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Old 24 October 2021, 11:28 PM   #1
Ichiran
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New Lange Zeitwerk Release

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-...oneygold-lumen

IMG_24102021_212448_(800_x_1080_pixel).jpg

IMG_24102021_212500_(800_x_1080_pixel).jpg

Limited to 200 pieces - Zeitwerk Honeygold "Lumen". Like it?



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Old 25 October 2021, 12:05 AM   #2
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Nice indeed but will beyond my budget


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Old 25 October 2021, 12:24 AM   #3
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Cool watch and this alloy sure is pretty.

Of course I immediately get fixated on the 5 and the 2 not being aligned...
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Old 25 October 2021, 12:35 AM   #4
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I’m a definite Lange fan and own several pieces - but for $55k more than the base Zeitwerk, they’re offering honey gold, a lumen dial and twice the power reserve - no complications. I think $145k is high for a time only piece, when compared to the sub $100k time only Richard Lange that has the Pour le Mérite movement, or the complicated Triple Split, for just another $20k more than this reference.

But in the words of the comedian, Dennis Miller: That’s just my opinion - and I could be wrong.
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Old 25 October 2021, 01:06 AM   #5
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Case dimensions seem to be **exactly** the same as the Gen 1 Zeitwerks (41.9 mm dia, 12.6 mm thick).

It’s a nice watch, but I personally prefer the base matte black dial over a smoky dial.
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Old 25 October 2021, 01:40 AM   #6
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I like it but way too expensive. Also wonder why they put a screwhead on the left and what looks to be a jewel on the right hand side between the power reserve and the sub seconds hand? My OCD has a hard time dealing with this.
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Old 25 October 2021, 02:35 AM   #7
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Emailed to purchase. Yolo.
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Old 25 October 2021, 04:01 AM   #8
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Looks like the big lume theme is making its way to ALS. I love it, sexy movement of course, yet agree Richemont's nearly bi-weekly limited edition release pricing is creeping quite a bit higher for all their company-owned brands like ALS, Panerai, etc. Imho it's a $70k timepiece at best, but that's jmho and am sure they'll sell every one at $145k.
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Old 25 October 2021, 04:06 AM   #9
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To be able to apply for the piece they request you purchase a high complication piece to buff up your application. Meaning bundling with a piece that costs close to or exceeds $200k. Makes the Rolex buy jewelry stuff look like nothing.
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Old 25 October 2021, 04:36 AM   #10
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To be able to apply for the piece they request you purchase a high complication piece to buff up your application. Meaning bundling with a piece that costs close to or exceeds $200k. Makes the Rolex buy jewelry stuff look like nothing.
You ain’t kidding. And at least Rolex doesn’t tank in value like ALS does. I love ALS and might pick up a new one next week but dang they are over priced. The current market proves that.
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Old 25 October 2021, 04:46 AM   #11
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Nice
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Old 25 October 2021, 05:18 AM   #12
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Interesting.
Price is high. Should have place it around $100k.
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Old 25 October 2021, 05:18 AM   #13
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You ain’t kidding. And at least Rolex doesn’t tank in value like ALS does. I love ALS and might pick up a new one next week but dang they are over priced. The current market proves that.

You can bet this one will not tank in value.


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Old 25 October 2021, 05:21 AM   #14
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You can bet this one will not tank in value.


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Agreed
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Old 25 October 2021, 06:23 AM   #15
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2 years before expected delivery

That’s a long wait
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Old 25 October 2021, 06:25 AM   #16
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It looks lovely but it’s priced way out of my league.
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Old 25 October 2021, 06:32 AM   #17
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Beautiful new version, love the lume. This will likely go for double in the grey market, imo.
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Old 25 October 2021, 06:55 AM   #18
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2 years before expected delivery

That’s a long wait
what's the point of even announcing that far ahead
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Old 25 October 2021, 07:22 AM   #19
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I like it but way too expensive. Also wonder why they put a screwhead on the left and what looks to be a jewel on the right hand side between the power reserve and the sub seconds hand? My OCD has a hard time dealing with this.
Ha! I wonder this same thing every time I see it. Love the brand, and like the model in spite of this, but it does stand out like a sore thumb.
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Old 25 October 2021, 07:44 AM   #20
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what's the point of even announcing that far ahead
Additional sales for the privilege to put a deposit down... Richemont is taking advantage of the easy money. From a business standpoint to maximize all aspects as much as possible, it makes sense.
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Old 25 October 2021, 08:29 AM   #21
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I agree it’s not cheap but with PP and AP charging insane sums for machine finished watches, maybe ALS is the wrong brand to call overpriced :)
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Old 25 October 2021, 10:49 AM   #22
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You can bet this one will not tank in value.


