The longest incoming - Kari Voutilainen

[KarlS]

I love my watches. Each in a different way but then one day I was reflecting on Orange County Choppers (as you would do in a normal day) and how in the beginning they used to really build bespoke bikes with a high degree of inhouse fabrication. As they became more popular you could see that they were ordering more. D more from external suppliers (frame / forks etc) and just designing and assembling. Pretty much what's happened to watches.

In my imperfect view I felt that the use of the word "watchmaker" is being too liberally used. The fact that all parts are machines elsewhere and the. Stuck in little plastic boxes to be assembled didn't mean you are a watchmaker. You not making anything, you are assembling a watch. So I thought let me get something which I can see the people who made it and maybe have a piece of the makers passion on my arm.

So you would also have seen the shortlist was Roger Smith and Kari Voutilainen.

Roger is the ultimate for a full inhouse manufacture. A tiny workforce and a production run of 10 (I think only because this year he is finishing off one of the Anniversary runs which are complications and then could ramp up but he does everything inhouse including the cases. Thus comes at a price and the production time for the series 2 was 3-4 years.

I like guilloche and engine turning and classical styling but couldn't get around the second hand which I felt was too large for MY aesthetics and to be frank I have the concentration span of a gnat so that's like 3 Baselworlds where I would have been tempted and thus it was Kari.

A few emails over the months as to what was possible or not led me to want to actually see a watch and try it in. I didn't felt like spending that cash without getting a visual and how it sits in the arm. So everything was delayed until I had the chance to go to Geneva and meet with him. That was today.

He is based in Motier which means a 50 min train trip to Yverdon Les Baines where he collected me. Then another hour drive to his workshop. Truly a charming gentlemen.

i will break the thread up as I get a chance to carry on

[KarlS]

This is all yverdon

[TheRolexKingofLV]

Charming town

[KarlS]

so what do we have as a watchmaker? A production run of 27-52 watches a year. Originally the wIting period was 3. Years but as he felt more and embarrassed telling buyers that there watch was next he had to hire more staff. Today just over 21 and with current production at 36 for the year believes 50 is the maximum they will do a year.

[KarlS]

As the factory is his house I have tried to be s bit sensitive about taking pictures of people and his home. Where you see people it's with their. I sent and I have avoided posted pictures which include other peoples watches being made etc. There is a very helpful book on him which I used as research before meeting him.

[FreddyNJ]

Incredible! Their GMTs look amazing. Can't wait to see what you are getting.

[KarlS]

If you expect everything to be made inhouse and by the master himself then move in, because it isn't!! Unlike RWS the cases are made externally and polished. They are milled and to have that type of equipment for small production runs just isn't economical.

The glass and springs are also outsourced which is pretty normal. It would gave been nice having the 3 band case forged by them but then everything has little compromises.

So an obvious question is what does he wear and a got to admit being a little surprised. They only manufacture in WG, RG and Pl no YG.

[KarlS]

I had chosen the 28 as I wanted a simple 3 hander and was always torn between the blue dial and the silver dial.

[texex91]

Looks like a fun trip.

[KarlS]

I have always liked a PR (reason I sold the FPJ CB) but I felt that Kari's looked a bit too
Much like FPJ which I already have. It would have been a nice to have but not at the expense of what I liked aesthetics wise.

[KarlS]

Pr

[KarlS]

White dials

[KarlS]

Originally Posted by texex91

Looks like a fun trip.

and he bought lunch!!

[KarlS]

So it was really down to the blue and the silver and Arnaud was going the blue route and I didn't want his unique piece to be labeled as "almost unique" on the movement!! So we had to discuss some broader issues. Numerals. Chose Arabic.

[texex91]

Originally Posted by KarlS

and he bought lunch!!

Well I think he came out the winner long term on that one

[KarlS]

Choosing the guilloche is just confusing. There is a book of dials that must be 10 pages long from basket weave, to fish scale, sun ray and that's when you start wondering G when less becomes more. Your gut wants you to have as much as possible to display the dirk of the artisan but you don't want this to be a hodgepodge of designs. I have chosen s basket weave, couple of fit things and a wavy thing!! Think it will be ok!!

[KarlS]

Let's discuss some nitty gritty.

"So how long is your guarantee"? (Raised eyebrow). I mean if I pull the crown out on year 2 plus 1. What happens? "i fix it" Ok, what if after 7 years the crown falls off???? I fix it!!! I don't need a time period as I just fix it whether 2 years or 5 years or 10 years

[KarlS]

How often should your watches be serviced? Well if you wear every day then 7 years or less frequently 10 years. The oil gets thick and needs to be changed

[KarlS]

Ok so where do I send it and how long?? They all come to Motier and servicing takes priority over watchmaking. They delay production to ensure the service is under 2 months back to owner.

[KarlS]

What happens when you not around? Who services then then?
A). I am 54 with no plans to retire. There is more than 20 years left
B). My daughter is studying watchmaking
C). All my movements are classical designs and any competent watchmaker could service or make parts for it.

[Vipes]

This is an awesome post. Can't wait to see the final product.

[Watchflair]

Absolutely awesome ~ thank you for sharing!

[GerardoG]

Wow! Very nice!

[teqp]

Looks like you are having a blast on your trip, with great weather. Beautiful watches, thanks for sharing.

[KarlS]

The watches are designed with some longevity in mind. Mostly rounds and curves and no sharp edges allows for polishing numerous times without affecting the look of the watch. There is a rim if 1mm as a double band around the case. The idea being that as thevwatch lies on its side then the case itself doesn't touch the surface on which it lies but just the 1mm bit. Therefore the case itself does not pick up scratches.

[KarlS]

The dials are silver and engine turned inhouse. Two ladies do the work and I didn't fully appreciate the work that goes into this art form. Each line is cut singularly on the machine and a normal dial will take 3 days to make.

Enameling is also done inhouse through a factory he bought a few years.

[texex91]

Originally Posted by KarlS

What happens when you not around? Who services then then?
A). I am 54 with no plans to retire. There is more than 20 years left
B). My daughter is studying watchmaking
C). All my movements are classical designs and any competent watchmaker could service or make parts for it.

a) Age isn't the gauge of how long will actually live
b) Nice to see family coming up in business
c) That's good to know

Pieces like this are amazing (love that dial). Very cool to design your watch--almost too many choices!

But it's a watch you have to just keep forever (as most probably do).

Flippers like myself can't do things like this.

Will be fun to live vicariously through you on your journey

[KarlS]

They do use CNC machines (correct word?) and thus is used for high precision cutting...ideally they do a years requirements in one run to save time as setting up the machines etc take time.

The mind boggles at the size of some of the screws they are made...they looked smaller than freckles and are all polished, the smallest gavingvs thread of 0.4 mm yes that less than 1mm. the poor chap in the purple is doing the screws when I was there

[KarlS]

I couldn't take a picture of a repeater that was being prepared but it appears to use an ebauche movement. So each person has a role. What happens if the person is not there for a months holiday? Well simple the work doesn't get done. So if you are the CNC machinist make sure everything is cut before you go on leave or if you are a dial cutter no dials are done for the month.

They definitely have a relaxed work environment and he encourages time off and a balanced life style. That's also a primary reason why he will restrict production, he likes to cross country ski!

However they all have pride in their work and when stuff needs to get done it gets done!

[KarlS]

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