Help authenticating a 16013 Buckley dial

[Steve81]

Hi all, I have a pending deal on this piece and just trying to get opinions from the experts.

The seller is a watch and jewelry broker, all good vibes so far on that front.

But Overall the Watch looks to be in really great condition for 1983, so the “too goo to be true” factor is what has registered on my concern meter.

What do you all think?

[TuRo]

Just going out.....but check all the wording spacings and layouts with this albeit scruffy bi colour Buckley - I'll check in again tonight.

Rolex Datejust (Submodel)
£1,352
https://chrono24.app/rolex/rare-orig...GB&SETCURR=GBP

[KY..]

Personally I do not see anything that looks bad or out of place as the watch is a nice looking example to me.
I definitely like how factory blue buckley gold numbers tend to look embroidered on the dial.

[TuRo]

Agree with KY looks fine, and about the texture on numerals ✓

The hand applied indices 'Buckley' was truly unloved and about 20% less secondhand than a baton dial in 90s before John Buckley did his piece to praise it (funnily enough my pal Chris who loves 5 digit sports pieces, when I explained the history of the dial/watch to him said " that's all very well, but it looks like a school clock".....utter philistine!

I'd say they are now about 20-25% more than a baton dial, but not much more. I say that because some dealers are asking truly daft 'boiler gauge dial' type prices e.g. £8-10k or more, but many dealers/sellers are at the proper rate (Circa half of that!)

They're getting rarer so I suspect the differential will increase over time.


Bicolour go for about 80% of the cost of a steel/black hand (so about the same ratio of a black/blue 16613 to a 16610 and a black non nipple 16713 to 16700.

Looks nice though, good lume plots, polished case, non-stetched Jubillee and what look like US punched papers which will add about 15-20% £1000-1500 to value too for this model.

[77T]

It has a correct appearance.

On the dial - seems fine.

On the bracelet - well…
If you’ve handled it yourself (which if not, I’d do so before closing the deal) then you know how much the Jubilee has stretched over the years. Look for even spacing between the links. Unevenness will let you know a restoration is in your near future.

You didn’t ask about value - and since TRF isn’t here as a value merchant - I won’t dive into that.

If the provenance with papers seems correct then I’d buy it. I’m guessing you’re dealing with Nick? If so, he vets his watches well.


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[Steve81]

Originally Posted by 77T

It has a correct appearance.

On the dial - seems fine.

On the bracelet - well…
If you’ve handled it yourself (which if not, I’d do so before closing the deal) then you know how much the Jubilee has stretched over the years. Look for even spacing between the links. Unevenness will let you know a restoration is in your near future.

You didn’t ask about value - and since TRF isn’t here as a value merchant - I won’t dive into that.

If the provenance with papers seems correct then I’d buy it. I’m guessing you’re dealing with Nick? If so, he vets his watches well.


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Thank you all for your help! I truly appreciate it.

I didn’t ask about value but I would appreciate an opinion if you have one to offer.

Also, I have not handled the watch yet but I am planning on meeting in person. Here is a photo of the bracelet.

[Steve81]

Duplicate post

[TuRo]

Originally Posted by Steve81

Thank you all for your help! I truly appreciate it.

I didn’t ask about value but I would appreciate an opinion if you have one to offer.

Also, I have not handled the watch yet but I am planning on meeting in person. Here is a photo of the bracelet.

Using a digitital protractor from middle gold link at watch end to middle gold link at the clasp its a reading of 16 -17 Degrees, which is very low stretch for a 40 year old soft gold/steel Jubilee. I hope that helps, be interested what you think of it in person (sic) and whether the slight imperfection are on the plexi rather than the dial - worth checking the clasp code too, as if original would be around the F,G.H,I or J area.

[Boopie]

Looks great!

[Steve81]

Here’s a couple more photos: serial number and movement. Anybody see anything here that looks out of place or like I shouldn’t move forward?