Fixing the swirls Cape Cod left

[Bigblu10]

Originally Posted by 5nit

So tired of people bitching at others for wanting to keep a clean watch. Do you sing a Ferrari and just leave it? Not for enthusiasts. My Rolex is my Ferrari and others feel the same. You can get a swirl free mirror polish with cape cod... even under a loupe it will look brand new. It takes time and a steady hand. The same hand I’ve used for other things like repairing car paint, etc.

Here is my cape cod thread and if you need help PM me.

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=683573

Keeping a clean watch is perfectly fine. Dawn dish soap, warm water and a soft brush or wash cloth. Save the damn polishing for the CW21 watchmaker who has the "PROPER" equipment to restore a factory mirror finish. Instead of chasing every fine scratch or swirl with a chemically treated cloth.....that will not give you a factory finish. Learn to deal with scratches and swirlies or keep it in it's box.

[5nit]

Originally Posted by Bigblu10

Keeping a clean watch is perfectly fine. Dawn dish soap, warm water and a soft brush or wash cloth. Save the damn polishing for the CW21 watchmaker who has the "PROPER" equipment to restore a factory mirror finish. Instead of chasing every fine scratch or swirl with a chemically treated cloth.....that will not give you a factory finish. Learn to deal with scratches and swirlies or keep in in it's box.

Chasing every scratch is one thing, doing a little work here and there to keep it looking great, just fine. Do you leave your scratched car for the next time it goes into service? You might, many would have it corrected and touched up. Nothing wrong with that at all.

I personally refinished a bad scratch I had on my previous DJ that drove me nuts. I removed it and brought it back to new. So close in fact my AD could not tell one bit under the lights and all the brand new watches.

Again, to each their own.

[5nit]

Here you guys go. A couple pics of my refinish work. Completely restored to brand new.






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[sinkholeninja]

Thanks for information sharing, but honestly just leave those scratches be, otherwise obsessing about it will only diminish your overall experience of owning the watch in the long run.

[Buzzlite]

So put grape seed oil on the lugs or pcl first ? Then cape cod ?

Originally Posted by 5nit

I agree with this. Use a lot of lube. Even grape seed oil. Need to keep the abrasion down. And you can get a mirror finish. I’ve got pics of mine in this thread.

[gunhose]

Nothing wrong with this tread, but Padi is spot on !! Snit, show your shiny over poised watch in one month. If you wear everyday. Polishing yourself every time there a mark like a dog chasing its tail lol

[Gary Busey]

I know. I have a few watches and most aren’t ever touched. This was a demonic impulse I could not control. So yeah. I understand all your advice but as I mentioned, it kinda happened.

[5nit]

Originally Posted by gunhose

Nothing wrong with this tread, but Padi is spot on !! Snit, show your shiny over poised watch in one month. If you wear everyday. Polishing yourself every time there a mark like a dog chasing its tail lol

Good post. I’ve only ever used cape cod once on a Rolex of mine. To get those scratches out. The rest I don’t care but those I did. I’ve also cleaned up some other watches and some friends as well with great results and happy people.

Not exactly using machines here. Don’t be such a negative hater.

[5nit]

Originally Posted by Buzzlite

So put grape seed oil on the lugs or pcl first ? Then cape cod ?

No no, just use a little bit when your cloth seems to dry out. For better results constantly use new pieces of cap cod once black. When you are finishing up and wanting to get the swirls out use a new piece of cape cod and to softly.

[tie219]

I think once you get enough scratches and they start to look evenly spread, it actually can make a watch look better

[Mystro]

Making blanket Cape Cod statements is very short sighted.
I became a master with the Cape Cod cloth over 30 years. I wear my watches but they always look pristine to a certain level. I address scratches on a semi regular basis. You can’t take off too much metal and you won’t take any of the sharp lines off your watch with a Cape Cod cloth. At this point, I know what is normal hairlines and what are unacceptable scratches. Taking off scratches are like getting a haircut to me. It’s just something you must do to keep up a reasonable appearance.

On the flip side I also get pristine watch money when I trade them on. Scratches are not beautiful in my eyes and are tolerated at best. There is certainly a philosophical reason to address scratches or just do nothing and let them accumulate. I don’t worry about them or freak out when they happen because I know I can address them which takes any new watch stress away. Knowledge is power and ignorance is fear. Perhaps that is why new watch owners are so paranoid about scratches because they don’t know how to address them and they don’t want to just “live with them”.


