ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX
18 July 2019, 02:07 AM | #1 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: May 2014
Real Name: Eric
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,094
|
Full Ceramic - Future or Fad?
Lately I have been really drawn to the perpetual ceramic, black in particular. The aesthetics are just unlike anything else in the collection and I'm really drawn to how unique and low profile it is. I have always liked the looks of some of the aftermarket "blacked out" pieces but would just never do that to a watch and really like that AP did it in house, which was no easy task. This piece seems to be very similar to the 15407 in that it is a "boutique exclusive" and there is really no exact number on production. We see estimates from AP that they are shooting for 100 pieces a year but now with the white version, will they be making 100 of each or will that cut into the total for each color? I actually would have liked them to just make it a limited edition like the ceramic tourbillon. I for one don't mind paying more for something numbered where you know the exact edition size. Anyway, I don't see the piece discussed much here lately and have been offered one so I thought I'd spark up discussion on it again. Might very well be in the collection soon :) |
18 July 2019, 02:32 AM | #2 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 111
|
Ceramic is still a novelty. It's for people in the know. It is still not known enough in mainstream to not be immediately disregarded as "cheap looking" by laypeople. I think AP has the actual manufacture down pretty well, and I don't think it'll go away.
As far as FULL ceramic? I think the bracelet manufacture is a difficult application. Time will tell if popular general use is too stressful on a ceramic bracelet. Being an exceptionally hard material, ceramic is not good in tension. The primary stress on a bracelet IS tension. Who knows, in three years we may see piles of AP bracelets failing from cyclic loading. |
18 July 2019, 02:43 AM | #3 |
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,506
|
Having tried on the black version I can safely tell you it’s not for everyone. It’s so light that it borders on feeling cheap, the bracelet has some sharp edges and it wears so small the original number of links were not adequate for my 7” wrist. That said it’s a real sight to behold and left me questioning if I could sell everything to purchase it.
Legitimately I’d be concerned about dailying the watch as wear and tear wouldn’t be a good idea. Would like a second go around w the correct number of links to reconsider the watch. |
18 July 2019, 02:54 AM | #4 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: May 2014
Real Name: Eric
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,094
|
Quote:
|
|
18 July 2019, 03:28 AM | #5 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 17,622
|
fad no question. they are super cool but lets be honest. IMO its the same category as TT or YG to some extent. They go in and out of popularity. White metal (SS and therefore WG and PT as far as the color) is always in.
__________________
Instagram: tyler.watches current collection: Patek 5164A, Patek 5524G, Rolex Platinum Daytona 116506, Rolex Sea Dweller 43 126600, Rolex GMT II 116710LN, AP 15400ST (silver), Panerai 913, Omega Speedmaster moonwatch, Tudor Black Bay (Harrods Edition) |
18 July 2019, 03:29 AM | #6 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 17,622
|
Quote:
you still cant change the chemistry of ceramic being hard and more brittle though. Its going to shatter vs dent if you drop it on the floor
__________________
Instagram: tyler.watches current collection: Patek 5164A, Patek 5524G, Rolex Platinum Daytona 116506, Rolex Sea Dweller 43 126600, Rolex GMT II 116710LN, AP 15400ST (silver), Panerai 913, Omega Speedmaster moonwatch, Tudor Black Bay (Harrods Edition) |
|
18 July 2019, 03:33 AM | #7 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 111
|
Quote:
I know we are talking about luxury goods here. But, for me, the form has to somewhat follow function. You can't move one step forward in manufacturing with a new material, if you are moving two steps back in performance. Magic is created when art meets technology in a perfect balance. Maybe AP did it here, maybe it will miss the performance mark. Time will tell. |
|
18 July 2019, 03:41 AM | #8 |
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,506
|
I don’t think the cf would hold up to any serious wear. Even brushing it against a wall. It just feels very fragile.
|
18 July 2019, 06:43 AM | #9 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: May 2014
Real Name: Eric
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,094
|
Time will definitely tell, but I can't imagine they would have released it without some serious field testing, scrapes, drops and stress tests of all sorts. Real world stress testing shouldn't be hard at all. Bad part here is with so few around, it's almost impossible to try on to get a feel for it. Anyone in LA with one wanting to meet up for a nice single malt and a cigar on me please PM
|
18 July 2019, 08:10 AM | #10 | |
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 3,990
|
Quote:
No metal is contained within the mix, but there are ceramics other industries use which do. RADO, for the moment, are at the top of the ceramic tree in the watch industry, using the tougher and harder Silicon Nitride in the three LE Hyperchrome Ultralight models produced in 2016. They also introduced cermet (which is possibly what you were thinking of) back in 93-94, iirc, something which AP has used for the bezel on special edition Offshores (Trulli and Schumacher) and a unique titanium openwork piece. |
|
18 July 2019, 08:21 AM | #11 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: USA
Posts: 457
|
It sucks, don't buy it. Put me in contact with AP so I can purchase it -- I'm more than happy to do the public service of taking it out of circulation so nobody else makes the terrible mistake of buying one.
In all seriousness, I think ceramic (and just the use of more exotic materials in general) will become more common. It allows to a really unique look and has the technical advantage of being very scratch-resistant, which is huge given the way APs are finished.
__________________
Instagram: @watchadmiral |
18 July 2019, 09:48 AM | #12 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: United States
Watch: AP, RM
Posts: 605
|
AP needs to step up their materials game.
