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Old 30 March 2023, 04:56 AM   #31
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Rolex is moving upmarket and further away from the so-called tool watches of the past but without sacrificing functionality and specs. And they've been playing it rather safe imho.

Whether one would opt to actually wear a given contemporary reference for its intended use or not, is a matter of personal choice but the capability is there.

As more and more people are becoming able and willing to part with the required cash, Rolex will expand its offerings to cater for this base. And adjust its prices accordingly.

Everyone is free to choose where they draw the line between what they deem worth acquiring and what not.
Rolex may have traditionally been a slow ship to steer only because they've been acutely aware of the trends; not the fads.

Tudor is slowly (or not so slowly) becoming what Rolex used to be and that's a fact. We are sure to see more and more from them, even closer to the design archetypes of their bigger sibling. If anyone is entitled to the Rolex design DNA, that has to be Tudor. I consider it another line not necessarily a separate brand
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Old 30 March 2023, 04:58 AM   #32
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The direction they are taking is more parts and steps in the process of production handled by machines, to compensate for the time needed to train watchmakers.

Wether or not Rolex becomes a technology company remains to be seen. But I can't help but think the move to standardise sizing and case shape across the Daytona line, moving to bezel housing with ceramic insert with printed numbers vs laser etched and filled numbers, is just another way to cut down on production costs, reduce the reliance on manual intervention and produce more for less using machinery.

That if true, will be a sad route forward. But maybe a happy one as more people get what they want!
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Old 30 March 2023, 05:06 AM   #33
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The direction they are taking is more parts and steps in the process of production handled by machines, to compensate for the time needed to train watchmakers.

Wether or not Rolex becomes a technology company remains to be seen. But I can't help but think the move to standardise sizing and case shape across the Daytona line, moving to bezel housing with ceramic insert with printed numbers vs laser etched and filled numbers, is just another way to cut down on production costs, reduce the reliance on manual intervention and produce more for less using machinery.

That if true, will be a sad route forward. But maybe a happy one as more people get what they want!
The bezel's tachymetric scale is still etched and platinum PVD filled AFAIK.
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Old 30 March 2023, 05:12 AM   #34
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Ding Ding Ding. Anyone who thinks Rolex is going after 50 plus bankers or doctors or lawyers with the sports car in the McMansion driveway and watch shots with driving gloves... ...are probably 50 plus bankers or doctors or lawyers with the sports car in the McMansion driveway and watch shots with driving gloves. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but no one stays the apex customer forever. Most of us aren't Rolex priorities, even those among us with lots of money and huge collections that go back 30 years. The top of the marketing game is no longer billboards and magazine spreads and race tracks. This isn't Mad Men lol. Big time marketing in this day and age is getting your product on the wrist of wildly popular 20 something Tik Tok stars. Sorry guys, but whatever bygone era you might long to return just ain't. Brave new world.
Agree. Padi should realise this too, with his deep seated antipathy towards social media. Such is life.

The “Bubbles” OP gets the entry interest whilst the jigsaw day date gets the big boys involved. Love it or hate Rolex knows what it’s doing and needs to do. It’s not the biggest luxury watch manufacturer in the world by fluke
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Old 30 March 2023, 05:17 AM   #35
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I think the bubble dial looks cheap and is not a good one for the Rolex brand image.
Hell, some of their crazy gem set Daytonas look like costume jewelry a kid would pull out of a machine with a claw for a dollar.
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Old 30 March 2023, 05:23 AM   #36
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What do you think about the direction Rolex is taking?

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Originally Posted by minute_man View Post
Rolex is moving upmarket and further away from the so-called tool watches of the past but without sacrificing functionality and specs. And they've been playing it rather safe imho.

Whether one would opt to actually wear a given contemporary reference for its intended use or not, is a matter of personal choice but the capability is there.

As more and more people are becoming able and willing to part with the required cash, Rolex will expand its offerings to cater for this base. And adjust its prices accordingly.

Everyone is free to choose where they draw the line between what they deem worth acquiring and what not.
Rolex may have traditionally been a slow ship to steer only because they've been acutely aware of the trends; not the fads.

Tudor is slowly (or not so slowly) becoming what Rolex used to be and that's a fact. We are sure to see more and more from them, even closer to the design archetypes of their bigger sibling. If anyone is entitled to the Rolex design DNA, that has to be Tudor. I consider it another line not necessarily a separate brand

They were always upmarket. I remember back in the 80s and 90s. None of my friends or I could afford a so called Rolex “tool watch.”


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Old 30 March 2023, 05:24 AM   #37
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Agree. Padi should realise this too, with his deep seated antipathy towards social media. Such is life.
Antipathy towards social media? What does he think TRF is? Sure it's just about the most outrageously outdated format around with the same 30 or 40 angry posters everyday and is unsurprisingly filled with older white dudes but still...
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Old 30 March 2023, 05:28 AM   #38
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There were always upmarket.


