Sub 114060 vs Sea Dweller 16600

[txaggie9307]

Originally Posted by Wrist Watcher

Thanks for the further feedback guys. And to answer this question, it's because it's now going for insane prices ... $13k or more for one in great shape. I had it a few years ago and shouldn't have sold it based on current resale prices! Haha. I enjoyed it while I had it but it definitely wore heavier and thicker than the Sub and, therefore, was not as comfortable as the Sub on my wrist.

The only thing you can do is try on the 16600 and see if you like it. Scrap valuation thoughts and go with what sings to your heart, if it’s the 114060 then so be it too!

A few grand here or there won’t make a difference down the road in terms of investment potential which both of these watches are neither imo (unless it’s a nos 16600 with stickers ).


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[doramas]

Originally Posted by Wrist Watcher

Thanks for the further feedback guys. And to answer this question, it's because it's now going for insane prices ... $13k or more for one in great shape. I had it a few years ago and shouldn't have sold it based on current resale prices! Haha. I enjoyed it while I had it but it definitely wore heavier and thicker than the Sub and, therefore, was not as comfortable as the Sub on my wrist.

I understand you.

[Token74]

Originally Posted by Wrist Watcher

Thank you. I’ve read that about the longer 6:00 side. That does concern me some given that my wrist isn’t big and I typically remove about three links from my six-digit models.

I had a 16600 and had my AD remove one of the permanent links to balance everything out, worked fine.

I’ve also had a 116613LB which is a little different to the steel model but wears the same in terms of size.

I found the 116613 wore a touch big on my 6.5” wrist. The 16600 wore really well but it is a top heavy watch so balance isn’t quite right.

The 116600 combines the best of both and is perfect on a 6.5” wrist.

As much as a love Sea Dwellers, I wouldn’t buy a 16600 again (because it’s too heavy) and would do for a 116610 or a 114060 either as the case is a bit too square and makes it wear large. I would go 5513 or 116600.


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[Ketler]

16600...

[Andad]

Lucky to have all three.

The 14060M is my weekly wearer on a NATO.

The 114060 clasp adjustment and maxi dial are nice features and it doesn’t wear big on a 7.5” wrist.

The 16600 can feel a touch top heavy In comparison but the engineering is brilliant.

If I hadn’t to choose one out of those three it would be difficult but the 16600 SD would just win.

[mailman]

Originally Posted by Andad

Lucky to have all three.

The 14060M is my weekly wearer on a NATO.

The 114060 clasp adjustment and maxi dial are nice features and it doesn’t wear big on a 7.5” wrist.

The 16600 can feel a touch top heavy In comparison but the engineering is brilliant.

If I hadn’t to choose one out of those three it would be difficult but the 16600 SD would just win.

There's an added bonus of the prior owner of your 16600

[Simon_jrees]

Originally Posted by Wrist Watcher

I don’t normally ask these comparison questions, and I know this one has been asked before, but which one of these would you choose and why? Which wears better? I have a 6.5”-6.75” wrist. Factor in the fact that the SD will cost more, perhaps a good bit more if I go with a mint and full set one.

I own and have owned a ton of six-digit models but have never had a five-digit model so I’m tempted to try one. I have narrowed it down to the SD 16600 or perhaps the 14060m if I go that route, or I’ll go with what I’m familiar with and get the SubC 114060.

Thanks in advance for the opinions.

I haven't tried on a SD but I have a 114060. If I'd had a choice of the two in front of me I still would have gone for the 114060... simple reason is I prefer it as a SS model.

[Wrist Watcher]

Warning: long update.

As an update, I had the opportunity to try on the 14060m, 114060 (wears like my other 6-digit subs of course) and the 116600 again after about 3 years removed from it. Unfortunately, I still haven’t had a chance to try on a 16600 but I assume it’ll be somewhere between the 14060 and the 114060.

A few observations on my wrist:

14060M 4-Liner

- The 14060M “may” have been the best for my wrist. I emphasis “may” because I couldn’t size the bracelet and I keep remembering comments about it being difficult to go below five links on the 6:00 side. My six-digit subs have just four links on the 6:00 side to give me the best fit. So I’m not sure if and how the 14060 bracelet would work on my wrist.

- Outside of the bracelet sizing unknown, the smaller case, thinner lugs, and lighter bracelet good holding it on my wrist. If the bracelet fit works, I can tell it would wear very light and almost unnoticeable on my wrist. The crazy thing is that, while I think this is a good thing, I wonder if it’s too light, small, and almost “fragile” feeling (I know it’s not fragile).????

