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Old 11 October 2017, 03:26 AM   #1
Colin10101
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Interested in a Panerai

Hey guys,

I've decided my next move will be to expand my collection outside of Rolex. I've settled on 3 pieces max, and would like one of those pieces to be a Panerai. I really don't know much about the various Panerai models so I figured here would be a good place to start.

So far I have:
Rolex GMT 16710 Coke bezel

I would like:
Breitling Superocean Heritage 42 black dial on rubber.
Panerai??????

A little about me: I'm pretty casual; jeans and t-shirt to work, casual athletic wear outside of work. I don't have a huge wrist, so I think the max size I could do is 45mm. I very rarely dress up, so dressy watches are not my taste.

In terms of Panerai styling, I really enjoy painted numerals (vs sandwich) and gold hands. I'm not fussy on a glass case back, nor do I need a seconds hand or date (but don't mind either)I really enjoy the tobacco brown dials Panerai puts out but I would also be okay with a black dial. I would prefer automatic over manual wind but it's not a deal breaker. I already have a GMT watch, so no GMTs.

With this in mind, do you guys have any suggestions on pieces to check out? I recently saw a Panerai 390 sell near me and if I didn't have a wedding coming up I would have bought it that second. To me it is absolutely gorgeous, but I'm not sure I'll ever see one around me again (limited edition).

My max budget would be around 8k USD so it may have to be a used piece. I'm fine with this, but would prefer new.

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Old 11 October 2017, 04:49 AM   #2
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Old 11 October 2017, 05:00 AM   #3
Colin10101
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I love it. That looks like a 390 right? That's the one that got away from me.
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Old 11 October 2017, 05:09 AM   #4
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Take your time and enjoy the hunt, there's a lot to learn with Panerai (in a good way).

Based on what you are writing, the 390 really would be perfect. Or maybe something like a 116 or 118 with gold aftermarket hands (if the gold hands is really important)?
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Old 11 October 2017, 05:49 AM   #5
rootbeer7
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Originally Posted by Colin10101 View Post
I love it. That looks like a 390 right? That's the one that got away from me.
It is. It's my first Panerai and I truly love it.
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Old 11 October 2017, 06:05 AM   #6
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Why don’t you give Yorkdale a visit, Panerai boutique try a few pieces and see whichever fits best on your wrist and also your budget.
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Old 11 October 2017, 06:59 AM   #7
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Depends on your wrist size, 372 is good. Don't rule it out yet, but keep it in mind and try it on first.
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Old 11 October 2017, 07:06 AM   #8
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bought my first Panerai earlier this year. When I started looking I developed several things I wanted to obtain and some I didn't. I wanted the distinctive crown guard, a 300 meter water resistance, no larger than 44mm and I wanted to make sure it had a sapphire crystal and a calendar. This eliminated the various radomirs and some of the oddities that don't use sapphire as well as all base models. It also eliminated a lot of models with water resistance that runs for 30 meters to 100 meters, most of which have display backs. There are 300 meter watches with display backs. Then I began looking. The first one that struck me and was purchased was a rare 356 Daylight Chronograph. The appearance is really unique and it has some very unique features like the quick set date button on the exterior of the case. I purchased that one used with full kit and my son now wears it nearly daily alternating in his Rolex SD40. I then bought a 1392 and didn't care for it. This violated my desires as it had only 100 meters of water resistance. I quickly traded it for a 244 GMT with full kit which is a 40mm and moderately rare. I like the size, the deployant strap and the GMT feature. On both, I like the fact that I am not likely to see another one being worn by someone else wherever I happen to be. While I also wear a Rolex SD40 mainly, I prefer my Panerai as my dress watch. I haven't regretted either choice. Whenever I run across someone with a Panerai on, it is almost invariably a base model.

I'm not saying that you should do as I did but merely illustrating a way to go about it. For me it took a lot of looking. While I could afford any of new models, I didn't see any reason to spend money on anything that was new when excellent used models were abundant, attractive and such a better value.
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Old 11 October 2017, 08:58 AM   #9
Colin10101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick c View Post
Why don’t you give Yorkdale a visit, Panerai boutique try a few pieces and see whichever fits best on your wrist and also your budget.
Great plan! I hope to head out there within the month.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stockae92 View Post
Depends on your wrist size, 372 is good. Don't rule it out yet, but keep it in mind and try it on first.
That 372 is gorgeous; the styling ia pretty close to what I am looking for. I haven't tried on 47mm but I'm a bit skeptical of the size. I'll give it a chance at the boutique.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cru Jones View Post
Take your time and enjoy the hunt, there's a lot to learn with Panerai (in a good way).

