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pk552502 · 30 July 2021, 07:26 AM

Hi All, I'd like to buy a simple dress watch to add to my collection. Right now, I don't have any true dress watches. The closest thing I have is a 16030 datejust and a 14270 explorer.

I would like solid yellow gold in the 36mm to 38mm range. I have small 6 inch wrists, so I like that smaller size the best. I am leaning toward patek, but VC is a contender also.

I don't want the watch to be ultra thin. The 5196 I think is too thin for the diameter. I also want a straightforward movement that is a workhorse. Thanks in advance for your response.

sensui · 30 July 2021, 07:54 AM

My choice wouldn't be on here, but it'd be one of the Vacheron 82172.

That said, I think the entry Vacheron manual winds are finished much better than the entry Patek dress pieces.

Great choices regardless, all of them!

HMHM · 30 July 2021, 08:10 AM

Have you considered Lange over the Vacherons? I do think the 5196 is the second best calatrava, the best being the discontinued 6006g. For the choices you give I would say 5127. It’s the quintessential Patek Calatrava.

Do have a look at the Lange. They are not too bad and can be bought for a good discount too.

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texasmade · 30 July 2021, 08:16 AM

I always liked the Vacheron 87172 over any of the Patek Calatravas for a simple dress watch.

uniqueMR · 30 July 2021, 08:39 AM

Go with Patek

BigAppleBill · 30 July 2021, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sensui

My choice wouldn't be on here, but it'd be one of the Vacheron 82172.

That said, I think the entry Vacheron manual winds are finished much better than the entry Patek dress pieces.

Great choices regardless, all of them!

+1 on all points. I couldn’t have said it better.

Flex368 · 30 July 2021, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sensui

My choice wouldn't be on here, but it'd be one of the Vacheron 82172.!

Exactly.

David5807 · 30 July 2021, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HMHM

Have you considered Lange over the Vacherons? I do think the 5196 is the second best calatrava, the best being the discontinued 6006g. For the choices you give I would say 5127. It’s the quintessential Patek Calatrava.

Do have a look at the Lange. They are not too bad and can be bought for a good discount too.

Attachment 1235741
Attachment 1235742

Yes, please look at the Lange watches, they are beautiful pieces of art for your wrist.
[IMG]

[/IMG]

macrowatch · 30 July 2021, 11:43 PM

I'm in the FPJ or ALS camp if focused on dress watches. Feel better bang for the buck design wise and movement beauty.

nyc2la · 31 July 2021, 02:27 AM

For a simple 3-hander, I am extremely happy with this choice, the FPJ CS Havana dial. The VC 82172 would be my second choice, although these are hard to find now. Not many current Pateks in this category that compare IMO.

vitalsigns · 31 July 2021, 02:44 AM

I personally would opt for a Lange or the VC Traditionnelle manual wind (small seconds). Lots of case and dial colors to choose from with the VC.

pk552502 · 31 July 2021, 03:51 AM

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm exploring some of the other brands/models you recommended. I do like the Lange 1815 36mm. I'm continuing to look at some of the others as well.

View Poll Results: best simple yellow gold dress watch
Patek 5117	6	22.22%
Patek 5107	1	3.70%
Patek 5127	10	37.04%
Vacheron Patrimony small 4100u 36mm	2	7.41%
Vacheron Patrimony 87172 38mm	10	37.04%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 27. You may not vote on this poll

30 July 2021, 07:26 AM	#1
pk552502 2024 Pledge Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Real Name: Paul Location: ohio Watch: 16570 black Posts: 441	Patek or Vacheron for simple dress watch? Hi All, I'd like to buy a simple dress watch to add to my collection. Right now, I don't have any true dress watches. The closest thing I have is a 16030 datejust and a 14270 explorer. I would like solid yellow gold in the 36mm to 38mm range. I have small 6 inch wrists, so I like that smaller size the best. I am leaning toward patek, but VC is a contender also. I don't want the watch to be ultra thin. The 5196 I think is too thin for the diameter. I also want a straightforward movement that is a workhorse. Thanks in advance for your response.

30 July 2021, 08:39 AM	#5
uniqueMR 2024 Pledge Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: USA Watch: P A T E K Posts: 4,694	Go with Patek __________________ A. Lange & Sohne \| Audemars Piguet \| F.P.Journe \| Omega \| Patek Philippe \| Rolex \| Tudor \| ...and Othersss

31 July 2021, 02:27 AM	#10
nyc2la "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Real Name: Stephen Location: Beach Watch: 16660 Posts: 9,176	Patek or Vacheron for simple dress watch? For a simple 3-hander, I am extremely happy with this choice, the FPJ CS Havana dial. The VC 82172 would be my second choice, although these are hard to find now. Not many current Pateks in this category that compare IMO. __________________ "Nothing great was ever achieved without enthusiasm." --- RWE

30 July 2021, 07:54 AM	#2
sensui 2024 Pledge Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 12,356	My choice wouldn't be on here, but it'd be one of the Vacheron 82172. That said, I think the entry Vacheron manual winds are finished much better than the entry Patek dress pieces. Great choices regardless, all of them!

30 July 2021, 08:10 AM	#3
HMHM "TRF" Member Join Date: Oct 2019 Real Name: HM Location: 🇲🇾 Posts: 2,356	Have you considered Lange over the Vacherons? I do think the 5196 is the second best calatrava, the best being the discontinued 6006g. For the choices you give I would say 5127. It’s the quintessential Patek Calatrava. Do have a look at the Lange. They are not too bad and can be bought for a good discount too. A33CE9A0-8EC1-4D31-95CA-3A207B517150.jpeg D07B032B-4DEB-4E09-9042-BDBFEDF4EE21.jpeg

30 July 2021, 08:16 AM	#4
texasmade "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Real Name: Robert Location: Lone Star State Watch: AP RO 15400, FOIS Posts: 2,333	I always liked the Vacheron 87172 over any of the Patek Calatravas for a simple dress watch.

30 July 2021, 11:43 PM	#9
macrowatch "TRF" Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: HK Posts: 4,365	I'm in the FPJ or ALS camp if focused on dress watches. Feel better bang for the buck design wise and movement beauty.

31 July 2021, 02:44 AM	#11
vitalsigns "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: USA Posts: 513	I personally would opt for a Lange or the VC Traditionnelle manual wind (small seconds). Lots of case and dial colors to choose from with the VC.

31 July 2021, 03:51 AM	#12
pk552502 2024 Pledge Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Real Name: Paul Location: ohio Watch: 16570 black Posts: 441	Thanks for all the input guys. I'm exploring some of the other brands/models you recommended. I do like the Lange 1815 36mm. I'm continuing to look at some of the others as well.

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