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Old 3 October 2018, 06:41 AM   #1
eric.mcghee
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Review of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight: 'What Do I Get When I Don't Know What I Want?"



Having spent every minute over the last few days with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight (reference M79030N-0002) was a welcome experience. And when I say 'every minute', I actually mean this watch was on my wrist at all times, with the exception of in the shower (though I am sure it would have witnessed no adverse effects in such tropical environs). The watch on the well-crafted NATO strap from the manufacturer is extremely comfortable and you quickly forget the watch is even on your wrist. I even slept with it on, and it is still fairly legible in the early 3AM hour when my two-year-old would come into the room after some dream that woke her up.



The key to this watch's appeal is its simplicity; no burdensome day or date windows to break up the dial symmetry. No crown guards to mar the circularity of the case. No overbearing size or weight to make it appear awkward on the wrist. Really, the only thing left for Tudor to make this dial even simpler would be to just do away with the seconds-hand on this watch. The only real 'complication' this piece has is the unidirectional 60-click dive bezel, which coincidentally is one of the best bezels I have had the pleasure to rotate, even moreso than my own Black Bay Red or my recently relinquished Rolex 14060.

I would like to take this opportunity to quickly go into the one design aspect of Tudor watches that really keeps me from diving headfirst into the brand and loving them; the snowflake hands. Sure, they are legible and hold an absurd amount of lume, but it is a design that has never sat well with me, as if some deep-seated aversion to squares on the hour hands of watches deserved an actual 'phobia' term. There isn't one, I checked. Maybe if the snowflake hand ended in more of a point than in a blunt dead-end-edge, I would have a different opinion, but I guess we'll never know.



But what is this watch designed to DO, exactly? Is it a dive watch? Is it a field watch? Is it a (casual) dress watch? Quite honestly, it is none of those things, while expertly pulling off being each one them. Quite honestly, the Black Bay Fifth-Eight is a chameleon in vintage diver's clothing. It blends into everything from a wet suit to a three-button suit with the ease and expertise of the aforementioned reptile. Simply put, this watch can go anywhere and neither raise an eyebrow in shock nor cause anyone to gasp, though it will lead to a few curious looks from the true watch savants in the room.

The BB58 further blurs the lines between Tudor and Rolex, especially in the entry-level diver range. With a water rating of 200 meters and a properly sealed screw-down crown, this is a watch that is comfortable for short swims as well as low-depth recreational diving. I do recommend that the swimmer take if off the supplied Tudor fabric strap, which is a little on the small side, even for my 7 inch wrist. Indeed, put that NATO back in the box and get this on the bracelet. With a hefty dose of aftermarket NATO straps out there, the possibilities are limitless, further enhancing the blend-in-ability of this piece.

Whereas Rolex is extremely reluctant to release any product that looks backward, paying tribute to any of their past successful watches, Tudor has no qualms about taking 1 step forward while remembering what happened 2 steps back, and paying tribute to that. The long line of historical Tudor dive watches have all contributed their DNA to this piece, from the lack of a date and crown guards, to the red triangle above the 12-hour marker, to the 'Rotor' and 'Self-Winding' wording on the dial, this watch has elements of many of its forefathers while still being its own child.



Again, one of the BB58's greatest strengths is its versatility; put it on a bracelet and head to work or hit the town. Put it on a NATO or perlon and hit the water. Find a good leather strap and its perfect for casual Fridays or weekends at the lake with the family. Indeed, the watch is a strap ninja (yes, I am coining the term here)...almost any unassuming strap shy of a bright neon or toxic color number will blend right in with the BB58, though I am sure someone will enjoy it just as well on one of those straps.

However, where I do start to lose my appeal for this particular watch is in the movement: Tudor's in-house MT5402. Tudor, as a watch brand created and owned by the Rolex SA company, was always intended to be the more 'otherman' watch when a comparable piece from Rolex was either not necessary or could not be afforded. Though a good number of Rolex and Tudor divers did share parts, many Tudors were crafted with lesser grades of steel, a lower level of materials and finishings, and above all, movements supplied by other manufactures. This made them easier and cheaper to service as well as brought down the cost of initial ownership. But by creating a new in-house movement, the brand has suddenly, and purposefully, created a watch that is better off being sent back to Tudor/Rolex for the servicing, and thereby increasing the price of such labor. Sure, an accomplished watch repair technician could still perform a service on the watch, but at a higher price than an ETA or Sellita.



Despite my feelings towards the new movement, and Tudor's general direction to go in-house with many of their other watches (I would own a Black Bay Bronze right now if it had an ETA in it), the BB58 is still a fantastic, reliable, versatile, and nostalgic piece that answers the question of, 'What watch would I get if I wasn't sure what I wanted?'. This watch is certainly a great all-rounder and would fit well as either someone's only watch or as part of a larger collection.

https://forums.watchuseek.com/attach...3&d=1538397769

Last edited by eric.mcghee; 3 October 2018 at 06:43 AM.. Reason: Title length
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Old 3 October 2018, 07:14 AM   #2
bdex75
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Awesome!!!! Great work and great photos. TBH the in house is about all that has held me back from buying any additional Tudor pieces. I have been really close with the bronze and the GMT and now this piece.


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Old 3 October 2018, 04:02 PM   #3
exador
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For me, the 70 hour reserve outweighs any servicing worries.
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Old 3 October 2018, 10:33 PM   #4
eric.mcghee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exador View Post
For me, the 70 hour reserve outweighs any servicing worries.
Very good point exador! The accuracy of this watch is amazing as well, as the one I tested had +/- 0 seconds/day and 0 beat error. All for less than an entry Rolex.
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Old 4 October 2018, 05:50 AM   #5
Flyer737
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Having been a Rolex fan/owner for many years and to be clear I still am, despite getting quite disillusioned with some of the pricing and more so availability of the SS sports pieces. This Tudor model is of real interest to me, it ticks so many boxes on size, simplicity, vintage look, quality and clearly price. I’m struggling to see what’s not to like.

Great review, I don’t see the in house movement as a negative personally if anything it endorses to me the direction Tudor are going in to improve the brand and quality. Annoyingly in the U.K. this seems to be going above list and there appears to be again a waiting list, something that is becoming a too regular an occurrence in the Rolex world.
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Old 4 October 2018, 06:20 AM   #6
214270Explorer
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eric.mcghee, thanks for the lume photo. I was wondering what that watch looked like . .. .
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Old 4 October 2018, 10:13 PM   #7
eric.mcghee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 214270Explorer View Post
eric.mcghee, thanks for the lume photo. I was wondering what that watch looked like . .. .
Having worn this watch while sleeping as well, I can attest that the lume lasts through most of the night. I can't vouch for the longevity of this feature, but I will assume that this quality will last for a good while.
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