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Old 29 January 2013, 03:05 PM   #91
DrLindaPhD
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Originally Posted by Joachim View Post
Michael, you can use my bracelet i sent you as a show piece? Show us all the steps from when you get it until its finished?
Just an idea:)

That's a great idea. I hope he does it. I want to see it too.
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Old 29 January 2013, 03:18 PM   #92
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Thanks for part 3 Micheal.....interesting reading, please keep the chapters coming
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Old 29 January 2013, 03:55 PM   #93
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Amazing. Thanks again.
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Old 29 January 2013, 04:11 PM   #94
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Very cool stuff. Thanks for posting!
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Old 29 January 2013, 07:57 PM   #95
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Fantastic and highly interesting thread!
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Old 30 January 2013, 01:12 AM   #96
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Incredibly beautiful work, also cheap.
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Old 30 January 2013, 10:15 AM   #97
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Do you have a close up of how the link looks after it is reshaped??
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Old 30 January 2013, 11:06 AM   #98
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Welcome to TRF

Michael, what you do is nothing short of amazing

Love your work

edit: Are you able to fix folded jubilees? Specifically my 6251H?
Thanks
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Old 30 January 2013, 12:10 PM   #99
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Micheal's ability

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Originally Posted by jolimont View Post
Welcome to TRF

Michael, what you do is nothing short of amazing

Love your work

edit: Are you able to fix folded jubilees? Specifically my 6251H?
Thanks
He just did mine. Great work as always!


And for those who think they can produce the same result after reading the info graciously shared my Michael, please think twice. You are going to have lots of patience, and couple of extra bracelets ...
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Old 30 January 2013, 01:31 PM   #100
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He just did mine. Great work as always!


And for those who think they can produce the same result after reading the info graciously shared my Michael, please think twice. You are going to have lots of patience, and couple of extra bracelets ...
Thanks, that's exactly why I don't mind posting it, otherwise there will be competing services popping up all over.

It is not exactly rocket science but like a wood worker, this takes some training and experience to get it done to a level that you can charge people for it.

But I would like forum members to have a go with some spare links they have to fiddle with to get a feel of whats been done to their bands and remove and replace a link without having it to be sent half way around the world.

Anyway if there's a failed project, we should still be able to restore it , so don't be so worried. That's how I got started with this bug
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Old 30 January 2013, 02:03 PM   #101
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Great work! Let's see a president restoration.
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Old 30 January 2013, 02:21 PM   #102
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Great work! Let's see a president restoration.
Unfortunately, for gold president bands I work with a goldsmith on them and he does not like to openly show the process. Working with precious metals is a totally different beast.

But basically I can tell you that president bands have soldered center pins and are not easily forced open like the steel and 2 tone bands.

All the center links have to be repinned with new gold pins thats why it is so expensive for the restoration. Links are often deformed becasue gold is so soft and the really problemmatic links have to be recasted and polished to get them back in the correct shape. Less worn links are laser soldered and then reshaped.


So it is not as straighforward as the steel bands and pretty much unservicable by the user.
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Old 30 January 2013, 02:36 PM   #103
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Very informative, thank you for taking the time to post this. I'll be sending you my 78790A oyster within the next few weeks.
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Old 3 February 2013, 11:01 PM   #104
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Great posts Michael. You worked wonders on a 18kt/ss jubilee I sent you a few years back. It's interesting to hear how the process works. In my case it looked like the small jubilee links were cut and folded over...is that correct?
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Old 3 February 2013, 11:10 PM   #105
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Unfortunately, for gold president bands I work with a goldsmith on them and he does not like to openly show the process. Working with precious metals is a totally different beast.

But basically I can tell you that president bands have soldered center pins and are not easily forced open like the steel and 2 tone bands.

All the center links have to be repinned with new gold pins thats why it is so expensive for the restoration. Links are often deformed becasue gold is so soft and the really problemmatic links have to be recasted and polished to get them back in the correct shape. Less worn links are laser soldered and then reshaped.


So it is not as straighforward as the steel bands and pretty much unservicable by the user.
Hello, how much does it cost to renovate a President bracelet 18k. ?Thanks.
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Old 4 February 2013, 01:45 AM   #106
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Last I checked it was $1k to overhaul a President.
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Old 5 February 2013, 05:57 PM   #107
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Last I checked it was $1k to overhaul a President.
Spot on , that covers the basic restoration , but if the band is extremely worn, it might need some extra gold to fill in the worn spots.
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Old 6 February 2013, 11:02 AM   #108
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Michael, Thanks for the look behind the curtain. This has really made me feel comfortable about sending it to Hong Kong. I'll be shipping to you next week. Thanks again
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Old 6 February 2013, 12:54 PM   #109
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Nice to see you on TRF Michael!

