Which Lange Söhne to choose?

[diadass]

I would like to hear your opinions on which Lange to choose. Here is some background info: I have a rather large wrist, my daily wear is PAM 233 with 44mm csuhion case, and for leisure activities and weekends I wear IWC Aquatimer Charles Darwin of the same size. I have come to conclusion that I need a dress watch and I want a Lange. Because of my wrist size, I had to eliminate all models under 38 mmm; my budget is approx. 18-20K euros. I do not mind pre-owned if it is in good shape and with box and papers, I like complications if possible, and the watch should be preferably located in the EU. Having said all this, shortlisted were pre-owned Lange 1 (38,5 mm) and brand new 1815 Auf und Ab (39 mm) found through Chrono24. Today, I have tried both of these watches at AD and liked the 1815 much better, even though Lange 1 is an icon with more conplicated movement. At first, I liked the rose gold model better but now I am inclining towards white gold. Any advises, comments or so? Have I overlooked some models? Would you prefer pre-owned Lange 1 over new 1815 Auf/Ab or the other way round? White or rose gold? Is any of this more delicate in terms of possible scratches and their visibility? Thanks for any advise and comments!

[ap1]

I’d pick the up down too . Looks like a chrono without the pushers. White or Rose are great.
If it’s mostly special occasion I’d do rg but if will
Make the Rotation and worn weekly I’d say wg

[PJ S]

Originally Posted by diadass

I would like to hear your opinions on which Lange to choose.

Here is some background info: I have a rather large wrist, my daily wear is PAM 233 with 44mm csuhion case, and for leisure activities and weekends I wear IWC Aquatimer Charles Darwin of the same size. I have come to conclusion that I need a dress watch and I want a Lange.

Because of my wrist size, I had to eliminate all models under 38 mmm; my budget is approx. 18-20K euros. I do not mind pre-owned if it is in good shape and with box and papers, I like complications if possible, and the watch should be preferably located in the EU. Having said all this, shortlisted were pre-owned Lange 1 (38,5 mm) and brand new 1815 Auf und Ab (39 mm) found through Chrono24.

Today, I have tried both of these watches at AD and liked the 1815 much better, even though Lange 1 is an icon with more conplicated movement. At first, I liked the rose gold model better but now I am inclining towards white gold.

Any advises, comments or so?
Have I overlooked some models?
Would you prefer pre-owned Lange 1 over new 1815 Auf/Ab or the other way round?
White or rose gold?
Is any of this more delicate in terms of possible scratches and their visibility?

Thanks for any advise and comments!

We need to get you up to speed on layout for ease of readability!

No matter the colour of the gold, they’re all relatively soft and therefore more prone to picking up and displaying scratches.
In the other thread, which I’m glad to see you took the hint, I asked if you were only looking at these two models or open to others.
Given your budget, and allowing for a slight bit of creep, as well as noting your mention of a larger wrist, I wonder if a Saxonia AC, with the extra complications and a midi-rotor might appeal more.
I suppose it’ll depend on how you define the term dressy watch.

Similarly the 40mm Saxonia Moonphase with Big Date.

If you were to look at the watch as pure dressy, and not for semi-casual use too, then you could consider the boutique-only Saxonia Thin with its unique copper-blue dial.

As to the two you’ve mentioned, the 1815 with its blued hands is hard to ignore but, of course, the Lange 1 is an iconic model, and of the two movements it has had, the original is perhaps slightly nicer, but the current one has some novel features you may prefer to have.

Now, for a bit of a curve ball… if you like low volume, Glashutte-made, manual wind, hand finishing, and possibly more suitable for your wrist size, then take a good look at Moritz Grossmann pieces.

[diadass]

Thanks a lot for comments. I kind of agree with rose gold for special occasions and white gold in case of a regular rotation with other watches.

As for the other models: Saxonia AC is way too beyond the budget. The moonphase could be an option but I definitely prefer a white dial, since both of the other watches I have do have a black dial. I have tried the Saxonia thin model, although in a smaller case, and I think my wrist needs something more substantial but I can give it a try.

