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Old 28 May 2016, 11:26 PM   #1
Daycruiser
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A case for the longevity of the 40mm+ Rolexes

It is my impression that most Rolex aficionados seem to favour the 36-40mm range and find the larger watches obnoxious and view it as a passing trend.

I am here to make a case that the 41-44MM watches are here to stay, here are a couple reasons:

1. The increasingly blurry definition of masculinity. Luxury watches are men's toys, as the glass ceiling have now been broken, and women are more prone to buying luxury watches within the 36-40mm range, men would want something bigger to contrast this with the ladies. In an era where manhood is being redefined constantly, the old 36-40mm watches may seem less masculine to a lot of younger buyers.

2. I started my collection with a 40mm Daytona. And it looks small compared to the other 44MM that I have. Once you have been accustomed to a bigger watch, a smaller watch just seems weird. Like when Apple came out with the IPhone 6, my iPhone 5 looks puny to me and a part of me just wants that bigger screen. I think the same applies to watches.

3. Sports endorsement and marketing are the backbone of the Rolex brand. As athletes get bigger and faster (ahem for a variety of reasons that we shall not mention), their demand for bigger watches and show piece would only increase. Rolex must compete with AP and Hublot and with their endorsement of competitive athletes, the general public will associate a bigger watch with success, which lets be honest is why a lot of people start getting into luxury watches in the first place. It's all about presitge and vicarious association. The millennial generation are simply accustomed to bigger watches, and when they become the main force in the market, watchmakers would have to cater to their preference.

I think this trend will continue for the foreseeable future. I can't say for sure what will happen in ten years time, but I do firmly believe that pieces like DSSD D-blue will become a collectors item in the future.

Would love to hear your thoughts.
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Old 28 May 2016, 11:29 PM   #2
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The recent downsizing of the datejust and day-date 2 watches would be a point i would raise for the contrary.
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Old 28 May 2016, 11:31 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by japenney View Post
The recent downsizing of the datejust and day-date 2 watches would be a point i would raise for the contrary.
I also think those watches are marketed towards the 35+ crowd, and thus are a little more conservative.
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Old 28 May 2016, 11:38 PM   #4
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Panerai has got away with 47mm so i do not see why a well balanced Rolex like the DSSD would not last the test of time.
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Old 28 May 2016, 11:39 PM   #5
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Aesthetically, I like a smaller watch. Practically, my eyes not being what they used to be, I like a larger watch.
Thus, with an aging population, the larger watches are here to stay.
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Old 28 May 2016, 11:44 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Castor View Post
Aesthetically, I like a smaller watch. Practically, my eyes not being what they used to be, I like a larger watch.
Thus, with an aging population, the larger watches are here to stay.
My eyes are getting old too. Thinking of this fella lately although i have a hard time locating a strap for it
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Old 29 May 2016, 12:35 AM   #7
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My eyes are getting old too. Thinking of this fella lately although i have a hard time locating a strap for it

Where do I get one?!
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Old 29 May 2016, 12:41 AM   #8
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We all have our preferences. I wear my watch 24/7, so I prefer a more compact comfortable size. I've worn some 44mm watches where I just can't wait to take them off at the end of the day, or they stand out too much when wearing formal wear. At the end of the day, I expect my watch to fit comfortably all day - and I find those watches to be in the 36-40 mm range.

I do have to agree with you though in some sense. The larger sizes watches are not a trend - it seems like they are really here to stay. Not a problem though, it's a good thing. It means there are more options, which is something we should be celebrating.
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Old 29 May 2016, 12:47 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Colin10101 View Post
We all have our preferences. I wear my watch 24/7, so I prefer a more compact comfortable size. I've worn some 44mm watches where I just can't wait to take them off at the end of the day, or they stand out too much when wearing formal wear. At the end of the day, I expect my watch to fit comfortably all day - and I find those watches to be in the 36-40 mm range.

