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Old 12 August 2017, 01:30 AM   #1
Brucie D
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Reviewed: Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue

Hi everyone, I hope you have a chance to enjoy my latest video review on this stunning Milgauss:

https://youtu.be/ft6MW1N5j-M

And my written review can be found below:

Rolex Milgauss Z Blue (116400GV) Review – The Rebel Rolex

There are super crazy Rolex models out there if you look hard enough. Bejeweled GMT Masters, leopard print Daytonas, and S&M Datejusts but these models are so expensive and rare that they do not really skew our view of Rolex as a manufacturer of conservative, businesslike timepieces.

The Rolex Milgauss aims to offer a moment of madness for watch wearers. For years known as the scientist’s watch due to its inherent ability to withstand strong magnetic forces which would be beneficial to absolutely everyone working at CERN and absolutely no one else (but hey, when was the last time you took your Submariner to 300m below sea level?). I’m not going to delve into too many technical details but the internal build is as impressive as any professional watch from this company. The 3131 movement is a familiar workhorse replete with the trademark Parachrom blu hairspring and that strong magnetic shield which lends the Milgauss its purpose in life.

Ok so it is another over-engineered tool watch and status symbol right?

Don’t be so quick to jump to that conclusion friends. The Milgauss blazes its own trail in the Rolex family especially with this latest Z Blue model. Back in early 2014 while the top management was off skiing in the alps, some rogue Rolex design team came up with the idea that you can indeed combine blue, green and orange(!) together in one watch and not end up with the equivalent of SpongeBob Squarepants on your wrist. This is not your father’s black Submariner.

Taking a closer look, the Milgauss first presents a front of Rolex tradition with a tasteful 40mm case size as well as beautiful tapered lugs that are more elegant than those found on certain other contemporary Rolexes. The classic Oyster bracelet with polished center links is present and perfectly integrated. In fact, at first glance one may be forgiven for making the mistake of comparing it with the Datejust II. The Milgauss sets itself apart from the more traditional Datejust by means of its larger case back which is almost Sea-Dweller-like in profile and boldly emblazoned with Rolex script and four Rolex coronets, very untraditional indeed. A common criticism of the large Datejust is that its twinlock winding crown is too small relative to the size of the 41mm case. This is not a problem with the Milgauss which boasts a wider, beefier crown to balance out the 40mm case much more effectively.

Checking out the Milgauss from an offset profile angle with good lighting is a perfect way to witness the pop of the green sapphire crystal. When viewed head on, the crystal tones down the sunburst blue dial a little, but from the side is where the magical green ring comes into its own and lends the watch one of its main rebellious cues. The crystal is ever so slightly raised above the profile of the polished bezel in a manner different from other Rolexes. It appears cut at the exact same slope as the bezel itself almost like the base two layers of a stepped pyramid. I can only speculate (myself not being a scientist at CERN) that this lends to the green ring of light effect but it certainly is one of the precision visual discoveries of the watch and highly technical in nature.

Slipping deeper into the details, as the watch is turned in the direct light, the rays reflect in a propeller motion glinting off countless perfect radial striations in the blue dial with no date and cyclops lens to interrupt the show. The show is stolen outright however, by the intense orange second hand, boldly done in the sharp and jagged shape of a lightning bolt. Not only is the lightning hand unexpected on a serious luxury timepiece but it dominates the dial by being extremely long, striking to the very outer edge of the dial and jutting out at its base as well. It takes a while to get used to seeing the tool of Zeus perform the Rolex sweep around the face. The result is mesmerizing and reinforces why this is a time-only device, as a date window would serve only to interrupt the action.

At first, my opinion was that the minute and hour hands were too small relative to the size of the watch. When I compared them to the identical hands on the Datejust II I realized they appeared diminutive only because of the visual impact the lightning bolt hand has on the rest of the watch. This characteristic will be the defining factor for most in the decision to acquire a Milgauss. It is either love at first sight or too overwhelming to justify for the conservative buyer.

So clearly the Milgauss does a great job of distinguishing itself from the Datejust family. What about its position in the professional line? When handled in conjunction with my GMT Master II, both watches have relatively the same weight and solid feel. With its deep case back, the Milgauss rivals the GMT for height as well as overall dimensions yet it manages to be much more streamlined in appearance without losing the tank-like tangibility of the other professional models. In the Rolex schoolyard the Milgauss is the quiet, quirky but handsome bespectacled kid off in the corner plotting to be the next Nobel prize winner.

A great Rolex reference can be defined as being able to perpetuate its desirability over the span of decades. Vintage Milgauss watches are becoming more and more coveted and valuable. Perhaps one day we will look back and say “Remember that blue, green and orange version? Wow I wish I had picked up one of those when I had the chance.” Detractors could point out the Milgauss lacks functionality without a day, date or other gizmos and it will always enjoy a touch more scarcity because buyers tend to skew towards more traditional Rolexes. It is important to point out that the Milgauss has a strong competitor in the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra which can also be specified in bright color schemes and is even backed by a fictional spy (if that matters to you). It benefits from the added date functionality as well as an extra 50m of water resistance over the Milgauss.

A rogue Rolex in the stainless steel lineup, the Milgauss is high quality and beautifully made with a small measure of madness thrown in. There are more functional watches at this price point but none with more personality. If the Z Blue is too much visual impact, Rolex offers white and black dials to house the lightning bolt as well.

The Milgauss is bold acquisition for the discerning buyer who doesn’t completely hide their extroverted side even at the office but doesn’t want to flash the brand around.

About the only thing I would change would be to get rid of the engraved Rolex logos on the case back which are unnecessary and out of place given the already “un-Rolex” nature of the watch. Otherwise the Milgauss is very well balanced, has great proportions and overall it seems to fit both my casual and business lives very effectively.

Rolex Milgauss Z Blue Specifications

Reference: 116400GV
Case: Oyster, 40mm, 904L Stainless Steel
Bezel: Fixed polished steel
Dial: Blue sunburst effect w/ white gold hour and minute hands & indicies with Chromalite luminescence, Lightning bolt seconds hand in orange
Movement: Perpetual, mechanical self-winding, Rolex 3131 calibre COSC certified
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire with green tint
Waterproofness: Waterproof to 100m (330ft)
Function: Time, hours, minutes, seconds
Canadian Price: Approximately $9,000



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Old 12 August 2017, 06:06 AM   #2
GoPackGo!
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Very well said. I really enjoy wearing and looking at mine too. Love how the outer edge of the crystal can go from a lime green to an emerald green in the right lighting.
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Old 12 August 2017, 06:48 AM   #3
Brucie D
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Originally Posted by GoPackGo! View Post
Very well said. I really enjoy wearing and looking at mine too. Love how the outer edge of the crystal can go from a lime green to an emerald green in the right lighting.


Excellent! My colour blindness doesn't let me see the green transition but I will take your word for it.


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Old 13 August 2017, 08:30 AM   #4
Roly25
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Great review. Makes me love mine even more!

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Old 14 August 2017, 08:13 PM   #5
Psmith
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Nicely done
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Old 15 August 2017, 10:59 PM   #6
Brucie D
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Nicely done


Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers.


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