Disturbed by a detail about the new Rolex 1908's movement

[bcontinental]

Disturbed by something I read here:

Time and Tide
VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition?
timeandtidewatches(DOT)com/versus-is-the-rolex-perpetual-1908-a-calatrava-killing-value-proposition/


"It’s a Rolex with a display caseback! And what a lovely sight it is – polished screw heads and a nicely solarised ratched wheel contrast against the côtes de Rolex, the brand’s own take on the classic striping method. However, as nice as the finishing is, there are some shortcuts and evidence of a machine being involved. For one, the chamfers are razor-thin and applied only on the balance bridge and balance-side of the barrel bridge. Those gold chatons? Well, they’re actually machined grooves that have been gold-plated."


I think the machine finishing and 'gold chatons' actually look very nice. My main concern is whether Rolex may have cut corners in other aspects of movements, given there have been documented reliability issues regarding their new movements.

Thoughts?

[diracpoint]

Welcome to the forum!

Yeah, I'm not a fan of those display case backs on Rolex. The movements don't look very good, especially at those price points. I'd rather have a solid pm case back.

But, to be fair, I believe many entry-level Pateks also have machine finishing. I think only Langes have the same standard of finishing for all of their watches ... at least, so they claim.

[MILGAUSS88]

Patek Phillipe does not use gold chatons at all.
At their price point, that is what seems ridiculous to me.

You can find gold chatons in Glashutte Original watches for $6-8k.
You can find millions of examples if you look at pocket watches or 1930's wristwatches.
Pressed jewels only became the standard, because it was cheaper to produce a watch that way.

It seems to me, that with technology, that would only be easier to produce watches with gold chatons now. Seems like a rip off to me, that most of the high end Swiss companies don't use them.

[Smobews]

That detail completely ruined it for me. I can’t believe they put in a crappy fake detail like that.

[ArtNouveau]

Are people really losing sleep over the appearance and construction of a watch movement?
I’m grateful I’ve just been wearing them since my teens.

[77T]

Seems like Rolex has made a handsome movement worth displaying and people look for ways to chip at it.

They aren’t chatons but decorated beveled jewel apertures. A nice embellishment.

Being appreciably thinner than an Oyster case, the 50m WR makes a good vehicle for a presentation level display back.

Looks nicer than any 3235, don’t you think?


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[Kevin of Larchmont]

OP, I think you shouldn’t buy the 1908 if you find it disturbing. I also think that others who don’t share your concern will be perfectly happy with it. And if you have further concerns about Rolex’s other new movements there is plenty written here already to keep you entertained.

Welcome to the forum.

[samuel019]

Originally Posted by 77T

Seems like Rolex has made a handsome movement worth displaying and people look for ways to chip at it.

They aren’t chatons but decorated beveled jewel apertures. A nice embellishment.

Being appreciably thinner than an Oyster case, the 50m WR makes a good vehicle for a presentation level display back.

Looks nicer than any 3235, don’t you think?


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Agreed Paul

I think some need to realize that exhibition casebacks, only exhibition watches isnt what Rolex is known for these last 100 years

So trying to compare them to watch companies that are known for that is gonna be major fail but you can bet the Rolex will be able to take more of a beating. And I'm sure there's a price to be paid for that

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by MILGAUSS88

Patek Phillipe does not use gold chatons at all. At their price point, that is what seems ridiculous to me.

Marketing and herd mentality trump reality in this case imho. Group-think blind followers still believe a long-outdated 1960s scheme (trilogy). Still happens all the time, even here on TRF. Some blindly follow the money / flipping, instead of what is obviously a higher horology timepiece.

I see the Rolex as a good value, and as you pointed out there are brands that produce timepieces with 'classic' decoration / features that take watchmaker handcrafting / time.

Changing of the many decades old / outdated 'trinity' would go a long way to showcasing true high-horology.

Blame could be placed on those who perpetrate three mainstream brands as top-tier, since it does a disservice in educating both newcomers and those with a bit more knowledge / experience.

jmho

[AF_Rob]

Originally Posted by ArtNouveau

Are people really losing sleep over the appearance and construction of a watch movement?

It seems so. Details matter, I would be losing sleep too.


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[omar-rye]

‘Faux Chaton’

It’s got a nice ring to it, if I may say so

[Tools]

An article by another watch snob whose tastes are so much more superior than the common-mans Rolex could possibly achieve.

Nothing new here.

[Calatrava r]

I prefer solid gold case backs on Rolex.

[Calatrava r]

Originally Posted by MILGAUSS88

Patek Phillipe does not use gold chatons at all.
At their price point, that is what seems ridiculous to me.

You can find gold chatons in Glashutte Original watches for $6-8k.
You can find millions of examples if you look at pocket watches or 1930's wristwatches.
Pressed jewels only became the standard, because it was cheaper to produce a watch that way.

