How to protect the serial and reference numbers

[statuskuo]

Has anybody taken extra steps to protect a serial number on a vintage watch? Several of my watches have ill-fitting bracelets that have damaged the serial numbers between the lugs. While I've corrected the bracelets, I'm slightly paranoid that somehow the inevitable rub with vintage bracelets will continue to do damage to the engraved text.

I've recently used some simple scotch tape but I'm wondering if any of you have come up with more effective/creative ways of accomplishing this? I've heard clear nail polish, hot glue gun, and even elmer's glue.

I prefer the look of vintage metal bracelets and would rather not switch to leather or nato.

Thanks!

[77T]

Perhaps attack the protection challenge from the other side? That is, the bracelet side - not putting anything on the case itself.

The end links on vintage models are hollow so the bracelet is rubbing the watch case due to wrong spring bars. Usually ones that are too fat for the reference.

First, make sure you have the correct spring bars. What I have done in past is to bend them to add a bit more space.

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[037]

Polyester tape for powder coating might work. It comes in different thicknesses but I'd start with the green at 1/4" wide. If you think you'll be able to see it then go with the clear.

https://www.mcmaster.com/masking/mas...der-coating-8/

[Tools]

There are plenty of protective films available today that are tough and long lasting.

I don't think that I would put Scotch tape in that category.

[springer]

I use black electrical tape - the vinyl type.

[Dan S]

Polyester film, as mentioned above, would be a good choice. Polyimide (Kapton) tape would really be ideal if you can get your hands on some and you can live with the yellow tint.

[Racer X]

Originally Posted by Tools

There are plenty of protective films available today that are tough and long lasting.

I don't think that I would put Scotch tape in that category.

Speaking of Scotch tape, I used to put that on the clasp of a NOS 1680/8 I had to prevent scratches. Was nearly invisible and gave me some peace of mind as it worked well. I would replace it whenever it would start to peel around the edges.

[Rolexoman]

I use Kapton tape for honing razors and it tough and super thin

https://www.kaptontape.com/1_Mil_Kapton_Tapes.php

[swish77]

I always wondered about putting tape over the serial and reference numbers to protect them, but would there be a concern that the adhesive from the tape, over time, could become corrosive on the metal or that moisture/water might get trapped behind the tape? Not saying it definitely would, but the worrywart in me would think there might be bad chemistry at play eventually.

Another solution is just new and/or correctly adjusted end links, albeit a more expensive option.

[zapokee]

I'd never even considered this. Good question.

[larryccf]

if you really want a durable, invisible coating, cerakote ceramic coatings offers a clearcote that is clear as glass, and durable as anything i've seen.

It actually is microscopic ceramic beads in a wet binding solution that is ultra thin, flows nice, and you apply with a small air brush.

I've sprayed glass, polymer, you name it, and the adhesion is fantastic assuming you do a decent degrease job first. But as to durability, i actually sprayed a metal bar about the size of a Norton sharpening stone (3" X 6" X 1") and sprayed it with 3 coats, and use it for a really fine sharpening stone (north of 1500 grit) - and metal scrapes off on it, no ceramic comes off.

Be sure to go with their single part ceramic coating - the two part is obnoxious and you really need good face mask/filter protection. The single part, no dangerous fumes, just need a normal dust mask for protection.

THe only real difference between the single part and two part coatings, the single part is good up thru, iirc, 1100F while the 2 part coatings will go north of 1800F. The four ounce sample bottle serves me to spray 14 pistols. Just be sure to filter it thru a cone filter like they use in car body/paint shops - and what you don't use you can pour back into the bottle.

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by larryccf

if you really want a durable, invisible coating, cerakote ceramic coatings offers a clearcote that is clear as glass, and durable as anything i've seen.

It actually is microscopic ceramic beads in a wet binding solution that is ultra thin, flows nice, and you apply with a small air brush.

I've sprayed glass, polymer, you name it, and the adhesion is fantastic assuming you do a decent degrease job first. But as to durability, i actually sprayed a metal bar about the size of a Norton sharpening stone (3" X 6" X 1") and sprayed it with 3 coats, and use it for a really fine sharpening stone (north of 1500 grit) - and metal scrapes off on it, no ceramic comes off.

Be sure to go with their single part ceramic coating - the two part is obnoxious and you really need good face mask/filter protection. The single part, no dangerous fumes, just need a normal dust mask for protection.

THe only real difference between the single part and two part coatings, the single part is good up thru, iirc, 1100F while the 2 part coatings will go north of 1800F. The four ounce sample bottle serves me to spray 14 pistols. Just be sure to filter it thru a cone filter like they use in car body/paint shops - and what you don't use you can pour back into the bottle.

Now that's some specialist knowledge.

[swish77]

Originally Posted by larryccf

if you really want a durable, invisible coating, cerakote ceramic coatings offers a clearcote that is clear as glass, and durable as anything i've seen.

It actually is microscopic ceramic beads in a wet binding solution that is ultra thin, flows nice, and you apply with a small air brush.

I've sprayed glass, polymer, you name it, and the adhesion is fantastic assuming you do a decent degrease job first. But as to durability, i actually sprayed a metal bar about the size of a Norton sharpening stone (3" X 6" X 1") and sprayed it with 3 coats, and use it for a really fine sharpening stone (north of 1500 grit) - and metal scrapes off on it, no ceramic comes off.

Be sure to go with their single part ceramic coating - the two part is obnoxious and you really need good face mask/filter protection. The single part, no dangerous fumes, just need a normal dust mask for protection.

