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Old 26 January 2019, 06:07 AM   #1
inadeje
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Rolex GMT 16710 Jubilee 62510H Guide

Since I recently purchased a 16710 with the oyster bracelet and, wanted to also purchase and, fit, a Jubilee, I read forum post after forum post concerning this subject. The replies were very confusing so I thought I would clarify with my own experience. There are hundreds of people who have done or, are trying to do the same thing, so I thought I’d offer my advice and, explain what I did.

Super Jubilee Bracelet

Many people have suggested fitting the super jubilee and, in effect both the 63600 and, the 63200 will fit both the hole and no-hole 5-digit cases but, only with 1.8mm spring bars. The slimmer spring bars make no difference and, there is no play whatsoever when used instead of the standard 2mm variants and the super jubilee. There are positives and negatives of fitting the later super jubilee to a hole or no holes 5-digit GMT or Sub. The only positive is that the bracelet, being modern, feels sturdier in the hand but, feels identical when fitted and worn. The negatives are the price, at anything from $1500 to $3000, these are not cheap. The other negative is that the Super Jubilee offers almost no micro-adjustment. It is true that half links can be sourced but, they are not easy to acquire and, are expensive. Finally, the super jubilee is not period correct for the 5-digit Rolexes and, if you are like me, you’ll want your Rolex looking as original as possible.

Original Jubilee GMT bracelet 62510H "50"

The original bracelet, sold as an option for the GMT 16710 was the 62510H "50". The 50 was stamped on the right-hand last link of the bracelet, right before the end links (see photo). However, the ONLY difference, technically between a 62510H "50" and, a standard 62510H is the center spring bar retainers, which on the 50 are 2 tenths of a millimeter larger. Yes, 0.2 of a millimeter. There are no other differences at all. If you can find a 50 stamped bracelet it will be so prohibitively expensive that it makes zero sense, in my view, unless you don’t care about the cost.

Solution to the abundant and standard 62510H bracelet

There are many more standard 62510H bracelets out there than the very rare 62510H "50". The standard bracelet is also much cheaper, with a pristine version selling for anything between $500 and $800 whereas, the few 62510H "50" I saw were in the neighborhood of $2500-$3000. Massive price difference for what is essentially 0.02 mm… Therefore, what I did was purchase 10 x jewelers diamond round needle files on ebay for $11. The size 140 mm x 3mm (the 140mm is the shank, so really it makes no difference if its longer or shorter as its only held in hand). You will note that 3mm sounds too large but, the ends taper down to 0.02mm, as you can see in the images. Removing the 0.2mm required with these files is rather simple. One takes each end piece (folding the other out of the way) and, simply turn/rotate the file within the end link for a few minutes. Remove the file and, enter from the other side, turning the file again until both sides are done. After a few minutes, the 0.02 mm will be removed and, your spring bar will enter. Repeat this process with the other three individual end links. The amount removed is so tiny that it cannot be seen with the naked eye and, does not affect the integrity of the end links.

End Links 502T

If you have a no hole’s case, you need the 502T end-links. If you have a hole case you can fit either 502T or 502. The only difference between the T and non-T is the cut-outs underneath that allow the spring bars to be compressed on the no-hole case variants. Therefore, 502Ts will fit a hole case but, standard 502 will technically fit the no-hole case, but you’d have no way to compress the spring bars, because of the absence of slots. Sharp handymen with a Dremel could easily convert a standard 502 into a 502T with a 4-5 mm bremel head but, I found some cheap 502Ts and went that route.

I hope that this helps others wishing to install a jubilee on a 5 digit GMT or Sub.

Cheers





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Old 26 January 2019, 06:54 AM   #2
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Very interesting read. When I went to Rolex to get a jubilee in August they sold me a ‘50’ bracelet as the part to go with the 16710 along with the 502T end links. Cost was £850. I assume you could purchase one of these from an RSC if you wished for a whole lot less than $2,500.

That said, if you can purchase the other one and lightly modify for a load less then why not.


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Old 26 January 2019, 07:00 AM   #3
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This is helpful. I was considering the same thing.
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Old 26 January 2019, 07:02 AM   #4
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Woooow, too bad I cant like a post on this forum! As someone planning on a 16710 acquisition in a year or so this is quality gold info!
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Old 26 January 2019, 07:17 AM   #5
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Well.