I do have to agree with you though in some sense. The larger sizes watches are not a trend - it seems like they are really here to stay. Not a problem though, it's a good thing. It means there are more options, which is something we should be celebrating.
With formal wear I generally stick to my 116519 black on black Daytona, so I agree that a 44mm is a little odd with formal wear. I do find the 44MM comfortable tho, I fell asleep with my YM 2 last night and barely noticed it. I guess it's all about what one is used to.
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:04 AM   #10
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I think 40-44mm is here to stay but not necessarily for those reasons. The glass ceiling? Women are still underpaid for various reasons, most of which are out of thier control.
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daycruiser View Post
I also think those watches are marketed towards the 35+ crowd, and thus are a little more conservative.
That's Rolex main market, over 35's.

There are VERY few individuals buying Rolex under 35.
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:16 AM   #12
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I also think the 40-44mm watches are here to stay. I think the trend of a larger watch on everyone may die down a bit and move toward a full watch for your wrist approach. I have relatively puny 6.5in wrist and a 40mm fills my wrist well. I also have a 44mm Breitling which isn't uncomfortable but for many occasions is "too big"... I think as time progresses it's going to be about how the watch fills your wrist. With people of all different shapes and sizes "filling your wrists" will require watches of all different sizes.


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Old 29 May 2016, 01:22 AM   #13
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Well...Rolex has definitely dipped their toes into the >40mm pool. I think it's more of a clever ploy to cover all the bases of a more diverse population these days.

I do find it interesting Rolex scaled the DD2 back to 40mm...not sure what to make of that. And whether bigger watches like the DSSD and the YM2 hang around or not, is anybody's guess.

I'm good either way.
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:28 AM   #14
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Me, it's about my size as a guy. I'm 5'8 175 lbs, and anything over 40mm that's not a flatter piece (SMP, ExII) looks terrible on me. Women can get away with larger pieces IMO, so she wears my vintage 16014 DJ, as it comes in at 36mm. It looks great on both of us.
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:34 AM   #15
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42 mm SMP is the largest I want.
IMO oversized watches just look cartoonish.
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:35 AM   #16
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I've worn watches up to 44mm in diameter and felt that they looked fine. I think certain brands pull this off nicely. Panerai, by heritage, are meant to be oversized and make sense in 44mm+. I think once it gets up to 47mm it starts to get a little ridiculous in size, but again the watches are meant to be worn that way.

I think the problem arises when many brands are increasing their sizes to ridiculous proportions and it reflects badly on the more traditional brands that always did it. I see a lot of guy walking around with highly polished, 50mm, quartz pieces and they just look ridiculous. As a result it tends to reflect poorly on references that were always a little on the larger side. Most of us know the difference between a PAM372 and a cheap replica piece but most of the general population does not.

I don't think any trend should stop people from wearing what they love. I still have a soft spot in my heart for Panerai and even Breitling despite the fact I think they have made some questionable choices in the direction of their lines. I come back to Rolex because, for me, 40-42mm, will always be my sweet spot in size. It's large enough to look appropriate on my wrist but not too large that any reference will look out of place.
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:38 AM   #17
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I think Rolex have introduced quite a few 42mm plus models now so I think they, like all smart non-niche companies, are trying to cater for as many customers as they can, witness the pretty fast rollout of D500s now. Even AP with their generally 40mm plus range have a 37mm modern day RO.
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:39 AM   #18
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I personally believe that 40mm is a classic size, and 36mm i.e. DJ/DD is even more classic. I just saw JT's DD in his new music video and 36 never looked so right. If you're a giant with big proportions maybe. But for a healthy, 25BMI guy I think 40 is the ticket. Buy the DSSD if you want a bigger watch OP. Leave our 36 and 40 alone.


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Old 29 May 2016, 01:43 AM   #19
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I dont think 44mm is really considered too large i think large watch trendy stuff iss 44mm+ those huge big ben clocks on people's wrists. Id say 44 is possibly the threshold to obnoxious though.
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:44 AM   #20
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Because the DD2 and DJ2 were such big hits, they reduced their size...
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:46 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by japenney View Post
The recent downsizing of the datejust and day-date 2 watches would be a point i would raise for the contrary.
Pardon my ignorance, but when did they downsize the DJ?
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Old 29 May 2016, 01:47 AM   #22
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Pardon my ignorance, but when did they downsize the DJ?
they downsized the datejust 2 this year with the release of the datejust 41 at baselworld.

