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Old 19 December 2016, 05:38 AM   #301
jatco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edamato View Post
Hello. I don't know how to work this forum i am trying to buy my future son in law a watch winder for a rolex watch his dad bought for him. We know nothing about rolex and my daughter told us he needs a winder. Its a rolex oyster perpetual datejust if that makes sense. Help!Hello. I don't know how to work this forum i am trying to buy my future son in law a watch winder for a rolex watch his dad bought for him. We know nothing about rolex and my daughter told us he needs a winder. Its a rolex oyster perpetual datejust if that makes sense. Help!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanessa CW21 View Post
Don't buy a cheap winder. They can do more damage than good. Expect to pay over $100 for a good one. Wolfe Design sells good winders...

There are a lot of posts about winders on this forum. You can do a search on the homepage.
Good luck!

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Hello Edamato...
Being new to Rolex is an adventure in itself. You say "Its a rolex oyster perpetual datejust if that makes sense ".., which of course it does to those who know about them..- but, do you really need a watch winder..?? If he's going to wear the watch with any kind of regularity, you probably won't need a winder. Wearing it winds it. There are Many on this site who have numerous time pieces that don't use a winder. I don't..( tho I only have 2 that are mechanical..).. - Don't spend the money if you don't need to.. Just have him wear and enjoy the watch..!! If the winder is just for gift sake purposes.., then as Vanessa mentions, there are a lot of posts about winders..!
Good luck
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Old 21 February 2017, 12:06 AM   #302
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So is it worth to pay Rolex price to service a Tudor ETA 2824?

Very informative thread, I have learned a lot, thanks Vanessa!

So, a few months ago I purchased a vintage Tudor 74000N ("mini Ranger") circa 1998. The watch is mint, came with box and papers, like it was on a time capsule or rarely worn...Unfortunately no service records.

The watch keeps awesome time +1-2 secs/day, and the timegrapher data looks great. I even did a simple pressure test and it passed. From this data I can conclude it does not needs to be serviced but since it's a 19 year old watch I want to have it checked by a Pro...

Called my local Rolex certified watchmaker and they told me the service would be $600! Wow, this is quite steep for an ETA based watch! I mean I can source 2 new Top grade movements with this money... So, when the time for a service comes, what would you recommend? I have the choice of an alternative watchmaker, non Rolex certified that would charge much less...
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Old 31 March 2017, 07:04 AM   #303
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Wow! The post is a real eye opener. The service seems like a bargain now.

I agree with some of the other posters about a loaner watch while being serviced!
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Old 31 March 2017, 08:38 PM   #304
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Many thanks to @vanessa.cw21 who helped me with servicing my Tudor Chrono 79280p. The dial was also replaced with another original one.
She was great throughout the process (especially communication). Everything done was exactly how she described it here.
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Old 31 May 2017, 10:37 AM   #305
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Icon14 Rolex service

Amen your hired!
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Old 20 June 2017, 03:31 AM   #306
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Wow, that was a very informative post. The video is so interesting to watch!
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Old 20 July 2017, 02:01 PM   #307
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Can anyone advise if every gasket "must" be changed during service on a Sub, or is it ok if only worn gaskets are changed and the watch passes pressure check? Reason I ask is that my local watchmaker, who is Rolex trained and certified, finished servicing mine...only replaced the case back gasket, and said the other gaskets were in excellent condition (pliable, well lubricated, etc.).
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Old 20 July 2017, 10:39 PM   #308
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Gaskets (crown, case back, and crystal) should always be changed during service. They are very easy to replace and quite cheap. Even if they look ok they may have slight damage or deterioration. It is a very cheap insurance to prevent water or moisture from getting into the case and cause internal damage to you movement, dial or hands.
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Old 20 July 2017, 10:47 PM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uansari1 View Post
Can anyone advise if every gasket "must" be changed during service on a Sub, or is it ok if only worn gaskets are changed and the watch passes pressure check? Reason I ask is that my local watchmaker, who is Rolex trained and certified, finished servicing mine...only replaced the case back gasket, and said the other gaskets were in excellent condition (pliable, well lubricated, etc.).


