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Old 13 February 2018, 12:32 AM   #1
mustangtornado
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Goodbye AP ADs

Looks like AP is going boutique-only. This will be great for value retention...but if there are any pieces you’re interested in that your AD has, this might be your last chance at getting an AP discount.
I know this has been rumored for a while but it’s happening. How quickly is the only question.
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Old 13 February 2018, 12:36 AM   #2
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It already happened. Even the marginally popular pieces are now available at Boutique only. I think many brands are going the same route.
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Old 13 February 2018, 12:39 AM   #3
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It already happened. Even the marginally popular pieces are now available at Boutique only. I think many brands are going the same route.
the only problem is AP is too cheap to actually open new boutiques. They are opening lounges instead.... "Lounge Only" doesn't sound as good either.

Many companies hide lack of growth by increasing revenue through increasing profit margins. AP is doing just that. They even announced a 12% increase in profit. The only problem was that was because of higher average selling price per watch (cutting out AD's). They are not growing at all actually and their brand footprint is decreasing.

The US in particular with its vast geographic size needs AD's if AP is going to be successful. IMO they are already not doing that well in the US anyway as they are not very widely known. With only a few boutiques, AP is setting themselves up to fail.
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Old 13 February 2018, 12:52 AM   #4
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the only problem is AP is too cheap to actually open new boutiques. They are opening lounges instead.... "Lounge Only" doesn't sound as good either.
That's only in London. For some weird reason. AP have boutiques in every major "world class" city in the world except London. Maybe Francois is French and he hates the English.
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Old 13 February 2018, 12:52 AM   #5
tyler1980
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That's only in London. For some weird reason. AP have boutiques in every major "world class" city in the world except London. Maybe Francois is French and he hates the English.
are they opening any new boutiques though? The lounge concept is new and London got the first AFAIK

AD's are losing AP and there isnt new AP retail channels replacing them, unless you count e-commerce. Im not spending that kind of money on an internet purchase, its crazy to me. Especially if there is no where to try on a physical watch first.
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Old 13 February 2018, 12:58 AM   #6
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are they opening any new boutiques though? The lounge concept is new and London got the first AFAIK
Don't know and don't really care anymore. There isn't any new AP models that I really want to buy. I dislike AP's direction and what they have done / or not done in SIHH. Even if I do want to buy another AP watch in future, the idea of buying watches only from boutique ( because only they have them ), being told BS from sales staff and how they are really doing me a flavour by putting me on their precious "waitlist" is not appealing to me. And I am saying this as a long time AP fan.
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Old 13 February 2018, 12:59 AM   #7
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No AP boutique in Canada yet, but the inventory up here is absolutely pathetic.

Last week at the AD in Toronto, the only pieces they had were ladies Millenary, ladies quartz RO, 2 42mm ROOs (Navy and RG Brick), a 15450 and that was pretty much it.

I can see some logic to limiting pieces to boutiques, but to just completely cut off a nation of 30 million people just seems ridiculous.
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Old 13 February 2018, 01:03 AM   #8
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No AP boutique in Canada yet, but the inventory up here is absolutely pathetic.

Last week at the AD in Toronto, the only pieces they had were ladies Millenary, ladies quartz RO, 2 42mm ROOs (Navy and RG Brick), a 15450 and that was pretty much it.

I can see some logic to limiting pieces to boutiques, but to just completely cut off a nation of 30 million people just seems ridiculous.
Well, AP expect Canadian customers to fly to New York and buy from boutique, their nearest direct POS. I don't know why any AD would bother selling AP watches anymore.
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Old 13 February 2018, 01:06 AM   #9
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No AP boutique in Canada yet, but the inventory up here is absolutely pathetic.

Last week at the AD in Toronto, the only pieces they had were ladies Millenary, ladies quartz RO, 2 42mm ROOs (Navy and RG Brick), a 15450 and that was pretty much it.

