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Old 19 September 2021, 04:17 AM   #1
Ferrari308
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How do you best authenticate a vintage OP??

No real AD here to take it to, so anything I can do to check it on my own?? Or is that the only real option? I would rather do it myself than take it to anyone I know locally - for personal reasons.


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Old 19 September 2021, 04:55 AM   #2
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You could begin with removing the bracelet to see the reference numbers on the case, model at 12 o'clock and serial at the 6 o'clock. You could also remove the caseback to see what reference is on the caseback and see what movement it has.
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Old 19 September 2021, 05:00 AM   #3
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Posting good pics here is pretty reliable
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Old 19 September 2021, 05:08 AM   #4
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Post pics and we’ll likely be able to identify everything that matters.
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Old 19 September 2021, 09:46 AM   #5
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Ok, here you go.

Model appears to be 1014, which is consistent with being an OP.

Serial appears to be 669XXX which I think dates the watch to 1961-62.

Thank you all for your willingness to help!



PDG
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Old 19 September 2021, 10:17 AM   #6
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The caseback looks to be SS? So gold fill, and no hall marks? Dial and crown look ok. Second hand looks to be a replacement. GF OPs are not a popular choice amongst counterfeiters (not enough return). Can you open it for pics (Case back stamps and movement)?
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Old 19 September 2021, 11:24 AM   #7
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The caseback looks to be SS? So gold fill, and no hall marks? Dial and crown look ok. Second hand looks to be a replacement. GF OPs are not a popular choice amongst counterfeiters (not enough return). Can you open it for pics (Case back stamps and movement)?
I have no idea how to open the caseback. Is that a simple thing to do? I would be all for it, but other than getting a pair of pliers...

I kind of had a feeling that it wouldn't be a great choice for a watch to be counterfeited. I had no idea on the second hand though, so thank you for pointing that out.

I really got it because I wanted something vintage, but not too expensive. I just want to verify that it's not a fake.

So, how do I open it properly?


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Old 19 September 2021, 11:55 AM   #8
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Don’t use pliers. Hit eBay for a set of case back chucks.
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Old 19 September 2021, 12:04 PM   #9
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How do you best authenticate a vintage OP??

Unless it was recently serviced, your best bet is having an overhaul done by a good trusted vintage watchmaker.

If you don’t have the right skills for opening it, I wouldn’t try that just because someone wants to see inside.

I agree with other comments that few fakirs focus on OP’s.


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Old 19 September 2021, 12:07 PM   #10
Ferrari308
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Don’t use pliers. Hit eBay for a set of case back chucks.
No, would never use pliers - only meant that jokingly. ;)

Just didn't know if there was something I might be able to do without a specific tool.

Thanks all - more to follow!!



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Old 19 September 2021, 12:09 PM   #11
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Unless it was recently serviced, your best bet is having an overhaul done by a good trusted vintage watchmaker.

If you don’t have the right skills for opening it, I wouldn’t try that just because someone wants to see inside.

I agree with other comments that few fakirs focus on OP’s.


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I feel fairly confident it hasn't been serviced in a while. When I move it near my ear I can hear the weight moving, which tells me it is probably very dried out.

As it stands, I know that my particular skillset isn't (yet) opening watches...



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Old 19 September 2021, 12:11 PM   #12
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How do you best authenticate a vintage OP??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrari308 View Post
I feel fairly confident it hasn't been serviced in a while. When I move it near my ear I can hear the weight moving, which tells me it is probably very dried out.

As it stands, I know that my particular skillset isn't (yet) opening watches...



PDG



I see a quest in your future to pick the right watchmaker for the upcoming service. Either of the Ridleys might be a good choice.


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Old 19 September 2021, 12:23 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Ferrari308 View Post
No real AD here to take it to, so anything I can do to check it on my own?? Or is that the only real option? I would rather do it myself than take it to anyone I know locally - for personal reasons.


PDG
For future reference, if you’re near Memphis, take it to Bob Richards Jewelers (an AD) in Germantown. He’ll authenticate at no charge. Stay away from Lee Michael’s. They’ll charge you double to send it to RSC Dallas.
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Old 19 September 2021, 12:48 PM   #14
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A rubber ball. Or the Superglue + Bolt and Acetone truck…
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Old 19 September 2021, 01:22 PM   #15
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Vintage OPs are pretty low on the counterfeiter's list of watches to fake.
As in, I have never seen one in 30 years.
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Old 19 September 2021, 01:55 PM   #16
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I don't see any indication in your posts that the case back is stuck or otherwise difficult to remove, so you may have some options. The following list is generally ordered for case backs that are increasingly difficult to rotate. Any bold phrase can be googled for more information, pictures, and prices:
  1. Friction-grip tools: These usually range from less than $10 for a Watch Case Opening Ball to around $40 for a Bergeon 2533 Rubber Key. If you search for pictures of watch opening balls, you may already have a common household toy ball that provides similar functionality.
  2. Rolex Oyster Tool: These are specially-sized dies with teeth that will intermesh with the gear-like edges of your case back and attach to torquing handles. You can buy a set with plastic teeth or aluminum teeth from about $20 to $40 depending on the brand. Price does not necessarily correlate with material; some tools with plastic teeth can be more expensive than those with aluminum. Either material should be softer than a stainless steel case back. However, care should be taken to ensure that an aluminum tool doesn't damage a gold-alloy case back, thus a plastic tool may be safer and more universal.
  3. Superglued nut: Search YouTube for "Superglue Nut Watch Case Back." While this method is usually reserved for the tightest case backs, you may already have the common household materials available, making this method free. Note that the superglue will be removed with acetone. Like the previous method, care should be taken if you suspect the material is a gold-alloy or other alloy that is softer than stainless steel.
Again, as there's no indication that the case back is stuck, you may want to try using a toy rubber ball first. While the Oyster tools will likely make the job easy, some people may be averse to buying specialized tools that they may only use once.
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Old 20 September 2021, 12:06 AM   #17
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I wouldnt be crazy glueing anything on the first vintage. Some casebacks are tough to get open and when that happens, almost any watchmaker can pop it for you. You may pay $20 or so but you would not be making permanent scars on it... LOL
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Old 20 September 2021, 01:59 AM   #18
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Some great suggestions - if I can get the rubber ball to work especially!!

