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13 September 2016, 06:10 AM | #1 |
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Real Name: Rafael
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Vintage Pelikan Tortoise Red Cap100N
I recently acquired a wonderful, vintage from 1937,(the first year of the 100N),
Pelikan 100N in Tortoise with Red cap, inner cap and turning knob, made of hard rubber. The celluloid barrel, has an amber visualated ink tank. The gold nib is a Fine, with great "flex". Pelican vintage pens, especially the 100N, and 400 models, have always been a favorite of mine. I had collected quite a few in the past, but let them all go, to focus on other hobbies. This forum got me back to wanting another fountain pen. This one I was lucky enough to get, is as good as any I have ever owned. So I have to say thank you to TRF for getting me involved again with the wonderful, ink stained world of fountain pens! [IMG][/IMG] a writing sample Rafael |
14 September 2016, 02:03 AM | #2 |
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Glad you made it over here and please come over more often…..fountain pens rule!!!
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15 September 2016, 08:08 AM | #3 |
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Fantastic
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19 September 2016, 05:29 PM | #4 |
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That's some quality retro line variation right there! Congrats!
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19 September 2016, 08:50 PM | #5 |
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Cool.
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20 September 2016, 12:14 PM | #6 |
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Thanks guys !
A development; I noticed the front section near the nib move a wee bit when I would write. This early variation of the 100N has a front section which is separate from the body, and is glued in. I experienced seepage of ink coming from the area where the front section joins the body. Later 100N's had the front section as part of the body. Probably to avoid just this problem. [IMG][/IMG] I am going to try to heat the section using a funnel near an alcohol lamp. This will deliver a very hot but controlled small funnel of air .. hopefully loosen the adhesive. Then I have some Portuguese Pine resin which an old repairman gave me. I have to figure out what to dilute it with, and the ratio. This guys is Vintage ! Rafael |
21 September 2016, 10:31 AM | #7 |
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Hey Rafael... Be extra careful. The vintage tortoise Pelikans were celluloid which will burn like napalm!
I would suggest no open flame and a heat gun or your wife's good blow dryer with a funnel attached at the snout. Beautiful pen!
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21 September 2016, 12:58 PM | #8 |
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A more practical precaution would be to keep out of a location where sun light will hit it for a prolonged time.
And here is one that I stumbled upon, that most people are not aware of. Do not put old pens in an area lighted by fluorescent light bulbs. Some thing about the wavelength that it emits reacts with some celluloid products. Which causes crystallization in the plastic. 1930's Wahl-Eversharps seem to have the biggest problem with crystallization (Particularily Dorics). And translucent plastics like you will see on the ends of the Waterman 100 Year pen, these are almost always crystallized. |
25 September 2016, 03:23 AM | #9 |
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Thanks for the accurate and interesting warnings! Some research .... not much .... but enough to tell me not to attempt the repair. The pre war vintage of my pen introduces aspects that require experience to repair properly.
I don't want to learn from my mistakes with this beauty! So I will not attempt the repair. Luckily I was able to contact a terrific vintage repairman, who has already done delicate work for me; i.e.. removing, repairing and re-glueing a lizard binde from a 1939 Pelican 100N. The experience of Bisquitlips and Millgauss are greatly appreciated. Now I am looking for another 100N ..... grey or tortoise with a flex.B nib, and also 1950's 111 or 222 Soennecken medium or broad nib. Soenneckens are never flexible much. But the design and barrel colors or fantastic! There goes all my green energy again ! Rafael |
25 September 2016, 07:11 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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