"2 tenths of a millimeter larger. Yes, 0.02 of a millimeter.".

You mean 0,2mm.

Please note the typo.

2.0mm springbars versus 1.8mm springbars. The former for a GMT and the latter for a DJ.
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Old 26 January 2019, 07:29 AM   #6
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Well.

"2 tenths of a millimeter larger. Yes, 0.02 of a millimeter.".

You mean 0,2mm.

Please note the typo.

2.0mm springbars versus 1.8mm springbars. The former for a GMT and the latter for a DJ.
Corrected
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Old 26 January 2019, 07:34 AM   #7
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Very interesting read. When I went to Rolex to get a jubilee in August they sold me a ‘50’ bracelet as the part to go with the 16710 along with the 502T end links. Cost was £850. I assume you could purchase one of these from an RSC if you wished for a whole lot less than $2,500.

That said, if you can purchase the other one and lightly modify for a load less then why not.


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Yes. I have read that some AD and RSC will sell the bracelet, however, experience in the U.S is negative. At least from my personal experience and, forum posts. Its hit and miss whether they will sell a bracelet but, if they will sell it, its the best route. Mine came, all-in for around 1K USD (bracelet, end links bought separately, the needle files and, my time at 5 mins per end link :)
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Old 26 January 2019, 07:44 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by inadeje View Post
Yes. I have read that some AD and RSC will sell the bracelet, however, experience in the U.S is negative. At least from my personal experience and, forum posts. Its hit and miss whether they will sell a bracelet but, if they will sell it, its the best route. Mine came, all-in for around 1K USD (bracelet, end links bought separately, the needle files and, my time at 5 mins per end link :)


Less than it would have cost you anyway, so a good deal. I don’t know why Rolex don’t keep the rules the same everywhere as it would be so much easier. Still, good that you’ve got it. The jubilee is a great option for a change up.


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Old 26 January 2019, 07:46 AM   #9
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You should factor in that even though it might be cheaper to buy an alternative - it will also sell for much less - and even not at all. People hate alternatives when the buy used. They want it original. Just saying.

If you buy it to keep - that is of course a different matter.
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Old 26 January 2019, 09:23 AM   #10
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Have you tried this thread? It addresses the flat link and oval link Jubilees as well as some others.

https://www.gmtforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=139

By the way, the reason most purists opt for the GMT Jubilee 50/550 instead of the Datejust Jubilee is because they want the correct bracelet for their GMT. Personally, I'd rather buy an aftermarket Jubilee than modify a genuine Jubilee to make it fit a watch that it was never intended for.
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Old 26 January 2019, 10:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by springer View Post
Have you tried this thread? It addresses the flat link and oval link Jubilees as well as some others.

https://www.gmtforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=139

By the way, the reason most purists opt for the GMT Jubilee 50/550 instead of the Datejust Jubilee is because they want the correct bracelet for their GMT. Personally, I'd rather buy an aftermarket Jubilee than modify a genuine Jubilee to make it fit a watch that it was never intended for.
I read the link, Thanks. My friend has the “50” bracelet. I have looked at both side by side with a loop. The only difference I can see is on the clasp, mine has a tiny AD6 while his has DT4. Otherwise the clasp is identical in every way, same applies to the bracelet, which is identical, including the link shape...
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Old 28 January 2019, 05:08 AM   #12
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Thanks you for posting. Great read.

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Old 28 January 2019, 05:29 AM   #13
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Thanks for posting inadeje.
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Old 28 January 2019, 05:32 AM   #14
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Thanks you for posting. Great read.

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Old 28 January 2019, 05:33 AM   #15
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Thanks for posting inadeje.
I will post the finished job later this week when DHL delivers the 502T I bought from my trusted oem parts source in Germany
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Old 28 January 2019, 05:53 AM   #16
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In for later reference, thanks inadeje!
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Old 28 January 2019, 07:05 AM   #17
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Buy

