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Old 10 October 2019, 12:57 PM   #1
jag32
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Thoughts on Roger Dubuis? Pics...

Buddy has a Roger Dubuis East Dover and I tried it ion today. Love at first sight. And only 7-8k second hand. What do you guys think?

What is the brand reputation of Roger Dubuis? Are they a respectable brand or are they another horror show like Franck Muller? Don’t care about resale, just overall brand reputation and prestige as a haute horology manufacturer.





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Old 10 October 2019, 01:21 PM   #2
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For 7k it is a nice pick up. I would say buy it if you can!
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Old 10 October 2019, 01:26 PM   #3
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For 7k it is a nice pick up. I would say buy it if you can!
What is the opinion of Roger Dubuis as a brand. Are they respectable or are they another Franck Muller horror show?
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Old 10 October 2019, 01:30 PM   #4
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I'm sorry but that is a terrible looking watch IMO.

I understand that is not meant to be a dive watch per se, but in diving, the minute hand is the important one that needs to be large and visible - not the hour hand. Amateurs.
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Old 10 October 2019, 01:34 PM   #5
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I'm sorry but that is a terrible looking watch IMO.

I understand that is not meant to be a dive watch per se, but in diving, the minute hand is the important one that needs to be large and visible - not the hour hand. Amateurs.
To each his own. I think the watch is bold, has real wrist presence, and is avant garde.
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Old 10 October 2019, 02:15 PM   #6
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What is the opinion of Roger Dubuis as a brand. Are they respectable or are they another Franck Muller horror show?
From what I know the Roger Dubuis brand has awesome movements. I like the Excalibur beautiful piece.
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Old 10 October 2019, 07:19 PM   #7
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Roger Dubuis is a fine brand, and Franck Muller is nothing like as bad, as you’re trying to portray.
The Easy Diver never really grabbed me, but the current Excaliburs (42/43mm) and Homage do, as well as the discontinued La Monégasque and Sympathie.
If the ED case shape is what appeals, then my recommendation would be to consider the LM.
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Old 10 October 2019, 09:39 PM   #8
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I own this RD since 2007. They are beautiful watches and great design.


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Old 10 October 2019, 10:05 PM   #9
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I looked at them once but do not understand them.


Trying way too hard to be over the top, not sure what justifies the price point. Even at 7K, I could think of many watches I would rather own than whatever that is.
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Old 10 October 2019, 10:48 PM   #10
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Justification? Luxury watches? Have you had a funny turn?
All the justification a brand needs is what they think it’s worth – it’s not even what the think the market will bear.

That, and the other models I mentioned are legacy designs, production long since ceased after the man himself sold the company to Richemont, and since passing away.
These were his designs, the brand now is a two-range affair – Excaliburs and Velvets emulating, to a degree, what AP has become.

Worth a quick read – https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/10/the...1938-2017.html
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Old 11 October 2019, 03:02 AM   #11
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As far as 'prestige' goes, personally, I see them in line with Frank Muller and a step down from Hublot, and a step up from Romain Jerome.

Read that for what it's worth.
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Old 11 October 2019, 05:45 AM   #12
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As far as 'prestige' goes, personally, I see them in line with Frank Muller and a step down from Hublot, and a step up from Romain Jerome.

Read that for what it's worth.


Franck muller is the worst company ever. Using Chinese movement. And Hublot and Romain Jerome. Roger Dubuis Quality of movement one of the best. In my books.


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Old 11 October 2019, 06:33 AM   #13
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Franck muller is the worst company ever. Using Chinese movement. And Hublot and Romain Jerome. Roger Dubuis Quality of movement one of the best. In my books.


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Oh. I didn't know that. Which Seagull caliber is this based on exactly?

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Old 11 October 2019, 06:39 AM   #14
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Read this history on Dubuis. 14 years as a Patek watchmaker crafting grand complications. Absolutely unbelievable pedigree and gives me strong confidence in buying a Dubuis.

Mr Dubuis began his watchmaking career during the golden age of Swiss watchmaking, starting at Longines in the late 1950s. Most of the nine years Mr Dubuis spent at the Saint-Imier watchmaker renowned for its chronographs were in its after-sales department where he worked on repairs. He then moved to Geneva to work for Patek Philippe as a constructor and watchmaker in the high complications workshop. This was a particularly formative time according to an interview he gave to your correspondent in 2012, with the quality and finesse of Patek Philippe watches shaping his philosophy of watchmaking.

After 14 years at the pedigreed Geneva watchmaker, he left in 1980 to set up a small workshop where he repaired watches and clocks for collectors, auction houses and watch brands. According to Mr Dubuis, in the late 1980s he starting working on his first complication, a perpetual calendar module with retrograde displays. And then in the early 1990s Mr Dubuis, the modest, subtle watchmaker, met Carlos Dias, who later became the swaggering impresario of the Roger Dubuis brand. Together they set up Société Genevoise des Montres (SOGEM) in 1995, a striking second act for Mr Dubuis, who was already 57 years old.
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Old 11 October 2019, 06:40 AM   #15
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Oh. I didn't know that. Which Seagull caliber is this based on exactly?