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Old 29 May 2016, 02:03 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Daycruiser View Post
It is my impression that most Rolex aficionados seem to favour the 36-40mm range and find the larger watches obnoxious and view it as a passing trend.

I am here to make a case that the 41-44MM watches are here to stay, here are a couple reasons:

1. The increasingly blurry definition of masculinity. Luxury watches are men's toys, as the glass ceiling have now been broken, and women are more prone to buying luxury watches within the 36-40mm range, men would want something bigger to contrast this with the ladies. In an era where manhood is being redefined constantly, the old 36-40mm watches may seem less masculine to a lot of younger buyers.

2. I started my collection with a 40mm Daytona. And it looks small compared to the other 44MM that I have. Once you have been accustomed to a bigger watch, a smaller watch just seems weird. Like when Apple came out with the IPhone 6, my iPhone 5 looks puny to me and a part of me just wants that bigger screen. I think the same applies to watches.

3. Sports endorsement and marketing are the backbone of the Rolex brand. As athletes get bigger and faster (ahem for a variety of reasons that we shall not mention), their demand for bigger watches and show piece would only increase. Rolex must compete with AP and Hublot and with their endorsement of competitive athletes, the general public will associate a bigger watch with success, which lets be honest is why a lot of people start getting into luxury watches in the first place. It's all about presitge and vicarious association. The millennial generation are simply accustomed to bigger watches, and when they become the main force in the market, watchmakers would have to cater to their preference.

I think this trend will continue for the foreseeable future. I can't say for sure what will happen in ten years time, but I do firmly believe that pieces like DSSD D-blue will become a collectors item in the future.

Would love to hear your thoughts.
The biggest problem with large watches (41mm - 44mm) is that most of them are low priced junk with a very down market image.

No sensible man wants that sort of image.

Regards

Mick
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Old 29 May 2016, 02:07 AM   #24
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OP has a large wrist so his post makes sense to those with large wrists. We with smaller wrists prefer 40 and lower.
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Old 29 May 2016, 09:04 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by japenney View Post
they downsized the datejust 2 this year with the release of the datejust 41 at baselworld.

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That's not true, the old DJ 2 was (is) 41MM.
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Old 29 May 2016, 09:08 AM   #26
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I like my 42 EX II, it just feels like the right size and to be honest, I find that extra 2MM makes a difference with my old eyes reading the time at a glance. I also understand the desire for 36 to 40 and believe while that will remain the bulk of Rolex models, there will always be some models available at 41, 42 and even 44. I believe that sales of these, while not comparing to the 40MM, will be enough to keep them in the lineup.
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Old 29 May 2016, 09:10 AM   #27
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40 is my favorite
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Old 29 May 2016, 09:12 AM   #28
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That's not true, the old DJ 2 was (is) 41MM.
It was downsized in other ways..

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Old 29 May 2016, 09:18 AM   #29
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I'd make the case for 39-42mm being the sweet spot. I have large wrists (7 3/4) and over 42 is just too big.
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Old 29 May 2016, 09:28 AM   #30
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I agree that 39-41mm fits most men and the Daytona looks great on my wife's wrist. To the OP, I think Rolex is trending towards bigger watches. The DSSD was the first big model but they also re-released the EXPII in a 42mm case size. The Oyster Perpetual and Explorer 1 are now in 39 up from 36, and the Air King came back this year in 40mm. While no one has mentioned it yet, the Skydweller is kind of the flagship for Rolex now in price and complications. It is bigger than the DSSD from what I have see in pictures. I like that Rolex still keeps the 36 and 40mm sizes. I really doubt that Rolex will do anything bigger than 44mm, at least for a long time. But give Rolex some credit in the big watch department, they did have the Subs and GMTs out in 40mm long before any other big watch house had big (at the time) watches. Remember when the Royal Oak in 39mm was called the Jumbo in 1972? Rolex tool watches were bigger than those before AP did it.
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