I can see some logic to limiting pieces to boutiques, but to just completely cut off a nation of 30 million people just seems ridiculous.
thats how ive felt for a while. I contemplated using the Paris Boutique to make AP purchases despite living in one of the most major cities in the world that has no real retail options. I came to the conclusion that if i have to leave the country for a watch im not buying it.
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Old 13 February 2018, 01:18 AM   #10
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I have owned (not at once) 10 APs over the years. It truly is my favorite brand and I considered myself a real AP fan boy before the hype began a short time ago. I had a Safari before anyone really knew what an Offshore was. But I do agree with a lot of the consensus here where SIHH was a huge let down this year. Recycling models with new color schemes is not interesting to me personally, nor do I need the new color to show off on social media or in public. That is not why I purchase time pieces. Over the last few years I have thinned out the AP herd to 4 (15400 in steel and rose, diver in black, new navy/orange offshore with blue rubber) and I feel I have reached peak AP and have at least in my mind the 4 that work for me. My AD whom I have a very close personal relationship with, not just professional, has been able to get me and anyone who wants an AP basically anything over the years in extreme haste. Now he barely has anything in his case ever and has a hard time getting anything in the Royal Oak line. I am in agreement that although sales and revenues are up (which by the way I definitely tip my hat to Francois, he has done an impeccable job capitalizing on the trends of today, social media, etc) I do believe in the long run this boutique attitude of AP will not bode well in the long run. I understand the "wait list". I do. I also can appreciate the appeal of the 15202. There is no doubt that it is a WIS watch to the extreme. But to be a long time client of the brand and to hear that I can't get a stainless steel two or three hander in due time really is a major turn off. I hope it turns because I am sure at some point they will do something that I will want to get my hands on (here's looking at you RD#2) but let's face it, who will honestly ever be able to purchase this watch? Not only is it 18 months from even being a possible production model, but I have no doubt that it will be going to the likes of Pras Michel for his next episode of talking watches. It won't be going to the lay person who can truly appreciate the mechanical marvel that it is.

Sorry for the rant. I really hope I didn't offend anyone in anyway. But I did have to say it.
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Old 13 February 2018, 01:49 AM   #11
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Wtf is an AP Lounge?
How is there no presence in London?

The AP popularity is at an all time high especially with pop culture. They are maximizing profits right now, but what company wouldn’t given the opportunity? They produce 40,000 watches which is much easier to control than 1M from Rolex.
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Old 13 February 2018, 01:58 AM   #12
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Wtf is an AP Lounge?
How is there no presence in London?

The AP popularity is at an all time high especially with pop culture. They are maximizing profits right now, but what company wouldn’t given the opportunity? They produce 40,000 watches which is much easier to control than 1M from Rolex.
This is a lounge. Its an appointment only retail outlet in a back alley. It has no watches on display and you cant really browse. Scheduled watch buying. Some people seem to like it I guess.

My AD, one the most important ones in London just demoted AP from their front window display because they get hardly any watches anymore. So i would argue that pop culture popularity depends on brand awareness and brand presence. An unmarked building that no one knows about probably isnt good for that image. Its comes off as cheap and beneath a prestigious brand. I think its a short term money grab more than anything rather than a long term plan for success. I cant see this a sustainable.
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Old 13 February 2018, 01:59 AM   #13
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That's only in London. For some weird reason. AP have boutiques in every major "world class" city in the world except London. Maybe Francois is French and he hates the English.
No boutique in San Francisco, although maybe we are not "world class."
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:01 AM   #14
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That's only in London. For some weird reason. AP have boutiques in every major "world class" city in the world except London. Maybe Francois is French and he hates the English.


How many are AP owned though? Only two real ones in US.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:02 AM   #15
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How many are AP owned though? Only two real ones in US.
good point. I wonder what AP is going to do about them. They are still AD's technically.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:05 AM   #16
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are they opening any new boutiques though? The lounge concept is new and London got the first AFAIK

AD's are losing AP and there isnt new AP retail channels replacing them, unless you count e-commerce. Im not spending that kind of money on an internet purchase, its crazy to me. Especially if there is no where to try on a physical watch first.
They don't need ADs that end up selling slightly above cost to grey dealers and hurting their brand. AP is so coveted and hot right now that the real customers of the brand are OK with paying full price at the boutiques.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:08 AM   #17
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wtf is an ap lounge?
How is there no presence in london?

The ap popularity is at an all time high especially with pop culture. They are maximizing profits right now, but what company wouldn’t given the opportunity? They produce 40,000 watches which is much easier to control than 1m from rolex.
35,000
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:09 AM   #18
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This is a lounge. Its an appointment only retail outlet in a back alley. It has no watches on display and you cant really browse. Scheduled watch buying. Some people seem to like it I guess.