THe only real difference between the single part and two part coatings, the single part is good up thru, iirc, 1100F while the 2 part coatings will go north of 1800F. The four ounce sample bottle serves me to spray 14 pistols. Just be sure to filter it thru a cone filter like they use in car body/paint shops - and what you don't use you can pour back into the bottle.

Great info, but there'd be no way I'd spray my vintage Rolex with this stuff. Doesn't sound as if you could ever remove it.

Numbers only rub off between the lugs with an ill-fitting bracelet and end links. Fix that issue, and you don't need to worry about additional protection of the serial/reference numbers.

[037]

Originally Posted by swish77

Great info, but there'd be no way I'd spray my vintage Rolex with this stuff. Doesn't sound as if you could ever remove it.

Numbers only rub off between the lugs with an ill-fitting bracelet and end links. Fix that issue, and you don't need to worry about additional protection of the serial/reference numbers.

Agreed. You wouldn't be able to remove it without serious effort. Cerakote is great for certain things that make noise but not a vintage watch with inherent value based on its condition.

Cerakote is a good suggestion but not one I'd personally use on a vintage watch.

And, yes, 100% on fixing the problematic endlink. Wear is caused by movement and friction. Eliminating that is really the root issue here.

[larryccf]

Originally Posted by swish77

Great info, but there'd be no way I'd spray my vintage Rolex with this stuff. Doesn't sound as if you could ever remove it.

Numbers only rub off between the lugs with an ill-fitting bracelet and end links. Fix that issue, and you don't need to worry about additional protection of the serial/reference numbers.

while i see your point, i was addressing the OP's request. Plus a light spray (masking off the rest of the watch), and blending it out at the edges, you'd never know it was there - it's impervious to UV light so no yellowing, etc

BUt for folks concerned, you're right, it would be extremely difficult to remove once it's cured

[Racer X]

Unrelated but similar sounding issue: WHY do people protect their serial numbers from public disclosure? Is the concern that someone will make a fake using that serial number? If so, so what?? It's not like a fake would get by someone who knows their stuff.

Similar issue is people hiding their license plate number online. I get the concern there, but that plate is sorta public when you drive the car. In fact, having the plate number being clear and easy to read is sort of the point.

[NOPDK]

I've put small strips of cut to size ear plug foam inside the end links of some of my early pieces. roll it tight and sick into the end link channel. Install onto watch. when the foam expands it keep the end links from rattling around rubbing on the case. Quieter wearing experience with early bracelets. easy, inexpensive, no risk of damaging anything and reversible.

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by Racer X

WHY do people protect their serial numbers from public disclosure?

A scammer knowing the full serial number could report it to Rolex as stolen, and request to "get it back" when the real owner sends it in for service. It's like revealing your PIN or password.

[Racer X]

Originally Posted by zapokee

A scammer knowing the full serial number could report it to Rolex as stolen, and request to "get it back" when the real owner sends it in for service. It's like revealing your PIN or password.

Okay, but they would need some kind of evidence to back up their claim. Not like they can go to the police, tell them the s/n, and then the police automatically make you give the watch to them. They would need to show evidence of purchase/ownership that could be investigated and confirmed. Also, I'm sure the police would ask you if there is any way the one alleging ownership could have learned about the s/n. Furthermore, they would ask you for proof of purchase/ownership and, presumably, you'd be able to show them.

My feeling is this is just something that people have done in the past, so everyone else who comes along follows the practice as "this is what everyone does." I too don't show my s/n's, but I don't know why. I guess it's mainly fear that I'm missing something (that might not actually be there).

[037]

Originally Posted by Racer X

My feeling is this is just something that people have done in the past, so everyone else who comes along follows the practice as "this is what everyone does." I too don't show my s/n's, but I don't know why. I guess it's mainly fear that I'm missing something (that might not actually be there).

Those who make counterfeit cases could serialize them the same as a known good number. This could affect vintage just as much as modern.

It's best to obfuscate the full number and err on the side of caution.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by Racer X

My feeling is this is just something that people have done in the past, so everyone else who comes along follows the practice as "this is what everyone does." I too don't show my s/n's, but I don't know why. I guess it's mainly fear that I'm missing something (that might not actually be there).

I agree with you. People always bring up the same concerns in connection with obscuring serial numbers (reported as stolen, counterfeiter making fake cases), but nobody ever points to a particular situation where something like this actually occurred. If you are extremely risk-averse, then obscure some numbers. But some people take it so far that they won't even show the whole serial number by email or PM to a potential buyer, which is too extreme in my view.

[springer]

There are plenty of scammers out there that steal photos , claim the watch as their own, and then try and sell it. It's happened to one of my watches more than once. If the scammer doesn't know the complete serial number, or have photos of the complete number, it makes it pretty hard for a scammer to sell a watch with stolen photos.

As a footnote, buy from someone reputable, don't be a frugal penny-pincher and you'll be just fine.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by springer

There are plenty of scammers out there that steal photos , claim the watch as their own, and then try and sell it. It's happened to one of my watches more than once. If the scammer doesn't know the complete serial number, or have photos of the complete number, it makes it pretty hard for a scammer to sell a watch with stolen photos.

As a footnote, buy from someone reputable, don't be a frugal penny-pincher and you'll be just fine.

That's happened to me several times as well, and often they will just grab IG photos that don't even have partial serial numbers. Of course, it doesn't affect me directly, and all photos on the internet are fair game. The scammers show up on Chronotrader more often than not.

And I'll add this ... when you buy from someone reputable, make sure it's really the person you think it is, and that the person actually has the watch.