This is a 17 year old Bluesy that has been on countless dives and was my every day (only) watch for over eight years. This watch never even had a routine service for its first 15 years of life. I addressed every scratch as it happened on this watch over the years with a Cape Cod system. The lines on this watch from the bracelet, clasp and case are as sharp as it was from the day it was new. At its routine 15 year service, Rikki had to polish very little and mentioned how well I kept the watch up as it makes his job easier. When a skilled and respected watch maker praises your watch maintenance routine, I am going to say it is good empirical data that this method should be kept up.
Learning how to use a Cape Cod cloth isn’t that complicated but if you are freaked out with the idea, you can always practice on your silverware and move up to a watch. Knowing you don’t have to live with a door jam smack might let some relax and enjoy their watch even more.



Anyone want to show me I did any damage with a cape cod cloth using it for almost a decade?

[STEELINOX]

Originally Posted by Mystro

Making blanket Cape Cod statements is very short sighted.
I became a master with the Cape Cod cloth over 30 years. I wear my watches but they always look pristine to a certain level. I address scratches on a semi regular basis. You can’t take off too much metal and you won’t take any of the sharp lines off your watch with a Cape Cod cloth. At this point, I know what is normal hairlines and what are unacceptable scratches. Taking off scratches are like getting a haircut to me. It’s just something you must do to keep up a reasonable appearance.

On the flip side I also get pristine watch money when I trade them on. Scratches are not beautiful in my eyes and are tolerated at best. There is certainly a philosophical reason to address scratches or just do nothing and let them accumulate. I don’t worry about them or freak out when they happen because I know I can address them which takes any new watch stress away. Knowledge is power and ignorance is fear. Perhaps that is why new watch owners are so paranoid about scratches because they don’t know how to address them and they don’t want to just “live with them”.


This is a 17 year old Bluesy that has been on countless dives and was my every day (only) watch for over eight years. This watch never even had a routine service for its first 15 years of life. I addressed every scratch as it happened on this watch over the years with a Cape Cod system. The lines on this watch from the bracelet, clasp and case are as sharp as it was from the day it was new. At its routine 15 year service, Rikki had to polish very little and mentioned how well I kept the watch up as it makes his job easier. When a skilled and respected watch maker praises your watch maintenance routine, I am going to say it is good empirical data that this method should be kept up.
Learning how to use a Cape Cod cloth isn’t that complicated but if you are freaked out with the idea, you can always practice on your silverware and move up to a watch. Knowing you don’t have to live with a door jam smack might let some relax and enjoy their watch even more.


Anyone want to show me I did any damage with a cape cod cloth using it for almost a decade?

NICE BLUESY, We really are only "custodians" of these fine timepieces, good job...

[5nit]

Originally Posted by Mystro

Making blanket Cape Cod statements is very short sighted.
I became a master with the Cape Cod cloth over 30 years. I wear my watches but they always look pristine to a certain level. I address scratches on a semi regular basis. You can’t take off too much metal and you won’t take any of the sharp lines off your watch with a Cape Cod cloth. At this point, I know what is normal hairlines and what are unacceptable scratches. Taking off scratches are like getting a haircut to me. It’s just something you must do to keep up a reasonable appearance.

On the flip side I also get pristine watch money when I trade them on. Scratches are not beautiful in my eyes and are tolerated at best. There is certainly a philosophical reason to address scratches or just do nothing and let them accumulate. I don’t worry about them or freak out when they happen because I know I can address them which takes any new watch stress away. Knowledge is power and ignorance is fear. Perhaps that is why new watch owners are so paranoid about scratches because they don’t know how to address them and they don’t want to just “live with them”.


This is a 17 year old Bluesy that has been on countless dives and was my every day (only) watch for over eight years. This watch never even had a routine service for its first 15 years of life. I addressed every scratch as it happened on this watch over the years with a Cape Cod system. The lines on this watch from the bracelet, clasp and case are as sharp as it was from the day it was new. At its routine 15 year service, Rikki had to polish very little and mentioned how well I kept the watch up as it makes his job easier. When a skilled and respected watch maker praises your watch maintenance routine, I am going to say it is good empirical data that this method should be kept up.
Learning how to use a Cape Cod cloth isn’t that complicated but if you are freaked out with the idea, you can always practice on your silverware and move up to a watch. Knowing you don’t have to live with a door jam smack might let some relax and enjoy their watch even more.



