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23 January 2017, 01:35 PM | #1 |
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Bezel inlay change
Hi U wonderful lot!
I am contemplating a change of bezel inlay on my Tudor 7021/0 and have bought a second hand 5513 inlay for the purpose. I have seen a number of post's and youtube videos on the subject and it generally looks like a breeze. So my question. Is it really that easy, and what risk am I taking by doing this homestyle? Its not that I really mind taking it to a repair guy, but the inlays are visually quite different so I am tempted by the option of going by my mood and (perhaps) change them fairly frequent. Appreciate any qualitative feedback with thanks! |
24 January 2017, 12:43 AM | #2 |
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Going back years ago, I have distroyed a couple inserts and bent a couple bezels trying to learn how to properly install an insert. But you live and learn...
A couple of key points. 1. Use a corner of a table or desk, wood preferably because it's softer and more forgiving. 2. Use tape to protect the bezel and insert from scratches. 3. Make sure to put pressure on the outer edge only to snap the insert into the bezel 4. If you flatten the insert, it will never fit, because the outter edge will become too large to fit in the bezel ring, the slight bend inserts have is what creates the tension for the pressure fit. 5. last which is the most important. The most delicate area of the entire insert is the pearl area because of the hole that's drilled to take the pearl. This area is most fragile and if you place pressure there you will bend it and create stress marks on that area, or worse, you will crack it in that area. So make sure to place that pearl area inside the bezel first, the work your way around on the solid parts of the insert. Hope this info helps. Good luck and make sure to post before and after pics. |
24 January 2017, 01:20 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
Still considering, but thanks! |
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24 January 2017, 01:23 AM | #4 |
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Thanks a lot for the pointers...still wondering if I dare potentially screwing up a perfect 7021 and two equally perfect inlays, not to mention the bezel. Still considering, but thanks!!
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24 January 2017, 01:30 AM | #5 |
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If you have never installed one it can be very tricky. Take it to a watchmaker and it would cost $20 or less.
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24 January 2017, 02:15 AM | #6 |
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Good advice above. Sometimes it is indeed a breeze. Sometimes it's a thumb-breaking nightmare. Proceed with caution! Good luck.
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24 January 2017, 02:34 AM | #7 |
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^^*agree. Subkings post above is solid. I use a case knife for removal. Most of the time I have had little difficulty but I have also given up out of fear of breaking a fat font insert. Ended up going to the WS and he has a custom made tool for snapping the inert in. For whatever reason my Maxi Sub was a real PITA. I bought the mkiii insert second hand and while in good shape it was a little flattened out and was impossible for me to snap in by hand. WS got it in seconds with his tool and press.
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24 January 2017, 02:49 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
I wish I had the proper setup along with this attachment. My thumbs would be so much happier. |
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24 January 2017, 03:08 AM | #9 |
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No bezels are bigger nightmares to work with than the coined edge bezels found on 5508 and 6538 Or all no crown guard subs.. the metal is SO thin on the edge of the bezel and they are shallow.. so much can go wrong with those.. I get sick just thinking about working with em.
They also have to be done by hand due to the fragile nature. So much finesse involved When working with these old parts. It's something that can't be explained. Through experience you learn the tensions and tolerances of these old parts.. i.e. how far you can push them, when to back off and how to handle them. Sometimes if something isn't working out, it's simply because you don't have the right tools to use As someone else mentioned above for removing the bezel, for sure you will need a case back knife covered well with tape, not clear tape either, painters tape works well, more than one layer. Try not to pry up to much, slide it under a lug and a slight wiggle it should pop right off. Finesse is all I can say |
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