How many of you are into shoes... (Dress Shoes)?

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Yeah, I would hope so. Actually the time it’s taken with a creation of your Last hasn’t actually been that bad, i’ve waited approximately a year for a couple of MTO shoes that used generic or shoemaker Lasts. By the way how many times have you had to get measured for the Last? Did they have to make any adjustments after the original measurements were taken?

I had an initial measurement on Oct ‘17, a first fitting with some feedback during a US trunk show in April ‘18 - on a temporary sole / heel.

Had them redo the toe box and got a look see just the other day.

I hear it is not totally uncommon to have some adjustments made even after taking final delivery.

I requested a fiddle-back waist, which I am really looking forward to seeing... hoping the finish- which looks antiqued - looks more like the whiskey finish I requested via a sample shoe I saw during my measurements. The latter may have been a miscommunication to the shop.

[swils8610]

simple pair of Quoddy’s on a nice summer day for me.


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[dddrees]

Originally Posted by swils8610

simple pair of Quoddy’s on a nice summer day for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nice, actually wore a pair of Rancourts today.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

I had an initial measurement on Oct ‘17, a first fitting with some feedback during a US trunk show in April ‘18 - on a temporary sole / heel.

Had them redo the toe box and got a look see just the other day.

I hear it is not totally uncommon to have some adjustments made even after taking final delivery.

I requested a fiddle-back waist, which I am really looking forward to seeing... hoping the finish- which looks antiqued - looks more like the whiskey finish I requested via a sample shoe I saw during my measurements. The latter may have been a miscommunication to the shop.

I wondered, initial measurement and a check after the actual Last was made sounds about right. So in April did you try on a pair of trial shoes made from that Last or did they just check against the actual Last?

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

I wondered, initial measurement and a check after the actual Last was made sounds about right. So in April did you try on a pair of trial shoes made from that Last or did they just check against the actual Last?

In April, I tried the actual uppers on temporary sole/heels.

Gave feedback on one tight spot and asked to have the toe box addressed. The initial toe shape attempt was more of a wide puffy toe - not chiseled.
Had my heart set on the latter, but it was a challenge due to my wide foot shape.

See the first attempt below...

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

In April, I tried the actual uppers on temporary sole/heels.

Gave feedback on one tight spot and asked to have the toe box addressed. The initial toe shape attempt was more of a wide puffy toe - not chiseled.
Had my heart set on the latter, but it was a challenge due to my wide foot shape.

See the first attempt below...

Interesting, I have read where some shoemakers have you try on a pair of cheap shoes made from the Last. I can see where you’d want a more narrow toe box. Oh well, fit is a whole lot more important than anything else. The chiseled toebox generally isn’t the best fit for me either.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Interesting, I have read where some shoemakers have you try on a pair of cheap shoes made from the Last. I can see where you’d want a more narrow toe box. Oh well, fit is a whole lot more important than anything else. The chiseled toebox generally isn’t the best fit for me either.

Agree on the fit...but, I think they got closer to the style I wanted - and that they’re known for.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

Agree on the fit...but, I think they got closer to the style I wanted - and that they’re known for.

No doubt, it has to look good too.

Thanks for sharing. Can’t wait to see the final product.

[Peter99]

Here are my Russell & Bromley of London brogue shoes, made I believe in Spain, they are a light weight shoe ideal for the summer.
Not quite comparable with Edward Green or Crockett & Jones, but you get what you pay for.

My question is, does anyone have any opinion whether it is good idea to polish the soles of shoes rather than just the instep?
I have often thought about this.
I know in the British Army one always had to do this to the soles of your best pair of boots, but really this was for inspection purposes in the barrack room as the soles were always presented for inspection, not the uppers, this was to make sure you had the right number of studs in place. It was assumed the uppers were always highly polished.
Any thoughts?

[Abdullah71601]

Originally Posted by Speed

Agree on the fit...but, I think they got closer to the style I wanted - and that they’re known for.

I wear a wide and can get comfortably into a chiseled toe box. I think they just need to work it for you. I'm certain they can create exactly what you want.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

I wear a wide and can get comfortably into a chiseled toe box. I think they just need to work it for you. I'm certain they can create exactly what you want.

Yes. They managed to do so on the image of the pair I posted.

[Peter99]

Originally Posted by Peter99

Here are my Russell & Bromley of London brogue shoes, made I believe in Spain, they are a light weight shoe ideal for the summer.
Not quite comparable with Edward Green or Crockett & Jones, but you get what you pay for.

My question is, does anyone have any opinion whether it is good idea to polish the soles of shoes rather than just the instep?
I have often thought about this.
I know in the British Army one always had to do this to the soles of your best pair of boots, but really this was for inspection purposes in the barrack room as the soles were always presented for inspection, not the uppers, this was to make sure you had the right number of studs in place. It was assumed the uppers were always highly polished.
Any thoughts?

