Can I hire a watchmaker to make me a custom watch?

[VFA]

I have a watch in mind that is not offered by any brand. A combination of complications:

Annual calendar
Dual time
Power reserve indicator
Automatic

and some other stuff.

It would be interesting to design the dial, hands, case and materials myself and ask a watchmaker to make this unique piece by modifying an ETA movement.

Budget around 50k.

Would this be possible? Is my budget too low? Who can I talk to about this?

[Hendrikus]

I suspect Roger Smith might do it; but I suspect you would need more like £100,000! And it will take a few years...

[PJ S]

At a guess, you’d need to at least triple the budget, and even then I’m thinking that’d be dir an existing movement to which a PR could be fitted.
Off top of my head, Ulysse Nardin have the El Toro (and another model) which offers a Perpetual calendar, GMT, and automatic features.
Not sure if they’d entertain a different case, and if there’s much you can change about the dial other than colour.

If you’re really serious, then you could start discussions with Dubois-Depraz since they make various modules for usage on ETA base calibers, and may be able to provide a list of companies who can offer cases, etc.
In terms of a single watchmaker to approach for assembly, one that springs to mind is Paul Gerber, but you’d be best to contact others listed in the AHCI.

[_speedmaster_]

Voutilainen has been known to make custom, very small batch watches for customers as well. But, as others have said, the budget will be well north of $100k.

[77T]

A couple of thoughts -

First, if you want just one made then that would be a high unit cost. If your plan is a limited edition of say 50 or 100, then the overall cost is high but unit cost is lower. And you’d recoup your personal costs in sales.

Next, perhaps find a movement that checks all the boxes for the complications and functions you want (without bolting on new hardware). Then build your dial design, etc. around that. Your costs would be lower for dial creation plus disassembly/reassembly.

You didn’t mention bracelet/strap ideas, but that’s another issue if you want a custom metal bracelet.


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[kunlun]

Yes. My watchmaker has offered. Budget will be higher.

RGM is a good place to go with serious inquiries.

[VFA]

Originally Posted by Hendrikus

I suspect Roger Smith might do it; but I suspect you would need more like £100,000! And it will take a few years...

Originally Posted by _speedmaster_

Voutilainen has been known to make custom, very small batch watches for customers as well. But, as others have said, the budget will be well north of $100k.

I would absolutely pay 100k to Roger Smith or Voutilainen for my perfect watch with all the complications I need. Considering it would be a unique movement 100k sounds like a good deal. I doubt they would entertain me.

[VFA]

Originally Posted by kunlun

Yes. My watchmaker has offered. Budget will be higher.

Can you elaborate please? What were you told?

Originally Posted by kunlun

RGM is a good place to go with serious inquiries.

RGM?

[VFA]

Originally Posted by PJ S

At a guess, you’d need to at least triple the budget, and even then I’m thinking that’d be dir an existing movement to which a PR could be fitted.
Off top of my head, Ulysse Nardin have the El Toro (and another model) which offers a Perpetual calendar, GMT, and automatic features.
Not sure if they’d entertain a different case, and if there’s much you can change about the dial other than colour.

If you’re really serious, then you could start discussions with Dubois-Depraz since they make various modules for usage on ETA base calibers, and may be able to provide a list of companies who can offer cases, etc.
In terms of a single watchmaker to approach for assembly, one that springs to mind is Paul Gerber, but you’d be best to contact others listed in the AHCI.

Great ideas. Might send an email to Dubois-Depraz to see what they think.

[kunlun]

Originally Posted by Hendrikus

I suspect Roger Smith might do it; but I suspect you would need more like £100,000! And it will take a few years...

Ha ha, no. You are so wrong.

[kunlun]

Originally Posted by VFA

Can you elaborate please? What were you told?



RGM?

If you were serious, I would put you in touch with my watchmaker.

It seems like you may be new to watches, so maybe start with owning some high-end watches first. Also, google rgm watches. Enjoy!

[VFA]

Originally Posted by kunlun

If you were serious, I would put you in touch with my watchmaker.

It seems like you may be new to watches, so maybe start with owning some high-end watches first. Also, google rgm watches. Enjoy!

RGM looks very interesting. I may shoot them an email. Not new to watches unfortunately. Been into them for 5 years and own multiple high-end watches.

[kunlun]

Originally Posted by VFA

RGM looks very interesting. I may shoot them an email. Not new to watches unfortunately. Been into them for 5 years and own multiple high-end watches.

I'm surprised you hadn't heard of RGM! Roland can make you a watch for sure, that may be the best route.

[Pongster]

RGM has done annual calendars (even perps), dual time, power reserve and automatic. Just have not come accross with all of them together.

I suppose you also want your custom watch in VFA specs?

Good luck.