My late Dad's watch - 5513.

[FlyerMinnie]

Hi.

It's my first post here. Also I'm a Rolex noob, but what I thought I was cleaning up to sell is now becoming an obsession.

My Dad passed away last year and now I have his watch. He was a marine engineer and wore it to work. It got fairly trashed. The strap is long gone but I have the pins. It is a 1966 Submariner 5513. It still appears to be in working order though. It has the gilt dial, does that make it what people refer to as a Bart Simpson dial or is that only some of them? I enclose a picture.

I had intended to clean it up and sell it, but now I think I will keep it in his memory for occasional wear.

I stupidly gave it to the wrong person to service and they lost/broke off the second hand. I want to find a genuine replacement without breaking the bank. I think I will send it to Rolex for a real service later in the year, as I don't know what other damage this man might have done. I don't know whether I should let Rolex put on a new second hand or should I source one myself first and get this done separately and beforehand. I am afraid Rolex will change too much though, I just want a service and I don't know if I have control over them replacing things?

Also, I'm obsessing over whether to get an original oyster strap (7206) which seems very expensive, a new generic oyster style strap that will still look nice (ebay for €100ish) or a quality leather strap (I see some nice ones from Everest for €200ish). I see a C&I rivit one on Ebay now too from a similar era and might be able to get for a few hundred if I'm lucky, would that be a wise compromise?

I have definitely decided to keep it. But I'm still open to ideas on the servicing, second hand and bracelet. If anyone had any thoughts, they would be most welcome. I am based in Ireland, so European companies would be ideal, due to taxes, shipping, etc for straps/parts.

[NickD1975]

I wouldn't send it to Rolex, they would want to change too much. I'm in the UK so can't speak to EU companies, but Bill Rice would be my choice if you were OK with getting it done in the UK.

[TuRo]

Condolences, Lovely watch. Welcome to the tree house.

Rolex service is not the place, use a local specialist - SHWR in London are good.

Btw It might be year or two earlier than 66 going by dial, what’s serial no first 4 digits pls?. Here’s some good stuff on the piece

https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/r...29288.5604248/

Btw If hands are the orig. gold gilt (difficult to see from photo) then locate a gilt second hand, if silver steel then get matching steel ditto be a few hundred. Crown looks orig.

£2500 plus gets a 7206, but a 9315 folded link £1500 plus or a scruffy and bit stretched 93150 c 76 onwards solid link for £800-900 would look fine too imho. EBay/ vrf for sale awash with them. Aftermarket not recommended it’s money down the toilet and I’ll fitting end links could cause £00,000s damage if model/serial number scratched off.

C and I are fine if legit…a few hundred for one might be pushing it though…make sure legit by posting here. Loads of fake bracelets out there.

[Dan S]

I would send the watch to a good independent watchmaker referred to you either on the forum, or by someone local who is knowledgeable. You might want to find a local group of enthusiasts and network in person. For a bracelet, I would go with a genuine Rolex bracelet of some type, really it's your decision about the budget. A 7206 would be my choice, I like them very much. The C&I bracelet endlinks don't fit quite as well, but they are ok. I don't think you will find an auction for a 20mm C&I rivet ending below 1K, however, unless there is something wrong with it. A more modern 93150 would also be fine, or even a 78360 (even though it's not technically correct).

[FlyerMinnie]

Hi,
Thanks TuRo for sending the link to that piece. From that, the watch is 1964 t<25. Everything is original, my Dad wore it to death without servicing until it stopped and then popped it into a desk in the 80s I'd say, where it was resting with stuff piled ontop of it uncared for until now.
Steel hands, so I'll try to source an old one and then give that with the watch when I get it serviced. Just got a quote from the only accredited rolex servicer in the country - 'starting at €1000' and trying to sell me a strap too. I thought they'd be slight cheaper than Rolex themselves. I'll see if I can find someone independent and good in Ireland first and then try the UK. Some good recommendations already for the UK, thanks.
I'll keep an eye out for bracelets. I still like the idea of leather even though not original.

[Arnozerosix]

Originally Posted by FlyerMinnie

Hi.

It's my first post here. Also I'm a Rolex noob, but what I thought I was cleaning up to sell is now becoming an obsession.