Based on what you are writing, the 390 really would be perfect. Or maybe something like a 116 or 118 with gold aftermarket hands (if the gold hands is really important)?
So I'm learning! I'm pretty flexible on most of my preferences, but that 390 has stuck with me. The painted numerals, tobacco dial... just so beautiful. I'm not sure I'll see another in Canada for a while though!

Quote:
Originally Posted by flintsghost View Post
bought my first Panerai earlier this year. When I started looking I developed several things I wanted to obtain and some I didn't. I wanted the distinctive crown guard, a 300 meter water resistance, no larger than 44mm and I wanted to make sure it had a sapphire crystal and a calendar. This eliminated the various radomirs and some of the oddities that don't use sapphire as well as all base models. It also eliminated a lot of models with water resistance that runs for 30 meters to 100 meters, most of which have display backs. There are 300 meter watches with display backs. Then I began looking. The first one that struck me and was purchased was a rare 356 Daylight Chronograph. The appearance is really unique and it has some very unique features like the quick set date button on the exterior of the case. I purchased that one used with full kit and my son now wears it nearly daily alternating in his Rolex SD40. I then bought a 1392 and didn't care for it. This violated my desires as it had only 100 meters of water resistance. I quickly traded it for a 244 GMT with full kit which is a 40mm and moderately rare. I like the size, the deployant strap and the GMT feature. On both, I like the fact that I am not likely to see another one being worn by someone else wherever I happen to be. While I also wear a Rolex SD40 mainly, I prefer my Panerai as my dress watch. I haven't regretted either choice. Whenever I run across someone with a Panerai on, it is almost invariably a base model.

I'm not saying that you should do as I did but merely illustrating a way to go about it. For me it took a lot of looking. While I could afford any of new models, I didn't see any reason to spend money on anything that was new when excellent used models were abundant, attractive and such a better value.
Thanks for your story. Sounds like the take away is bide your time and get it right. I'm in no rush to make this decision
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Old 11 October 2017, 11:56 AM   #10
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If you like the tobacco dial, try a 351. Although discontinued, some ADs might still have one in the cupboard somewhere. However, personally I'd avoid the new 1351 because the blue seconds hand looks out of place on the dial. Titanium case too, so quite light.

Good luck and enjoy the hunt.
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Old 11 October 2017, 12:10 PM   #11
Colin10101
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If you like the tobacco dial, try a 351. Although discontinued, some ADs might still have one in the cupboard somewhere. However, personally I'd avoid the new 1351 because the blue seconds hand looks out of place on the dial. Titanium case too, so quite light.

Good luck and enjoy the hunt.
Thank you, Ruud! I love the look of the 351 - it has skyrocketed to the top of my list.

Panerai is great... so many different pieces.
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Old 11 October 2017, 05:38 PM   #12
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Thank you, Ruud! I love the look of the 351 - it has skyrocketed to the top of my list.

Panerai is great... so many different pieces.
and so many different straps....!!!!!
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Old 11 October 2017, 06:26 PM   #13
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Thank you, Ruud! I love the look of the 351 - it has skyrocketed to the top of my list.

Panerai is great... so many different pieces.
In keeping with the forum responsiblity of being an enabler, and to make the hunt more difficult (and worthwhile), I would opt for the 734 which is essentially a 'desert' version of the 351. Also in titanium, so it's lightweight.

Only problem is that it's restricted to the Panerai boutiques in the Middle East and retails for AED32,100 (approx US$8,800)
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Old 11 October 2017, 06:43 PM   #14
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To share my own thoughts, I left the brand several years back as my preferences changed (I wanted something smaller/lighter/less ‘blingy’). Coincidentally, I ended up returning to the brand recently with a model that:

• Is in titanium (I favour the brushed/matt look and the light weight)
• Has a domed crystal (creates an optical illusion of it wearing smaller)
• Has a GMT function (which works great when travelling)
• Has a manual movement and a decent power reserve (allows for more tactile interaction than an automatic; and is the only manual watch I own)
• Also happened to be a limited edition piece (the monopulsante function is a nice bonus but I rarely have any use for it!)

If I had to split hairs, the only thing I could/would change is having a date function, but we can’t have it all!

Morale of the story: Think about the rationale/must-have essential features, and it's pretty easy to narrow down your options from there.
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Old 11 October 2017, 07:22 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Colin10101 View Post
Thank you, Ruud! I love the look of the 351 - it has skyrocketed to the top of my list.

Panerai is great... so many different pieces.


351 is a great choice, but be sure to try one on first, as the automatic 1950 Luminor models (like the 312, 320, 351, etc.) wear differently than the Bettarini case Luminors (000, 111, 390, etc.). For some (the lucky ones ) there's no issue, but for others, the 1950s wear a bit thick and don't sit well on the wrist.