Our watchmaker, a Rolex trained and CMW21 certified always changes all of the gaskets.



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Old 21 July 2017, 12:44 AM   #310
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Ok, thanks guys.
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Old 7 November 2017, 01:55 AM   #311
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Great info. Thank you to all for the detailed info.
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Old 17 November 2017, 08:57 AM   #312
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My GMT Master II Pepsi 16710 is on it's way to Vanessa, and due to arrive tomorrow for her to service. I'm so excited, and know my watch is in the best possible caring hands.
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Old 17 November 2017, 12:38 PM   #313
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it is a good question i also want to know about this
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Old 19 November 2017, 10:03 AM   #314
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1950 Rolex 5015 repair?

Hello folks! I am new to this forum, but have been on watchuseek for a few years now.

I have a 1950 Rolex ref. 5015 bubble-back.

If you pick it up it begins to run immediately.

If you wind it and lay it flat, it will keep near perfect time until it runs out of power.

If you wear it on your wrist, or lay it face down, it stops running.

I took it to my local repair guy. He took a pass on it, but called three other repair folks in the area he knew and they all took a pass on it as well.

Looking for a good solid, reputable rolex repair person who will not flinch at a 1950 model.

Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Thank you!
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Old 23 November 2017, 05:12 AM   #315
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Originally Posted by neilziesing View Post
Hello folks! I am new to this forum, but have been on watchuseek for a few years now.

I have a 1950 Rolex ref. 5015 bubble-back.

If you pick it up it begins to run immediately.

If you wind it and lay it flat, it will keep near perfect time until it runs out of power.

If you wear it on your wrist, or lay it face down, it stops running.

I took it to my local repair guy. He took a pass on it, but called three other repair folks in the area he knew and they all took a pass on it as well.

Looking for a good solid, reputable rolex repair person who will not flinch at a 1950 model.

Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Thank you!
Have you tried contacting Rolex USA in Lititz Pennsylvania, if i remember correctly they do have a restoration atelier there. Also sending the watch to Geneva to Rolex might be a option. Although the price repairing watch this old might be high.
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Old 1 February 2018, 11:21 AM   #316
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Watch service

Wow that's amazing work you do Vanessa. Keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 1 February 2018, 12:07 PM   #317
jatco
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Wow that's amazing work you do Vanessa. Keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing.
..From other posts Re- Vanessa and her skills, - I'd certainly would recommend her for service...! - She's On the Ball........!! (JMO..)..!
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Old 9 February 2018, 10:18 AM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanessa CW21 View Post
Some common questions I hear a lot: "What does a service include?" "Why does it cost so much?" "How long does it take to service a Rolex?"
I'm sorry if the answer is a bit long, but this is what, why and how long:




This is what I do when I service a RolexÖ.

I open the case and remove the rotor.
I remove the movement from the case. I continue to take off the hands and remove the dial and date disc. The mainspring gets unwound and at this point the movement goes into the cleaner.

I continue with taking the case apart; removing the bezel, and crystal.
I change into a different lab coat, put on gloves and a face mask to start the refinishing of the case and bracelet.
First I buff the case with a hard wheel and a certain compound which makes the case so hot that the wheel starts smoking. I then clean the case in the ultrasonic cleaner and continue with a different polishing wheel thatís softer. I will high-polish the bezel and case back and the bracelet if applicable.
Once the case back is clean in the ultrasonic, I will now high-polish that one as well.
I will change the polishing wheel once more to a soft wheel and again a different compound and give it the finishing super high polish on the parts needed.
While all those finished parts are in the cleaner, I will brush polish the clasp with a hard wheel, followed by a softer brush wheel.
Then I tape off the polished areas on the bracelet to brush-polish the rest of it. When thatís done I change back to the high-polish wheel to polish the side of the bracelet and clasp.
I steam clean all the parts of the case and put them on a dryer. Once the case is dry, I put the final brush polish to the lugs and case back with a special filing technique.