116600

- Consistent with my precious short-term ownership experience, this one wore the heaviest on the wrist ... but surprisingly not much heavier than the 114060. I thought from prior experience it wore a lot heavier than my sub, but it didn’t feel much heavier when playing with them in the shop. It could be due to the fact that I didn’t wear it for hours and only held it for a few minutes.

- Despite being slightly heavier than the 114060, the weight works nicely with the bracelet and case shape. I like the slightly trimmer lugs than the 114060, and the bracelet is fantastic of course.

- I like the dial size, which is slightly smaller than the sub, and I like the matte dial too. Honestly, I wish I wouldn’t have sold my last one.

114060

- When comparing this to the 4-liner 14060M, there’s no denying that it simply feels like the nicer watch. It’s heavier, more robust, more solid feeling, and shinier. The bracelet is the biggest difference here as the 114060 is much heavier and sturdier feeling and the glidelock is amazing, but the case also just looks and feels larger. I prefer the thinner lugs of the 14060, but overall I think I prefer the looks and feel of the 114060. Once you factor in the price, which is essentially even these days if I were to get a mint 14060M full set, it’s hard for me to buy the M over the six digit. If the M could still be had at $5-$7k, that would make the decision more difficult.

- Having said the above, I know from experience with my other subs that the 114060 doesn’t work well with aftermarket straps. I like the idea of swapping the bracelet from time to time to mix it up, and I know the 114060 won’t be as good as the M here. Having said that, it’s a small compromise for me as IMO rubber straps from Rubber B and Everest look just fine on the six digit sub.

- Comparing the 114060 to the 116600 is where things get tricky. Honestly, I like things about both. Both have a fantastic bracelet, both look fantastic IMO, I prefer the trimmer lugs on the SD, and I think I prefer the gloss black dial of the Sub. Both wear good on my wrist: not too light by any means but not too heavy or thick either. The biggest differentiator here is the price. Similar to the 114060 to 14060M comparison, the $4-$5k higher price tag of the SD makes it hard to choose. If the prices were equal or if the SD was still around $10k-$10.5k, I think I would choose it. But given that the SD is anywhere from upper $12k to $15k+, that makes it difficult to choose over the Sub.

CONCLUSION

- If price was close to equal, I would likely pick up the 116600 again. Heck, if I could find one for $12k I might do it. But at a price point above that, it’s the 114060 that I will choose from these three.

- I really wish I could see and hold the 16600 as I’m still curious as to how that would wear. For some reason my gut says it’ll be awesome and sit somewhere between the 116600 and the 14060 for comfort, but the bracelet link issue at 6:00 concerns me here like it does with the 14060. I really need just four links at 6:00.

- Few pics to end with:

[JRell]

Love the 114060 best watch ever made!

[ndls]

I recently had to (first world problem) decide on this, and put a 50% deposit on an SD4K. It’s almost new, barely worn, and babied by a collector. Not only will I be the second owner, but it’s from an AD that I’ve purchased from before, but it was also unnamed.

I digress. Simple matter for me - I had to chose the 116600. I have a BLNR and CHNR so having the SD4Ks tapered lug is nice.






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[Wrist Watcher]

Originally Posted by ndls

I recently had to (first world problem) decide on this, and put a 50% deposit on an SD4K. It’s almost new, barely worn, and babied by a collector. Not only will I be the second owner, but it’s from an AD that I’ve purchased from before, but it was also unnamed.

I digress. Simple matter for me - I had to chose the 116600. I have a BLNR and CHNR so having the SD4Ks tapered lug is nice.






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That looks fantastic. Congrats!

[Andad]

Originally Posted by mailman

There's an added bonus of the prior owner of your 16600

Too true Paulie and I always feel different when I wear it.

He is never far away from me.

[Rollied]

Originally Posted by iTreelex

16600 because I like the SD and prefer a date complication. It wears a tad smaller even compared to the 14060m. One thing to watch out with 5 digit models is that the bracelet on the 6 o'clock side has 5 permanent links which may be too long for some. A permanent link removal may be warranted.

This is my main gripe regarding 5 digit sport models as someone who has a 6.25” wrist. For me, the 5 digit refs wear much better on my wrist than their 6 digit counterparts, however, I could NEVER get a balanced bracelet on those dang 5 digit refs!!