As for the Lange 1, the movement is the main reason why I have not bought the 1815 up and down yet. On the other hand I had the feeling that Lange 1, when on my wrist, is making me considerably older, being perfect rather for elderly gentlemen, while 1815 was feeling more modern and adequate for a chap in his mid forties like me.

[diadass]

Oh, and thanks for the Moritz Grossmann hint, I will have a look! (Intitially, I have included Dornblüth into my thoughts as well, but later I came to conclusion that it cannot be matched with Lange, no matter how big a fan of Dirk I may be).

[BrazenC5]

Second the Saxonia moonphase white gold / argente (silver) dial.

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[Justindo]

I don't think you'd go wrong with Lange. I like the idea of the 1815 Up Down in pink gold for a special occasion watch.

[JR16]

Originally Posted by diadass

Thanks a lot for comments. I kind of agree with rose gold for special occasions and white gold in case of a regular rotation with other watches.

As for the other models: Saxonia AC is way too beyond the budget. The moonphase could be an option but I definitely prefer a white dial, since both of the other watches I have do have a black dial. I have tried the Saxonia thin model, although in a smaller case, and I think my wrist needs something more substantial but I can give it a try.

As for the Lange 1, the movement is the main reason why I have not bought the 1815 up and down yet. On the other hand I had the feeling that Lange 1, when on my wrist, is making me considerably older, being perfect rather for elderly gentlemen, while 1815 was feeling more modern and adequate for a chap in his mid forties like me.

I’m early 40s and went w Lange 1 as my first Lange. 1815 u/d was my second choice and it was really hard to decide. And I’m a casual dresser. I assumed I would add it at some point but now I’m thinking of saving for a little while longer and getting the 1815 chrono.


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[Plai]

We are about the same age, and I picked up a new 1815 up/down 2 years ago. It’s a nice piece, but gets little wrist time. I still have not gotten accustomed to winding it, so I have been caught wearing it with the wrong time.
I contemplated between this and the Saxonia moonphase. I should have gone with the latter because it was automatic.
Here is a pic of my Lange. My wrist is 6.5”.




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[cascavel]

1815 auf/ab. I have the 3 hand 1815 in white gold and, because of the thin rounded bezel, it does not attract scratches. A superb watch with unparalleled legibility, ease of winding and comfort of wear.

[Slider817]

For a larger wrist, if you are willing to spend a little more, the Richard Lange line is worth considering. I am very happy with my Richard Lange

[Watcheroo]

Of the choices you’re considering, sounds like you want the 1815 up/down. Go for it. Great watch

[ts3]

Also thinking about getting what would be my first Lange.

I like the Lange 1 but I am a little worried I wouldn't wear it much in the end. I run around very casual most of the time and generally prefer "less is more" when it comes to design and style in my life. The Datograph, for example, is not for me no matter how gorgeous it is from a movement perspective.

At this point I am leaning Saxonia Thin 37mm in rose gold to get my feet wet, and also to contrast my simple platinum Calatrava. Not ready to pull the trigger just yet though.

Curious what you'll end up deciding...

[diadass]

Thanks for all the comments. A think I will end up with 1815 up and down, but have not decided about the gold yet, slightly inclining towards white.

[diadass]

Sorry for belated update. In the end, I completely changed my mind :)) and ended up with Lange 1. The main reason for choosing Lange 1 was the research I made. The more I read about ALS and its history and post 90s restart, the more I admired this iconic piece. 1815 up and down is a gorgeous piece that looks “traditional”, it simply matches the mainstream expectations of what a perfectly crafted watch should look like. The Lange 1, on the other hand, looks odd at first sight, one really needs time to fully appreciate how elaborate it is and that there is a strict harmony behind the avant-garde face. There is (or at least was in time of its birth) no watch looking like the Lange 1, it is an untimely legend. Moreover, you also get a highly sophisticated beautiful movement of 365 pieces with complications. So these were the thoughts that led me to acquire the Lange 1in pink gold. I found a great pre-owned piece with a deployant buckle for a right price, and I am extremely happy with my choice. I will post some pics later.