It seems to me, that with technology, that would only be easier to produce watches with gold chatons now. Seems like a rip off to me, that most of the high end Swiss companies don't use them.

Interesting to know. Thanks.

[goodolejr]

Originally Posted by Calatrava r

I prefer solid gold case backs on Rolex.

I as well. For one thing, the added weight feels more premium. Second, sapphire doesn't breath very well against skin.

[MILGAUSS88]

To clarify I do not expect gold chatons in a Rolex.

I do expect them in a VC, AP or PP. If Rolex wants to raise their Cellini line to the haute horology level, then I think they should use gold chatons as well. I don't know if that is what they are really trying to do.

I have a pocket watch background, and it drives me nuts that the current watch companies act like it is so incredibly time consuming to add geneva stripes, pearlage, enamel dials and gold chatons, when there were millions of pocket watch movements made that way 100 years ago, all without CAD. And for around $350-500 when adjusted for inflation.

[Kevin of Larchmont]

Originally Posted by MILGAUSS88

To clarify I do not expect gold chatons in a Rolex.

I do expect them in a VC, AP or PP. If Rolex wants to raise their Cellini line to the haute horology level, then I think they should use gold chatons as well. I don't know if that is what they are really trying to do.

I have a pocket watch background, and it drives me nuts that the current watch companies act like it is so incredibly time consuming to add geneva stripes, pearlage, enamel dials and gold chatons, when there millions of pocket watch movements made that way 100 years ago, all without CAD. And for around $350-500 when adjusted for inflation.

Solid watch content.

[Greenp]

Originally Posted by MILGAUSS88

Patek Phillipe does not use gold chatons at all.
At their price point, that is what seems ridiculous to me.

You can find gold chatons in Glashutte Original watches for $6-8k.
You can find millions of examples if you look at pocket watches or 1930's wristwatches.
Pressed jewels only became the standard, because it was cheaper to produce a watch that way.

It seems to me, that with technology, that would only be easier to produce watches with gold chatons now. Seems like a rip off to me, that most of the high end Swiss companies don't use them.

Dornblueth & Sohn ~$6k also.

[sevykor]

If genuinely interested in what sells Rolex and is also gold, here it is.



As long as that logo is on the dial, most people don’t care whats inside or visible through the little window on the back. VC, AP and PP buyers are predominantly different from the average Rolex buyer…


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[amh]

So Rolex is dead to you? Ok. More for the rest of us, perhaps this means supply will loosen up!

[Dayton ssb]

I suspect that the more open case backs they make in other models the quality may improve..


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[Guppydriver]

Originally Posted by omar-rye

‘Faux Chaton’

It’s got a nice ring to it, if I may say so

It's my new sobriquet for a serial flipper.

"Quit licking the lollypop you filthy faux chaton"

[omar-rye]

Originally Posted by Guppydriver

It's my new sobriquet for a serial flipper.

"Quit licking the lollypop you filthy faux chaton"

[SearChart]

Wouldn't call it cutting corners...

[CFR]

I often look to SJX for balance and context on these sorts of things:

"Another interesting detail is what appear to be gold chatons around some of the jewels. Chatons have been obsolete for decades, but some haute horlogerie brands, especially German brands, use them as an anachronistic showcase of craftsmanship since they are fitted by hand. In the cal. 7140, the chatons are in fact borders machined into the bridges that are then gold plated.

Because they are not actual rings fitted into the bridges, the faux chatons might be seen as a concession to economy. But the machining of the gold rings into the bridges is so impressively fine that I imagine most brands would find it cheaper use actual chatons since fitting chatons is an easy, albeit manual task. But because Rolex boasts peerless manufacturing prowess, machining faux chatons is a better option, both in terms of long-term serviceability and cost."

[worldofoyster]

rolex is testing water with the 1908

[DoricSpiker]

I get the point you are making OP but I don't think you should be disturbed by this!

Its a solid gold dress watch for less than £20k here in the UK. People say its too expensive but I don't get that when you look at some of the competitors. Any solid gold omega is the same money, gold reversos have went crazy in price the last 12 months, etc etc. Someone mentioned Glashutte, their solid gold 39.5mm SeaQ is £21k here, I know which one interests me most.

I am looking forward to seeing the watch in the flesh and if she wants to flash her chatons at me, I'm still interested!

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by worldofoyster

rolex is testing water with the 1908

If they do an Everose perpetual with a display back I'd be all over it.

Add moon phase too, go on Rokex, flex :)

[DaytonaImports]

Low quality details like that can really ruin a beautiful brand's reputation.

[douglasf13]

Originally Posted by SearChart

Wouldn't call it cutting corners...

Hey, the razor-thin chamfers are quite literally cutting corners!