a few tries, it's pretty straight forward.

The key is to get proper screw drivers - 1.2mm slot (flat) head tips work best for this job. For the first few tries, you can use masking tape to cover the sides of the case to prevent accidental scratches....once you get the hang of it, there is no need for the tape.

And lastly, I never use Loctite when I do my strap changes. Really not necessary if you tighten the screws just the right amount.

Good luck.

I have been informed that there may be a slight touch of factory adhesive. Have you experienced this? Hence the reason why it is slightly tougher the first time to get the screw out plus my mentioning of using heat to ease up the removal process?

Thanks

[Islatate]

Originally Posted by LAFLARE

I have been informed that there may be a slight touch of factory adhesive. Have you experienced this? Hence the reason why it is slightly tougher the first time to get the screw out plus my mentioning of using heat to ease up the removal process?

Thanks

Yes, adhesive can be seen in the screw heads.....but does not really impede the process of removing the screws. Thus, it is unnecessary to heat up the screw heads/links to soften the adhesive.

Again, I strongly recommend purchasing high quality screw drivers to do this job properly.

[LAFLARE]

Originally Posted by Islatate

Yes, adhesive can be seen in the screw heads.....but does not really impede the process of removing the screws. Thus, it is unnecessary to heat up the screw heads/links to soften the adhesive.

Again, I strongly recommend purchasing high quality screw drivers to do this job properly.

Any good brand recommendations?

[AshAP]

Strap changing is easy. No need to use heat in my experience although heat does help adhesive bonds to fail.

IMO you must purchase BERGEON screwdrivers. You need 2 and I use 1.6 mm (not 1.2 as previously stated but I’m not saying this is wrong).

You will also need a Bergeon spring bar remover for the buckle and a strong pair of tweezers for the tiny screws, if you’ve got really nimble fingers then these may not be necessary.

If you’re still not sure about it then look back on TRF as there was a longer thread about this last summer.


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[AshAP]

Bergeon screwdrivers are available on EBay if you’re struggling with a US supplier. Also, HS Walsh in London have everything.


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[LAFLARE]

Originally Posted by AshAP

Strap changing is easy. No need to use heat in my experience although heat does help adhesive bonds to fail.

IMO you must purchase BERGEON screwdrivers. You need 2 and I use 1.6 mm (not 1.2 as previously stated but I’m not saying this is wrong).

You will also need a Bergeon spring bar remover for the buckle and a strong pair of tweezers for the tiny screws, if you’ve got really nimble fingers then these may not be necessary.

If you’re still not sure about it then look back on TRF as there was a longer thread about this last summer.


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Thank you for the recommendation Ash. I have attached a picture for simplicity's sake. The only screw that needs to be removed is the screw that has been circled in orange am I correct? The bigger screw found right above can be left alone?

Also, what is the difference between quality screw drivers and a set that I have bought for $10? In my head, a screwdriver is a screwdriver and if done improperly either way will strip the screw. Input?

My next question is the tang. I see no opening for a screwhead.

Thanks for your help!

[1st amg]

you need two screw drivers for that to be removed. One side you will place the screw driver on the screw head, while the other side you will turn your screw driver all the while holding the opposite side. The two sides thread into each other and if you only have one screw driver, you will continually just spin. I ordered years ago a specific tool for this from AP bands, plus my screw driver from ebay and I was set.

[1st amg]

http://www.apbands.com/shop/graphics...l1_540x405.jpg

This is what makes things easier

In fact, when I went to AP service center as I am lucky to have one in my home town as it is the AP service centre for Canada, the technician uses a similar tool like that.

[P2725TMB]

Do take Ash's advice on getting the correct screw drivers. The logic is they will fit the slots snugly and reduce the likelihood of one slipping out and, God forbid, scratching the case.

Yes, its the small screws either side of the strap. One is in effect a 'bolt' and the other an end cap. Impossible to tell which is bolt and which is cap until you undo them, but clamp one with one screw driver and turn the other.

[LAFLARE]

Originally Posted by P2725TMB

Do take Ash's advice on getting the correct screw drivers. The logic is they will fit the slots snugly and reduce the likelihood of one slipping out and, God forbid, scratching the case.

Yes, its the small screws either side of the strap. One is in effect a 'bolt' and the other an end cap. Impossible to tell which is bolt and which is cap until you undo them, but clamp one with one screw driver and turn the other.