Obviously none, however in the 2008-2010 timeframe there was a scandal at FM where they were caught using Russian made movements in their Casablanca line. This was catastrophic to the FM reputation and they have never been able to recover.
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Old 11 October 2019, 07:08 AM   #16
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Read this history on Dubuis. 14 years as a Patek watchmaker crafting grand complications. Absolutely unbelievable pedigree and gives me strong confidence in buying a Dubuis.

Mr Dubuis began his watchmaking career during the golden age of Swiss watchmaking, starting at Longines in the late 1950s. Most of the nine years Mr Dubuis spent at the Saint-Imier watchmaker renowned for its chronographs were in its after-sales department where he worked on repairs. He then moved to Geneva to work for Patek Philippe as a constructor and watchmaker in the high complications workshop. This was a particularly formative time according to an interview he gave to your correspondent in 2012, with the quality and finesse of Patek Philippe watches shaping his philosophy of watchmaking.

After 14 years at the pedigreed Geneva watchmaker, he left in 1980 to set up a small workshop where he repaired watches and clocks for collectors, auction houses and watch brands. According to Mr Dubuis, in the late 1980s he starting working on his first complication, a perpetual calendar module with retrograde displays. And then in the early 1990s Mr Dubuis, the modest, subtle watchmaker, met Carlos Dias, who later became the swaggering impresario of the Roger Dubuis brand. Together they set up Société Genevoise des Montres (SOGEM) in 1995, a striking second act for Mr Dubuis, who was already 57 years old.

There is no question that Dubuis was a great watchmaker, but, sadly, he is as much involved with the brand today as A L Breguet is involved with his. What he did isn't particularly relevant, in a practical sense, to the brand today.


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Obviously none, however in the 2008-2010 timeframe there was a scandal at FM where they were caught using Russian made movements in their Casablanca line. This was catastrophic to the FM reputation and they have never been able to recover.

Ah. So in your eyes the history of the brand, or what they did or didn't do in the past, is really what makes one brand better or worse then another, not what they are actually producing today? It's kind of a one strike and you're out system then? That's tough love if I've ever seen it
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Old 11 October 2019, 07:12 AM   #17
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There is no question that Dubuis was a great watchmaker, but, sadly, he is as much involved with the brand today as A L Breguet is involved with his. What he did isn't particularly relevant, in a practical sense, to the brand today.





Ah. So in your eyes the history of the brand, or what they did or didn't do in the past, is really what makes one brand better or worse then another, not what they are actually producing today? It's kind of a one strike and you're out system then? That's tough love if I've ever seen it
If I buy a Roger Dubuis it would be an Easy Diver made during Dubuis’ time at the company.

As for FM, yes- intentionally misleading consumers and using Russian made movements being passed off as Swiss movements is a flat abdication of anything the brand does and will forever be tarnished. There are companies who have released flops. That’s fine. This wasn’t a flop, it was downright fraud and unforgivable.
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Old 11 October 2019, 07:42 AM   #18
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Here's the thing, Dubuis probably had little to do with the brand itself at the - he was well into his gold years, especially at the end - so him being alive at the time may or may not have any impact on the watch. Ultimately you have to like the watch based on how it makes you feel, no one else. And when it comes to opinions, everyone has one.

Best of luck in your hunt and I hope you find the watch that makes you smile.
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Old 11 October 2019, 07:48 AM   #19
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Dubuis was in his early 59s when he started the company and deigned the movements and collection like the Easy Diver. Certainly not his golden years. He also left the company gracefully, unlike Franck Muller who was thrown out of his own company after personally directing the Russian movement scandal.
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Old 11 October 2019, 08:17 AM   #20
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To the best of my knowledge, Franck Muller has never been dismissed from his own company.
I’m certain I’ve previously linked this article in another thread, not that long ago… https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/articl...d-the-it-watch
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Old 11 October 2019, 10:08 AM   #21
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Old 11 October 2019, 06:09 PM   #22
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I'm sorry but that is a terrible looking watch IMO.
This.
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Old 14 October 2019, 03:26 PM   #23
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I like their "Hommage" line, the 42mm 3 hander to be exact. Roger Dubuis still pumps out Geneva seal movements at a great price point.

The H37 is classic and the new Huracan is awesome.

Roger Dubuis is on my list
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Old 14 October 2019, 09:27 PM   #24
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Everything they produce is Genevé Seal certified, and they’re the only brand (in the Canton) who has it for carbon fibre, which is no easy task.
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