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Old 23 February 2021, 01:29 AM   #1
Seb85Swe
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First luxury timepiece

Hey everyone,

Recent business success and pushing my investable capital past my first million has made me reach an initial goal of mine, and as a result, i'm looking to do something i planned for myself i would do upon reaching this goal - buying my first (entry-level) luxury timepiece.

Up until now, i've mostly been wearing an assortment of digital or simple, cheaper watches. I never went for the mid-range cheaper entry models, like Tag Heurer $1000 watches, and i always told myself when i buy my first real timepiece, i want it to be something luxury, even entry-level.

My current piece is a an Apple Watch. However, as a transitional moment with my recent success, i'd like to change this. I'm 35 years old, and i'm male.

Now, it won't be some $25-$50k piece. I'd love to get a Vacheron Constantin, but i'm not there yet (maybe in 10-15 years).

Starting out, i'm looking to spend between $3000-$10000 in terms of my budget. I've been doing a bit of research for about a week or so at this point, and here's what i have so far.

I want for the watch to be:

* Timeless - seems to be an easy one, any quality mechanical timepiece i've seen has a certain air of timelessness about it.

* Beauty - an obvious one, though this one is of course subjective.

* Flexibility in terms of dress code. I don't want a watch that's specifically, and obviously "only" a dress watch, but something that works in many situations. I work both in a suit, and sometimes in more casual clothing.

* Appreciation or value stability. As an investor, i'm looking for somethigng that, if it doesn't appreciate, at the very least holds a stable value over time.

* In-house movement. A big question, i know, and i don't believe ETA movements are in any way poor - but i do like the concept of a company having an in-house movement, even if this increases servicing costs and even if this is "partial" in-house such as some Omega movements.

* Collectability - a difficult, and perhaps the most difficult one. Given that i'm starting out, i would love for the watch to be something of a limited edition, if this can be combined with my budget and with the other variables. I've found one like this, though it seems to require me going pre-owned.

* Decent size. I'm a tall guy at 194 cm, so i want a sizeable piece. Depending on the watch of course, but 40-42mm seems about right to me, at least from my initial "tries".

* Metal band/strap. I like the look of this more, though i can flex a bit on this for the right piece.

Here are some options i've gathered.

* Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional (i love the look of this face, gorgeous piece)
* Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Blue (The color and the watch is amazing)
* Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 (Classic, and every options list least does need a Rolex, i feel)
* Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Grand Seiko SBGH281 (The collectible option, though again, i've only been able to find pre-owned here)
* Panerai Contemporary Luminor GMT Black Ø44 mm (Love the look of the Panerais. Not a "classic" luxury watch maker, but damn nice pieces)

I'm here because as i said, i'm just starting out - so i need opinions from people who know a lot more than me. How these pieces are percieved internationally (because perception is a part of it for me, even if i'm buying it for myself), how these brands and pieces are considered in the watch community. Are there pieces, even vintage or pre-owned ones, that i could get for my bugdet that would fulfil my needs and be excellent watches?

Let me know.

Thank you in advance.
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Old 23 February 2021, 11:11 AM   #2
WatchFan79
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Welcome to the world of watch collecting! I’m 41 picked up the bug for watches from my father and I have a wide range of watches in my collection; Tag, Hamilton, Seiko, Omega, Rolex etc... I completely agree on looking at the watches as an investment but I can’t stress enough that you cannot let the ‘investment’ side of buying watches to overcome buying a watch that you love and will wear, maintain and most of all enjoy. Your list of watches has a lot of great options. Based on your description of what you’re looking for, your age and desire to wear the watch in multiple dress settings the Omega’s are good options. I personally like the Speedmaster best from your list, it meets your needs and is a great timepiece. But like I said, buy the watch that you look at and feel like you can’t live without it and thats the one to buy! You have done good research and found watches that you are obviously drawn to. Good luck and welcome to the world of watch collecting...because you can’t have just one. Good luck and post again once you pull the trigger on one of these.
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Old 23 February 2021, 05:42 PM   #3
Seb85Swe
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Welcome to the world of watch collecting! I’m 41 picked up the bug for watches from my father and I have a wide range of watches in my collection; Tag, Hamilton, Seiko, Omega, Rolex etc... I completely agree on looking at the watches as an investment but I can’t stress enough that you cannot let the ‘investment’ side of buying watches to overcome buying a watch that you love and will wear, maintain and most of all enjoy. Your list of watches has a lot of great options. Based on your description of what you’re looking for, your age and desire to wear the watch in multiple dress settings the Omega’s are good options. I personally like the Speedmaster best from your list, it meets your needs and is a great timepiece. But like I said, buy the watch that you look at and feel like you can’t live without it and thats the one to buy! You have done good research and found watches that you are obviously drawn to. Good luck and welcome to the world of watch collecting...because you can’t have just one. Good luck and post again once you pull the trigger on one of these.
Thanks for your response :). I really love the Omega as well.
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Old 24 February 2021, 12:53 AM   #4
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There are SO many watches that meet all your criteria it's just going to come down to personal preference.