My AD, one the most important ones in London just demoted AP from their front window display because they get hardly any watches anymore. So i would argue that pop culture popularity depends on brand awareness and brand presence. An unmarked building that no one knows about probably isnt good for that image. Its comes off as cheap and beneath a prestigious brand. I think its a short term money grab more than anything rather than a long term plan for success. I cant see this a sustainable.
I was under the impression Wempe have lost AP?!
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:09 AM   #19
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They don't need ADs that end up selling slightly above cost to grey dealers and hurting their brand. AP is so coveted and hot right now that the real customers of the brand are OK with paying full price at the boutiques.
im actually fine with that. Id pay full price and the discounting at some AD's is ridiculous. Some AD's dont discount and give the brand exposure which is good for AP. In London for example i pretty much paid full price for all my AP's. Similar price to a token boutique discount.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:11 AM   #20
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I was under the impression Wempe have lost AP?!
not as of two weeks ago. They just had demoted the window display into the hallway at foot level rather than the prime front window, eye level position. Im headed there this weekend so I'll check. I know they were very frustrated with AP, so it wouldn't surprise me. The window display thing just seemed like an F You to AP.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:19 AM   #21
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Wtf is an AP Lounge?
How is there no presence in London?

The AP popularity is at an all time high especially with pop culture. They are maximizing profits right now, but what company wouldn’t given the opportunity? They produce 40,000 watches which is much easier to control than 1M from Rolex.
My understanding is there will be a new, and quite large, boutique at Harrods. In addition they are going to totally refurbish the 'lounge'. I agree that in my view its not really the right location, but for reasons it looks like it will remain for now at least. The plans for the refurb sound quite exciting though.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:20 AM   #22
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Seems a little ridiculous in a country as large as the US to pull AP AD status. Living in Texas, I'm not flying to Miami, NYC, or LV just to try on a watch I may like.

If this is really happening, then I'm never going to buy another AP again. I was really eyeing a ROC or ROO but I guess not anymore.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:22 AM   #23
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My understanding is there will be a new, and quite large, boutique at Harrods. In addition they are going to totally refurbish the 'lounge'. I agree that in my view its not really the right location, but for reasons it looks like it will remain for now at least. The plans for the refurb sound quite exciting though.
last time i was at harrods, some of the other brands had opened. No AP yet, but i do agree the fine watch room at harrods is going to look awesome. From what i saw even though it wasn't complete.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:23 AM   #24
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not as of two weeks ago. They just had demoted the window display into the hallway at foot level rather than the prime front window, eye level position. Im headed there this weekend so I'll check. I know they were very frustrated with AP, so it wouldn't surprise me. The window display thing just seemed like an F You to AP.
Might that not be purely whilst they sell their remaining stock, then?
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:24 AM   #25
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Seems a little ridiculous in a country as large as the US to pull AP AD status. Living in Texas, I'm not flying to Miami, NYC, or LV just to try on a watch I may like.

If this is really happening, then I'm never going to buy another AP again. I was really eyeing a ROC or ROO but I guess not anymore.
thats the issue i think. AP is banking on the fact you will travel thousands of miles or that a few locations will maintain the same level of sales with local customers. I just dont think it will. Time will tell though
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:25 AM   #26
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last time i was at harrods, some of the other brands had opened. No AP yet, but i do agree the fine watch room at harrods is going to look awesome. From what i saw even though it wasn't complete.
I've not been there for a while, but I believe the deal is AP will be getting 'pole position'.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:25 AM   #27
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35,000
40K, for the past 12 months, at least.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:25 AM   #28
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Might that not be purely whilst they sell their remaining stock, then?
maybe. They didn't mention anything. We had a laugh about the new display, but that was it. Ill ask specifically the status this weekend.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:31 AM   #29
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[QUOTE=tyler1980;8274778]maybe. They didn't mention anything. We had a laugh about the new display, but that was it. Ill ask specifically the status this weekend.[/QUOTE

Sorry, incorrect answer!

Be interesting to know. That will be the reasoning I reckon.
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Old 13 February 2018, 02:36 AM   #30
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Sorry, incorrect answer!

Be interesting to know. That will be the reasoning I reckon.
so you know for sure? If you know ill just ask details as to why.

Whoever terminated the agreement if that has happened, im sure wempe isnt too bothered since they couldn't get any stock anyway for close to a year except the stuff even AP cant sell. They haven't really had AP in a practical sense for a long time.

Now im really curious. Might bump up my visit to wednesday. In any case that leaves 2 department stores and the alley in brooks mews as the only place for AP and maybe Arije for the time being?. I cant imagine WoS at canary wharf will keep AP much longer as they never had anything either. Selfridges is a tough call as how can they terminate them when they just did a special edition for that AD (Bucherer) last year. Which by the way they cant sell and was kind of a flop.
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