[mongrelnomoad]

Originally Posted by diadass

Sorry for belated update. In the end, I completely changed my mind :)) and ended up with Lange 1. The main reason for choosing Lange 1 was the research I made. The more I read about ALS and its history and post 90s restart, the more I admired this iconic piece. 1815 up and down is a gorgeous piece that looks “traditional”, it simply matches the mainstream expectations of what a perfectly crafted watch should look like. The Lange 1, on the other hand, looks odd at first sight, one really needs time to fully appreciate how elaborate it is and that there is a strict harmony behind the avant-garde face. There is (or at least was in time of its birth) no watch looking like the Lange 1, it is an untimely legend. Moreover, you also get a highly sophisticated beautiful movement of 365 pieces with complications. So these were the thoughts that led me to acquire the Lange 1in pink gold. I found a great pre-owned piece with a deployant buckle for a right price, and I am extremely happy with my choice. I will post some pics later.

Enjoy it in good health! I have a Lange 1 Moonphase in platinum, and there is nothing else like...

[Pongster]

Originally Posted by mongrelnomoad

Enjoy it in good health! I have a Lange 1 Moonphase in platinum, and there is nothing else like...

Plus one on the Lange in Pt



I also like the Zeitwerk in Pink Gold. And the Datograph Flyback.


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[diadass]

Thanks! Here it goes, three older photos.

[Russell996]

Originally Posted by diadass

Thanks! Here it goes, three older photos.

[sgwatch]

Beautiful! That was my first Lange 20 years ago! Wear it in good health!

[le_baron]

Originally Posted by diadass

Sorry for belated update. In the end, I completely changed my mind :)) and ended up with Lange 1. The main reason for choosing Lange 1 was the research I made. The more I read about ALS and its history and post 90s restart, the more I admired this iconic piece. 1815 up and down is a gorgeous piece that looks “traditional”, it simply matches the mainstream expectations of what a perfectly crafted watch should look like. The Lange 1, on the other hand, looks odd at first sight, one really needs time to fully appreciate how elaborate it is and that there is a strict harmony behind the avant-garde face. There is (or at least was in time of its birth) no watch looking like the Lange 1, it is an untimely legend. Moreover, you also get a highly sophisticated beautiful movement of 365 pieces with complications. So these were the thoughts that led me to acquire the Lange 1in pink gold. I found a great pre-owned piece with a deployant buckle for a right price, and I am extremely happy with my choice. I will post some pics later.

Congratulations! I'm on the hunt for the deployant for my Lange 1, hopefully I'll have one soon too.

[diadass]

Originally Posted by le_baron

Congratulations! I'm on the hunt for the deployant for my Lange 1, hopefully I'll have one soon too.

Thanks! There are some available on Chrono24 but I assume you are aware of them.

[myporsche]

Originally Posted by diadass

Thanks! Here it goes, three older photos.

Beautiful choice, looks great on the wrist, congratulations!

[diadass]

Thanks!

[RollieKid]

Originally Posted by diadass

Thanks!

Stunning

Big congrats.

[le_baron]

Originally Posted by diadass

Thanks! There are some available on Chrono24 but I assume you are aware of them.

I'm having trouble finding the 16mm yellow gold deployant. I haven't seen one of them on Chrono or the fora. Govberg/WatchBox had one on eBay but after I inquired about the size of it (the listing didn't specify whether if it was 16 or 18 mm) they told me they sold it and forgot to remove the eBay listing

[AK797]

Beautiful, enjoy!

[myporsche]

Originally Posted by le_baron

I'm having trouble finding the 16mm yellow gold deployant. I haven't seen one of them on Chrono or the fora. Govberg/WatchBox had one on eBay but after I inquired about the size of it (the listing didn't specify whether if it was 16 or 18 mm) they told me they sold it and forgot to remove the eBay listing

You can just have the boutique order it when they reopen. No need to scour the internet for it when you can get it direct for about the same price.