Cape Cod polishing cloth, did I use it right?

[watchf]

I am aware that cape cod works by removing a micro nano surface of metal/gold in order to remove any scratches but is there a trick to using cape cod polishing cloth?

I tried it on the PCL of a TT although it sort of removed some scratches but it seems to leave behind micro patch of scratches that can be somewhat visible under certain lighting showing a faint white area where the cloth was used.

Is this normal or did I not polish the surface long enough? How long do you normally polish an area for? I did it by moving the coth up and down in both direction, is this the right way?

Also the buffing cloth included in the tin of Cape Cod should not be used to buff the polishing residue away? It has a rough texture.

[dooder202]

Originally Posted by watchf

I am aware that cape cod works by removing a micro nano surface of metal/gold in order to remove any scratches but is there a trick to using cape cod polishing cloth?

I tried it on the PCL of a TT although it sort of removed some scratches but it seems to leave behind micro patch of scratches that can be somewhat visible under certain lighting showing a faint white area where the cloth was used.
Is this normal or did I not polish the surface long enough? How long do you normally polish an area for? I did it by moving the coth up and down in both direction, is this the right way?

Also the buffing cloth included in the tin of Cape Cod should not be used to buff the polishing residue away? It has a rough texture.

That's exactly what happened to a turn-o-graph in Rose Gold when I used it on the polished center links. I wasn't sure if I had used it too little or too much or should have used a different part of the cloth more often (because the metal comes onto the cloth very easily in black, possibly that's what does these patches of micro-scratches)

[watchf]

Originally Posted by dooder202

That's exactly what happened to a turn-o-graph in Rose Gold when I used it on the polished center links. I wasn't sure if I had used it too little or too much or should have used a different part of the cloth more often (because the metal comes onto the cloth very easily in black, possibly that's what does these patches of micro-scratches)

Yeah I noticed it produced black residue quite quickly, what is the black residue anyway. Are you suppose to turn to a new surface once it turns black.

The instructions on the tin say to buff the residue with the supplied buffing cloth before the polishing agent dries but I tested a tiny area with the buffing cloth and its like sandpaper.

What did you end up doing? Just left it as it is?

[SPARTAN2161]

Sounds like you didn't polish long enough. When ever i do mine i rub from scratch to micro scratches (what you see now. hazy looking) from the cloth then a little longer till it creates a shine. Theres pretty much 3 stages and you at stage 2. The process should atleast take 5 minutes on a minor scratch. It take a bit to get that shine back but they do work well. So dont worry and good luck!

[watchf]

Originally Posted by SPARTAN2161

Sounds like you didn't polish long enough. When ever i do mine i rub from scratch to micro scratches (what you see now. hazy looking) from the cloth then a little longer till it creates a shine. Theres pretty much 3 stages and you at stage 2. The process should atleast take 5 minutes on a minor scratch. It take a bit to get that shine back but they do work well. So dont worry and good luck!

Thanks. Do you cover the brushed part of the link with masking tape when you polish? How do I know I am at stage 3, do you wipe the residue off, review and polish again if its still hazing?

[Numismatist]

YES! Cover the brushed...

Keep polishing your areas a little longer, it should go to a nice mirrored polish.

I like to use different parts of the pink cloth as it does start to 'tarnish' the cloth - I don't really know what that is or why, but I just move on to a different part of the cloth.

I've done it to numerous different polished surfaces, with a little time, each has been restored to its former glory.

Of course, yes, you care removing a layer, so I wouldn't do it to the same piece often.

Chris - Numismatist

[rad87gn]

The pink cloth is only to apply the polish. You don't actually polish with it. That's what the buffing cloth is for.

But, ultimately. No reason to polish at all. That's what service time is for. And I personally wouldn't have it polished at each service.

[watchf]

Originally Posted by Numismatist

I like to use different parts of the pink cloth as it does start to 'tarnish' the cloth - I don't really know what that is or why, but I just move on to a different part of the cloth.


Chris - Numismatist

Originally Posted by rad87gn

The pink cloth is only to apply the polish. You don't actually polish with it. That's what the buffing cloth is for.

I'm confused. So you wet the link surface with the pink cloth and then buff with the white cloth provided in the tin?! You don't actually use the pink cloth to polish?! The white buffing cloth has a very rough texture though.

[petesjag]

use the pink cloth to apply the polish, use it also to dispurse the polish..a bit of rubbing is fine...once it starts to turn black then move to another section. then use a microfibre cloth to do the polishing..think of it as you would your car..

first clean it with Varaet or soap and water.
then dry it..varaet has a great cloth for this
then apply the cape cod polish with the pink cloth.
use a microfibre to polish it out
use a finer microfibre to do the fine buffing.
the fine silk cloths from varaet are the best for the last part...removing any polish dust or prints from your fingers.....
good luck!



Invest in a quality polishing cloth or two...microfibre cloths can be found everywhere these days..I have a whole collection of them...Varaet makes some wonderful cloth products too...google and you will find them....

[Watchvirgin]

http://www.veraet.com/collections/watch-care

[Numismatist]

Originally Posted by watchf

I'm confused. So you wet the link surface with the pink cloth and then buff with the white cloth provided in the tin?! You don't actually use the pink cloth to polish?! The white buffing cloth has a very rough texture though.