All the ones you mentioned are great. I would add you might want to explore JLC's and Glashutte Original's lineups both great watches that check a lot of your boxes.
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Old 24 February 2021, 01:37 AM   #5
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I would second what has been said. Omegas are a great entry into the “luxury” watch market, I’m a big fan of Glashutte and JLC (and some IWC). I understand the desire to have something a bit more limited, but I think at that price point it’ll be tough to find something truly “unique/limited”. The omega snoopy comes to mind, but so hard to get one (when I looked was told they weren’t even adding people to their waiting list). So I mostly think you’ll either be stuck on a long waiting list (if you can get on one) or end up with something “limited” from a company that runs several limited editions a year so they really aren’t a great value.
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Old 24 February 2021, 03:16 AM   #6
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I would go for Rolex Sub date at the boutique/AD, it might have to wait for sometime but it's obtainable. Sub date can go with everything and retain the value too.
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Old 24 February 2021, 03:54 AM   #7
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Your post and short list of watches shows that you've done your research and have good taste to boot, you are on the right track.

As another commenter has noted, collectability may be difficult in this range. I see you may be interested in Grand Seiko. If you could find a SBGJ227 "Peacock" at an acceptable price to you, I reckon that would not be a bad way to go. See if the hi-beat GMT line is attractive to you. I'll go over it with some of your bullet points.

-Timeless: who knows, time will tell.
-Beauty: without a doubt.
-Flexibility: very versatile steel sports watch with elements of high "zaratsu" polish on the 44GS so it wouldn't look too out of place in a more formal setting. Also, its 2021, the dress watch rules are dead.
-Value stability: It looks like the price is running away, at least for now. GS LEs seem to be on the up and up recently (also see SBGA387).
-In-house: GS' own hi-beat gmt.
-Collectability: Collectible, given that the dial is so unique and the limited edition run.
-Decent size: 40mm diameter but with a hefty 14mm thickness, bad for my wrists but potentially fine on big ones.

If you're not able to find one within price range, I think the SBGJ235/SBGJ203 are also good options, less collectability and perhaps less unique of a dial but no less beautiful and also much cheaper as they are not exactly limited edition. Or, the aforementioned SBGA387 if within price range (getting harder and harder).

Also a fan of the omegas you've listed, as well as a Rolex sub if you can get your hands on one. If its between the submariner and the peacock for the same price however, peacock no hesitation.
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Old 24 February 2021, 04:12 AM   #8
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From your list, the new Moonwatch is pretty hard to beat. Everybody loves a Speedie, and the new update is a home run. That said, the new Grand Seiko SLGH005 - an LE hi-beat with 80 hour power reserve and a white texture dial - is just drool-worthy. I'd be hard-pressed to choose.



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Old 24 February 2021, 04:33 AM   #9
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Welcome to TRF!

You have picked out a few very nice pieces. I think the Rolex OP and the Omega are the best of the group you have listed especially since you want it to old value well. My favorite is definitely the Rolex OP.

I'll throw out 3 others to maybe consider that I think also fit your criteria. The Cartier Santos, the Girard Perregaux Laureato and the Grand Seiko Snowflake.

Try to try on as many as you can. I know that could be difficult with the Rolex OP but maybe there is someone close by that you could try on theirs.
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Old 24 February 2021, 06:40 AM   #10
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Congrats on reaching your career milestone. Your list of potential watches is strong. Out of them the Speedy or the Rolex OP are the most classic/timeless, and would be “safe” picks. Indeed, although I find beauty and value in many different brands, at the level that you are entering (mid-tier luxury), Rolex is really hard to beat (Omega takes second, and admirably so). I would recommend also considering the Rolex Datejust (choose your ideal configuration) or the Explorer as well. Best wishes
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Old 24 February 2021, 08:07 AM   #11
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Isn’t it wonderful to achieve a goal?
Appreciation is hard to predict into the future but my take on it is, very few watches go up if their in constant production. A limited edition has more likelihood but not assured.
I’d recommend you look at the not yet released Grand Seiko SLGA007, spring drive, limited edition at around $9600.


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Old 24 February 2021, 09:10 AM   #12
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Congratulations on your goal.

I’ll throw out a few ideas out there for you. Which should tick some of the boxes.