Anyone want to show me I did any damage with a cape cod cloth using it for almost a decade?

Good value add to this thread. Nice watch!!!!!

[Buzzlite]

That is amazing,

Could you describe your method of using cape cod cloth ?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Mystro

Making blanket Cape Cod statements is very short sighted.
I became a master with the Cape Cod cloth over 30 years. I wear my watches but they always look pristine to a certain level. I address scratches on a semi regular basis. You can’t take off too much metal and you won’t take any of the sharp lines off your watch with a Cape Cod cloth. At this point, I know what is normal hairlines and what are unacceptable scratches. Taking off scratches are like getting a haircut to me. It’s just something you must do to keep up a reasonable appearance.

On the flip side I also get pristine watch money when I trade them on. Scratches are not beautiful in my eyes and are tolerated at best. There is certainly a philosophical reason to address scratches or just do nothing and let them accumulate. I don’t worry about them or freak out when they happen because I know I can address them which takes any new watch stress away. Knowledge is power and ignorance is fear. Perhaps that is why new watch owners are so paranoid about scratches because they don’t know how to address them and they don’t want to just “live with them”.


This is a 17 year old Bluesy that has been on countless dives and was my every day (only) watch for over eight years. This watch never even had a routine service for its first 15 years of life. I addressed every scratch as it happened on this watch over the years with a Cape Cod system. The lines on this watch from the bracelet, clasp and case are as sharp as it was from the day it was new. At its routine 15 year service, Rikki had to polish very little and mentioned how well I kept the watch up as it makes his job easier. When a skilled and respected watch maker praises your watch maintenance routine, I am going to say it is good empirical data that this method should be kept up.
Learning how to use a Cape Cod cloth isn’t that complicated but if you are freaked out with the idea, you can always practice on your silverware and move up to a watch. Knowing you don’t have to live with a door jam smack might let some relax and enjoy their watch even more.



Anyone want to show me I did any damage with a cape cod cloth using it for almost a decade?

[Overwound]

Originally Posted by Buzzlite

So put grape seed oil on the lugs or pcl first ? Then cape cod ?

I like to sauté with chopped garlic and some cracked pepper first.




Mystro, I'm not one to polish at home but you did a fantastic job maintaining that Sub!

[5nit]

Originally Posted by Overwound

I like to sauté with chopped garlic and some cracked pepper first.

It’s a recommended lubricant safe to use on our watches and using cape cod.

[Mystro]

Originally Posted by Buzzlite

That is amazing,

Could you describe your method of using cape cod cloth ?

Thanks

I have done a few threads on this over the last decade on the forum.
The best advice is to know your metal textures and finishes. In other words, never address different finishes at the same time. With most Rolex models you have polished and brushed finishes. When working on one finish like polished, you must tape off the brushed finish if you are getting anywhere near that area. Satin or sand blasted finishes I wont touch. That would be a YM bezel and some Sinn watches. It goes without saying no motorized polishing machines ever. That includes a dremel. Dremels are what can destroy a factory line. Most all of the horrible polishing jobs that scare the newbies about watch polishing were done with a dremel. What we are doing isn't in the same zip code of what a dremel can do.

A scotchbrite pad will do your brushed finishes and Cape Cod with different polishing cloths for the other polished surfaces. Its a long detailed process but always use long smooth strokes when polishing. Never short fast back and forth motions on either polished or brushed finishes. Never apply a lot of pressure as it will only leave you with crappy results. Polish in the direction of the metal area in its organic shape. This means never polish directly on a sharp case line. Very Zen like but work in the directions of the lines of the watch. If its the clasp then long full length strokes and never side to side. If its the side of the polished case, then your strokes must start at the tip of the lug and all the way to the other lug not stopping the motion. Short choppy motions are what ruins a good polish.
Keep your work area surgically clean as well as your cloths and materials. Cant stress this enough. Any contamination to your finishing cloths will leave hairline scratches so keep each cloth in their own sealed ziplock bag. Shortcuts and rushing to remove a scratch is what leaves amature looking polishing. Use a loupe and/or magnification "reader" glasses. You need to see everything. Knowledge is power and you have to be able to diagnose exactly what kind of blemish you are looking at. Never go beyond your comfort level and that level can only be raised with experience. Sometimes its better to just reduce a scratch and stay in your comfort zone. When you get better, you can always revisit that mark again. I have developed all kinds of techniques and some unconventional products to use to polish a watch. Start with the basics and move up, in the end its only metal.