More to follow!!

Thanks to you all for the information and willingness to help!



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Old 20 September 2021, 04:48 AM   #19
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Does anyone have anything on the history of a 1014? Any sources?

Also, what would be the correct second hand for this watch?

I am thinking to replace the strap. Currently, its a black leather that has the Rolex buckle and am thinking to go with a brown alligator type strap. Quick glance makes it seem that its a 19mm. Any good sources I should check?

Thank you all for your help!

This is my first vintage watch. I have a 1990 16610 and a 2021 116503. So my third Rolex, but its the one I know the least about.



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Old 21 September 2021, 01:17 AM   #20
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For future reference, if you’re near Memphis, take it to Bob Richards Jewelers (an AD) in Germantown. He’ll authenticate at no charge. Stay away from Lee Michael’s. They’ll charge you double to send it to RSC Dallas.

I am closer to the other end of the state. My mom used to live in Southaven, so I am kind of familiar with the area. I just don't have much reason to go up there these days. I did drive through about a month ago going up to Kansas City to visit my brother.

Anyway, good info!! Thank you! Are you in the area?



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Old 21 September 2021, 08:00 AM   #21
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Follow Up

So, I did manage to find a reliable jeweler near me and decided to stop in and have it checked out.

It turns out that this watch is indeed a real Rolex. It has the 1560 movement and is dated from 1957 or so. I decided to send it off and go ahead and have it serviced as it appeared that the last service was somewhere around 1979!! I could hear the metal against metal inside it, so I figured either the movement wasn't genuine or that it was very dried out. He said it shouldn't take too long to do the service, contingent on the availability of any parts it may need.

I have "watched" it over the last few days and it seemed to be running fairly strong and consistent. I wore it for a while and put it on my winder and it seemed to do well.

Thanks for the info and again, more to follow!


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Old 21 September 2021, 06:26 PM   #22
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Health to enjoy dude.
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Old 23 September 2021, 08:09 AM   #23
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RSC is not going to service that watch...
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Old 23 September 2021, 08:41 AM   #24
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I decided to send it off and go ahead and have it serviced as it appeared that the last service was somewhere around 1979!! I could hear the metal against metal inside it, so I figured either the movement wasn't genuine or that it was very dried out. He said it shouldn't take too long to do the service, contingent on the availability of any parts it may need.
Hopefully this works out ok. Generally leaving a vintage Rolex in the hands of a jeweler is not highly recommended. You have no idea where they will send it, they are going to mark up the repair costs for their own profit, and all communication with the actual watchmaker will be secondhand. That is why the members above were trying to give you specific recommendations for trusted and experienced watchmakers.
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Old 23 September 2021, 09:14 AM   #25
Ferrari308
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RSC is not going to service that watch...
Curious why you don't think they would?



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Old 23 September 2021, 09:19 AM   #26
Ferrari308
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Hopefully this works out ok. Generally leaving a vintage Rolex in the hands of a jeweler is not highly recommended. You have no idea where they will send it, they are going to mark up the repair costs for their own profit, and all communication with the actual watchmaker will be secondhand. That is why the members above were trying to give you specific recommendations for trusted and experienced watchmakers.

Ok, this is a valid point. I appreciate your input - seriously. I guess I will find out what happens. I don't have a huge amount into the watch, which is why I thought that maybe it wasn't even genuine. I hope I haven't made a mistake as I would honestly hate myself for screwing up a 60-year-old watch as I view myself as a caretaker rather than an owner.

I think they offered and I just jumped at it getting it serviced without thinking. I did not mean to undermine or negate the advice of the members here. Apologies if I did that.


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Old 23 September 2021, 10:26 AM   #27
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Curious why you don't think they would?



PDG
It's too old. They've been turning down 15xx movement equipped watches for a decade. 1560 especially and now they send back every plastic glass 4 digit model number across the board pretty much. They are currently doing a 5500 Air King for a friend in Dallas and I thought that was a miracle. 1560...we'll see. I get requests from people referred to me by the AD here weekly that they have returned unopened.
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Old 23 September 2021, 09:12 PM   #28
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It's too old. They've been turning down 15xx movement equipped watches for a decade. 1560 especially and now they send back every plastic glass 4 digit model number across the board pretty much. They are currently doing a 5500 Air King for a friend in Dallas and I thought that was a miracle. 1560...we'll see. I get requests from people referred to me by the AD here weekly that they have returned unopened.
Interesting to know.

Thank you for your answer. In my case, I suppose its a cross my fingers and hope for the best with the whole thing.

Have a fantastic day!



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