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Old 15 April 2014, 02:27 PM   #1
eggplanty
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Picking out a Panerai

I own a Rolex Sub-C 116610 and an Omega Speedmaster 3750.50 and I'm thinking about selling off the Speedmaster and using the proceeds to get me started on my first Panerai. The thing about picking out a Panerai is that they seem to have quite a few products with an overwhelming amount of reference numbers compared to Rolex.

I want a watch that can go with a suit and I think I've narrowed it down to an IWC Portuguese chronograph or something from Panerai preferably around 42mm or 44 at most, I'm just not sure I can pull off one of the really huge watches. I'm trying to build a decent watch collection let me know what you think would work in a two watch collection with the Sub-C which I think I will never sell.
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Old 15 April 2014, 02:54 PM   #2
Cru Jones
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Take your time and enjoy the hunt.

For a suit, I would say a Rad is a good starting point to explore, as they tend to be thinner. 512/337/338/190/210.....

Though I often wear a 44mm Luminor with a suit (it's a Bettarini case model, so, it's thinner than a 1950s case model)....if you want to explore that side, too, try 000/005/111/112/176/177/390/510 etc., or 88/104/164 if you want an auto.
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Old 16 April 2014, 12:53 AM   #3
s14roller
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I'd say you will end up going for something like a 233 after going through a few initial models...do it once, do it right, IMO!
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Old 16 April 2014, 02:50 AM   #4
eggplanty
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I'm considering going for the Pam 510 or the Pam 005. I'm leaning towards them because I like the simple dial with just time and small seconds. There's just something about the simplified Panerai dials! Are there other Panerai products that have these simple dials, preferably around 44mm?

To me the newer in house movements like in the 510 add a lot of value to the watch. I'd be going from about 55 hours power reserve in the 005 to 8 days in the 510 which is a huge jump. Unfortunately it also adds quite a bit to the price and I think there is some value to having a trusty Unitas movement rather than a fairly new inhouse. So I suppose I'm favoring picking up a PAM 005 at this time. Thanks for your input guys!
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Old 17 April 2014, 04:42 AM   #5
rolex69
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the 05 is great
also look at the 111
classic hand wind and best of all sandwich dial
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Old 17 April 2014, 05:35 AM   #6
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Between the 005 and the 510, it would be the fiver without a doubt. I love the look of Panerai and I feel that's the biggest draw from the brand. Having an inhouse movement may add perceived value, but I feel it will actually increase your cost of ownership. You will rely on Panerai to service your watch, which if you believe the internet, they really aren't too good at.
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Old 17 April 2014, 05:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s14roller View Post
I'd say you will end up going for something like a 233 after going through a few initial models...do it once, do it right, IMO!
X2 If you could only have one I think the 233 is the way to go!
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Old 17 April 2014, 11:45 AM   #8
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Panerai watches are usually hard to fit under cufflinks and I'd say are more sporty than dress watches, especially the Luminors.

There are may models as you mentioned, I would define Radiomir or Luminor and take it from there, the what size & budget.

enjoy the hunt, I usually find it to be the most exciting part of a watch.
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Old 17 April 2014, 12:08 PM   #9
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As a IWC Portuguese Chronograph and PAM 121 owner, I'd say it will come down to more of a dressy classic look (IWC) or a slightly sportier look (PAM). But I think that you can pull off a PAM or an IWC in a suit, especially a smaller PAM.

Now if you do go with a PAM, the choices are definitely plentiful. First decision is a Radiomir (no crown guard) vs. Luminor (crown guard) style. Then decide on which size and complications you want. Panerai's watch finder is an excellent starting point. The only problem with it is that it doesn't show old models if you are looking pre-owned. Anyway I wanted a small Luminor chronograph, and had decided on a 72, 74, 121 or 122 because they have the El Primero movement and are 40mm. For my 6.5" wrist, it is perfect. When a 121 came up, I pounced. But as always, try a few on and see what sizes work well for you.
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Old 17 April 2014, 12:21 PM   #10
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If you're looking at anything other than the PaM 372 you're nuts. That's the one to have
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Old 17 April 2014, 02:10 PM   #11
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372 is fine if plexi is good for you.

But it is 47mm.

233 is hard to beat as is the 111. Check out both. 233 prices are coming down and pretty affordable.

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Old 17 April 2014, 02:30 PM   #12
eggplanty
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So the search continues... I went to a local preowned watch store and they had a few panerai including a 111 in great condition. He was asking $4500 for it but no box, no papers and an aftermarket strap. Not sure if that sounds reasonable to me.

I did see a lightly used IWC portuguese 5001 with black dial that I thought looked amazing on the wrist. It's a little more expensive than I initially budgeted for, but he's asking $8000 with box and papers. I know I like that watch a lot but I'm trying to think what will work better in a two watch collection with a rolex submariner... a Panerai 111 or the Portuguese auto. Any thoughts?
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Old 17 April 2014, 03:30 PM   #13
eggplanty
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I really love the sandwich dial but the painted one has it's own charm as well... I think for my first panerai I would want the sandwich dial though since it feels like their signature dial. Maybe if I get another I'll do a painted one.
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Old 17 April 2014, 07:18 PM   #14
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44 mm Luminor is a safe entry point for Panerai

My personal preference is for Marina models with a sandwich dial, but the Panerai range is huge so take your time as Cru suggested

If you are happy with a hand-winder the 111 is hard to overlook (see below), or the recent 510 with its 8 day in-house movement
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PAM111 hi-res.jpg (47.3 KB, 215 views)
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Old 17 April 2014, 11:46 PM   #15
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512 or 337/338
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Old 18 April 2014, 02:05 AM   #16
kilyung
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After having had a "few" PAMs, I'd redo it all over again like this... 372, 111, 233.
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Old 19 April 2014, 03:05 PM   #17
cger
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Definitely do some good research, there is a lot of quality problems with newer models and in-house movements. I would look into gently pre-owned model with 6497 or 7750 movement.
I still have one with 6497 I got back in the early 90's, running like a workhorse. And I owned many in past 20 years, I feel so bad reading all the stories with so many problems owners have with newer models.
Look into 111, 112 models. Stay away from new 1950 models like 312 etc, they are garbage.
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Old 19 April 2014, 03:14 PM   #18
Cru Jones
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cger View Post
Definitely do some good research, there is a lot of quality problems with newer models and in-house movements. I would look into gently pre-owned model with 6497 or 7750 movement.
I still have one with 6497 I got back in the early 90's, running like a workhorse. And I owned many in past 20 years, I feel so bad reading all the stories with so many problems owners have with newer models.
Look into 111, 112 models. Stay away from new 1950 models like 312 etc, they are garbage.


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Old 19 April 2014, 06:23 PM   #19
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I "personally" would definitely go with the 233, if you are looking for that never sell type of Pam.
Even though the 233 is 44 mm it wears much smaller on the wrist and will easily fit under a shirt and suit sleeve. With its 8 day in-house movement, sandwich dial and 1950 case, it would compliment your Sub-C quite well, I have the same combo. In the end , you have to go with the one that sings to you and remember that we are only giving you suggestions base on our experience and IMHO no one other than Panerai Quality Control can 100% say which models to stay away from based on timed research and facts, (they have all the data that we don't see) and not just by hearing stories of problems that Panerai ( may have fixed or not ). A problem that 16 owners may have experienced out of the 1000 watches produced in any given model might not have been experienced by the other 984 owners, so does that make it a GARBAGE model. There are members on here who have owned many Panerai watches over the years and they still purchased these newer garbage models.
So good luck and take each opinion with a grain of salt and do your own research.
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