Opus Facere - Pam 249

[100thmonkey]

The Panerai PAM249 is a Special Edition Radiomir from 2006, 1936 units of this Special Edition watch were produced. The number of units of course references the year (1936) in which the original model 3646 was produced. The striking "art deco" like California dial shows an unusual combination of Roman and Arabic numerals.



It the most photo shy watch out there and no picture will ever do it the justice that seeing it in the flesh and attaching it to your wrist does. Quote, “When I opened the lid at work it was literally breathtaking” & “The only watch to ever have that effect on initial opening” The best analogy I can give is that sometimes you listen to a song and love it straight away, its easy to hum along to or pick up the lyrics, other songs get played and played and then you suddenly realize it’s a great tune. The first type that hits you instantly can fade and become quite irritating the slow and steady one that crept up on you will be a tune for life……That’s The 249!



The PAM249 has a crystal caseback, unlike the vintage 3646 which has a solid caseback. The crystal case back allows you to see the nicely finished movement in action. The 249 uses the hand-wound mechanical Panerai OP X calibre. The cushion shaped Radiomir case has a diameter of 47mm and it is made out of high grade stainless steel. The blued steel hands have a lot more impact in the flesh and look amazing on the aged dial. A domed plexi like the original which has excellent transparency combined with great resistance to atmospheric agents and acids, the dial maintains the air of mystery of its famous predecessor; it carries no inscription, being anonymous as was the custom with products being tested by the special services. This avoided the risk of the manufacturer being identified and thus becoming vulnerable to possible actions of sabotage or spying if a watch should fall into enemy hands during wartime missions. There is also a second plexi supplied in case it gets damaged. Plexi is of course not as scratch resistant as a crystal but Panerai decided to use a plexi to stay close to the design of the original watch and it does look great.



Case:
In three parts, diameter 47 mm, in steel with polished finish, with removable wire link strap attachments fixed to the case by small screws (Officine Panerai patent). Personalised screw-down winding crown. Plexiglas® crystal 2 mm thick Back:Steel, screw, with sapphire crystal window Water-resistance:To 30 metres
Movement:
Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai calibre OP X, 16 lignes, 17 jewels, 21,600 vibrations/hour, Glucydur®, balance, Nivarox® I balance spring, Incabloc® anti-shock device, “swan neck” regulation of the active length of the balance spring. Power reserve of 56 hours, Côtes de Genève decoration, blued screws



Dial:
Black with luminous triangular index, baton hour markers, Roman and Arabic numerals Strap:In natural hand-sewn leather, the inner part made of hypoallergenic material, personalised steel buckle sewn to the strap



An absolute legend for enthusiasts of Officine Panerai is back again. After 70 years, the model created in 1936 for the 1st Submersible Group has become one of the most fascinating and historically influential of the current Panerai collection. It is a watch which celebrates the birth of wristwatch manufacture under the Panerai name, faithfully recapturing the aesthetic lines of the prototype developed in response to the request made by the Royal Italian Navy in September 1935 for a luminous underwater watch for divers.



It was a turning point for Officine Panerai, which had specialised for many years in the manufacture of an impressive series of instruments with outstanding technical content, covered by the provisions of military secrecy: as well as mechanical calculators for launching torpedoes and self-luminous devices for night gunnery, Officine Panerai made underwater compasses and mechanical depth gauges. These were instruments which had to be of the very highest quality, in that they had to provide maximum reliability and accuracy during missions. The same constructional principles were applied to the watches. The prototype of March 1936 was followed by ten further examples, used in various exercises to test the effectiveness of its water-resistance and the perfect legibility of its time indication under all conditions of use. The most prominent of the innovations introduced by this 1936 model, which brilliantly passed all the tests it underwent, was the use of Radiomir, a special luminous paint consisting of zinc sulphide, radium bromide (the source of the name ‘Radiomir’) and mesothorium. The distinctive feature of the case, cushion-shaped in keeping with the style in vogue in the 1930s, is its large size, the diameter being 47 mm, while the black dial displayed an interesting combination of baton hour markers and Arabic and Roman numerals.



This is one of the most interesting in the range, the only one to carry a ‘Cali’ dial which some people don’t get, but you have to stick with it, look at the balance, ask yourself why it is like it is, appreciate the aged lume and when the penny drops it becomes a wonder. Half the joy of owning one is knowing that you ‘get it’ and so many people don’t! Its an Odd Ball, a weird kid, not like any other, but often those people who we judge so quickly turn out to be true legends! At 47mm it should be big and indeed it is big enough to be noticed but appears smaller than the 232 or on a par with a 45mm Rad as the dial & dome channel the eyes inward.




You see it’s the subtleness of it, the fact that it bears no highly visible marking, the words ‘Panerai’ & ‘Opus Facere’ neatly engraved and tucked away at the lug ends. It doesn’t scream look at my like so many high value watches. If you could have a stereotypically owner of a 249 they would be quietly confident, not need to wear ‘the labels on the outside’ and possess an inner warmth and comfort with the product strapped to ones wrist. I know what I have, I dare to be different, I am but one of 1936 other wearers maximum.



It was released the same year as the 232 and with two outstanding models released at the same time it was slightly over shadowed with many distracted by the 232. Had it been released at any other time it might not have got under the radar. When you see them in pictures they look ‘OK’ you think but you will never forget meeting one in the flesh nor will you miss one at a fleeting glance. Whilst they have grown in value and been steady this last 18 months (largely due to a worldwide recession) this is a piece that will only take one direction.

If you have never met one its time to go dating!!!

[emagni]

Thanks for sharing!

[ocwatching]

awesome write up...thanks...and love the photos...

[TswaneNguni]

Excellent essay and pics !! IMO the 232 and 249 are some of the most significant models from Panerai.SEs that sell above MRSP,but still not at the stratospheric levels of some others.Even at at the secondary market prices,a great buy.

Then there is the 262.The platinum version of the Cali dial.......... One can dream !!!

[nepod90]

Great write up! I learned a little bit more about the history of the watch!

[louie]

great reviews on this babies!

[Trurolexer]

Great watches!!! Thanks for sharing.

[Marrk]

Great write-up!

The 249 caught my eye from the get-go. That's the one I would buy first.

BTW, I don't quite get why a Cali dial would be appropriate for military use, but it sure is beautiful.

Are 249s still available BNIB from Panerai? I'm guessing not.

[100thmonkey]

No More From Panerai, but a few pop up for sale private occasionally

[100thmonkey]

Question is what shade of BigB / Kevin Ammo do I put on it?

[alphamale2012]

Amazing watch.

[A1000]

Great pictures and an amazing looking watch.