My post above regarding applying shoe polish to the sole of the shoe I have answered myself: Don’t!
It does reduce friction which could reduce sole wear but on some surfaces it is far to slippy.
Rough tarmac type surfaces OK, but smooth marble type surfaces no.
Too much like skating!

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

No doubt, it has to look good too.



Thanks for sharing. Can’t wait to see the final product.

Ok. They’re here! What do you think Dan?

The brown whiskey / antique finish turned out well. I asked for a fiddleback waist...there really isn’t one, so I need to follow up about that. I was hoping for a bit more dramatic look on the bottoms.

The fit is snug, but clearly I need to break these in. I like the mirror polish on the toe. I may touch up using Saphir mirror gloss - and do likewise on the heel pieces to get that glassy finish.

I’m glad I got brown as these can be worn with a suit - which I am in need/want of - as well as jeans and slacks.

I like the custom lasted shoe tree. It’s really light and minimalist...

[dddrees]

Extremely attractive design and I like the color you chose. It doesn’t appear to be a solid color so because of that it has more character which I like.


Congrats, Very nice indeed!!

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Extremely attractive design and I like the color you chose. It doesn’t appear to be a solid color so because of that it has more character which I like.


Congrats, Very nice indeed!!

Thanks much Dan.

I believe the design is called an "Adelaide." They worked the leather finish a fair bit from the near final version I posed a couple months ago. It turned out better than I had hoped.

I'll see how these go. I would like a pair in black calf - maybe with no medallion on the toe. The plain black oxfords are a tad hum drum...I really like the broguing on these. They would still be quite different from the Church's I have. Those seem so huge and extra long since I needed the width. Bespoke really seems to work for my short / wide feet... But a spendy proposition to be sure.

[Abdullah71601]

Originally Posted by Speed

Ok. They’re here! What do you think Dan?

The brown whiskey / antique finish turned out well. I asked for a fiddleback waist...there really isn’t one, so I need to follow up about that. I was hoping for a bit more dramatic look on the bottoms.

The fit is snug, but clearly I need to break these in. I like the mirror polish on the toe. I may touch up using Saphir mirror gloss - and do likewise on the heel pieces to get that glassy finish.

I’m glad I got brown as these can be worn with a suit - which I am in need/want of - as well as jeans and slacks.

I like the custom lasted shoe tree. It’s really light and minimalist...

Awesome shoes. The toebox came out much better than the mock up. Congrats!

[Wesley Crusher]

Great looking shoes. Well done!

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

Thanks much Dan.

I believe the design is called an "Adelaide." They worked the leather finish a fair bit from the near final version I posed a couple months ago. It turned out better than I had hoped.

I'll see how these go. I would like a pair in black calf - maybe with no medallion no the toe. The plain black oxfords are a tad hum drum...I really like the broguing on these. They would still be quite different from the Church's I have. Those seem so huge and extra long since I needed the width. Bespoke really seems to work for my short / wide feet... But a spendy proposition to be sure.

They are Adelaide’s and in fact I have a few pair but one specifically being one of my favorites.

Black dress shoes can look rather plain and for that reason many will choose Lowe priced black shoes or that reason. However there are a few shoemakers which make them look better than others. A lot of it s to do with the stitching or basically the pattern that in combination with the Last can really help make the shoe look a little more appealing. I choose to go with a pair of Edward Green Chelsea’s mainly due to known fit and their design is pretty nice. John Lobb probably has the best looking Black Cap Toes however with the Phillip IIs and City IIs.

The higher up the food chain the more refined the last. Of course in this case like you said they designed it specifically for you and yet they were able to also refine it a bit.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

Awesome shoes. The toebox came out much better than the mock up. Congrats!

Agreed! It might have simply been a miscommunication at the start. These are exactly what I was looking for.

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

Great looking shoes. Well done!

Much thanks!

Originally Posted by dddrees

They are Adelaide’s and in fact I have a few pair but one specifically being one of my favorites.

Black dress shoes can look rather plain an for that reason many will choose Lowe priced black shoes or that reason. However there are a few shoemakers which make them look better than others. A lot of it s to do with the stitching or basically the pattern.

The higher up the food chain the more refined the last. Of course in this case like you said they designed it specifically for you and yet they were able to also refine it a bit.

Ahh. Yours are nice as well.

Yes. Agree that in many cases, not a lot of reason to spend a ton on plain black shoes - unless you have weird feet like mine.

I would minimally get a punched cap toe oxford - and maybe some wild color for the lining on a black pair.

A pair of these Cleverleys in black would be nice - or maybe even a dark / dark blue.

I did make contact with Tony at G&G. They are doing a trunk show in my area in October I think. He said he'd let me know. G&G is a bit more expensive than Cleverley...but as you suggested, I may ask about their made-to-order Vs Bespoke.

There is a good video interview with G&G on You Tube via the Hanger Project channel. Nice factory tour...

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

Agreed! It might have simply been a miscommunication at the start. These are exactly what I was looking for.



Much thanks!



Ahh. Yours are nice as well.

Yes. Agree that in many cases, not a lot of reason to spend a ton on plain black shoes - unless you have weird feet like mine.