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I disagree. I do believe if the market tanks like in 2008, then most watches will go down in demand and value as well. ALS is a very niche brand. Outside of the watch community, very little people know about ALS. And they need to be careful about the way they go about with their business. I don’t think ALS has the same pedigree/recognition as Patek or AP to pull off the snobbish attitude of “buy 200k of our junks before we sell you a Odysseus or Zeitwerk”.
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Old 25 October 2021, 11:12 AM   #23
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I agree it’s not cheap but with PP and AP charging insane sums for machine finished watches, maybe ALS is the wrong brand to call overpriced :)
ALS does put some extra effort PP and AP don't in those companys' more mass-produced models. I'd rather have an ALS over the typical AP or PP of course.

Then again there's a voice whispering MB&F is the next go-to for top-end horological creativity.

Maybe the real question is, and everyone has their own answer, does your collection need yet another typical-cased standard layout movement? Does the ALS master something truly unique and horologically significant (to some extent)? Maybe. At $140,000 it had better impress imho as the landscape has much to offer at that price level.
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Old 25 October 2021, 11:53 AM   #24
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ALS does put some extra effort PP and AP don't in those companys' more mass-produced models. I'd rather have an ALS over the typical AP or PP of course.

Then again there's a voice whispering MB&F is the next go-to for top-end horological creativity.

Maybe the real question is, and everyone has their own answer, does your collection need yet another typical-cased standard layout movement? Does the ALS master something truly unique and horologically significant (to some extent)? Maybe. At $140,000 it had better impress imho as the landscape has much to offer at that price level.

Yeah I mean $100k is Gauthier/Kari range where you objectively get an impeccable watch.

The lumen however, is definitely something you could resell for over MSRP if you got bored :) At that price, it's still a no brainer. Only two have ever hit auction in the previous version.
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Old 25 October 2021, 12:10 PM   #25
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The lumens do come up for sale
I got my dato lumen used
I love the thing!
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Old 25 October 2021, 12:21 PM   #26
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The Zeitwerk is a very special watch, any version

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Yeah I mean $100k is Gauthier/Kari range where you objectively get an impeccable watch.

The lumen however, is definitely something you could resell for over MSRP if you got bored :) At that price, it's still a no brainer. Only two have ever hit auction in the previous version.
If Kari or Gaither could make a Zeitwerk type watch it would be twice the price of Lange’s. The Zeitwerk is a very complicated watch to pull off for any brand. There is a reason nobody else has been able to make a comparable watch. The IWC and Fpj digital watches pale in comparison and I don’t view them as remotely equal.
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Old 25 October 2021, 12:47 PM   #27
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Additional sales for the privilege to put a deposit down... Richemont is taking advantage of the easy money. From a business standpoint to maximize all aspects as much as possible, it makes sense.

Nailed it. Helps Richemont with their 3-year EPS projections too. The perils of being publicly owned
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Old 25 October 2021, 01:14 PM   #28
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I disagree. I do believe if the market tanks like in 2008, then most watches will go down in demand and value as well. ALS is a very niche brand. Outside of the watch community, very little people know about ALS. And they need to be careful about the way they go about with their business. I don’t think ALS has the same pedigree/recognition as Patek or AP to pull off the snobbish attitude of “buy 200k of our junks before we sell you a Odysseus or Zeitwerk”.

ALS makes ~5,000 watches a year; PP and AP probably each make 10x that.

not remotely comparable brands.
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Old 25 October 2021, 01:57 PM   #29
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Can’t go wrong with any ALS lumen, this one looks great but I personally would prefer white metal for the Zeitwerk since they are quite chunky so white flys under the radar a bit nicer imo
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Old 25 October 2021, 10:32 PM   #30
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Yeah I mean $100k is Gauthier/Kari range where you objectively get an impeccable watch.

The lumen however, is definitely something you could resell for over MSRP if you got bored :) At that price, it's still a no brainer. Only two have ever hit auction in the previous version.
But this is the most overpriced (in terms of premium to the standard non Lumen reference) Lumen ever. I get there is a different metal and a new movement but still, the starting point is high.

The other side of this is that in my opinion the ZW is the coolest Lumen iteration, maybe that is just because the ZW is so bloody cool to begin with.

I’m not in for this one, way too rich for me. Plus I already own Honeygold and a jumping hours / seconds….just in two different watches !
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