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Old 9 October 2021, 01:26 AM   #1
aj_tucker
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Watches that excite you - non-rolex, non-PP

There are calm watches - slim, svelte, sedate. They're beautiful and admirable and will be that way in any generation. Think, Calatrava, Day Date, Lange 1.

Then there are watches that make you say, what the is that - I want that on my wrist. They get your blood pumping. They make you excited, almost like when you were a kid. They may not be forever watches, but they're a hell of a ride for a little while.

Which contemporary watches do that for you?
- Two caveats: non-Rolex, non-PP AND *relatively attainable* at or near retail. That probably rules out RM, hot indies, limited editions, etc.

Some lately that have been doing it for me: Zeitwerk, AP Offshore Ghost.
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Old 9 October 2021, 01:27 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by aj_tucker View Post
There are calm watches - slim, svelte, sedate. They're beautiful and admirable and will be that way in any generation. Think, Calatrava, Day Date, Lange 1.

Then there are watches that make you say, what the is that - I want that on my wrist. They get your blood pumping. They make you excited, almost like when you were a kid. They may not be forever watches, but they're a hell of a ride for a little while.

Which contemporary watches do that for you?
- Two caveats: non-Rolex, non-PP AND *relatively attainable* at or near retail. That probably rules out RM, hot indies, limited editions, etc.

Some lately that have been doing it for me: Zeitwerk, AP Offshore Ghost.

Lange One


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Old 9 October 2021, 01:28 AM   #3
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Almost anything Journe. I’m trying to get an MB&F LM101 also.


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Old 9 October 2021, 01:30 AM   #4
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Almost anything Journe. I’m trying to get an MB&F LM101 also.


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He did say attainable

I am expecting the 2022 LM101 in steel next year. So you can say that it is “attainable”. The RG version is probably even more accessible. My first MB&F and is very excited over this incoming.
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Old 9 October 2021, 01:39 AM   #5
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He did say attainable

I am expecting the 2022 LM101 in steel next year. So you can say that it is “attainable”. The RG version is probably even more accessible. My first MB&F and is very excited over this incoming.


Cellini in NYC was still taking deposits for the LM101 in RG as of a month ago.
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Old 9 October 2021, 01:45 AM   #6
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MB&F, UN Freak Out, URWERK
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Old 9 October 2021, 01:50 AM   #7
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+1 on MB&F, I find myself torn on their collection I either love their pieces or they are just too outlandish for me. Their LM101 definitely does it for me though! And of course anything FPJ.
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Old 9 October 2021, 04:30 AM   #8
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Cellini in NYC was still taking deposits for the LM101 in RG as of a month ago.
How about steel? I was told that steel is much harder to get and is feeling very grateful to my AD.
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Old 9 October 2021, 04:34 AM   #9
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+1 on MB&F, I find myself torn on their collection I either love their pieces or they are just too outlandish for me. Their LM101 definitely does it for me though! And of course anything FPJ.
Agreed on MB&F. Before I discovered LM101, even the LM1 and LM2 are too "much" for me. Now that I am looking more into the brand and what it stands for, even the HMs and especially the HM10 Panda starts to look appealing. (But then of course it is completely out of my budget)

Also have a Project LPX on order. I guess I got bitten by the MB&F bug.
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Old 9 October 2021, 06:13 AM   #10
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The Gronefeld watches are amazing too. Seriously considered getting one a while back.
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Old 9 October 2021, 07:30 AM   #11
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Zeitwerk for sure but i know the size will bug me and i would hardly ever wear it.
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Old 9 October 2021, 07:37 AM   #12
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My H Moser pioneer center second with midnight blue fume dial does that to me!
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg 9AB36A76-0BDB-435E-9987-409A0A9E1CB8.jpeg (180.8 KB, 619 views)
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Old 9 October 2021, 10:00 AM   #13
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My H Moser pioneer center second with midnight blue fume dial does that to me!
Wow that dial is mesmerizing

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Old 9 October 2021, 10:12 AM   #14
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Hmm…..really for me it’s a royal oak or overseas at the moment…..

Everything else just gets a meh right now……

I’m really not excited about watches at the moment. A ton going on in the business side of life, so other than being potential capital, they are on the back burner to an extent…


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Old 9 October 2021, 10:20 AM   #15
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Sure MB&F... yet you said obtainable and I kinda think that means under $20k and so.....