Thanks for explaining that Any suggestions on the tang?

[AshAP]

Originally Posted by LAFLARE

Thanks for explaining that Any suggestions on the tang?

For the tang buckle you need the Bergeon spring bar tool, this slides in between the buckle and the rubber and located on the top of the spring bar and let’s you pull it back. You can also use a penknife but it’s better to buy the correct tools.

Honestly don’t use cheap screwdrivers. My AD got me some cheap Chinese ones which bent on the first attempt and it was a miracle that the case didn’t get scratched.


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[P2725TMB]

And when taking the spring bar out, be cautious that it doesn't catapult itself off, never to be seen again!

[Islatate]

Originally Posted by Islatate

I change straps on my ROO 42mm and my Dual Time (from bracelet to strap) regularly....it takes a bit of practice to build up a steady hand but after a few tries, it's pretty straight forward.

The key is to get proper screw drivers - 1.2mm slot (flat) head tips work best for this job. For the first few tries, you can use masking tape to cover the sides of the case to prevent accidental scratches....once you get the hang of it, there is no need for the tape.

And lastly, I never use Loctite when I do my strap changes. Really not necessary if you tighten the screws just the right amount.

Good luck.

Hi Ash,

Just a clarification on my part. The 1.2mm wide tips are required to remove the screws that connect the strap to the plots. The 1.6mm wide tips are needed for removing the plots from the watch case.

I could be wrong here but I've been using these 2 widths for the past 5 years.

[AshAP]

Originally Posted by Islatate

Hi Ash,

Just a clarification on my part. The 1.2mm wide tips are required to remove the screws that connect the strap to the plots. The 1.6mm wide tips are needed for removing the plots from the watch case.

I could be wrong here but I've been using these 2 widths for the past 5 years.

My Bergeon screwdrivers say ‘160’ on them which is a 1.6mm blade. I was wondering if the discrepancy was between an AP 44 and a 42 but then I remembered that a pal of mine uses the 160 width on his Diver.

I use the 160 width on the strap - plots screws not the plots - case screws. The 160 width fits snugly in the hole and is virtually the width of the screw head.

[Islatate]

Originally Posted by AshAP

My Bergeon screwdrivers say ‘160’ on them which is a 1.6mm blade. I was wondering if the discrepancy was between an AP 44 and a 42 but then I remembered that a pal of mine uses the 160 width on his Diver.

I use the 160 width on the strap - plots screws not the plots - case screws. The 160 width fits snugly in the hole and is virtually the width of the screw head.

That's really interesting Ash. On the four 42mm ROOs, the 39mm Dual Time and YG 15450 that are currently in my collection, the screw heads that affix the strap/bracelet to the plots are clearly smaller than the screw heads that attach the plots to the watch case.

So it's safe to assume then that on the 44mm ROOs, the screws to attach the strap to the plots, and the screws to connect the plots to the case are the same size. I've never owned a 44mm ROO so I will defer to you on this.

[AK797]

If you have a APSC near you they will change for free, and punch holes in straps too.

[LAFLARE]

Seems like I may have bit off a little more than I wanted to chew. I have dived into altering my Rolex bracelets with complete bravery but it seems like APs will be much more delicate and anything less than absolute precision will lead to tragedy.

I will look for two quality screwdrivers or for those with palm grips as recommended in the link above and also for a hairspring.

I had assumed that everyone here did strap changes by themselves. There is no APSC near me and I would think that I would change straps back and forth often so I guess I will start prepping for this little, potentially stressful project.

In the meantime I'm trying to find DIY videos on this but it doesnt seem like any are surfacing.

[1st amg]

After the first couple of times, you will be fine, what I do to protect the watch lugs as I can have a unsteady hand is, either put a piece of masking tape or scotch tape around the area, then poke a little hole through the tape so I can get to the screw head only, that way in case my screwdriver slips, I wont butcher the sides. I have also wrapped the case with plastic wrap, or here we call it saran wrap and again it protects the case well, poke a little hole through and expose only the screw head.

[Islatate]

Originally Posted by 1st amg

After the first couple of times, you will be fine, what I do to protect the watch lugs as I can have a unsteady hand is, either put a piece of masking tape or scotch tape around the area, then poke a little hole through the tape so I can get to the screw head only, that way in case my screwdriver slips, I wont butcher the sides. I have also wrapped the case with plastic wrap, or here we call it saran wrap and again it protects the case well, poke a little hole through and expose only the screw head.