Omega Aqua Tera 150 - Great combinations to choose from, white dial, grey dial etc. Bracelet or rubber strap. Dressy enough to work with a shirt and blazer or out by the pool on holiday. Only downside you could say it isnt a Rolex.

Rolex DateJust - The classic Rolex watch in my opinion. Does everything, suit to the pool. Can go for more dressy with the fluted bezel and jubilee or tone it down, with an oyster. Multiple dial colours and combinations to choose from.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual - Same as above, more fun with the dial variations and brushed oyster bracelet.

Rolex Submariner - Might seem as a basic bitch watch to start off a collection but you cant got wrong with it. As many on the forum will let you know.

Grand Seiko - If you a value investor this watch is for you. Finishing is second to none up there with Patek, VC, AP. For 1/3 of the price. Beautiful dials, stunning engineering. Lots of models as you know, bracelet. Would work well in the meeting, then down by the pool.
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Old 24 February 2021, 09:15 AM   #13
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Omega Speedmaster Professional. You can wear this the rest of your life if you want but if you buy another few watches and end up with a collection this will always fit in your collection. And it's not so precious that you have to worry about beating it up, that's what it was made for.
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Old 24 February 2021, 10:15 AM   #14
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Given you criteria of something limited, I'd suggest the CK2998 (either blue or black versions). Panda dial speedmaster limited to 2998 pieces. You'll pay over msrp, but it is within your budget and should not decrease in value.
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Old 24 February 2021, 11:38 AM   #15
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Congratulations on your achievement. You've done a lot of research and have some good criteria as well as a good list of possibilities. It seems you are looking for a sport or everyday watch. From your list, I would suggest the Omega Speedmaster because it is iconic and classic, is good value, is fairly versatile (just don't get it near water), and it should retain its value somewhat, especially if you buy right.
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Old 24 February 2021, 12:36 PM   #16
Phooi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seb85Swe View Post
Hey everyone,

Recent business success and pushing my investable capital past my first million has made me reach an initial goal of mine, and as a result, i'm looking to do something i planned for myself i would do upon reaching this goal - buying my first (entry-level) luxury timepiece.

Up until now, i've mostly been wearing an assortment of digital or simple, cheaper watches. I never went for the mid-range cheaper entry models, like Tag Heurer $1000 watches, and i always told myself when i buy my first real timepiece, i want it to be something luxury, even entry-level.

My current piece is a an Apple Watch. However, as a transitional moment with my recent success, i'd like to change this. I'm 35 years old, and i'm male.

Now, it won't be some $25-$50k piece. I'd love to get a Vacheron Constantin, but i'm not there yet (maybe in 10-15 years).

Starting out, i'm looking to spend between $3000-$10000 in terms of my budget. I've been doing a bit of research for about a week or so at this point, and here's what i have so far.

I want for the watch to be:

* Timeless - seems to be an easy one, any quality mechanical timepiece i've seen has a certain air of timelessness about it.

* Beauty - an obvious one, though this one is of course subjective.

* Flexibility in terms of dress code. I don't want a watch that's specifically, and obviously "only" a dress watch, but something that works in many situations. I work both in a suit, and sometimes in more casual clothing.

* Appreciation or value stability. As an investor, i'm looking for somethigng that, if it doesn't appreciate, at the very least holds a stable value over time.

* In-house movement. A big question, i know, and i don't believe ETA movements are in any way poor - but i do like the concept of a company having an in-house movement, even if this increases servicing costs and even if this is "partial" in-house such as some Omega movements.

* Collectability - a difficult, and perhaps the most difficult one. Given that i'm starting out, i would love for the watch to be something of a limited edition, if this can be combined with my budget and with the other variables. I've found one like this, though it seems to require me going pre-owned.

* Decent size. I'm a tall guy at 194 cm, so i want a sizeable piece. Depending on the watch of course, but 40-42mm seems about right to me, at least from my initial "tries".

* Metal band/strap. I like the look of this more, though i can flex a bit on this for the right piece.

Here are some options i've gathered.

* Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional (i love the look of this face, gorgeous piece)
* Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Blue (The color and the watch is amazing)
* Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 (Classic, and every options list least does need a Rolex, i feel)
* Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Grand Seiko SBGH281 (The collectible option, though again, i've only been able to find pre-owned here)
* Panerai Contemporary Luminor GMT Black Ø44 mm (Love the look of the Panerais. Not a "classic" luxury watch maker, but damn nice pieces)

I'm here because as i said, i'm just starting out - so i need opinions from people who know a lot more than me. How these pieces are percieved internationally (because perception is a part of it for me, even if i'm buying it for myself), how these brands and pieces are considered in the watch community. Are there pieces, even vintage or pre-owned ones, that i could get for my bugdet that would fulfil my needs and be excellent watches?

Let me know.

