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Old 26 January 2013, 12:50 AM   #61
lsavoldi
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Hello Michael,
Do you also restore dials?
Thanks and congratulations on a great service.
Luciano
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Old 26 January 2013, 12:52 AM   #62
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thanks for part 2
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Old 26 January 2013, 01:08 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicwatchparts View Post
So the trick is to get bands restored when they are moderately loose and not wait till the links are worn beyond repair.
Thank you for your answer. Can you show us a picture of what you consider "moderate" wear and one with wear beyond "normal" restoration limits?

Does occasional ultrasonic cleaning slow the wear?

Woody





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Old 26 January 2013, 01:42 AM   #64
classicwatchparts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsavoldi View Post
Hello Michael,
Do you also restore dials?
Thanks and congratulations on a great service.
Luciano
Yes we do both restorations and complete repaint, depending on what condition of the dial you have.

I have a new post with a 1680 red sub dial restoration, have a read

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=277041
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Old 26 January 2013, 01:47 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechman View Post
Thank you for your answer. Can you show us a picture of what you consider "moderate" wear and one with wear beyond "normal" restoration limits?

Does occasional ultrasonic cleaning slow the wear?

Woody





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Will try to dig out some photos later but generall at full stretch when yoy lay it flat on a table and you push all the links tightly together and then stretch it to full length and the difference is like 1/2 inch then it is moderate, more than this needs immediate attention.
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Old 26 January 2013, 02:00 AM   #66
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Great work Michael, actually sent you à 7836 bracelet à few days ago, looking forward to se the result!



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Old 26 January 2013, 02:30 AM   #67
classicwatchparts
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Sure thing Joachim, will email once I get it.



Reaching out here is like finding all my buddies. Yee ha.
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Old 26 January 2013, 02:43 AM   #68
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Sure thing Joachim, will email once I get it.



Reaching out here is like finding all my buddies. Yee ha.
HAGWE Michael!
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Old 26 January 2013, 03:33 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by classicwatchparts View Post
Will try to dig out some photos later but generall at full stretch when yoy lay it flat on a table and you push all the links tightly together and then stretch it to full length and the difference is like 1/2 inch then it is moderate, more than this needs immediate attention.
That explanation is better and more precise than any pictures, no picture needed.

Thank you!





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Old 26 January 2013, 03:58 AM   #70
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I must confess one problem I had last October after Michael send me back my 1982 Triple6 bracelet in Switzerland.

The Swiss customs kept it almost a month before giving the authorisation of delivery as they believed it was a fake. During this month time, the bracelet was tested by the "Fédération Horlogère Suisse" by order of Rolex Lawyers.

It goes without saying that the bracelet would have been destroyed by Rolex if they believed that it wasn't 100 % original after Michael's fantastic job.

Many thanks again Michael
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Old 26 January 2013, 05:55 AM   #71
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great article... thanks...
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Old 26 January 2013, 09:08 AM   #72
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Quote:
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Yes we can do bead rice Gay Feres bands as well, we 've done a few over the years.
Gee Michael, you have done over 20 expanding Gay Freres bands for me... im one of the ones who has come to your defence in times past.

Every time I have asked you about Gay Freres "beads of rice" you said you didnt do them... If you have now "changed" your policy you will get 5 in the mail very soon!!!!



Please confirm if you do these bands.
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Old 26 January 2013, 10:22 AM   #73
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Michael, thanks for the thread it's great to see how you practice your craft. You worked wonders on my 70s 9315. Thank you!
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Old 26 January 2013, 12:12 PM   #74
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Gee Michael, you have done over 20 expanding Gay Freres bands for me... im one of the ones who has come to your defence in times past.

Every time I have asked you about Gay Freres "beads of rice" you said you didnt do them... If you have now "changed" your policy you will get 5 in the mail very soon!!!!



Please confirm if you do these bands.
Yes we should be able to handle them now. Please send it to my PO box address.
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Old 26 January 2013, 12:13 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahamaya View Post
I must confess one problem I had last October after Michael send me back my 1982 Triple6 bracelet in Switzerland.

The Swiss customs kept it almost a month before giving the authorisation of delivery as they believed it was a fake. During this month time, the bracelet was tested by the "Fédération Horlogère Suisse" by order of Rolex Lawyers.

It goes without saying that the bracelet would have been destroyed by Rolex if they believed that it wasn't 100 % original after Michael's fantastic job.

Many thanks again Michael
Now that's quite a feat, verified by "Fédération Horlogère Suisse" ,
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Old 26 January 2013, 02:12 PM   #76
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I mean just stating the obvious, if the link is a removable one with a screw on the side then its user removable, but for the fixed links its pretty much us or the RSC. I have not personally seen the RSC machine, but I know they can do it.

Both the bracelet on the Tudor and the one I bought for the spare link do NOT have screws so they will need the MACHINE. My watchmaster seemed to think they could do it but I will check again. I hate to send it to the other side of the world (I am in NY) to have a link put in. I wish I could do it. Dang it !
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Old 26 January 2013, 02:14 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahamaya View Post
I must confess one problem I had last October after Michael send me back my 1982 Triple6 bracelet in Switzerland.

The Swiss customs kept it almost a month before giving the authorisation of delivery as they believed it was a fake. During this month time, the bracelet was tested by the "Fédération Horlogère Suisse" by order of Rolex Lawyers.

It goes without saying that the bracelet would have been destroyed by Rolex if they believed that it wasn't 100 % original after Michael's fantastic job.