I can go on and on and its impossible to learn all this on line.
I am a PCA concours judge as well as competitor. The same principles with getting a paint finish to a show level is very similar to polishing a scratch out of a watch. Rushing and shortcuts are where mistakes are made.

[5nit]

Originally Posted by Mystro

I have done a few threads on this over the last decade on the forum.
The best advice is to know your metal textures and finishes. In other words, never address different finishes at the same time. With most Rolex models you have polished and brushed finishes. When working on one finish like polished, you must tape off the brushed finish if you are getting anywhere near that area. Satin or sand blasted finishes I wont touch. That would be a YM bezel and some Sinn watches. It goes without saying no motorized polishing machines ever. That includes a dremel. Dremels are what can destroy a factory line. Most all of the horrible polishing jobs that scare the newbies about watch polishing were done with a dremel. What we are doing isn't in the same zip code of what a dremel can do.

A scotchbrite pad will do your brushed finishes and Cape Cod with different polishing cloths for the other polished surfaces. Its a long detailed process but always use long smooth strokes when polishing. Never short fast back and forth motions on either polished or brushed finishes. Never apply a lot of pressure as it will only leave you with crappy results. Polish in the direction of the metal area in its organic shape. This means never polish directly on a sharp case line. Very Zen like but work in the directions of the lines of the watch. If its the clasp then long full length strokes and never side to side. If its the side of the polished case, then your strokes must start at the tip of the lug and all the way to the other lug not stopping the motion. Short choppy motions are what ruins a good polish.
Keep your work area surgically clean as well as your cloths and materials. Cant stress this enough. Any contamination to your finishing cloths will leave hairline scratches so keep each cloth in their own sealed ziplock bag. Shortcuts and rushing to remove a scratch is what leaves amature looking polishing. Use a loupe and/or magnification "reader" glasses. You need to see everything. Knowledge is power and you have to be able to diagnose exactly what kind of blemish you are looking at. Never go beyond your comfort level and that level can only be raised with experience. Sometimes its better to just reduce a scratch and stay in your comfort zone. When you get better, you can always revisit that mark again. I have developed all kinds of techniques and some unconventional products to use to polish a watch. Start with the basics and move up, in the end its only metal.

I can go on and on and its impossible to learn all this on line.
I am a PCA concours judge as well as competitor. The same principles with getting a paint finish to a show level is very similar to polishing a scratch out of a watch. Rushing and shortcuts are where mistakes are made.

I often make reference to car paint when talking about polishing watches.

Another great post by you.

[blada4life]

Originally Posted by Mystro

Making blanket Cape Cod statements is very short sighted.
I became a master with the Cape Cod cloth over 30 years. I wear my watches but they always look pristine to a certain level. I address scratches on a semi regular basis. You can’t take off too much metal and you won’t take any of the sharp lines off your watch with a Cape Cod cloth. At this point, I know what is normal hairlines and what are unacceptable scratches. Taking off scratches are like getting a haircut to me. It’s just something you must do to keep up a reasonable appearance.

On the flip side I also get pristine watch money when I trade them on. Scratches are not beautiful in my eyes and are tolerated at best. There is certainly a philosophical reason to address scratches or just do nothing and let them accumulate. I don’t worry about them or freak out when they happen because I know I can address them which takes any new watch stress away. Knowledge is power and ignorance is fear. Perhaps that is why new watch owners are so paranoid about scratches because they don’t know how to address them and they don’t want to just “live with them”.


This is a 17 year old Bluesy that has been on countless dives and was my every day (only) watch for over eight years. This watch never even had a routine service for its first 15 years of life. I addressed every scratch as it happened on this watch over the years with a Cape Cod system. The lines on this watch from the bracelet, clasp and case are as sharp as it was from the day it was new. At its routine 15 year service, Rikki had to polish very little and mentioned how well I kept the watch up as it makes his job easier. When a skilled and respected watch maker praises your watch maintenance routine, I am going to say it is good empirical data that this method should be kept up.
Learning how to use a Cape Cod cloth isn’t that complicated but if you are freaked out with the idea, you can always practice on your silverware and move up to a watch. Knowing you don’t have to live with a door jam smack might let some relax and enjoy their watch even more.



Anyone want to show me I did any damage with a cape cod cloth using it for almost a decade?

Watch looks great. How often would you cape cod it. Care to make a post specifically about your methods etc and we can reference it? Maybe even a pictorial walk through.