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Agreed; should have used *further* upmarket. As they're positioning themselves in the haute horlogerie realm. Without bringing much to the table, in terms of complications, or finishing, to be honest...Just the name.
And the current (even retail) pricing is equally out of reach for (still) most, in similar stages in life.
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Old 30 March 2023, 05:44 AM   #39
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Tudor is slowly (or not so slowly) becoming what Rolex used to be and that's a fact. We are sure to see more and more from them, even closer to the design archetypes of their bigger sibling. If anyone is entitled to the Rolex design DNA, that has to be Tudor. I consider it another line not necessarily a separate brand

Let me know when Tudor is making solid gold watches worn by Presidents and World Leaders.


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Old 30 March 2023, 06:01 AM   #40
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Let me know when Tudor is making solid gold watches worn by Presidents and World Leaders.


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Pretty sure Clinton and George W both wore a Timex and Obama wore a Tag. A lot of those guys don't really care about fancy watches it seems.
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:06 AM   #41
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Every time Rolex releases new models, I realize that the brand steadily reflects who I am as a person less and less, and at an accelerating rate. I have realized that I love Rolex mainly for what it used to be; it’s legacy, it’s stories, the many marks it has made on history.

But if Rolex was launched today with only the models they offer now, at the price they offer them, I would probably think they were among the most uninspired, gaudy, and unnecessarily overpriced watches on the market, existing only for hype’s sake. I’m not into male jewelry or vulgar displays of wealth for its own sake, so I wouldn’t be the least bit impressed.

And my brand would probably be Tudor.
+1, as R is hard to get, Tudor is my fave for now n saving up for a Patek, hopefully
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:13 AM   #42
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Pretty sure Clinton and George W both wore a Timex and Obama wore a Tag. A lot of those guys don't really care about fancy watches it seems.
Of course. That's not the point. Actually, Obama wore a Cellini. Either way, Tudor is not Rolex. Doesn't have the prestige...
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:30 AM   #43
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Of course. That's not the point. Actually, Obama wore a Cellini. Either way, Tudor is not Rolex. Doesn't have the prestige...
I don't think I understand the point then. Were you not basically saying that Tudor isn't fancy enough for presidents and world leaders?
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:33 AM   #44
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This was a stellar year for Rolex announcements, IMHO.
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:42 AM   #45
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There are any number of bread and butter models still being made. This year's more eye catching updates are a small subsection of what is more broadly available, from sensible to bonkers with price points to match.
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:48 AM   #46
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Times change. A no date Sub is approaching ten grand. “A man and his Rolex” died a long time ago. This is not a criticism so much as it is a statement of fact. The brand is now something different than what it once was. It is what it is.
"A man and his Tudor"...... :)
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:50 AM   #47
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I don't think I understand the point then. Were you not basically saying that Tudor isn't fancy enough for presidents and world leaders?
I think Tudor is a brand meant to be the entry level step for Rolex. I would assume world leaders typically would not buy a Tudor unless they are avid watch collectors already. I think it’s pretty much Rolex or bust if they want a singular luxury watch to wear.
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:51 AM   #48
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I don't really know what the issue is, I for one love a fair few of the novelties.

The Yacht Master? Yes please, I'm putting my name down for that one.
The colorful bubble OP? How cool is that? Isn't it fantastic that a brand like Rolex will do such a thing? They are serious enough to know not to take themselves too seriously and I love that. The Emoji watch? Even more so.

And then there are the very Rolex glacial changes to the Daytona and the GMT. I doubt these would be controversial with any group. I know I'd wear that golden GMT, the two tone one as well actually.

And the green Sky Dweller? Oh boy, if I didn't have and so much love my blue one, I'd be all over that one.
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:53 AM   #49
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Only that at this buffet, not everyone can always get a table. I’ve been standing outside hoping for a table for a while now…
I couldn’t agree more. I’m very fortunate to have a seat in a corner of the room but to suggest there’s ‘something for everyone’ is deluded. There are plenty for the very wealthy regulars and next to none for first time buyers. Rolex has literally closed the door to them.
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:53 AM   #50
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What do you think about the direction Rolex is taking?

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I don't think I understand the point then. Were you not basically saying that Tudor isn't fancy enough for presidents and world leaders?

Well, people keep saying that Tudor is what Rolex used to be. But if you go back in history, world leaders, and the richest of the rich were wearing Rolex watches. I’m talking about the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s…

Winston Churchill, President Eisenhower, Fidel Castro didn’t wear a Tudor; they wore a Rolex.

Sean Connery and Roger Moore famously wore Rolex watches.