My Dad passed away last year and now I have his watch. He was a marine engineer and wore it to work. It got fairly trashed. The strap is long gone but I have the pins. It is a 1966 Submariner 5513. It still appears to be in working order though. It has the gilt dial, does that make it what people refer to as a Bart Simpson dial or is that only some of them? I enclose a picture.

I had intended to clean it up and sell it, but now I think I will keep it in his memory for occasional wear.

I stupidly gave it to the wrong person to service and they lost/broke off the second hand. I want to find a genuine replacement without breaking the bank. I think I will send it to Rolex for a real service later in the year, as I don't know what other damage this man might have done. I don't know whether I should let Rolex put on a new second hand or should I source one myself first and get this done separately and beforehand. I am afraid Rolex will change too much though, I just want a service and I don't know if I have control over them replacing things?

Also, I'm obsessing over whether to get an original oyster strap (7206) which seems very expensive, a new generic oyster style strap that will still look nice (ebay for €100ish) or a quality leather strap (I see some nice ones from Everest for €200ish). I see a C&I rivit one on Ebay now too from a similar era and might be able to get for a few hundred if I'm lucky, would that be a wise compromise?

I have definitely decided to keep it. But I'm still open to ideas on the servicing, second hand and bracelet. If anyone had any thoughts, they would be most welcome. I am based in Ireland, so European companies would be ideal, due to taxes, shipping, etc for straps/parts.

Hello, sorry to hear for your dad....
Your watch is a true Beauty, as above stated, do not at any cost give it to a RSC....
You can get a CI for approx. half the cost of a 7206, these are very confortable, very thin and very nice...but not adjustable so when buying make sure you'll receive it with the proper number of links ;-)

[FlyerMinnie]

This was the C&I bracelet I was watching. I know it will go much higher, but it looked good to my uneducated eyes.
Ebay item 125824132926. I'm too new to post links.

[FlyerMinnie]

Also, the serial number is 1.34m. The article posted above dates it at 1964. I had 1966 from another good article by timeline watch but that was mainly about the bart simpson but it had the serial number in their range. The coronet isn't a bart simpson though.
I have learned the Swiss-T <25 means that the watch contains an amount of tritium that emits less than 25 mCi. I had already checked it with my Geiger counter out of curiosity - it said 25cpm, which seems to be just above background. Got the same off my monitor and bananas, everywhere else was 15.

[TuRo]

The item here had a brief 5 second look… it’s 11 links and will fit up to 7 inch only btw.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125824132926

[Johny]

Hi op

Put a nato on it.

[FlyerMinnie]

It looks like it would 'just' fit. I'll keep an eye on it and get it only if a good price. Too many bidders though, will probably be a frenzy in the end.

[FlyerMinnie]

I hadn't considered a Nato strap. Would a leather Nato work, or does it have to be nylon? A shop bulang and sons in the Netherlands seem to have a nice selection of straps including natos.

[some.idiot]

I think it's an absolutely beautiful watch and I hope you wear it with good memories of your father.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by FlyerMinnie

It looks like it would 'just' fit. I'll keep an eye on it and get it only if a good price. Too many bidders though, will probably be a frenzy in the end.

That's how eBay is designed to work. I don't even know why anyone would bid with more than 10 seconds remaining. Rolex rivet bracelets don't fly under the radar, if you want one, you'll have to pay market value for it one way or another.

[harry in montreal]

Old Rolex rivet bands are kind of fragile. Get a nice black nato band. They are cheap and safer as both spring bars are tethered together. Your watch is a gem and the prize of even the best collections. If you want something very secure you could just get a robust new 93150 band. This is a sturdy but expensive alternative.

[joli160]

In the EU;

For hands check out or contact a German shop: tswisst.de absolutely reliable and owner is a long term active member on the German R-L-X forum. Not the cheapest but your watch is worth it.

In the Netherlands there is a very good professional watchmaker Wesselink & Vreeker located in Alkmaar. Though they don’t advertise with Rolex they are really very capable and did a few jobs for me and understand the importance of originality.

[kegan]

Sorry about your father. That watch is treasure and you are smart for not sending it to Rolex. Likely they would charge you a small fortune to ruin it. Just take your time do your research,
find correct parts and a reputable vintage watchmaker. It will be fun and money well spent.