Last year I purchased several Jubilees for US members as my UK ad is very helpful .
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Old 28 January 2019, 07:20 AM   #18
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I read the link, Thanks. My friend has the “50” bracelet. I have looked at both side by side with a loop. The only difference I can see is on the clasp, mine has a tiny AD6 while his has DT4. Otherwise the clasp is identical in every way, same applies to the bracelet, which is identical, including the link shape...
AD6 and DT4 are date codes, both of which are circa 2002-2003 time period. The "50" ends differ from yours as they don't have the "bird's beak" shape in the end and are instead fully round and free to move. Yours will butt up against the inside of the endlinks and be limited in travel. It's a small difference but noticeable if you're used to it. Compare your modified bracelet to your friend's "50" and you'll spot it immediately and without a loupe.
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Old 28 January 2019, 11:43 PM   #19
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Personally, I'd rather buy an aftermarket Jubilee than modify a genuine Jubilee to make it fit a watch that it was never intended for.
the super jubilee, the 63600 bracelet that is sold with the DJ41 fits very well on the 16710... there is absolutely 0 modification necessary. it fits snug and feels amazing on the wrist.
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Old 31 January 2019, 09:23 AM   #20
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AD6 and DT4 are date codes, both of which are circa 2002-2003 time period. The "50" ends differ from yours as they don't have the "bird's beak" shape in the end and are instead fully round and free to move. Yours will butt up against the inside of the endlinks and be limited in travel. It's a small difference but noticeable if you're used to it. Compare your modified bracelet to your friend's "50" and you'll spot it immediately and without a loupe.
Beak spotted! Hadn’t seen that. Will advise, still waiting for end-links from Germany...DHL
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Old 9 February 2019, 07:30 AM   #21
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Very interesting read. I have been ready for a jubilee for my GMT for a long time.
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Old 9 February 2019, 08:34 AM   #22
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This is a great post and might save me some money down the road! Thanks, Sir!
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Old 9 February 2019, 08:59 AM   #23
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This is a great post and might save me some money down the road! Thanks, Sir!
Thanks, I am going to do a final update with photos but, I am still awaiting the 502T end-links from my trusted oem part source in Germany. There have been a few points raised on the thread which I will hopefully be able to clarify soon.
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Old 17 February 2019, 06:29 AM   #24
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Today my 502T end links arrived from my trusted OEM parts source in Germany (see his data below) so, I am finishing my guide for TRF members, who wish to fit a period original Jubilee bracelet to their 5-digit GMT or, any other Rolex 5-digits. As I explained earlier in the thread, owners have the option of pursuing (in my view) the very expensive “50” bracelet which, as I have remarked, offers zero external difference to the standard jubilee. Or, acquiring a perfect and, easier to source, standard Jubilee 62510H and, carrying out this 10-minute modification.

The "bird's beak" fallacy

TRF member 037, who is a respected member and, I do not wish to upset or challenge, made the following remark: “The "50" ends differ from yours as they don't have the "bird's beak" shape in the end and are instead fully round and free to move. Yours will butt up against the inside of the end-links and be limited in travel”

Sorry 037, this statement is untrue. Anyone installing the 502T, after my mods above, on the standard jubilee, will note that the so called "bird's beak “actually looks like it’s designed to impede full lateral movement of the bracelet when the bracelet is at 90-degrees to the end link, by stopping movement at exactly the 90 degrees angle. Now, unless you have a pencil wrist and, as such, your bracelet literally descends from the case at an improbable (and impossible) 90-degree angle, then the "bird's beak" fallacy is a myth, that I am happy to bust. Anyone with a human wrist would not have their bracelet exiting the end-link (case) and, falling 90 degrees from the end-link.

Conclusion

My bracelet is the exact period of my watch, in all intents and purposes, unless you use a microscope and, knew what to look for, you would not even see these supposed "bird's beak". In fact, when 037 mentioned it, I dismantled my friends watch again, which has the “50” bracelet and, after putting the standard Jubilee 62510H by the side of the “50”, it’s almost indiscernible to the naked eye. Essentially, two tiny 0.5mm, what I would call, Butt Stops (not beaks) on the standard Jubilee 62510H which, in fact, seem to serve a purpose, by disallowing the bracelet to fold entirely under the case back.

I would therefore urge members to utilize the standard Jubilee 62510H which, as I have said, is infinitely lower in cost than the “50”, with ZERO difference, other than this now mythical and, almost invisible, butt stop (beak) that, the untrained eye would have serious difficulty even seeing.
I attach the photos of the 502T, photos of the bracelet up against the end-links in both positions and, the final result of my GMT Stick Dial with its pristine Jubilee and, new end links.