Can you touch upon the process on restoring end links? Specifically, end links found on rivet bracelets that tend to fit loosely against the case?

I have a 7206 that is not too badly stretched, but the end links don't sit completely flush against the case unless at certain angles, which can be bothersome
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Old 6 February 2013, 03:24 PM   #110
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Nice to see you on TRF Michael!

Can you touch upon the process on restoring end links? Specifically, end links found on rivet bracelets that tend to fit loosely against the case?

I have a 7206 that is not too badly stretched, but the end links don't sit completely flush against the case unless at certain angles, which can be bothersome
For the loose end links, that has to do with the connector piece of metal that connects the last link and the end piece. That piece becomes loose after all those years. You can either bend it with a pair of round pliers to tighten it.

Or the easy way out is to squeeze on the end piece so that it becomes slightly thinner , that way it pushes it out from the mid case and creates a little tension to stop the rattling. It is reversible so don't worry about trying.

If you are still unhappy with the results, maybe its time to get a complete refurb of the whole band.
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Old 6 February 2013, 03:54 PM   #111
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For the loose end links, that has to do with the connector piece of metal that connects the last link and the end piece. That piece becomes loose after all those years. You can either bend it with a pair of round pliers to tighten it.

Or the easy way out is to squeeze on the end piece so that it becomes slightly thinner , that way it pushes it out from the mid case and creates a little tension to stop the rattling. It is reversible so don't worry about trying.

If you are still unhappy with the results, maybe its time to get a complete refurb of the whole band.
Thanks Michael. I will give it a shot. If it doesn't work out, I'll be sending it your way.

On another note, I think we would love to see pictures of your 5510
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Old 6 February 2013, 04:33 PM   #112
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Thanks Michael. I will give it a shot. If it doesn't work out, I'll be sending it your way.

On another note, I think we would love to see pictures of your 5510
Ha Ha ha, yes I have not worn the watch ever since I learned of the real value of the 5510.

Bought the watch around 1993 in college because I could not afford a shouldered Sub for 500 Aussie Dollars. Was learning for what it is, the model number was funny its not 5513 and the crown is bigger than normal and with Brevet on it. It cannot be a fake since it has the 1530 movement and everything looks right but different ;)

Will try to dig it out of the bank safe someday ....


Attached a little photo of it. Its the 3rd one in the middle row
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Old 6 February 2013, 04:45 PM   #113
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Sorry the photo was too small. Here's a bigger one
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Old 6 February 2013, 05:30 PM   #114
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wow - amazing collection Michael!
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Old 7 February 2013, 02:26 AM   #115
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Amazing thread Michael. Thanks so much for sharing. It's great to see images of how it's done. Just mesmerizing! If I ever feel like restoring the 78360 on my 1675 I will send it your way. I kind of like the rattling sound it makes though.


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Old 7 February 2013, 11:29 AM   #116
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Michael, our thanks!

Michael, Not only are you a stunning resource to the Vintage community, but you are so generous w/ your wisdom! My thanks for being such a gentleman to us all!
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Old 7 February 2013, 12:41 PM   #117
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Amazing thread Michael. Thanks so much for sharing. It's great to see images of how it's done. Just mesmerizing! If I ever feel like restoring the 78360 on my 1675 I will send it your way. I kind of like the rattling sound it makes though.


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No problems with the rattle, just make sure the first link is not too loose. If it knocks on the mid case when rattling it will chamfer/wear the corner of the inside lugs then you will have a bigger problem later to fix the mid case.
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Old 7 February 2013, 12:47 PM   #118
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Michael, Not only are you a stunning resource to the Vintage community, but you are so generous w/ your wisdom! My thanks for being such a gentleman to us all!
mcotter
Thanks for your complements. No problem at all.

Feel free to ask any questions about restorations on a Rolex watch. Practically we have most of the know-hows on how to fix the issues of the watch especially sports models. The only real issue we have not cracked open is the reprint with Gilt dials but I heard someone is doing it now.
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Old 8 February 2013, 07:18 AM   #119
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Greetings from Hawaii Michael! So glad to see your posts here. Please let me echo the same compliments that others have expressed here. I have contacted you in the past but so far have not sent in a band for servicing (yet) however, it's really good to know you're still providing this valuable service. Best regards and ALOHA!
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Old 8 February 2013, 08:30 AM   #120
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Michael, have heard a lot of great things for sometime. It's a pleasure to have you around here and nice to finally meet you
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