Yes to both, I use the pink to polish very small areas, a big job and perhaps use a microfibre. I've always used just the pink and never had a problem and always comes out looking like brand new. I've never used it on a deep scratch.

[PeterT]

I use a different technique to avoid the micro scratches from the cape cod cloth.
I wrap a micro fibre lens cleaning cloth round the end of a cotton ear bud. I dip this combination in the cap cod "juice" and then work carefully, swapping to a new piece of cloth regularly. I then polish gently with another new or just washed lens cloth.
Peter

[Numismatist]

Here's some pix of just using the pink cloth:

http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=99142

[jnkay]

The key here is to do the buffing with a good microfiber cloth. You can rub away for a minute or two with the pink cloth to actually remove the scratches and scuffs, and then with lighter pressure, use the microfiber cloth to gradually wipe off the cape cod. The process of wiping off all the residue ("juice" or "haze") will remove the fine scratches the pink cloth left behind. I don't even bother with the cheese cloth they provide.

[outtatime]

I've tried Cape Cod cloths and found them to be virtually useless. I have a Breitling with a highly-polished finish and even after rubbing and rubbing with the pink cloth and then "buffing" with a microfiber, it really hadn't done a thing to the scratches. I gave up as it wasn't worth the effort and just made my fingers black and slimy.

[jnkay]

Originally Posted by outtatime

I've tried Cape Cod cloths and found them to be virtually useless. I have a Breitling with a highly-polished finish and even after rubbing and rubbing with the pink cloth and then "buffing" with a microfiber, it really hadn't done a thing to the scratches. I gave up as it wasn't worth the effort and just made my fingers black and slimy.

Stainless steel is hard and takes some time and elbow grease. For anything other than superficial hairline scratches, I would use a dremel with cotton polishing wheel, then finish with cape cod. On gold however, scratches come off pretty easily with just cape cod.

[watchf]

Thanks, I will give it another go to get rid of the haze/micro scratches.

[bkandj2000]

I've used the Cape Cod cloth successfully, even on a high-polished Breitling (100% removal success). Proper technique and patience, my friend! It may or may not remove the blemish 100% on your watch, but it will be very less noticeable.

This process (learned by trial & error) has worked for me:


Warm water rinse watch (only if watch is properly sealed).

Dispense mild liquid dish detergent on clean fingers- gently rub watch.

Warm water rinse watch again gently rubbing watch with fingers to remove all detergent. (only if watch is properly sealed).

Blot dry watch with microfiber cloth.

Lay watch on microfiber cloth to air dry.

Rub clean, moist Cape Cod polishing cloth with firm, precise pressure on blemish being careful to brace watch properly so the pressure disperses on the blemished area only and doesn't cause the watch to move around nor come in contact with unintended areas of the watch.

Warm water rinse watch again (only if watch is properly sealed).

Dispense mild liquid dish detergent on clean fingers - gently rub watch.

Warm water rinse watch again gently rubbing watch to remove all detergent (only if watch is properly sealed).

Blot dry watch with microfiber cloth.

Lay watch on microfiber cloth to air dry.

Use clean polishing cloth on all of watch for final finish. To avoid possible further scratching, use only the inner portion of the polishing cloth. Do not allow the sewn edges of the polishing cloth to contact the high-polished finish of watch.


Repeat process until you are satisfied or it appears the blemish no longer shows signs of improvement.




Blaine

[watchf]

I just finished trying it again and this time I polished longer than before like you guys advised and the result is fantastic! I polished it with the pink cape cod cloth before wiping the residue off and using a lint free disposable cloth to remove left over residue and buff it out

[klayface]

I hate to say this but it sounds like you permanantly added some swirls to the polished parts of your watch. The trick I think is to wash the watch thoroughly to remove and micro dirt and dust that may scratch the finish when its being polished and me thinks you didn't do that.

[Sam Taha]

Just came across this old thread, and wanted to add my experience. I just used cape cod on the polished clasp of the GMT Master II and on the sides of the watch (around the crown and on the other side). Before that, I experimented on another older/cheaper watche like my wife's Bulgari which is so scratched the watch is unrecognizable. Bottom line is that it works! At least for hairline surface scratches (which is 95% of scratches on any watch). And the procedure is straight forward. Use the moist pink cloth with a q-tip behind it, apply medium pressure, not too hard, not too soft, and polish back and forth quickly in straight lines, from anywhere between 30 seconds to 2-3 minutes depending on how scratched it is. I'd use the same pressure as if I were buffing it, i.e. not too hard! Probably at 30 seconds you'll shine it but not really get rid of scratches.. for visible scratches you'll need at least 2-3 minutes, maybe more. I even noticed results with just using the q-tip (which itself becomes soaked). Then I'd buff it with a clean microfiber cloth or, in my case, a clean soft cotton sock :) Buff for at least 30 seconds to a minute.. that should be enough. Then move on to the next small section repeating above steps. Once you're done polishing and buffing, head over to the sink, get some warm water and detergent and gently wash it, then dry it / buff it with a nice clean soft towel.

And for the brushed parts, I used a dry 3M scouring pad (or similar). Rub LIGHTLY (very little pressure) in straight lines again. Then wash it if you want. That's it!

[wantonebad]

5 year old threads should stay 5 years deep in the archives, start your own thread.