Fitting the bracelet

[El Cascarrabias]

When buying from a trusted seller how difficult is it to size the bracelet yourself?

This would be a 216750.

Thanks!

[handsfull]

With the proper driver (size and cut) and patience - easy.

You want a hollow ground screwdriver at 1.6mm

This one is particularly nice for the $....... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-6-mm-Jumbo...item27eefbefa5

[iclick]

If you mean minor sizing at the clasp, for the first four decades I always used a paperclip for all spring bars--case and clasp, which worked fine--but since that time have acquired a Bergeon 6767F tool for the job. I didn't need it for this purpose, but the tool has a forked spring-bar tip on one end and the straight tip for this purpose on the other. I needed the former for the Daytona that has no outer spring-bar holes in the case.

OTOH if you want to add or subtract links, ideally you'll need a 1.6mm cut-out screwdriver. I bought mine on Ebay and it works fine, but during my unenlightened paperclip period I used a regular jewelers screwdriver for this task. It worked okay until I became more conscious of keeping things unscratched and pristine, as the tapered tip may damage the screw from the imperfect fit or scratch surrounding metal surfaces should it slip out in use.

[rmfnla]

Bracelet screws are secured with thread locking compund like Loc Tite; use heat (a hair dryer will work fine) to free them up and be sure to use fresh comopund upon reassembly.

(Hint: apply to the threaded hole, not the screw itself.)

It might take a few adjustments until you get it exactly the way you want it so hold off on the compound until you are sure it is right...

[Mfrankel2]

Originally Posted by rmfnla

Bracelet screws are secured with thread locking compund like Loc Tite; use heat (a hair dryer will work fine) to free them up and be sure to use fresh comopund upon reassembly.

(Hint: apply to the threaded hole, not the screw itself.)

It might take a few adjustments until you get it exactly the way you want it so hold off on the compound until you are sure it is right...

x2 this. Use the purple loctite as it's "less permanent" than the red. Heating the links beforehand also helps get out the screws without using much force (loosens the previously applied loctite).

[Sirschwag]

I purchased Loctite 222 on Amazon, curious to see if it bonds as well as what was applied at the factory...trying some out on spare links now..

[Adam from Oz]

Originally Posted by Sirschwag

I purchased Loctite 222 on Amazon, curious to see if it bonds as well as what was applied at the factory...trying some out on spare links now..

Please advise on your experimentation!

Also, does anyone have advise on heating the link with a hairdryer before attempting to remove the screws? How hot are we talking here?

[wristwatches]

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[rmfnla]

Originally Posted by handsfull

With the proper driver (size and cut) and patience - easy.

You want a hollow ground screwdriver at 1.6mm

This one is particularly nice for the $....... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-6-mm-Jumbo...item27eefbefa5

Chinese-made tools make me nervous; their steels are notorious for inconsistent quality, and a broken or bent screwdriver blade is a great way to gouge a band...

Originally Posted by Adam from Oz

Please advise on your experimentation!

Also, does anyone have advise on heating the link with a hairdryer before attempting to remove the screws? How hot are we talking here?

Just get it hot to the touch and don't worry, a hair dryer will not generate enough heat to damage your band in any way...

[Friar]

Originally Posted by Adam from Oz

Please advise on your experimentation!

Also, does anyone have advise on heating the link with a hairdryer before attempting to remove the screws? How hot are we talking here?

I've used running hot tap water to warm the appropriate links--so probably not terribly hot with a dryer.

[Adam from Oz]

Originally Posted by rmfnla

Just get it hot to the touch and don't worry, a hair dryer will not generate enough heat to damage your band in any way...

I wasn't worried about melting the band, it was my hands I was worried about!!

I've got to move a half link from one side to the other to centre the clasp hinge on my SubC and have never attempted it before.

[sdiver68]

I always apply loctite to the screw not the hole. A very thin layer applied all the way around from the bottom to about 1/3 of the threads. You can use light tack tape to help protect bare metal from scratches.

[RollieVerde]

Loctite also works great on eyeglass screws, if you have a pair that seems to loosen frequently. It's another good reason to have some on hand.

[rmfnla]

Originally Posted by Adam from Oz

I wasn't worried about melting the band, it was my hands I was worried about!!
I've got to move a half link from one side to the other to centre the clasp hinge on my SubC and have never attempted it before.

If it's hot to the touch you are good; no need to cook it (or burn yourself!)...

[Sirschwag]

Originally Posted by Adam from Oz

Please advise on your experimentation!

Also, does anyone have advise on heating the link with a hairdryer before attempting to remove the screws? How hot are we talking here?

Update - the Loctite 222 from Amazon worked perfectly., it provided the same resistance from removing the screw that my brand new Explorer links had from the factory! I didn't need to heat the link., just used the right-sized screwdriver and it came off easily... This one is a good deal for the price and real close to OEM..
http://www.panatime.com/scexoemcocue.html

Originally Posted by sdiver68

I always apply loctite to the screw not the hole. A very thin layer applied all the way around from the bottom to about 1/3 of the threads. You can use light tack tape to help protect bare metal from scratches.

Note that it should only be applied to the hole, not the screw (if you apply it to the screw it will get inbetween the link and possibly bind up)! I just applied a tiny bit to the end of a toothpick and got a couple tiny drops in the hole is all that's needed...I also cleaned up any excess over the inside hole before attaching and the outside hole once it was screwed in...

[Adam from Oz]

I finally adjusted the bracelet on my SubC using the hints and tips here. I taped around the screw heads roughly with some blue masking tape in case the screwdriver popped out but I need not have done this: over cautious with my Rolex isn't a bad thing, is it??!

I held the bracelet over gentle steam from the kettle for about 10 seconds to heat it up a little bit and used a hollow/slotted screwdriver that I got from eBay to ease out the screws, which came out with a little constant force, not too much, just a steady twist.

Swapped my half link over and added a tiny amount of loctite 222 (the purple stuff in a red bottle) to the hole and retightened the screws until they started to grab, and eased off.

My watch sits so much better on my wrist now, so I'm really glad I found this, and other threads (no pun intended), on the forums to enable me to do it myself as it's a 3.5 hour drive to my closest AD.

As others have said, I throughly recommend a hollowed/slotted screwdriver for the job, it fits in the screw head perfectly and didn't jump out at all.

Thanks all.