Steve McQueen wore a Rolex.

I just don’t see Tudor in that category. Tudor is what it is. It’s the cheaper, more affordable brand. It always was that way. It is that way today, and that is how it will be 20 years from now. It’s not what Rolex used to be.


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Old 30 March 2023, 07:01 AM   #51
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Rolex's direction? Well, let's put it this way. It is making me go back to vintage.
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Old 30 March 2023, 07:02 AM   #52
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Pretty sure Clinton and George W both wore a Timex and Obama wore a Tag. A lot of those guys don't really care about fancy watches it seems.
A lot of those guys are politically savvy enough not to let it show if they do. You have to be Biden's age to be able to pull off a Rolex on the campaign trail.
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Old 30 March 2023, 07:31 AM   #53
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I don't think Rolex has changed much this year. For the most part the new releases are the same elegant and practical configurations. One bubble dial out of countless configurations and some people are up in arms. These would be so limited that no regular customers are going to get them anyway.

I would only start to worry if they started to release "limited editions" after some movie or cartoon characters.
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Old 30 March 2023, 07:34 AM   #54
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I don't think Rolex are doing anything different to what they've always done - i.e. glacially slow development of their key lines (that STILL manages to irritate some!), and a few more "unusual" releases here and there to appeal to the young and/or "daring".

For all the highly polarised opinions on the new Daytona, the fact is it's incredibly similar to the outgoing model, even to the hardened WIS. The new Exp 40 will look identical to the Exp 39 to anyone but hardcore Explorer fans. The "new" SkyDweller is exactly the same aesthetically as the old SkyDweller. The new GMT is exactly the same as the existing GMT except for the case material and bezel insert.

And at the other end we get the supposedly "wacky and fun" bubbles OP and the puzzle Non-Day-Non-Date. IMO these aren't a lot different to the Stella dials of the '70's and '80's. Or the hideous 116598 SACO. Or the King Midas. Or the 6694 Mickey Mouse.

Rolex is one of the few watch companies that doesn't feel the need to reinvent itself every few years. And if you think that it is, you want to try being a Breitling fan! It seems like the entire collection is changed from the ground up every few years.
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Old 30 March 2023, 09:26 AM   #55
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For a company that built its success on consistency, functionality and NOT being fashion driven....the last few years have been Bold statements that fashion and jewelry are now a priority at Rolex .

This was evidenced last year by the bold oyster perpetual line and the tutone additions to the explorer, seadweller. This year, they built on this further with datejust modifications , Oyster Bubbles.

They have done a nice job flexing their innovative muscle with the release of Deep Sea Challenge and 1908

They have Kept true to their heritage with subtle but noticeable changes to the daytona and no changes to the Submariner, and GMT

Once thing is for sure, Rolex is paying attention and staying ahead of a rapidly changing watch market.
Which bold OPs we're introduced last year?.. if memory serves they actually dropped the most popular ones..how's that for customer care.

The TT additions were just a lazy easy way to up the margins rather than any bold statement
Ironically there doesn't seem much love for the TT explorers either..

The bubbles thing is a nonsense , chances are they will make very few and only high profile celebs will get them and the autism awareness is pure virtual signalling..again earmarked for the select few

Rolex are as cynical as a business can be tbf tbh.
IMHO
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Old 30 March 2023, 09:55 AM   #56
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Rolex is devolving into another Omega, except with the OP and the DD ... for those, it has devolved into another Swatch. Very sad.
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Old 30 March 2023, 10:06 AM   #57
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For a company that built its success on consistency, functionality and NOT being fashion driven....the last few years have been Bold statements that fashion and jewelry are now a priority at Rolex .

This was evidenced last year by the bold oyster perpetual line and the tutone additions to the explorer, seadweller. This year, they built on this further with datejust modifications , Oyster Bubbles.

They have done a nice job flexing their innovative muscle with the release of Deep Sea Challenge and 1908

They have Kept true to their heritage with subtle but noticeable changes to the daytona and no changes to the Submariner, and GMT

Once thing is for sure, Rolex is paying attention and staying ahead of a rapidly changing watch market.
Last year??? I’ve been complaining about the direction of Rolex since the introduction of the six-digit watches!
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Old 30 March 2023, 10:12 AM   #58
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To quote Andre Heiniger “Rolex is not in the watch business, we are in the luxury business.”
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Old 30 March 2023, 10:40 AM   #59
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It's the direction YOU take with Rolex.
^^^^^
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Old 30 March 2023, 10:05 PM   #60
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Rolex is devolving into another Omega, except with the OP and the DD ... for those, it has devolved into another Swatch. Very sad.
I don't care for the gimmicks either. Meteorite, yes. Dippin Dots, no. Very Omega-esque move indeed.
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