How to build a "collection"

[HandDoc75]

I have always considered myself a horological enthusiast rather than a collector. I have bought...and then sold...more watches than I care to admit. But now, I have developed an interest in crafting a focused, goal oriented collection. How to do it? I realize that there is probably no clear answer. Or, possibly, the answer is very clear...acquire what you like. At any rate, please share your horological journey and how you have approached your watch collection. Thansk!

-Mark

[Denvertimeguy]

I’ve only been “collecting” since February this year and the first 3 Rolex I bought grey because I heard all the horror stories and AD’s games on here. Got the Yacht Master 40 Rhodium, No date Sub, and TT Rootbeer! All new and only paid little over msrp on all since it was during the Covid spike. Then upon vacation in Mexico I went into my first AD which later offered me a Batman after 3 weeks (obviously bought that) so I was confused to say the least. Went into my local AD and bought a TT 41 date just for 18k to start a relationship and just got offered a Batman less than 2 weeks after this purchase but declined. Finally went to my third AD this past Monday in Vegas and immediately upon walking in made a joke about going to the safe and grabbing me something... well I’ll be damned he did just that and came back with a TT Sea Dweller that I bought on the spot! Told me to give him my list once I got home and he would be the AD making things happen... 4 days later sent him my list and top of the list was actually the Bluesy (been waiting 4 months from my local AD).. he texted me back within 5 minutes that he saw one in the safe yesterday and he could get it for me... needless to say it’s on its way for delivery Wednesday! Long story short I guess my collection has just came together naturally and it’s been a wild ride so far! Also many told me I would have no luck at AD’s being a 29 year old tattooed individual but wow have they been wrong!

[cmcm3]

There’s loads of different possible ways to focus a collection. One of the most enjoyable I have done was to focus on amassing one or two of the most iconic watches from various manufacturers, without getting drawn into the more expensive nuances within the brand, for example, you could aim for:

Rolex - a Datejust and a Sub
Panerai - a base Radiomir and a base Luminor
Zenith - an El Primero
Omega - a Speedy Pro
Patek - a 5711 and a Calatrava
AP - a 39mm Royal Oak

This way (taking difficulty of attainment/premiums out of the equation - I’m just using the Nautilus and RO as examples) you are getting most bang for your buck from the manufacturers you are interested in, and the most diverse collection, without going down the rabbit hole of worrying what shape the 4 is on your Sub bezel - that way madness lies!

[cmcm3]

Originally Posted by HandDoc75

acquire what you like. -Mark

And this goes without saying, although I’ve occasionally taken a punt on something that didn’t sing to me but everyone raves about and once I’ve owned it I “got it” and similarly chased something I thought I’d love and known within minutes of receiving it that it wouldn’t be staying... so you can make some mistakes along the way!

[GreatHarry]

Originally Posted by cmcm3

There’s loads of different possible ways to focus a collection. One of the most enjoyable I have done was to focus on amassing one or two of the most iconic watches from various manufacturers, without getting drawn into the more expensive nuances within the brand, for example, you could aim for:

Rolex - a Datejust and a Sub
Panerai - a base Radiomir and a base Luminor
Zenith - an El Primero
Omega - a Speedy Pro
Patek - a 5711 and a Calatrava
AP - a 39mm Royal Oak

This way (taking difficulty of attainment/premiums out of the equation - I’m just using the Nautilus and RO as examples) you are getting most bang for your buck from the manufacturers you are interested in, and the most diverse collection, without going down the rabbit hole of worrying what shape the 4 is on your Sub bezel - that way madness lies!

That collection right there, I don't think it get's much better than that!

[Burlington]

Firstly be clear on what your own collecting goals are. What will make you happy ?

E.g.

- All PM
- Land, air, sea
- ‘hot’ pieces only
- As many brands as possible
- Holy Trinity based
- Multiple references of one watch (I.e. sub)
- References of significance from the last 100 years

Etc.

Then once you know the point you’re aiming for (that may also change in time) go on the journey.

[EtherBrown]

Originally Posted by cmcm3

There’s loads of different possible ways to focus a collection. One of the most enjoyable I have done was to focus on amassing one or two of the most iconic watches from various manufacturers, without getting drawn into the more expensive nuances within the brand, for example, you could aim for:

Rolex - a Datejust and a Sub
Panerai - a base Radiomir and a base Luminor
Zenith - an El Primero
Omega - a Speedy Pro
Patek - a 5711 and a Calatrava
AP - a 39mm Royal Oak

This way (taking difficulty of attainment/premiums out of the equation - I’m just using the Nautilus and RO as examples) you are getting most bang for your buck from the manufacturers you are interested in, and the most diverse collection, without going down the rabbit hole of worrying what shape the 4 is on your Sub bezel - that way madness lies!

Even though I’m Rolex heavy, I have a similar approach. I would drop a few of your options like Panerai and Zenith while adding:

IWC - Portuguese Chrono
Breitling - Navitimer
Cartier - Santos
JLC - Reverso


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[EtherBrown]

Originally Posted by Burlington

Firstly be clear on what your own collecting goals are. What will make you happy ?

E.g.

- All PM
- Land, air, sea
- ‘hot’ pieces only
- As many brands as possible
- Holy Trinity based
- Multiple references of one watch (I.e. sub)
- References of significance from the last 100 years

Etc.

Then once you know the point you’re aiming for (that may also change in time) go on the journey.

I like the trinity approach. If by trinity we mean the real one of Patek/Rolex/Lange.


