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Old 12 July 2014, 07:16 PM   #1
kanikune
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Service of Rolex ref.6532 cal. 1030

This is where my watch hobby started little less than 2 years ago, when I turned 30. At then I decided it would be nice to be able to service my own watch. Back then my initial knowledge of mechanical watches was close to zero. (I say close to zero, not zero, because I knew Rolex brand.) During this period I have learned that watchmaking indeed is very challenging hobby or profession. My hat is off to you watchmakers!



Caseback reveals caliber 1030, properly matured.



At first I disassemble the whole autowinding unit as succested by Rolex sercive manual.


After removing autowinding unit one transmission wheel is left behind, which can be just lifted off the movement.


Before anything else I remove tension from the mainspring.


Closeup reveals the necessity of the service.


Dial and hands to a safe.


Dial side of movement hides also option for the date ring. -Maybe one day.


I remove balance from it's bridge, as I have plans for it.


Pallet and pallet bridge.


Center seconds is implemented by extra wheel on 3rd wheel. Thin spring is holding seconds arbor in place. The lack of specific bridge for the seconds arbor makes movement thinner. Movement has shock protection also for the escape wheel.


Seconds driver off.


In the past someone has tightened the barrel bridge with hammer. That's wrong!


With this movement I get the same feel of the low profile as e.g. with the Omega 56x.


I take off the balance spring from the balance wheel, as I intend to improve balance wheel pivots.


It's easy to notice, on which side the watch has been held more.


After the modifications.


Rest of parts off from the mainplate excluding cap jewels.


Next to adjusting the autowinding unit.


Oscillating weight carries the bearing with it.


Autowinding bridge has two reverser wheels and transmission wheel.


Between the reversers a nice surprise is found. Did I mention I purchased this watch from eBay?


Before cleaning the parts I assemble the balance wheel assembly back together and visually adjust the beat where it should be.
Notice increased jewel count. 1030 does not have lower jewel for the center wheel. Movement in this age desperately needs one. Also all the other jewels with too much side shake are replaced and end shakes are adjusted.


Crown gasket is removed before cleaning cycle.


Also vintage automatic cleaning machine does the tricks.


After the cleaner!


At first I put in upper balance jewels. I only use synthetic oils, like Moebius 9010, 9415, 1300.


..and to the balance tack to wait for the after party.


I insert the stem, setting lever and screw.


Train bridge just falls into its place. New mainspring is in the barrel.


Barrel bridge back in.


Next job is to complete keyless works to test the backlash. Later escape wheel gives nice "rebound".


I insert Cannon pinion with jeweling tool, as I don't want to move the jewel unintentionally.


Yoke spring back where it should be.


Keyless works completed. Later I have to disassemble these to be able to support 3rd wheel to install seconds wheel.


Initial reading is very pleasing. For those not aware of the amplitude: Swiss movement should have over 270 degree amplitude in horizontal positions.


By centering the regulator the rate gets where it should be. Luckily the beat is spot on without need for any adjusting.


Now it's time for the autowinding unit.


This is taken while "still dirty", but gives idea of the reverser wheel operation. The "shark fin" inside the wheel is riveted to the outer body. Inside the body of the wheel there are two floating pieces. The upper pinion carriers two slips, that come to contact with "floaters". When upper pinion is rotating counter clockwise, floating objects can move freely, but when turning upper pinion clockwise, floating pieces jam to the shark fin pattern and outer body is forced to turn to the same direction.


Autowinding bridge completed and oiled.


For the final assembly I once again take off the mainspring tension and take off the stem.


The dial returns.


Hands. Second's hand needed to be inserted with support to the bottom, as the weak spring could not support the seconds arbor enough.


Back to the case. In the background old gasket of the crown tube.


Assembling the oscillating weight. The axle riveted to is has small slots, that prevents the driver wheel to turn freely.


Back together.


I assemble the autowinding unit before putting it back to the mainplate.


I oil the lower jewel for the barrel driver wheel as it's still possible.


Assembled.


With some time frame I intend to renew the crown, tube and crystal, but for now everything is good.


Afterwards it easy to say, that initially I had really naiive thought of how easy this would be. There's lot of theory, un-hurry approach and motoric skills that need to be mastered before able to service your own watch even at some acceptable level. Little unreal feeling, now that this is done, I'm very happy with the final result.
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Old 12 July 2014, 10:54 PM   #2
andromeda160
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this makes me want to buy me some tools so much more, not many get that kind of bonding experience with their watch


very nice walk through too!
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Old 15 July 2014, 09:18 AM   #3
rmfnla
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Unbelievable!