The movement (letís say a 3135) has finished the pre-cleaning process, and can now be checked and disassembled.
The date parts are first, flowed by the automatic mechanism: I first check the end-shake* on all wheels.
I then take out all (3) screws and put them in the small cleaning baskets. I will check the rotor axle and replace it when necessary. I continue with the disassembling of the movement.
I first check the end-shake on the balance wheel. Then I remove the shock-absorbent jewels. The balance wheel is carefully removed and put aside after I unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the bridge in place. I proceed with the pallet fork. Again I check end-shake and remove 2 screws to take off the bridge and remove the pallet fork. At this point I check the freedom of the train with winding the mainspring just a little bit. Then I check all the gearsí end-shakes and remove the 3 screws that hold the train bridge to remove the escape wheel, second wheel, third wheel and great wheel. I then check every wheel meticulously to check for worn pivots, and replace the one that are not perfect anymore with new ones.
When at any moment the end-shake wasnít satisfactory I then move the jewels up or down to correct the error and reassemble the wheel to check again until it's perfect.
I proceed with removing the screws on the ratchet wheel and bridge to remove the barrel with the mainspring. Now I can open the barrel and remove the mainspring which goes straight into my garbage can.
I proceed with taking the rest of the watch apart, including the winding mechanism. I put the balance back onto the main plate to prevent the hairspring from getting tangled up while itís cleaning.
Now the disassembled movement goes into the cleaner again to get its full cleaning. In the mean time Iíll have a coffee, and I will assemble the case with crystal and bezel.

When the movement is clean I put on some finger cots, and start with putting the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel into a special liquid lubricant.
I apply grease on the inside of the barrel wall and put a new mainspring in it. I close the barrel and check the end-shake of the arbor to make sure itís free.
I continue with taking the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel out of the special lubricant and dry them with hot air from a hairdryer. Now I can take the balance back of the main plate and start putting the watch back together. Again the watch has 6 different lubricants and every lube has a very specific role into making the watch run as perfect as possible. When a grease or oil gets applied too much or too little, or at the wrong location within the watch, the amplitude and timing of the watch wonít be as it should.
Once the watch is assembled (and Iím not going to explain every single step as this is already getting way to long) I put it on my timer to check the beat, amplitude and time. Everything gets adjusted accordingly if necessary and I time the watch in 6 different positions to be within -1 to +4.

Once thatís achieved I assemble the dial and hands (when the date jumps at 12) and put the movement in the case. At this time I do the final timing at full wind and half wind, and adjust if necessary.
Then I assemble the automatic mechanism and check for freedom of the rotor.

Once thatís all up to standard, I close the case with new gaskets and put it on a dry pressure test. When it passes (or not) I proceed with the wet test, and make sure the watch doesnít leak.
I can then put the bracelet on, set the time equal to my atomic clock and store it in my safe with the crown left, until the next day.
Then I check the time again compared to the atomic clock and note the amount of seconds itís + or -.
Then I put it on my automatic winder for a day, check again and finally I put it dial up in my safe again to check the next day, and the day thereafter to see when the watch stopped to check the power reserve.
At this time, if everything is within standards I call the customer that his/her watch is ready. If not, I have to find the problem, possibly adjust or start over! This all comes with a 2-year warranty on the work performed.

The tools and materials needed to work on Rolex watches and to keep the account in positive standing are about a $30,000 investment. Plus we have to maintain them and pay rent for the work space. I have gone to a 3-year full-time watchmaking school and undergone many hours of specialized training to do this job.

So now, letís seeÖ hmmm I guess the four hundred-something dollars I charge might not be enough if I think about itÖ


*end-shake: the free longitudinal movement of arbors or the like between bearings.
That means I have to evaluate the amount of movement of a wheel between the jewels. Some can be 0.01mm others 0.02 up to 0.06mm. This can only be determined by the experienced, and louped watchmaker's eye!


Vanessa

Great stuff! Thank you for posting this
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