Many thanks again Michael

And, that's why I don't want to send anything overseas ! I bought a vintage Rolex watch box from a guy in the UK. It turned out to be fake. I sent it back. Customs kept it. I'm out the money.
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Old 26 January 2013, 03:23 PM   #78
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Best thread in awhile. Great to have you here Michael.
When you add the vintage bands like the 7206 and the US made C&I, could you include how (if you can) pull apart the rivets? Also, do you have original C&I hollow end rivets if the pins need to be replaced?
Thanks
CD
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Old 26 January 2013, 03:37 PM   #79
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And, that's why I don't want to send anything overseas ! I bought a vintage Rolex watch box from a guy in the UK. It turned out to be fake. I sent it back. Customs kept it. I'm out the money.
The same here in Switzerland if the bracelet would have been a fake +PLUS+ a fine +PLUS+ All customs and FH Expertise charges +PLUS+ Rolex Legals on your neck ...
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Old 26 January 2013, 10:13 PM   #80
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Thank you for sharing Micheal

I will need to come visit you soon....
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Old 27 January 2013, 12:39 AM   #81
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Great stuff, thanks for sharing!

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Old 27 January 2013, 02:36 AM   #82
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Awesome thread Michael. I will eventually send you one or two.

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Old 27 January 2013, 02:40 PM   #83
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Michael, with the first machine, how do the black metal pads keep from scratching the bracelet? Are there rubber pads on the bottom? I can see from the black claws that grip the other bracelet on the sides where that would not cause scratching of the metal but with the first one how do you keep from scratching it? I mean, it has the same principle as a vice grip and that makes me think "metal to metal" will cause some scratching.
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Old 27 January 2013, 03:43 PM   #84
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Thanks for popping in Michael and sharing your work with us. I have seen bracelets that have had your magic treatment and they are first class.

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Old 27 January 2013, 07:12 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaveDiver View Post
Best thread in awhile. Great to have you here Michael.
When you add the vintage bands like the 7206 and the US made C&I, could you include how (if you can) pull apart the rivets? Also, do you have original C&I hollow end rivets if the pins need to be replaced?
Thanks
CD
We actually don't replace the rivets, they are all kept unless broken. Or replacements are not 100% the same so we tend not to replace unless there is no choice.

For the US C&I we don't have the replacements so have the use the pointy type if it is broken.
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Old 27 January 2013, 07:15 PM   #86
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Michael, with the first machine, how do the black metal pads keep from scratching the bracelet? Are there rubber pads on the bottom? I can see from the black claws that grip the other bracelet on the sides where that would not cause scratching of the metal but with the first one how do you keep from scratching it? I mean, it has the same principle as a vice grip and that makes me think "metal to metal" will cause some scratching.


Rubber pads on the machine will not work and we have tested since we need a strong grip , with a rubber pad below the claw will slip since rubber is soft and will compress under pressure. However even if there are marks it wil be very light marks, that's why we do a full polish after the whole restoration and the marks will buff out easily.
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Old 28 January 2013, 12:35 PM   #87
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Any more restoration photos??
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Old 28 January 2013, 07:29 PM   #88
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Michael, you can use my bracelet i sent you as a show piece? Show us all the steps from when you get it until its finished?
Just an idea:)
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Old 29 January 2013, 02:15 PM   #89
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Chapter 3 Rebuilding rivet oyster bands

Welcome back to Chapter 3, this chapter will cover the restoration of a rivet band.

Firstly I will have to say that rivets band made by Rolex in the 50s-60s is one of the toughest band out of the lot. They have been in service for 50-60 years and I have rarely seen some really broken bands in comparison to the weakest 2 tone Jubilee bands.
They might look flimsy but the construction is solid, but also makes it very difficult to restore.
In this chapter there is no machine that can help me out, only pure sweat.
Tools needed:
Hammer
Flat Pliers
2 round tip Pliers
Flat head Screwdriver

In picture 1 & 2 is the front and back of the band that I will restore the first link for demo purposes.
Pic 3 shows me trying to pry open the first link with the screwdriver. By slowing pushing in one side to slip the screwdriver underneath and then lifting it will do it, do not worry about bending or scratching it

Pic 4 &5 Shows the center link opened and removed. As you can see the construction of the link, basically there is 3 folded piece that bends over 2 rivets to form a single link . However usually it is the center piece that flattens out thereby add slack to the band. If we reshape the center metal piece, that will take care most of the job. The 2 rivets on the link is fixed so the only way is to unfold the center pieces.

Pic 6&7 shows the center metal piece being straighted. During the unfolding, there will be creases on the metal piece and by using a flat plier and some grip you will be able to flatten out the creases and dings. However do not completed unfold the link otherwise it will be more work latter

Pic 8 Shows a flattened out center link

Pic 9 is where it is most difficult to grasp, you really need to test it out many times to get it right. With the flattened out center link, you will need to bend it back with a curve so that when installed on the link it will not be completely flat. It does not matter if it is a little too curvy, since the hammering in the next steps will flatten out the link.

Pic 10 At this point we have to determine if simply reshaping the center link will take out the stretch, if not we shall add small pieces of metal as sleeves before we refit the link. For this band is is actually not so bad so a straight reshape is all that is needed.
Pic 11 With the curved link installed you will have to slowly push the two sides of the center link to a point the two end touches and this is very important otherwise the link will overlap when hammered. Next will be the hammering, by maintaining the 2 ends touching a hammer is used to flatten out the link until it is almost flat. Because the 2 ends are always touching you will see in Pic 12 a perfect first link.

Pic 13 & 14 shows the polishing with a nylon wheel to take out the tool marks and finally with a abrasive rubber bar, the final satin finish is applied.

Quite a lot of work for one link right? Technically the same process is applied to folded oyster links except the metal is thicker in folded oyster links and more sweat is needed to redo them.
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Old 29 January 2013, 02:32 PM   #90
perpetualman88
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Michael fantastic to have you aboard. Have read so many great things about your restoration jobs you are nothing short of a magician.

I wish you the best and should the need arise you will have my business
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