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Old 21 November 2017, 11:54 PM   #1
Archimede
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A lifetime watch: does it exist?

Dear all,

I know that when we talk watches each one of us has a sort of obsession.
My obsession is, since few years, to find a single watch that I would wear for all my life.
I know this is a bit absurd: the perfect watch is the next one right?
But well, nonetheless, I'd like to ask you some advice on this.
The watch I look for it should be a mix between sporty/elegant styles and should be a three hands, somehow like a field watch (as to say I don't like divers).

The exact features I look for are the following:

⁃ black/dark dial
⁃ white hands, luminous painting (as strong as possible)
⁃ minute hand should touch minutes track; minutes should be visible
⁃ screw down crown
⁃ screw down back
⁃ stainless steel bracelet; better with several holes for micro-regulation
⁃ a/r coating on top glass
⁃ >= 100 mt water resistant
⁃ COSC-like accuracy
⁃ diameter: between 36 and 39 mm (40 acceptable if not too thick)
⁃ thickness: between 10 and 12 mm

I already tried in my life the following watches, that for a reason or another didn't fit the bill:

Sinn 556A
- didn't find a fit with the bracelet (too little micro-adjustments)
- minute hand stays far from minutes track

Archimede Outdoor
- color mismatch between bracelet and case
- corrosion visible on bracelet, probably because of hardening
- minutes track not visible without orienting the watch in strange ways

Seiko SARG009
- didn't find a fit with the bracelet (too little micro-adjustments)
- non screw-down crown
- non a/r coating

Seiko SARB033
- didn't find a fit with the bracelet (too little micro-adjustments)
- non screw-down crown
- non a/r coating

Hamilton Khaki field automatic 38 mm
- didn't find a fit with the bracelet (too little micro-adjustments)
- non screw-down crown
- non a/r coating

Tudor Ranger
- just a tad too big (41 mm); perfect otherwise

Rolex Explorer
- too....Rolex; don't like people staring at my wrist
- not accurate as advertised (mine is +5sec/day)
- shiny bezel doesn't match with field style of the design

Rolex Oyster dark rhodium 39mm
- not very legible, both in light or dark conditions

In this list, the one that I prefer and that could have kept are the Ranger,
the Explorer and probably the Outdoor. Also the Khaki was quite ok...

So, my question: do you have in mind any possible watch for me?? :)

Thanks
A.
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Old 22 November 2017, 12:16 AM   #2
Lange
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Interesting question. I have thought about this too. For me it would be a SS daytona. For you I think the closest watch would be the Grand Seiko SBGH205. Its perfect. Lume is overrated.
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Old 22 November 2017, 12:33 AM   #3
rolex75216
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Datejust
Oyster Bracelet
Smooth Bezel
904L Stainless Steel

- Launched in 1945 as first watch with an automatic date movement.
- 36mm or 41mm is the perfect size for a man's watch.
- Has a fantastic price point offering huge value for the money.
- Looks very similar to the most expensive and iconic Rolex ever sold in the Day-Date.
- Has a Date with Cyclops.
- Can be worn in all occasions.
- Slim profile is extremely comfortable.
- The 904L Stainless Steel is the strongest and most durable metal choice for a Rolex watch.
- It has one of the most reliable and accurate movements every produced by Rolex.
- The DJ movement is one of the more simple movements to work on and very easy to service.
- Adjustable Oysterclasp bracelet is strong and has an Easylink 5 mm comfort extension.
- Time and Date are easy to read.
- Low key.
- Great luminescence.
- Fantastic customization with many dial choices and colors available.
- Lots of polish on the watch including the band center links which gives it a beautiful shine and appearance.
- Will stand the test of time, last forever, and will always be in style.
- Women love it!
- A Smooth Bezel and Oyster Bracelet configuration make it easy to remove light scratches with a Cap Cod Polishing cloth.
- No other watch in the Rolex lineup offers all of these features at such a good price point.
__________________
126300, 126610LN
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Old 22 November 2017, 01:03 AM   #4
Archimede
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Hallo
thanks for your suggestions.
I had a look on both and they are really great watches.
The Grand Seiko is something that I considered indeed; the fact it has no lume put me down, since I like using the watch also in bed or so...
The Rolex DJ 36 is something I've always loved: point is that is somehow still a lot .."Rolex"... I know, that's stupid to say :/
In any case, the visibility on my OP39 is not that good... Is there any dial combination that increases legibility?

I like also these two watches, that I've never tried:
- Tudor Heritage BB 36 mm, steel bracelet
- Omega AquaTerra 38 mm, dark dial

Please tell me what you think.
A
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Old 22 November 2017, 01:07 AM   #5
Archimede
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lange View Post
Interesting question. I have thought about this too. For me it would be a SS daytona. For you I think the closest watch would be the Grand Seiko SBGH205. Its perfect. Lume is overrated.
Regarding the SS Daytona: do you think this watch is versatile? I had always the feeling that is not the "useable" if you see what I mean.

Do you have experience with it?


A
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Old 22 November 2017, 02:45 AM   #6
Lange
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archimede View Post
Hallo
thanks for your suggestions.
I had a look on both and they are really great watches.
The Grand Seiko is something that I considered indeed; the fact it has no lume put me down, since I like using the watch also in bed or so...
The Rolex DJ 36 is something I've always loved: point is that is somehow still a lot .."Rolex"... I know, that's stupid to say :/
In any case, the visibility on my OP39 is not that good... Is there any dial combination that increases legibility?