[alwayshere]

I hope they didn't charge you for their "work" after they lost or broken the seconds hand.....

[LateLearner]

Originally Posted by FlyerMinnie

Also, the serial number is 1.34m. The article posted above dates it at 1964. I had 1966 from another good article by timeline watch but that was mainly about the bart simpson but it had the serial number in their range. The coronet isn't a bart simpson though.
I have learned the Swiss-T &lt;25 means that the watch contains an amount of tritium that emits less than 25 mCi. I had already checked it with my Geiger counter out of curiosity - it said 25cpm, which seems to be just above background. Got the same off my monitor and bananas, everywhere else was 15.

My 5513 is serial number 1.28M and the case back is III 65. Also, I inherited mine from my Dad.

I agree with other members the crown is earlier (taller) than the “Bart Simpson” from 1966.

Keep it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[77T]

My suggestion is to get a good hold on your goal and your expectations.

First, get it running. 1K just gets you a service - sourcing original replacement parts could double that (or more). If your goal is 100% era correct restoration it gets more expensive.

Another goal is find a working movement (any brand) and just swap the existing one out. Then save the existing one while you figure out your expectations.

Put it on a nylon 007 NATO and try it out for a year while attempting to find parts to restore the movement.

You may not like it as much as you expected - then you just saved 1K.

Just some thoughts…


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[FlyerMinnie]

Thanks - joli160 - for your recommendation with tswisst. He seems knowledgeable, is quick to respond and has good English. He doesn't have a second hand at present, but will try to source it.

[FlyerMinnie]

Here is a clearer photo of the watch. Hopefully better than the last one.

The hands are tritium and silver coloured not gold, so either chrome plated or painted I think. It seems to be the flat type. On the rolex haven site, I see all the different hand types, so it's more complicated to identify and source one than I thought. I thought any silver coloured tritium one compatible with the 5513 would do.

Thanks to everyone for their advice and feedback to date. I'm learning loads.

[joli160]

Originally Posted by FlyerMinnie

Thanks - joli160 - for your recommendation with tswisst. He seems knowledgeable, is quick to respond and has good English. He doesn't have a second hand at present, but will try to source it.

I hope it works out for you, gorgeous watch

[Jackie Daytona]

Sorry for your loss. Lovely watch. Hoping you’ll post it all up again once you’ve gotten it back on some form of a strap and the hand fixed.

[QualityTimepieces]

Condolences,perfect watches,save it, it's a memory...

[00st]

My condolences, you shouldn’t send it to Rolex because you might not like the changes they would make on the watch.

[PekWatchGuy]

"you shouldn’t send it to Rolex" >> +1
you can not recreate patina. Your watch has history and it should also be seen.

[TuRo]

Originally Posted by FlyerMinnie

Here is a clearer photo of the watch. Hopefully better than the last one.

The hands are tritium and silver coloured not gold, so either chrome plated or painted I think. It seems to be the flat type. On the rolex haven site, I see all the different hand types, so it's more complicated to identify and source one than I thought. I thought any silver coloured tritium one compatible with the 5513 would do.

Thanks to everyone for their advice and feedback to date. I'm learning loads.

You're perhaps lucky it's not the original gilt set as very pricey and tricky to find. An old period Steel one with a vaguely matching oxidation and tritium blip colour is easier to locate - quick peruse and there are two on eBay c £500 which is pricey mind...twist their arm to £300 possibly ! * not vetted the item btw *

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175451249...mis&media=COPY


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325294611...mis&media=COPY

[Johny]

Originally Posted by FlyerMinnie

I hadn't considered a Nato strap. Would a leather Nato work, or does it have to be nylon? A shop bulang and sons in the Netherlands seem to have a nice selection of straps including natos.

I prefer nylon. Buy a cheap one from ebay to see if you like them.

[FlyerMinnie]

I've decided on a black nylon Nato strap with a bronze strip for now and will keep an eye out for an original strap for long term, but no rush there, if I ever get one.
I am waiting for an old new replacement hand and will get it serviced then. Hopefully that will be the only thing needing replacing as it seems to run good.
I'll post pics up once all done, it could be a while though.
Thanks again for all the advice and recommendations. : - )