Datejust advice/questions

[sgk]

Hi all,
Hope you guys are all doing well.

I wanted to get your thoughts on a vintage datejust that I just acquired as I really liked the black dial with gold writing. Would this be called a gilt dial?

It looked like an honest piece to me with the cracked/displaced crystal, open 6/9 datewheel and the stretched, gunked up jubilee with ‘G’ clasp code. However, the engine turned bezel has me stumped as the case ref is 16000 with 7.5mil serial number. Does the 16000 need to strictly have a smooth bezel?

Also, I would need to find a replacement crystal; any info on the ref no. of the plexiglass I am looking for?

Here are some quick shots:






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[L.K Johnson]

Cool watch! You have 16000 watch with a 16030 bezel and a 16013 non-gilt dial...pretty cool assembly. Both 160X and 160XX are sometimes “mixed up” like that cause people pick and choose parts to make the watch to their liking. To be a true 16000 it should have the smooth bezel. Here is my 16000 with a 16013 dial:

[YTimepiece]

Beautiful piece!!

[sgk]

Originally Posted by L.K Johnson

Cool watch! You have 16000 watch with a 16030 bezel and a 16013 non-gilt dial...pretty cool assembly. Both 160X and 160XX are sometimes “mixed up” like that cause people pick and choose parts to make the watch to their liking. To be a true 16000 it should have the smooth bezel. Here is my 16000 with a 16013 dial:

That is a beautiful timepiece you have there yourself!

So is mixing up dials and bezels an aftersales process and is this common?

[offrdmania]

It is my understanding that a watch with gold hands and gold hour markers should be from a two-tone watch.

It was a very common practice back in the day to swap out the dial or hands or the bezel or the crown to get the desired look that the owner wanted.

[L.K Johnson]

Originally Posted by sgk

That is a beautiful timepiece you have there yourself!

So is mixing up dials and bezels an aftersales process and is this common?

Thanks and yes it’s pretty common and I don’t think AD:s at that time was very
meticulous with parts from different ref:s...if you wanted another bezel they would help you more or less...I have no proof of this but it’s just my feeling

[sgk]

Thank you both for the info. I am trying to source the correct domed plexiglass for this. Would you know the part number I should search for?

[Verdi]

It is one of the rare occasions when I say to take a vintage to RSC or Rolex authorized service. It may not make sense financially but if you want to restore it to look and work good....this is a good option.
Of course, you can go with an independent watchmaker too, some guys are able to outsource parts.

This watch looks in need of some care. I would instruct them to put the right bezel, change the plexi and service the movement.

This watch looks good on a leather strap....once its cleaned up, it is gonna look the part.

[sgk]

Originally Posted by Verdi

It is one of the rare occasions when I say to take a vintage to RSC or Rolex authorized service. It may not make sense financially but if you want to restore it to look and work good....this is a good option.
Of course, you can go with an independent watchmaker too, some guys are able to outsource parts.

This watch looks in need of some care. I would instruct them to put the right bezel, change the plexi and service the movement.

This watch looks good on a leather strap....once its cleaned up, it is gonna look the part.

Thanks for the advice. I actually like the looks as is especially the bezel. And if this was common practice back in the days then even better.

I will definitely have it serviced, plexi changed and jubilee cleaned. Might throw it on a strap later and use the jubilee on my GMT

[sgk]

I was thinking over the engine turned bezel and gold dial/hands for the past couple of days and comparing this to vintage Omegas which I also collect. In the Omega world, a watch is quickly labeled a ‘Franken’ when it has parts that do not correspond to the case reference.

Would the same thinking apply to the datejust I bought?

p.s. found that I need crystal 25-135 for this in case someone else is looking for the info.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by sgk

I was thinking over the engine turned bezel and gold dial/hands for the past couple of days and comparing this to vintage Omegas which I also collect. In the Omega world, a watch is quickly labeled a ‘Franken’ when it has parts that do not correspond to the case reference.

Would the same thinking apply to the datejust I bought?

p.s. found that I need crystal 25-135 for this in case someone else is looking for the info.

If you want to use that terminology, then I guess it fits. My take is that vintage Rolex collectors don't really care that much about DJs in general, so they don't make a big deal out of swapped parts, and the value doesn't take a huge hit. They are largely treated as decorative watches to wear instead of high-end collectible pieces.

That's why you'll get a lot of comments saying things like "parts were swapped in DJs all the time, no big deal." I guess this might change someday in the future if the value of vintage DJs goes up, and people really start to care about them as collectibles.

[L.K Johnson]

Originally Posted by Dan S

If you want to use that terminology, then I guess it fits. My take is that vintage Rolex collectors don't really care that much about DJs in general, so they don't make a big deal out of swapped parts, and the value doesn't take a huge hit. They are largely treated as decorative watches to wear instead of high-end collectible pieces.

That's why you'll get a lot of comments saying things like "parts were swapped in DJs all the time, no big deal." I guess this might change someday in the future if the value of vintage DJs goes up, and people really start to care about them as collectibles.

I totally agree to this! Very well put!

[Nick9]

If there is a contest for "modified DateJusts", this one of mine might take it.

Started its life as a 9 mil serial Ref 16000, so around 1986. If I were betting, I'd say bezel for sure, hands, possibly dial. The bracelet has a lot of stretch, so I'd say 50:50. The date wheel appears to have made the journey.

And relentlessly polished, as well. (Not by me.)

Not at all a treasured original vintage collectible, but nevertheless a nice enough daily wearer if you like something a little on the dressy side.

[sgk]

Originally Posted by Dan S

If you want to use that terminology, then I guess it fits. My take is that vintage Rolex collectors don't really care that much about DJs in general, so they don't make a big deal out of swapped parts, and the value doesn't take a huge hit. They are largely treated as decorative watches to wear instead of high-end collectible pieces.

That's why you'll get a lot of comments saying things like "parts were swapped in DJs all the time, no big deal." I guess this might change someday in the future if the value of vintage DJs goes up, and people really start to care about them as collectibles.

I think you’re right.
I am new to vintage Rolex but have been a ‘watch guy’ for a long time. This means letting go some watches to acquire other pieces. To keep this expensive hobby economically viable, I would be lying if I said value retention doesn’t matter. And if the value of a datejust is strongly tied to originality, I want to be mindful of that.
Great to hear that isn’t always the case as I got mine based on aesthetics and that it had the right amount of age. And at $2900, it was fair I think.

I am really enjoying wearing it :)

[sgk]

Originally Posted by Nick9

If there is a contest for "modified DateJusts", this one of mine might take it.

Started its life as a 9 mil serial Ref 16000, so around 1986. If I were betting, I'd say bezel for sure, hands, possibly dial. The bracelet has a lot of stretch, so I'd say 50:50. The date wheel appears to have made the journey.

And relentlessly polished, as well. (Not by me.)

Not at all a treasured original vintage collectible, but nevertheless a nice enough daily wearer if you like something a little on the dressy side.

Looks great in my opinion and a bit more dressier than mine. Wear it in good health.

[Nick9]

Thanks. I have come to appreciate that 36 mm is a nice wearable size for me, and of course the DJ "look" is classic. Best of all, you don't need a second job to afford them.

[L.K Johnson]

I really love the jubilee bracelet when it has been worn, it just gets that patina that is impossible to mimic unless you wear it in different weather conditions and thru whatever live throws at you...every scratch tells a story and that’s just fantastic...starting to tear up just thinking about it : )