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Old 11 October 2017, 08:52 PM   #16
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I am old schooled. Go with 111, 000, 005, 112 or in titanium 176, 177, 118, 116, 61 or 55. All great pieces and better value in secondary market now. You will love it.
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Old 11 October 2017, 09:04 PM   #17
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How do you guys keep track of all these reference numbers

Colin, good luck in the hunt and enjoy Take a trip to Yorkdale and check out the boutique if you haven't already been. Lots there to keeps your senses tingling.

I got my first Panerai back in June and I have to say, it's probably my favourite watch at the moment!
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Old 11 October 2017, 09:44 PM   #18
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Sounds like you found what tickles your fancy. The 390 is a great piece. I like base models myself, and I will add some base references for you to check out.
000
372
009
002
232
210
380
Have fun
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Old 11 October 2017, 09:49 PM   #19
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Further to my last post, definitely try on the case first!! I tried a few and Bettarini 44 manual was the most comfortable. From there I decided on details. I went base as it's totally different to my Rolex/Tudor and wouldn't be in competition.
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Old 16 October 2017, 04:42 AM   #20
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Alright, an update! Today I went to the only Canadian Panerai Boutique (in Toronto) and tried on some pieces. The staff were very knowledgable, kind, and helpful. The piece I fell absolutely in love with on the wrist was the 632. The brown dial, gold hands, painted numbers... drool.

Now I need to figure out if I can make it work in the budget. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 16 October 2017, 05:38 AM   #21
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Alright, an update! Today I went to the only Canadian Panerai Boutique (in Toronto) and tried on some pieces. The staff were very knowledgable, kind, and helpful. The piece I fell absolutely in love with on the wrist was the 632. The brown dial, gold hands, painted numbers... drool.

Now I need to figure out if I can make it work in the budget. Thanks for the help guys!


The 632 is a nice looking model, but be sure you are aware of, and okay with, the many cost-cutting compromises of the 632 and its brethren:

* snap-on case back instead of screw-down (reducing water resistance from 300 meters to 100 meters);
* integrated bezel instead of two pieces (meaning if you badly damage the bezel, you'll also have to replace the case....$$$); and
* spring bars instead of screws (not a big deal, but less classic Panerai).

You will of course find people who don't care too much about all of this, but I think among traditional Paneristi, a majority are critical of these changes.

YMMV.

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Old 16 October 2017, 05:50 AM   #22
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I am thinking of adding a base model myself as a modern watch to wear as opposed to my vintage watches. I have looked into getting a used 000 or 112, but lately the prices of new ones has gone down and you can basically a new 560 or 562(Ti) for the same price as a 000 or 112.

Did they have any base models in the Toronto store?
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Old 16 October 2017, 11:47 AM   #23
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The 632 is a nice looking model, but be sure you are aware of, and okay with, the many cost-cutting compromises of the 632 and its brethren:

* snap-on case back instead of screw-down (reducing water resistance from 300 meters to 100 meters);
* integrated bezel instead of two pieces (meaning if you badly damage the bezel, you'll also have to replace the case....$$$); and
* spring bars instead of screws (not a big deal, but less classic Panerai).

You will of course find people who don't care too much about all of this, but I think among traditional Paneristi, a majority are critical of these changes.

YMMV.

Thanks for the information; I didn't know about most of that. I loved the piece so much on my wrist it doesn't deter me that much. The price for this model is right in my ideal budget range; the visual features are spot on (my wife to be commented she greatly preferred it to my GMT Coke); the ETA movement is robust and easy to service.. all these things are a big bonus to me.

Thanks for the heads up though! There is a lot to learn for me to learn about this brand and this was informative.

Quote:
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I am thinking of adding a base model myself as a modern watch to wear as opposed to my vintage watches. I have looked into getting a used 000 or 112, but lately the prices of new ones has gone down and you can basically a new 560 or 562(Ti) for the same price as a 000 or 112.

Did they have any base models in the Toronto store?
I don't remember seeing either of those models but to be honest I wasn't really looking for either of them. I sat down with the manager and went over my tastes and preferences (brown dials, gold hands etc..) and she brought out a couple different models for me to try.
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Old 16 October 2017, 02:28 PM   #24
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Thanks for the information; I didn't know about most of that. I loved the piece so much on my wrist it doesn't deter me that much. The price for this model is right in my ideal budget range; the visual features are spot on (my wife to be commented she greatly preferred it to my GMT Coke); the ETA movement is robust and easy to service.. all these things are a big bonus to me.

Thanks for the heads up though! There is a lot to learn for me to learn about this brand and this was informative.



I don't remember seeing either of those models but to be honest I wasn't really looking for either of them. I sat down with the manager and went over my tastes and preferences (brown dials, gold hands etc..) and she brought out a couple different models for me to try.

It’s probably the 1000 not 000. I’m sure they have the Pam 1000
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