Total cost

Pristine Jubilee from the period $760
502T end links in sealed Rolex blister $360 (I found SH but, there was only $100 difference)
Files $11

Total Cost 1131 USD

I hope to have helped and, if anyone has any questions, reply to the post or, PM me. I would be glad to help.


Special thanks to Malte my trusted OEM parts source in Germany. Email: naranjamecanica (a) gmx.de

He can source most parts and lists a few on ebay.

https://m.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-an...erIds=13975852









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Old 17 February 2019, 06:50 AM   #25
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I would take the '50' stamped jubilee over a molested Date-Just jubilee any day
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Old 17 February 2019, 09:32 AM   #26
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[QUOTE=inadeje;9356703]Today my 502T end links arrived from my trusted OEM parts source in Germany (see his data below) so, I am finishing my guide for TRF members, who wish to fit a period original Jubilee bracelet to their 5-digit GMT or, any other Rolex 5-digits. As I explained earlier in the thread, owners have the option of pursuing (in my view) the very expensive “50” bracelet which, as I have remarked, offers zero external difference to the standard jubilee. Or, acquiring a perfect and, easier to source, standard Jubilee 62510H and, carrying out this 10-minute modification.

The "bird's beak" fallacy

TRF member 037, who is a respected member and, I do not wish to upset or challenge, made the following remark: “The "50" ends differ from yours as they don't have the "bird's beak" shape in the end and are instead fully round and free to move. Yours will butt up against the inside of the end-links and be limited in travel”

Sorry 037, this statement is untrue. Anyone installing the 502T, after my mods above, on the standard jubilee, will note that the so called "bird's beak “actually looks like it’s designed to impede full lateral movement of the bracelet when the bracelet is at 90-degrees to the end link, by stopping movement at exactly the 90 degrees angle. Now, unless you have a pencil wrist and, as such, your bracelet literally descends from the case at an improbable (and impossible) 90-degree angle, then the "bird's beak" fallacy is a myth, that I am happy to bust. Anyone with a human wrist would not have their bracelet exiting the end-link (case) and, falling 90 degrees from the end-link.

Conclusion

My bracelet is the exact period of my watch, in all intents and purposes, unless you use a microscope and, knew what to look for, you would not even see these supposed "bird's beak". In fact, when 037 mentioned it, I dismantled my friends watch again, which has the “50” bracelet and, after putting the standard Jubilee 62510H by the side of the “50”, it’s almost indiscernible to the naked eye. Essentially, two tiny 0.5mm, what I would call, Butt Stops (not beaks) on the standard Jubilee 62510H which, in fact, seem to serve a purpose, by disallowing the bracelet to fold entirely under the case back.

I would therefore urge members to utilize the standard Jubilee 62510H which, as I have said, is infinitely lower in cost than the “50”, with ZERO difference, other than this now mythical and, almost invisible, butt stop (beak) that, the untrained eye would have serious difficulty even seeing.
I attach the photos of the 502T, photos of the bracelet up against the end-links in both positions and, the final result of my GMT Stick Dial with its pristine Jubilee and, new end links.

Total cost

Pristine Jubilee from the period $760
502T end links in sealed Rolex blister $360 (I found SH but, there was only $100 difference)
Files $11

Total Cost 1131 USD

I hope to have helped and, if anyone has any questions, reply to the post or, PM me. I would be glad to help.


__________________________________________________ ________


I'd rather spend the $1300 or $1500 for a correct bracelet. I know they're out there in that price range since I've sold a couple of GMT Jubilees the past couple of months. The other thing about the GMT Jubilees is there is always someone looking for one so they are easy to sell and recover your investment when you are ready to move it.

Most guys that I know that can afford a nice GMT II can afford to spend a few hundred more for a correct bracelet.
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Old 17 February 2019, 09:51 AM   #27
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Springer “50” bracelets at the prices you offer weren’t available to me. If you have them those who read my thread will surely be clamoring to contact you :)
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Old 17 February 2019, 10:27 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by inadeje View Post
Springer “50” bracelets at the prices you offer weren’t available to me. If you have them those who read my thread will surely be clamoring to contact you :)
I do not have any for sale right now but I'm sure there are others around here and elsewhere on the internet which have them for sale.
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Old 19 February 2019, 11:35 PM   #29
rpl77
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Great post, very helpful information indeed! I just purchased a 16710, no holes case, and want to get a jubillee bracelet too. Forgive me if I missed the info below, but if I purchase a 63600 super jubille bracelet, do I still need to purchase the 502T end links? Thanks in advance!