Thank you in advance.
Based on your criteria, only the Rolex would apply. If you remove the criteria around investment, retaining value then any of the others would work. Personally, I’d go with the speedmaster.
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Old 24 February 2021, 12:57 PM   #17
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Welcome to the forum
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Old 24 February 2021, 11:47 PM   #18
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I’d recommend starting with a Rolex OP41 in black, blue, silver. That’s an affordable way to try out Rolex and have something that’ll last forever with good value and you can wear it in any situation. After that explore other things. If your budget is higher than $6,000 I’d recommend the Datejust in whatever color and combination you prefer. They’re between $9,000-$15,000 or so. And I recommend only buying new from
An authorized dealer. These models won’t take too long to acquire.
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Old 25 February 2021, 12:41 AM   #19
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DJ sub or OP41
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Old 25 February 2021, 01:21 AM   #20
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Congrats on your achievement!

I would go with either DateJust or Moonwatch
Both can be dressed up and down, timeless design and history.
Take out the investment part on your research and you will enjoy more :)

The third one at this point would be of course the Sub

All 3 in your price range, only 2 available in a short time

Good luck and welcome
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Old 25 February 2021, 02:27 AM   #21
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Id get a Hesalite Moonwatch for your budget. They look amazing in person. If you want a little more bling go sapphire
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Old 25 February 2021, 07:28 AM   #22
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From your list, the new Moonwatch is pretty hard to beat. Everybody loves a Speedie, and the new update is a home run. That said, the new Grand Seiko SLGH005 - an LE hi-beat with 80 hour power reserve and a white texture dial - is just drool-worthy. I'd be hard-pressed to choose.
I agree with the SLGH005; is my favorite watch to hit the market in the last year. However, everything I’ve read has indicated that it’s a production model and not an LE. At $9,100 I don’t see it retaining its MSRP on the secondary. Not something I look for but seems to be a consideration for the OP. If I’m wrong and it is LE, I apologize and, I better come up with a different timeline for trying to get one.

From HODINKEE:
“the SLGH005 "White Birch," in steel, with a birch-bark pattern dial and a 44GS-style case. This is a regular production model, not a limited edition, priced at $9,100.”
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Old 25 February 2021, 09:39 AM   #23
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Thanks for the clarification - seems I got it wrong and it’s not an LE. Doesn’t alter how fundamentally impressive the watch is, and wouldn’t stop me getting one.

To be honest, giving it a bit of thought, I’d add the OP in my previous list. The reasons I’m a bit uncomfortable with it (it’s a Rolex, with everything that comes with it) are also its strengths, especially as an only watch.

It’s a very strong field and as long as you don’t go Panerai (too faddy a brand), you can’t really do wrong. If you can, try them on. I’m pretty sure the choice will be obvious once you have them on your wrist.
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Old 25 February 2021, 11:04 AM   #24
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Doesn’t alter how fundamentally impressive the watch is, and wouldn’t stop me getting one.
Absolutely
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Old 25 February 2021, 03:14 PM   #25
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Welcome to the Forum! Congratulations on your investment milestone and I wish you continued success! I’m going to steer you towards Rolex for your first. For an all-arounder, you can’t beat the Datejust. I’d recommend the DJ 41 SS with smooth bezel and oyster bracelet. Sporty to dressy, fits any occasion with lots of dial choices and it’s a Rolex you can actually get your hands on. You’ll most likely still have a wait, but not too long. You can always pickup the Speedy later and I recommend you do so. I really like this one for a first luxury watch.


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Old 26 February 2021, 12:26 AM   #26
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I would pick the classic Omega Speedmaster Moon with sapphire crystals front and back. To me, the watch projects a bit more of humbleness and sophistication than a DJ! I know I’ll get flamed for saying this... :-))
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Old 26 February 2021, 12:40 AM   #27
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Welcome to the Forum! Congratulations on your investment milestone and I wish you continued success! I’m going to steer you towards Rolex for your first. For an all-arounder, you can’t beat the Datejust. I’d recommend the DJ 41 SS with smooth bezel and oyster bracelet. Sporty to dressy, fits any occasion with lots of dial choices and it’s a Rolex you can actually get your hands on. You’ll most likely still have a wait, but not too long. You can always pickup the Speedy later and I recommend you do so. I really like this one for a first luxury watch.[/IMG]


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There is definitely something to be said for something as classic as this as a first, and currently "only" luxury watch. That's really the biggest consideration here I've been pondering. I love timepieces, but I don't think I'll be buying a second one for the coming few years, so whatever I choose now should be a very good all-rounder.

Thanks for the comment. That really is a gorgeous combination.

I'm heading off to my local store today to try some models out - let's see what they have available and go from there. ;)
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