1118_face_glow.jpg

Bvlgari_Octo_Finissimo_S_side.jpg

Tag_Heuer_Monaco_Gulf_NATO.jpg

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Old 9 October 2021, 10:31 AM   #16
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Sure MB&F... yet you said obtainable and I kinda think that means under $20k and so.....
I read his "obtainable" as something you can get at list price from AD without spending $$$ on some undesirable items. (e.g. spend $1 million of jewelry at Tiffanvy to get a Nautlius.) So MB&F seems to be okay with that criteria as long as you can wait.
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Old 9 October 2021, 10:33 AM   #17
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My H Moser pioneer center second with midnight blue fume dial does that to me!
I like those a great deal. I'm about to pull the trigger on the red version ... I'm just hesitating between it and a SBGH269
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Old 9 October 2021, 11:43 AM   #18
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Romain Gauthier’s Logical 1 and Micro Insight.
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Old 9 October 2021, 12:53 PM   #19
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I like those a great deal. I'm about to pull the trigger on the red version ... I'm just hesitating between it and a SBGH269

IMG_0441.jpg
To be honest they’re two totally different watches. My Moser gets way more wrist time
I like the Moser proportions more
The cases are great on both but the Moser is a step above
The GS dial is the better between the two imho
The GS movement is spot on accurate

I don’t think you can go wrong with either
Good luck!


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Old 9 October 2021, 01:05 PM   #20
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As others have mentioned, the LM101
Haldimann central flying tourbillon
Haldimann flying resonance
RG insight micro rotor
Petermann Bedat 1967 deadbeat seconds
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Old 9 October 2021, 01:14 PM   #21
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Attachment 1248747
To be honest they’re two totally different watches. My Moser gets way more wrist time
I like the Moser proportions more
The cases are great on both but the Moser is a step above
The GS dial is the better between the two imho
The GS movement is spot on accurate

I don’t think you can go wrong with either
Good luck!


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Thank you, this is REALLY helpful.

I’ve been wanting to add a red dial watch to the collection for quite some time. First I thought i was going to get a IW500714 but it doesn’t move me. So it came down to the moser and GS. I am a GS fan and own two of them. One just happens to be the SBGH271 which seems to be fundamentally the same watch with a different dial color … hence my inclination toward the moser just to have some variation.

Now I really don’t know what to do. :(
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Old 9 October 2021, 02:20 PM   #22
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Ventured into MB&F, Urwerk and ALS this year. Not really sure what direction I'll want to go in next, so it's always interesting to see what others are exploring.
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Old 10 October 2021, 03:16 AM   #23
QuantumOceanLawyer
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He did say attainable

I am expecting the 2022 LM101 in steel next year. So you can say that it is “attainable”. The RG version is probably even more accessible. My first MB&F and is very excited over this incoming.

I think Journe is and should be thought of that way. I’ll concede both are hard but not like most others considered unobtainable. But I’ll add in Czapek. Super color brand you can go and order today.


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Old 10 October 2021, 03:19 AM   #24
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I think Journe is and should be thought of that way. I’ll concede both are hard but not like most others considered unobtainable. But I’ll add in Czapek. Super color brand you can go and order today.


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Come to think of it. You are right. As long as you are patient. Getting a Journe at MSRP is very doable.
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Old 10 October 2021, 03:24 AM   #25
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Come to think of it. You are right. As long as you are patient. Getting a Journe at MSRP is very doable.

Yeah. I moved to LA and went into some Rolex and Patek AD’s and was just told “no. Don’t bother.” So I have to fly back East to my AD to pick anything up. Journe has twenty watchmakers. They just ask for some patience.


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Old 10 October 2021, 11:36 PM   #26
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Cartier is one. I recently purchased a Santos and I am waiting on a Tank.
I also like the direction that Breitling is headed in under Kern, and I am about to purchase an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch.

Lots of great options out there
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Old 11 October 2021, 12:25 AM   #27
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I’ve been patiently waiting for this. Looking like it will be around a year wait from ask to delivery if all goes as planned.


I recently bought this because I’ve been digging strap watches since buying my current favorite watch (806 re-edition).



This really would have me hyped but honestly it’s out of my budget I think for now. I almost ordered a lm101 steel (long wait) but I just don’t feel the same about it as the perp.

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Old 11 October 2021, 01:16 AM   #28
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I’ve been patiently waiting for this. Looking like it will be around a year wait from ask to delivery if all goes as planned.


I recently bought this because I’ve been digging strap watches since buying my current favorite watch (806 re-edition).



This really would have me hyped but honestly it’s out of my budget I think for now. I almost ordered a lm101 steel (long wait) but I just don’t feel the same about it as the perp.


I almost jumped on the CMS but decided to wait until all the other major commitments are settled first.

And why not an LM101? It is such a simple and yet pure MB&F. The perpetual is nice but may not be wearable as a daily. However, since I committed to the LM101, even HMs start to be interesting but probably will be out of my budget.


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Old 11 October 2021, 01:52 AM   #29
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One of several which meet your criteria (for me at least).




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Old 11 October 2021, 03:26 AM   #30
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I almost jumped on the CMS but decided to wait until all the other major commitments are settled first.

And why not an LM101? It is such a simple and yet pure MB&F. The perpetual is nice but may not be wearable as a daily. However, since I committed to the LM101, even HMs start to be interesting but probably will be out of my budget.


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Honestly it’s sort of a case of other commitments I’ve made as well. I feel I will likely regret not ordering the LM101 as MB&F to me is a very important and special brand in this incredible era of modern independent watchmaking.
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