Great suggestions Nick.

Another trick to protect the watch case from getting scratched during strap changes is to use a Band Aid instead of scotch or masking tape. Just affix the Band Aid to the watch case and poke a hole through it for the screw driver tip to reach the screw head. I prefer using Band Aids over tape because they do not leave an adhesive residue on the metal when they're removed.

[1st amg]

Originally Posted by Islatate

Great suggestions Nick.

Another trick to protect the watch case from getting scratched during strap changes is to use a Band Aid instead of scotch or masking tape. Just affix the Band Aid to the watch case and poke a hole through it for the screw driver tip to reach the screw head. I prefer using Band Aids over tape because they do not leave an adhesive residue on the metal when they're removed.

Nice idea! I will try that next....I will use the Batman or Dora the Explorer band aids from the kids stash!! Probably less sticky

[LAFLARE]

Great suggestions, I had a similar idea in my head to wrap with saran and then tape around too for an extra layer of protection.

My two biggest concerns are:
1) when I return the screws back in to the locked position, it somehow unwinds a couple months later and the whole watch drops (happened to my Rolex which is why I asked if anyone uses loctite, fortunately it did not sustain any injuries)

2) pulling the tang out correctly and without damaging anything (the comment about the spring flying away confused the hell out of me)

[Cryten]

Originally Posted by LAFLARE

Also, what is the difference between quality screw drivers and a set that I have bought for $10? In my head, a screwdriver is a screwdriver and if done improperly either way will strip the screw. Input?

Your $10 screwdriver set is made from Chinesium, a kind of pig iron that enables the manufacturer to make a screwdriver shaped objects that will hold their shape for long enough for someone to buy them.

Do not use Chinesium screwdrivers on anything you care about. The shanks will twist, the blades will deform, and on stubborn screws the tip will shear off completely leaving a nice sharp edge perfect for gouging your watch head or strap (and you will, as you'll be applying a lot of pressure when it breaks).

Quality screwdrivers are made from hardened tool steel, and will damage the screw head long before you can make any noticeable marks on the screwdriver. They are very difficult to break.

Don't go cheap on screwdrivers

[LAFLARE]

Originally Posted by Cryten

Your $10 screwdriver set is made from Chinesium, a kind of pig iron that enables the manufacturer to make a screwdriver shaped objects that will hold their shape for long enough for someone to buy them.

Do not use Chinesium screwdrivers on anything you care about. The shanks will twist, the blades will deform, and on stubborn screws the tip will shear off completely leaving a nice sharp edge perfect for gouging your watch head or strap (and you will, as you'll be applying a lot of pressure when it breaks).

Quality screwdrivers are made from hardened tool steel, and will damage the screw head long before you can make any noticeable marks on the screwdriver. They are very difficult to break.

Don't go cheap on screwdrivers

How does everyone know about my Chinese screwdrivers..

Thanks for your input and info. Worst fear ever is a heartbreaking self inflicted wound

[AshAP]

You’re right to be cautious but honestly once you know what you’re doing you will be able to change straps in under 5 mins.

BTW I’ve never wrapped my watchcase in protective material but I’ve got quite steady hands.


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[P2725TMB]

Originally Posted by LAFLARE

Great suggestions, I had a similar idea in my head to wrap with saran and then tape around too for an extra layer of protection.

My two biggest concerns are:
1) when I return the screws back in to the locked position, it somehow unwinds a couple months later and the whole watch drops (happened to my Rolex which is why I asked if anyone uses loctite, fortunately it did not sustain any injuries)

2) pulling the tang out correctly and without damaging anything (the comment about the spring flying away confused the hell out of me)

If worried you could put a tiny bit of loctite on the thread. Don't get one that really locks it though, just a mild version to stop the cap unscrewing.

Re the spring bar, sorry, it was a bit of a joke, but as you have to compress the bar against the spring pressure to slip it off one end of the buckle, it is possible to accidentally let it slip off the tool and catapult into the air. Happened to me once and it took ages to find the bar again!

[LAFLARE]

Ash and Islatate (or anyone else):

Would a burgeon 1.4 be able to accomplish the task in question on my 44? APbands (referred by 1stamg) has the easy screwdriver and also has a burgeon, but I only see 1.4mm being offered. Should I look elsewhere or will 1.40mm fit?