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[Mystro]

Originally Posted by blada4life

Watch looks great. How often would you cape cod it. Care to make a post specifically about your methods etc and we can reference it? Maybe even a pictorial walk through.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It depends. Over the years you learn all the little tricks how to “not” smack your watch. We had a forum master thread on this a few years back. I may not touch my watch up for months if it’s not needed. I may hit it every week if I dive with it often A tip to avoid scratches is you can’t wash it enough. Avoid wiping oil/smudges off on your cloths. I know it’s hard to look down and see them on your PCL but wait and wash it in the sink with soap. Using your cloths as a rag is doing more harm than good. A clean watch is a happy watch. This is a major way keeping your PCL clasp reasonably scratch free. Dawn dish soap diluted in a pump by the sink.

[Bigblu10]

Originally Posted by Mystro

It depends. Over the years you learn all the little tricks how to “not” smack your watch. We had a forum master thread on this a few years back. I may not touch my watch up for months if it’s not needed. I may hit it every week if I dive with it often A tip to avoid scratches is you can’t wash it enough. Avoid wiping oil/smudges off on your cloths. I know it’s hard to look down and see them on your PCL but wait and wash it in the sink with soap. Using your cloths as a rag is doing more harm than good. A clean watch is a happy watch. This is a major way keeping your PCL clasp reasonably scratch free. Dawn dish soap diluted in a pump by the sink.

Clean is happy. If one showers his/her body on a daily basis then you should clean the nastiness off your watch on a daily basis. Dish soap and water are cheap. Use them as much as possible. There are folks here who barely ever clean their watches, yuk.

[Buzzlite]

Thank you very much for that advice, I have printed this out and keep in my reference book.

Thanks again

Originally Posted by Mystro

I have done a few threads on this over the last decade on the forum.
The best advice is to know your metal textures and finishes. In other words, never address different finishes at the same time. With most Rolex models you have polished and brushed finishes. When working on one finish like polished, you must tape off the brushed finish if you are getting anywhere near that area. Satin or sand blasted finishes I wont touch. That would be a YM bezel and some Sinn watches. It goes without saying no motorized polishing machines ever. That includes a dremel. Dremels are what can destroy a factory line. Most all of the horrible polishing jobs that scare the newbies about watch polishing were done with a dremel. What we are doing isn't in the same zip code of what a dremel can do.

A scotchbrite pad will do your brushed finishes and Cape Cod with different polishing cloths for the other polished surfaces. Its a long detailed process but always use long smooth strokes when polishing. Never short fast back and forth motions on either polished or brushed finishes. Never apply a lot of pressure as it will only leave you with crappy results. Polish in the direction of the metal area in its organic shape. This means never polish directly on a sharp case line. Very Zen like but work in the directions of the lines of the watch. If its the clasp then long full length strokes and never side to side. If its the side of the polished case, then your strokes must start at the tip of the lug and all the way to the other lug not stopping the motion. Short choppy motions are what ruins a good polish.
Keep your work area surgically clean as well as your cloths and materials. Cant stress this enough. Any contamination to your finishing cloths will leave hairline scratches so keep each cloth in their own sealed ziplock bag. Shortcuts and rushing to remove a scratch is what leaves amature looking polishing. Use a loupe and/or magnification "reader" glasses. You need to see everything. Knowledge is power and you have to be able to diagnose exactly what kind of blemish you are looking at. Never go beyond your comfort level and that level can only be raised with experience. Sometimes its better to just reduce a scratch and stay in your comfort zone. When you get better, you can always revisit that mark again. I have developed all kinds of techniques and some unconventional products to use to polish a watch. Start with the basics and move up, in the end its only metal.

I can go on and on and its impossible to learn all this on line.
I am a PCA concours judge as well as competitor. The same principles with getting a paint finish to a show level is very similar to polishing a scratch out of a watch. Rushing and shortcuts are where mistakes are made.

[Nikrnic]

Well said Mystro..

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Overwound]

Originally Posted by 5nit

It’s a recommended lubricant safe to use on our watches and using cape cod.

You've taught me something new today!

[5nit]

Originally Posted by Overwound

You've taught me something new today!

Practice on different materials. I did. I would take a cap cod to a brand new watch any day with great results. I’m not living with crappy scratches on things I take pride in and enjoy. Same as I fixed the damaged drywall in my kitchen from a chair.