I have played with my DJ a bit (change bezels and crystals, removed the movement from the case and the rotor assembly from the movement) but nothing like this; I salute you!

BTW, you said your improved the balance wheel pivots; what did you do to them and why?
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Old 15 July 2014, 09:47 AM   #4
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If this is a hobby what kind of attention do you devote to your profession?
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Old 15 July 2014, 01:19 PM   #5
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Love these threads.

Whenever something says "made in Finland"... I KNOW it's GTG, and this is a prime example why!
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Old 15 July 2014, 05:29 PM   #6
kanikune
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Thank you all for the kind words.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmfnla View Post
BTW, you said your improved the balance wheel pivots; what did you do to them and why?
I'll get back to this picture. The pivot on the left is the one that is towards caseback in movement. This gets most wear as many times watch is stored caseback facing to the table. Pivot tip should be rounded, as can be seen on the right pivot.


A device called Jacot tool can be used to polish pivots and shape tips of the pivots. In the picture balance is setup for the rounding. Bow is used to manually rotate the balance wheel back and forth. On the left side of the balance wheel in the disc there is proper whole, which takes in the pivot. Pivot extends over the disc where the manipulation can be done with burnisher.
Different left piece is used when pivot sides are polished. This should be done for all the pivots in the service!
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Old 16 July 2014, 01:39 AM   #7
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Oh, got it; the photos weren't detailed enough to show that. I assume rounding the pivot end reduces friction due to the smaller bearing surface..?

Also, WTF was that "surprise" between the reversers and how do you think it got in there..?
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Old 16 July 2014, 01:51 AM   #8
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Correct.

Maybe the watch was serviced "to be sold" by some amateur :D
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Old 16 July 2014, 01:58 AM   #9
rmfnla
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Gotta love the 'bay!

Thanks for taking the time to shoot the photos for this; that's always the hardest part because you have to break your concentration, shoot the shots, and then get back into "watch repair" mode...
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Old 16 July 2014, 02:20 AM   #10
Kobayashi
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Thanks for sharing and posting this. I'm enrolling in the TZ watch courses and will be working on 2824 ETA movements and will slowly build my way to work on the 3000 series Rolex movements. It's a great hobby. I appreciate the time you devoted in sharing your work.
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Old 8 July 2015, 10:48 AM   #11
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Thanks Kanikune,

For great post. For this level of service I will still let someone else do the heavy lifting but you encouraged me to unscrew the back and regulate it which was instant gratification!


Quote:
Originally Posted by andromeda160 View Post
this makes me want to buy me some tools so much more, not many get that kind of bonding experience with their watch


very nice walk through too!
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Old 8 July 2015, 11:08 AM   #12
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And you've gone from knowing nothing about mechanical watches to this point in two years? My hat is off to you, sir!
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Old 8 July 2015, 11:35 AM   #13
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Very remarkable post!

What was that furball you found inside? Filaments from a microfiber cloth or a q-tip?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 8 July 2015, 08:38 PM   #14
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Great post!!
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Rolex uses rare elves to polish the platinum. They have a union deal and make like $90 per hour and get time and half on weekends.
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Old 12 July 2015, 06:28 AM   #15
kanikune
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Hard to tell the origin of the fibers, but the fiber furball was tied around one of the pivots in autowinding mechanism. I think previously the autowinding mechanism wasn't disassembled during service and before that the watch had to have been exposed to elements for some time.
That sized furball indeed is a big surprise in a watch..

Quote:
Originally Posted by 77T View Post
Very remarkable post!

What was that furball you found inside? Filaments from a microfiber cloth or a q-tip?


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Old 28 August 2015, 03:07 AM   #16
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WoW just WoW
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Old 28 August 2015, 03:50 AM   #17
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Yes, great thread, I am not going to try it myself
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Old 18 February 2016, 02:19 AM   #18
Nexus5
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Fantastic!
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Old 18 February 2016, 07:11 PM   #19
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Really nice job! Congratulations. Envious for several beautiful tools!! Hahaha
Thanks for sharing!!
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Old 18 February 2016, 07:41 PM   #20
Amme
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wow good job!
I've yet to try my Rolex movements cuz I have difficulty drying the movements without getting corrosion :(
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Old 27 July 2018, 08:15 PM   #21
bar0947
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The schematic in the picture blurs when I blow it up. Can you email me a copy and also a parts list if you have it. My watch has a stripped gear that works with the auto wind that I am trying to replace.

Thank you
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