I like also these two watches, that I've never tried:
- Tudor Heritage BB 36 mm, steel bracelet
- Omega AquaTerra 38 mm, dark dial

Please tell me what you think.

A
Grand Seiko has models with lume such as SBGR257. They also have divers with plenty of lume. GS is your best bet for your only watch in my humble opinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archimede View Post
Regarding the SS Daytona: do you think this watch is versatile? I had always the feeling that is not the "useable" if you see what I mean.

Do you have experience with it?


A
I am a huge fan of the daytona. I own the rose gold version. Its very versatile. It can be worn in any situation. Dress up or down. But if I only had to have one watch it would be the SS version since its lighter, more comfortable to wear. Full gold can be overwhelming sometimes.
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Old 22 November 2017, 09:24 AM   #7
mps354
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Iwc mark xvi?
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Old 22 November 2017, 09:28 AM   #8
osamu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archimede View Post

I like also these two watches, that I've never tried:
- Tudor Heritage BB 36 mm, steel bracelet
- Omega AquaTerra 38 mm, dark dial
These were the first 2 that came to mind. I've tried them on thinking I'd like the smaller size more than the bigger, but came away thinking I would probably just go with the bigger size (41mm) even on my small (6.5") wrist.

But either way, they sound like they should fit your criteria. I don't recall if the Aqua Terra comes with the Omega microadjust clasp, but I've heard you can buy it separately and people have fitted them to older models. I've heard great things about the Omega clasp.
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Old 22 November 2017, 06:27 PM   #9
Archimede
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Hallo

I had a look online and I like very much the GS SBGR257: thanks! Minor issues are: minute hand doesn't touch minutes track; it's a bit thick (13.5)... but a good call :)

Regarding IWC Mark XVI, does it also come on SS bracelet? Didn't find online...
BTW, WR is "only" 60 mt....

@osamu
Nice call about the clasp for the Omega: do you know if the standard modern clasp has just 2/3 micro-adjustments?

Out of discussion: why all brands are now doing these clasps without microadjustments?? I recall old Rolexes with so many holes in the clasp. Is this for aesthetic reasons? I don't see a real down side in have a more comfortable clasp...
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Old 22 November 2017, 06:33 PM   #10
Archimede
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@Lange

Of course I like the SS Daytona very much and is a sort of grail watch for me now (also for budget reasons). But I've the feeling that to be the "single" watch a chronograph is a bit too much, as to say..
Let me ask you a sort of personal question: don't you think that the Daytona is a real Rolex icon and people recognise it always? Doesn't this make the watch too "overstated" to be a safe all-day all-life watch? I can understand that each one has his own requirements on this...
Just curious
A
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Old 22 November 2017, 08:10 PM   #11
aleeboy
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Lifetime watches, for most, are an illusion. You think you have found the one, but you realise there are others that suit you better at a later point in time. Whilst this is not an unusual feeling, watches can be bought and sold easily - unlike a wife.
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Old 23 November 2017, 09:15 AM   #12
Archimede
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleeboy View Post
Lifetime watches, for most, are an illusion. You think you have found the one, but you realise there are others that suit you better at a later point in time. Whilst this is not an unusual feeling, watches can be bought and sold easily - unlike a wife.
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Old 23 November 2017, 04:22 PM   #13
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I’d say Jack and his DD was pretty much a lifetime watch.


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Old 23 November 2017, 04:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lange View Post
Interesting question. I have thought about this too. For me it would be a SS daytona. For you I think the closest watch would be the Grand Seiko SBGH205. Its perfect. Lume is overrated.


Sorry but with no date and the pretty useless chrono I don’t consider the Daytona a perfect everyday watch in any way. But that’s just me.


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Old 23 November 2017, 06:25 PM   #15
Archimede
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hi guys
do you think date is an essential complication for such lifetime piece?
I know that is very uncommon to be in love with a watch for all life... nonetheless I know a guy that had his Sub when he was 20 or so. He is a war photographer and went literally around the world always with the same watch.
He is now 60 and showed me once the sub: it is all scratched and have signs of wear but I was touched and Thought that I'd like to have such kind of binding with my watch.
Not lucky yet...
I've been in love with my speedy for 10 years, every day, but now is somehow finished..

A
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Old 23 November 2017, 09:08 PM   #16
Lange
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Originally Posted by gwalker View Post
Sorry but with no date and the pretty useless chrono I don’t consider the Daytona a perfect everyday watch in any way. But that’s just me.


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I love the watch itself. I don't even set the time on it. I don't love it because its "useful"
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Old 23 November 2017, 09:58 PM   #17
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Im pretty certain the vast majority of people own their one and only daily ... They don't come anywhere near TRF
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Old 26 November 2017, 02:07 AM   #18
jopek
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Try the IWC Engineer range.(New current series and recently discontinued Vintage Series)
Reasonably priced, and can always be repaired at the factory.
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Old 28 November 2017, 11:15 AM   #19
Humble michael
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The only one that really makes sense IMO is the iconic 5711 Patek stainless with white face. It is an heir loom to be passed on. Once you have one , promise all the ones mentioned will
Be a distant memory Ha! Just try one - if you don’t agree you can sell it and maybe even make a profit if you buy it right , james
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Old 28 November 2017, 06:49 PM   #20
htc8p
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it will last as long as you take care of it. if you polish the hell out of it nothing's gonna be left.

then again a rolex will last a lifetime compared to a swatch
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