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[cmcm3]

Originally Posted by EtherBrown

Even though I’m Rolex heavy, I have a similar approach. I would drop a few of your options like Panerai and Zenith while adding:

IWC - Portuguese Chrono
Breitling - Navitimer
Cartier - Santos
JLC - Reverso

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All good calls. That isn’t my actual collection, just an off-the-top example to illustrate an approach I have taken a few times in my watch nerd life! That reminds me, I have a Portuguese 7 day kicking around somewhere I must go and find and give some wrist time!

[Burlington]

Originally Posted by EtherBrown

I like the trinity approach. If by trinity we mean the real one of Patek/Rolex/Lange.


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Whichever approach works for the OP really.

I was initially thinking the traditionally defined triplet, but yes, why not adapt it or make ones own version for a collection.

Out of curiosity, why do you put those 3 together as the real trinity ?

[EtherBrown]

Originally Posted by cmcm3

All good calls. That isn’t my actual collection, just an off-the-top example to illustrate an approach I have taken a few times in my watch nerd life! That reminds me, I have a Portuguese 7 day kicking around somewhere I must go and find and give some wrist time!

Go get that Portuguese!


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[EtherBrown]

Originally Posted by Burlington

Whichever approach works for the OP really.

I was initially thinking the traditionally defined triplet, but yes, why not adapt it or make ones own version for a collection.

Out of curiosity, why do you put those 3 together as the real trinity ?

For me it’s a matter of the trinity suggesting reverence to the three best. And while VC and AP make wonderful watches, they haven’t expanded that pedigree to modern relevance the way Rolex and Lange have, IMHO.

In the US it’s almost like how “Ivy League” is supposed to suggest the best schools but it’s really an antiquated university sports conference, that excludes some of the more dynamic academic institutions from today.


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[Xenon]

Daydate
Datejust
Sub or GMT or Daytona
Stop

[Pongster]

Originally Posted by cmcm3

There’s loads of different possible ways to focus a collection. One of the most enjoyable I have done was to focus on amassing one or two of the most iconic watches from various manufacturers, without getting drawn into the more expensive nuances within the brand, for example, you could aim for:

Rolex - a Datejust and a Sub
Panerai - a base Radiomir and a base Luminor
Zenith - an El Primero
Omega - a Speedy Pro
Patek - a 5711 and a Calatrava
AP - a 39mm Royal Oak

This way (taking difficulty of attainment/premiums out of the equation - I’m just using the Nautilus and RO as examples) you are getting most bang for your buck from the manufacturers you are interested in, and the most diverse collection, without going down the rabbit hole of worrying what shape the 4 is on your Sub bezel - that way madness lies!

This is how i started. I wanted one watch per brand. And hopefully i get (and can afford) the most iconic or representative of the brand. And i will only buy one watch a year.

So i started with (if i recall correctly) a Rolex TwoTone Datejust in 2006. Following years i got an Omega Constellation, a Panerai Radiomir, an IWC Pilot, a Tiffany Atlas, a Cartier Santos, a Bulgari Bvlgari, a Jorg Gray, a Philip Stein, a Technomarine and a JLC Master Ultra Thin.

Then my wife broke the one watch per brand rule when she got me a Cartier Calibre de Cartier. So i used that as an excuse to myself to get a second Omega - a Speedmaster.

Then i read about Gerald Genta and wanted to collect all Genta designs. Good thing i already had one in the stash (the Bulgari). So got myself my second IWC (an Ingenieur), my third Cartier (a Pasha), an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and a Patek Philippe Nautilus. I also got my succeeding Rolex watches - a Submariner, a Daytona and a GMT Master II.

Then I got into Seikos and into vintage watches and joined various watch fora and all hell broke loose. :)

[HHIslander]

Unless you have unlimited disposable income, I would suggest you set some rules and try to follow them. I have finally learned to keep my collection to four.

Everyday-SS Sub no date
Dressier-OP 39 white
Special occasions-Smurf
Just because I like it, it but I rationalize it as an investment-Coke GMT

Be careful or the latter category can get large.

[Pongster]

Originally Posted by EtherBrown

I like the trinity approach. If by trinity we mean the real one of Patek/Rolex/Lange.


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I disagree.

The horological trinity would forever be AP, PP and VC.

I dont even think Rolex aspires to be in that trinity. Its focus is marketable robust watches and not watch complications.

The Germans could probably also come up with a trinity of their own. ALS and GO should be shoo-ins. Not sure which could be the third. Or it could just be a German dyad. In any case, it can be said that ALS and GO have a somewhat shared heritage.


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[Pongster]

Originally Posted by Pongster

I disagree.

The horological trinity would forever be AP, PP and VC.

I dont even think Rolex aspires to be in that trinity. Its focus is marketable robust watches and not watch complications.

The Germans could probably also come up with a trinity of their own. ALS and GO should be shoo-ins. Not sure which could be the third. Or it could just be a German dyad. In any case, it can be said that ALS and GO have a somewhat shared heritage.


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Nice collecting in threes

My horological trinity collection (all from vallée de joux)



My rolex trinity collection (sea air land)



My german trinity collection (all glashütte)



My seiko trinity collection




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[Burlington]

Originally Posted by Pongster

Nice collecting in threes

My horological trinity collection (all from vallée de joux)



My rolex trinity collection (sea air land)



My german trinity collection (all glashütte)



My seiko trinity collection




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That’s really great - and a nice way to subdivide a broader collection into smaller chunks to go after one by one !