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[Jim Smyth]

Cape Cod can only get you so far. With someone that practices you can get pretty good and make it a acceptable finish. But the only true way to get rid of those swirl marks is with a buffer in proper hands. Combine that with buffer wheel selections and proper rouges. Best bet is to leave it alone until service intervals.

[5nit]

Originally Posted by Jim Smyth

Cape Cod can only get you so far. With someone that practices you can get pretty good and make it a acceptable finish. But the only true way to get rid of those swirl marks is with a buffer in proper hands. Combine that with buffer wheel selections and proper rouges. Best bet is to leave it alone until service intervals.

Nah, take out and keep touched up every year or six months and then have it fixed at service time.

[Tlon]

Nice advice on how to take care of a watch. I haven't quite got the handle on cape cod cloth, but have had good luck with the 3m polishing sheets (and Bergeon block for brushed finishes). Seeing what you were able to do with the Cape Cod cloth, though, I may need to give it another go.

I purchased a cheap knockoff clasp and case off of eBay to practice on. Amazing what results you can get with a little practice.

For those looking for more detailed instructions, this site is very helpful:

https://www.minus4plus6.com/maintenance.php

Originally Posted by Mystro

I have done a few threads on this over the last decade on the forum.
The best advice is to know your metal textures and finishes. In other words, never address different finishes at the same time. With most Rolex models you have polished and brushed finishes. When working on one finish like polished, you must tape off the brushed finish if you are getting anywhere near that area. Satin or sand blasted finishes I wont touch. That would be a YM bezel and some Sinn watches. It goes without saying no motorized polishing machines ever. That includes a dremel. Dremels are what can destroy a factory line. Most all of the horrible polishing jobs that scare the newbies about watch polishing were done with a dremel. What we are doing isn't in the same zip code of what a dremel can do.

A scotchbrite pad will do your brushed finishes and Cape Cod with different polishing cloths for the other polished surfaces. Its a long detailed process but always use long smooth strokes when polishing. Never short fast back and forth motions on either polished or brushed finishes. Never apply a lot of pressure as it will only leave you with crappy results. Polish in the direction of the metal area in its organic shape. This means never polish directly on a sharp case line. Very Zen like but work in the directions of the lines of the watch. If its the clasp then long full length strokes and never side to side. If its the side of the polished case, then your strokes must start at the tip of the lug and all the way to the other lug not stopping the motion. Short choppy motions are what ruins a good polish.
Keep your work area surgically clean as well as your cloths and materials. Cant stress this enough. Any contamination to your finishing cloths will leave hairline scratches so keep each cloth in their own sealed ziplock bag. Shortcuts and rushing to remove a scratch is what leaves amature looking polishing. Use a loupe and/or magnification "reader" glasses. You need to see everything. Knowledge is power and you have to be able to diagnose exactly what kind of blemish you are looking at. Never go beyond your comfort level and that level can only be raised with experience. Sometimes its better to just reduce a scratch and stay in your comfort zone. When you get better, you can always revisit that mark again. I have developed all kinds of techniques and some unconventional products to use to polish a watch. Start with the basics and move up, in the end its only metal.

I can go on and on and its impossible to learn all this on line.
I am a PCA concours judge as well as competitor. The same principles with getting a paint finish to a show level is very similar to polishing a scratch out of a watch. Rushing and shortcuts are where mistakes are made.

[Onikage]

I'm not against taking care of the odd mark. To paint it as harmless good practice I disagree with. There are countless examples of once sharp centre link edges being worn down through people going at it. It's important that people understand that getting scratches out means taking off the surrounding area to the same depth. Remember that when you're maintaining your (hall of) mirror finish.

[kieselguhr]

Originally Posted by Mystro

This is a 17 year old Bluesy that has been on countless dives and was my every day (only) watch for over eight years. This watch never even had a routine service for its first 15 years of life. I addressed every scratch as it happened on this watch over the years with a Cape Cod system.

Anyone want to show me I did any damage with a cape cod cloth using it for almost a decade?

Strong work No visible signs of damage to me anyway.


Some people prefer to let their watches age gracefully. Some people like to keep it “pristine looking” indefinitely. Enjoy your watches the way you want to.

I have no problems with a watch getting its polish during routine service intervals. I just feel that it’s too much effort and time to take different cloths, paste, coconut oil, tape, etc when it gets done at no additional expense to you with routine service anyway.

I don’t know about you guys but I prefer to spend that time and effort on things that actually matter like loved ones and family instead. I’m already away from them enough as it is.