I would minimally get a punched cap toe oxford - and maybe some wild color for the lining on a black pair.

A pair of these in black would be nice - or maybe even a dark / dark blue.

I did make contact with Tony at G&G. They are doing a trunk show in my area in October I think. He said he'd let me know. G&G is a bit more expensive than Cleverley...but as you suggested, I may ask about their made-to-order Vs Bespoke.

There is a good video interview with G&G on You Tube via the Hanger Project channel. Nice factory tour...

Actually I personally did choose to pay more. I did because this being the mainstay or more formal shoe in my wardrobe. If you look again you’ll see them.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

Agreed! It might have simply been a miscommunication at the start. These are exactly what I was looking for.



Much thanks!



Ahh. Yours are nice as well.

Yes. Agree that in many cases, not a lot of reason to spend a ton on plain black shoes - unless you have weird feet like mine.

I would minimally get a punched cap toe oxford - and maybe some wild color for the lining on a black pair.

A pair of these Cleverleys in black would be nice - or maybe even a dark / dark blue.

I did make contact with Tony at G&G. They are doing a trunk show in my area in October I think. He said he'd let me know. G&G is a bit more expensive than Cleverley...but as you suggested, I may ask about their made-to-order Vs Bespoke.

There is a good video interview with G&G on You Tube via the Hanger Project channel. Nice factory tour...

Frankly G&G and Edward Green are my two favorites. Their Lasts work really well for me, I like a good majority of their designs, and I also like the way they finish their shoes.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Frankly G&G and Edward Green are my two favorites. Their Lasts work really well for me, I like a good majority of their designs, and I also like the way they finish their shoes.

Ah. I see the black pair you posted.

Yes. The G&G finishing is off the hook. Amazing. Minimally I hope to visit their trunk show...but I fear it will be a costly visit.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

Ah. I see the black pair you posted.

Yes. The G&G finishing is off the hook. Amazing. Minimally I hope to visit their trunk show...but I fear it will be a costly visit.

Edward Green is pretty much the same. The difference between the two pretty much comes to Lasts and patterns but really pretty much in the same ballpark. G&G Lasts are just more aggressive.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Edward Green is pretty much the same. The difference between the two pretty much comes to Lasts and patterns but really pretty much in the same ballpark. G&G Lasts are just more aggressive.

If I can make their show...we'll see if they have something that will work with my dogs. Substantial savings with their MTO program.

Here is the link to the G&G interview / tour:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30pvfyBNFMM

FWIW, I think Tony G. is wearing an Omega!

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

If I can make their show...we'll see if they have something that will work with my dogs. Substantial savings with their MTO program.

Here is the link to the G&G interview / tour:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30pvfyBNFMM

FWIW, I think Tony G. is wearing an Omega!

Great video, I hadn’t seen that one before. Must be fairly new I didn’t even know Kirby had established a relationship with G&G.

I was a bit disappointed Tony didn’t make a bigger point of why they actually didn’t use certain parts of the leather for the shoe vs just the lining. But I get why so not that big of a deal.

Here’s hoping you’ll have a chance to catch a Edward Green show soon.


Thanks for sharing.

[texasmade]

Originally Posted by Speed

I did make contact with Tony at G&G. They are doing a trunk show in my area in October I think. He said he'd let me know. G&G is a bit more expensive than Cleverley...but as you suggested, I may ask about their made-to-order Vs Bespoke.

There is a good video interview with G&G on You Tube via the Hanger Project channel. Nice factory tour...

FYI. Tony and Dean no longer do bespoke for G&G. It’s Daniel Wegan now doing the bespoke for G&G.

If you’re into Pierre Corthay shoes, Pierre no longer does bespoke for his company either. It’s an American guy named Parker.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by texasmade

FYI. Tony and Dean no longer do bespoke for G&G. It’s Daniel Wegan now doing the bespoke for G&G.

If you’re into Pierre Corthay shoes, Pierre no longer does bespoke for his company either. It’s an American guy named Parker.

Yes. Understood. I’ve seen interviews with Daniel. He’s the actual shoemaker right? If it’s only one guy, it’s no wonder their prices for Bespoke are what they are.

I’ll probably go back to Cleverley for Bespoke, but it would be fun to try made to order with G&G.

I’ll check out Pierre Corthay.

[blowfish89]

Got a good pic

[BigCFM]

Black/Blue on Blue

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[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

Yes. Understood. I’ve seen interviews with Daniel. He’s the actual shoemaker right? If it’s only one guy, it’s no wonder their prices for Bespoke are what they are.

I’ll probably go back to Cleverley for Bespoke, but it would be fun to try made to order with G&G.

I’ll check out Pierre Corthay.

The primary reason Edward Green no longer does Bespoke is because Tony is no longer with Edward Green. Pretty sure most shoemakers doing bespoke shoes have that one key person as well. John Lobb maybe one that is different but most of the others based on my limited knowledge are smaller shops and are known for that one key guy or at least that is my understanding.