Since cermet (which is amazing btw), almost a decade ago, there has been nothing new.. I like forged carbon but even panerais carbotech is better Concept watches with a titanium bezel are a disappointment |
18 July 2019, 10:49 AM | #13 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: May 2014
Real Name: Eric
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,094
|
Quote:
|
|
18 July 2019, 12:04 PM | #14 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: USA
Watch: Yes
Posts: 1,479
|
Ill let you guys be the gunniea pigs before i buy one LOLOL
|
19 July 2019, 04:26 AM | #15 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Real Name: Neil
Location: UK
Watch: ing ships roll in
Posts: 59,265
|
Omega use the ZrO2 on their dials and they look great but I think using it on the case and bracelet is something that AP should specialise more in, nearly everyone agrees they look fantastic with the new vertical style finishing, and while Rolex and PP have a march on them over the RO, this material should be used more widely by AP to keep up with them, esp on the simpler models, the Code is not really going to do it.
|
19 July 2019, 04:42 AM | #16 |
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Home
Watch: ROO Coke Speedy
Posts: 70
|
Fad, just look at the Chanel J12.
|
31 July 2019, 06:54 PM | #17 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Stockholm
Watch: 15707CE
Posts: 1,986
|
From the punishment I have given my ceramic diver over the years Im not worried. True it's a little brittle and small chips could be acquired, but those won't be be visible even two feet away.
Regarding manufacturing, there was a video a few years back showing how AP makes there ceramic cases. Will try to find it
__________________
State of the union: 5066A,15400ST,15707CE,116610LN,26470OR and a few other… |
31 July 2019, 07:15 PM | #18 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Montreal
Posts: 23
|
From everything out there st this point fad
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
1 August 2019, 03:42 AM | #19 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Real Name: Roger
Location: ...
Watch: AP/Rolex/PP
Posts: 6,309
|
|
1 August 2019, 04:36 AM | #20 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Europe
Posts: 5,635
|
Full Ceramic - Future or Fad?
It will never become mainstream with the type of finishing AP offer - the bracelet taper also means each segment is unique to the next making production that bit more complex.
It’s a great looking watch and if you have the chance to pick one up, seriously worth considering. Ceramic will never replace stainless steel or PM as the ‘go-to’ for watches, but it’s a fairly amazing, even if a little fragile, alternative.
__________________
“My tastes are simple; I am easily satisfied with the best.” ― Winston S. Churchill |
1 August 2019, 05:03 AM | #21 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Real Name: Neil
Location: UK
Watch: ing ships roll in
Posts: 59,265
|
|
1 August 2019, 05:47 AM | #22 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Montreal
Posts: 23
|
Full Ceramic - Future or Fad?
There’s a discussion on CWC WRT ceramic cases and bezels that might be interesting to some. Personally I’ll stick to the usual metals, precious and not, and avoid any potential disappointment. From what the web has to say though ceramic is going the way of big watches and didn’t turn out to be the super material that it claimed to be.
This said the use of 904L is starting to spread to companies like Ball and others in SE Asia which is interesting to see. I’d like to see the use of hardened steels make its way down to more brands but again time will tell... Ceramic - The Good, Bad and Ugly! Opinions? https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...3&share_type=t Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
1 August 2019, 05:49 AM | #23 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Montreal
Posts: 23
|
Full Ceramic - Future or Fad?
Duplicate
|
1 August 2019, 06:03 AM | #24 |
2024 ROLEX DATE-JUST41 Pledge Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 1,076
|
I don't think it's a fad. At least not for AP.
The way AP does ceramic is on another level compared to anyone else. AP's ceramic watches don't have the cheap look that some other full ceramic watches do. And I think it all comes down to the hand finishing. Most other CE watches are all polished/shiny/uniform. AP's finished product (essentially finishing CE just like it's SS/PM/TI - with a mixed of polished and brushed surfaces) looks so much more premium IMO. vs something like this ...
__________________
Instagram: @wiswrist |
4 August 2019, 11:37 AM | #25 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 1,445
|
Ive had mine for about 8 months now and it's been flawless. Holds up awesome and it's beyond special/low key which is a great mix to have.
|
4 August 2019, 11:41 AM | #26 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: May 2014
Real Name: Eric
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,094
|
|
4 August 2019, 12:36 PM | #27 | |
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Home
Watch: ROO Coke Speedy
Posts: 70
|
Quote:
Just my .02 |
|
4 August 2019, 04:27 PM | #28 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Watch: addiction issues
Posts: 36,875
|
possible fad but who cares. Sick watch worth buying!
__________________
|
4 August 2019, 07:36 PM | #29 | |
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 3,990
|
Quote:
It’s been around since 1999, and you should spend a bit of time reading about it. Not sure why you’re complaining about saving money if you took them up on their offer. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ch...19-introducing |
|
4 August 2019, 07:56 PM | #30 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 307
|
I haven’t had the chance to see the 26579CE in real life, but the watch looks absolutely gorgeous!
Whether it’s a fad or not, only time will tell. Ceramic may not be as popular as a few years back when every single fashionable woman was wearing a J12, but as mentioned earlier they are still going strong. If you go places like Marbella this summer, you’ll see that they remain very popular. The same way, remember what people were saying about the strap of the Aquanaut ten years ago... now everybody would kill to get one! Anyway, if you purchase one, I can’t wait to read your review! |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|
*Banners
Of The Month*
This space is provided to horological resources.