What brands aside from Rolex and Patek are good to service their vintage watches?

[dexvd]

My collection now is currently all Rolex and Omega but I have been interested in adding a few more vintage pieces from some other brands like IWC, Cartier, Jaeger LeCoultre or Grand Seiko. But while I have been getting my Omegas serviced at a local independent, I like the fact that I can send a 60 year old watch back to Rolex and they will send it back certified waterproof.

On the topic has anyone sent vintage watches back to Omega for service or vintage watches from any of the other brands I mentioned? I've heard some horror stories about IWC and Grand Seiko but also that they have improved.

Would love to expand into other brands but it would be a big sell for me to find a brand that can provide Rolex level service experience with reasonable turnaround time and cost.

[chessebj]

I wouldn't call Rolex "good" at servicing vintage watches.

[dexvd]

What brands would you call good at servicing vintage watches? Or brand that has a good parts availability for independents for watches made ~50 years ago?

[singe89]

AP will service any watch they have ever made and have an extensive museum\workshop specifically with parts of all their watches (even ones that were never produced) that they can use as a template to make new pieces by hand. They also make their own tools by hand to be able to service/rebuild vintage watches.

They will also service historic watches from OTHER companies in the Vallee De Joux that are no longer in business. They do this to keep the history and tradition of haute horology watchmaking in the valley.

Saw it all first hand on my trip to Le Brassus and it was amazing to see the history and appreciation they have for the art and engineering of watchmaking.

[chessebj]

Originally Posted by dexvd

What brands would you call good at servicing vintage watches? Or brand that has a good parts availability for independents for watches made ~50 years ago?

AP, Patek and VC will do it, if you pay them enough. Rolex wants to replace parts, even when it's not necessary. Omega does, too, but it's less egregious. Speaking of Rolex, when I contacted them to get my '68 1675 worked on, they wanted $1100 to look at it. That was in 2011, and I've had it serviced twice since, for not all that much more total money than the "fee," including once by ABC. I don't know about JLC. The one JLC I own is still under factory warranty. I'm sure Seiko can service anything, since it's been in-house forever, if you pay the money. Cartier and IWC have used so many third party parts over the years, that who knows.

[Tony64]

Originally Posted by chessebj

I wouldn't call Rolex "good" at servicing vintage watches.

^^^This. From what I've heard not only will Rolex refuse service for watches beyond a certain age but what vintage they will service come back shiny and thoroughly "modernized". As long as you don't care much about originality and patina then no worries.

[Tony64]

Patek, on the other hand, will service anything they've ever produced, even if they have to fabricate new parts. It's a ridiculously expensive and time consuming process (often more than a year) but the end result is spectacular.

[dexvd]

Originally Posted by chessebj

AP, Patek and VC will do it, if you pay them enough. Rolex wants to replace parts, even when it's not necessary. Omega does, too, but it's less egregious. Speaking of Rolex, when I contacted them to get my '68 1675 worked on, they wanted $1100 to look at it. That was in 2011, and I've had it serviced twice since, for not all that much more total money than the "fee," including once by ABC. I don't know about JLC. The one JLC I own is still under factory warranty. I'm sure Seiko can service anything, since it's been in-house forever, if you pay the money. Cartier and IWC have used so many third party parts over the years, that who knows.

I sent in my 1675 and 1625 (waiting on its return). Both watches had developed a problem with the tube and crown. On the 1675 the crown and tube were stripped so they wouldn't screw closed. On the 1625 something was happening to the stem where it wasn't winding or setting well.

For both watches Rolex insisted to work on the watches they would need to replace the tube and crowns and the acrylic crystals. I declined any polishing of bracelets or cases or swapping of hands, dials, etc and they respected that. So yes both of my watches no longer have their original crowns but they are now fully serviced and pressure tested as waterproof by Rolex.

The 1675 was done in 2012 and cost around ~$1200 CAD with taxes and shipping. The 1625 is being done now and will cost ~$1300 CAD with taxes and shipping.

Of course they suggested lots of extras like swapping dials, case backs, bracelets due to "discolouration" or "scratches" but these weren't required, if they were I would be going elsewhere to service my watches... They seem to not want to budge on the swapping the crystal out (guessing so they can replace the gaskets with modern ones?) not sure if they would insist on swapping tube and crown if they were still functional.