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Originally Posted by inadeje View Post
Since I recently purchased a 16710 with the oyster bracelet and, wanted to also purchase and, fit, a Jubilee, I read forum post after forum post concerning this subject. The replies were very confusing so I thought I would clarify with my own experience. There are hundreds of people who have done or, are trying to do the same thing, so I thought I’d offer my advice and, explain what I did.

Super Jubilee Bracelet

Many people have suggested fitting the super jubilee and, in effect both the 63600 and, the 63200 will fit both the hole and no-hole 5-digit cases but, only with 1.8mm spring bars. The slimmer spring bars make no difference and, there is no play whatsoever when used instead of the standard 2mm variants and the super jubilee. There are positives and negatives of fitting the later super jubilee to a hole or no holes 5-digit GMT or Sub. The only positive is that the bracelet, being modern, feels sturdier in the hand but, feels identical when fitted and worn. The negatives are the price, at anything from $1500 to $3000, these are not cheap. The other negative is that the Super Jubilee offers almost no micro-adjustment. It is true that half links can be sourced but, they are not easy to acquire and, are expensive. Finally, the super jubilee is not period correct for the 5-digit Rolexes and, if you are like me, you’ll want your Rolex looking as original as possible.

Original Jubilee GMT bracelet 62510H "50"

The original bracelet, sold as an option for the GMT 16710 was the 62510H "50". The 50 was stamped on the right-hand last link of the bracelet, right before the end links (see photo). However, the ONLY difference, technically between a 62510H "50" and, a standard 62510H is the center spring bar retainers, which on the 50 are 2 tenths of a millimeter larger. Yes, 0.2 of a millimeter. There are no other differences at all. If you can find a 50 stamped bracelet it will be so prohibitively expensive that it makes zero sense, in my view, unless you don’t care about the cost.

Solution to the abundant and standard 62510H bracelet

There are many more standard 62510H bracelets out there than the very rare 62510H "50". The standard bracelet is also much cheaper, with a pristine version selling for anything between $500 and $800 whereas, the few 62510H "50" I saw were in the neighborhood of $2500-$3000. Massive price difference for what is essentially 0.02 mm… Therefore, what I did was purchase 10 x jewelers diamond round needle files on ebay for $11. The size 140 mm x 3mm (the 140mm is the shank, so really it makes no difference if its longer or shorter as its only held in hand). You will note that 3mm sounds too large but, the ends taper down to 0.02mm, as you can see in the images. Removing the 0.2mm required with these files is rather simple. One takes each end piece (folding the other out of the way) and, simply turn/rotate the file within the end link for a few minutes. Remove the file and, enter from the other side, turning the file again until both sides are done. After a few minutes, the 0.02 mm will be removed and, your spring bar will enter. Repeat this process with the other three individual end links. The amount removed is so tiny that it cannot be seen with the naked eye and, does not affect the integrity of the end links.

End Links 502T

If you have a no hole’s case, you need the 502T end-links. If you have a hole case you can fit either 502T or 502. The only difference between the T and non-T is the cut-outs underneath that allow the spring bars to be compressed on the no-hole case variants. Therefore, 502Ts will fit a hole case but, standard 502 will technically fit the no-hole case, but you’d have no way to compress the spring bars, because of the absence of slots. Sharp handymen with a Dremel could easily convert a standard 502 into a 502T with a 4-5 mm bremel head but, I found some cheap 502Ts and went that route.

I hope that this helps others wishing to install a jubilee on a 5 digit GMT or Sub.

Cheers





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Old 20 February 2019, 12:22 PM   #30
inadeje
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpl77 View Post
Great post, very helpful information indeed! I just purchased a 16710, no holes case, and want to get a jubillee bracelet too. Forgive me if I missed the info below, but if I purchase a 63600 super jubille bracelet, do I still need to purchase the 502T end links? Thanks in advance!
No. Because that super jubilee has the end links incorporated into the bracelet. It will fit straight on with no mods needed. However, I didn’t take that route because the super jubilee isn’t period to any 5 digit reference. Looks just as cool though!
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