This has been my experience with Rolex Canada... Maybe there are better experiences out there but many of the recommendations I have seen are places in the states and the idea of shipping my watches back and forth across customs for service seems risky (perhaps this concern is unfounded).

[dexvd]

Originally Posted by singe89

AP will service any watch they have ever made and have an extensive museum\workshop specifically with parts of all their watches (even ones that were never produced) that they can use as a template to make new pieces by hand. They also make their own tools by hand to be able to service/rebuild vintage watches.

They will also service historic watches from OTHER companies in the Vallee De Joux that are no longer in business. They do this to keep the history and tradition of haute horology watchmaking in the valley.

Saw it all first hand on my trip to Le Brassus and it was amazing to see the history and appreciation they have for the art and engineering of watchmaking.

Interesting to hear that AP is quite good, I wonder how their cost compares to service a 70's or 80's Royal Oak. I go back and forth between a pre-owned Royal Oak or Day Date as the eventual grail piece of my collection (rest being made up of watches worth under 10k).
I read a lot about Royal Oaks lacking durability and just assumed that they weren't as good as Rolex in terms of service...

[JP Chestnut]

AP service blows away Rolex, and their prices for new watch service aren't much higher.

[chessebj]

Originally Posted by JP Chestnut

AP service blows away Rolex, and their prices for new watch service aren't much higher.

When did "new watch" = "vintage watch?"

[dexvd]

Originally Posted by JP Chestnut

AP service blows away Rolex, and their prices for new watch service aren't much higher.

Wasn't sure on their vintage servicing costs, say on a Royal Oak from the 70's or parts cost. Speaking of parts, I wonder if that is something that ruins a vintage royal oak to have the bezel replaced as I hear they get to the point where they can't be polished anymore and need replacement or if you can tell AP to leave it alone and that you would like to retain the original bezel, crystal, dial, hands, crown, etc?
That seems to be a major beef with Rolex where they insist on crown, tube and crystal swap to sapphire with their service of vintage watches.

Really its the Royal Oak that has been on my mind lately, considering whether a Royal Oak or Day Date would be best for me but if AP service is so good I may look closer at some of their calatrava style dress watches, which usually go at a steep discount when compared to similar watches from Patek.

[singe89]

Originally Posted by dexvd

Wasn't sure on their vintage servicing costs, say on a Royal Oak from the 70's or parts cost. Speaking of parts, I wonder if that is something that ruins a vintage royal oak to have the bezel replaced as I hear they get to the point where they can't be polished anymore and need replacement or if you can tell AP to leave it alone and that you would like to retain the original bezel, crystal, dial, hands, crown, etc?
That seems to be a major beef with Rolex where they insist on crown, tube and crystal swap to sapphire with their service of vintage watches.

Really its the Royal Oak that has been on my mind lately, considering whether a Royal Oak or Day Date would be best for me but if AP service is so good I may look closer at some of their calatrava style dress watches, which usually go at a steep discount when compared to similar watches from Patek.

AP service is among the best in the business. I'm sure you could call and get a quote for service on a vintage RO but I would think it would be about the same as the modern 15202 because they use the same 2121 movement. It was designed in 1968 by JLC for AP, Patek and Vacheron and AP still holds the right to it. Service for a non complicated/non chrono AP usually runs about $1,000.

[dexvd]

Originally Posted by singe89

AP service is among the best in the business. I'm sure you could call and get a quote for service on a vintage RO but I would think it would be about the same as the modern 15202 because they use the same 2121 movement. It was designed in 1968 by JLC for AP, Patek and Vacheron and AP still holds the right to it. Service for a non complicated/non chrono AP usually runs about $1,000.

I'm kind of going off track here but do you know what they charge to replace the bezel? I hear that they can only be redone so many times and many of the older ones I see have pretty rounded off looking bezels.

[singe89]

Originally Posted by dexvd

I'm kind of going off track here but do you know what they charge to replace the bezel? I hear that they can only be redone so many times and many of the older ones I see have pretty rounded off looking bezels.

Most of the rounded off bezels are from non-AP watch makers trying to polish them. Have to have the right tools and the skill to keep the angles correct. A SS bezel should have 3-4 polishes in it. Don't know the cost for the RO but I was quoted around $450 a while back for a SS ROO diver bezel. Bracelets are like $2200. For extract prices I would contact APSC Clearwater.