Grand Seiko Bracelets

[tbreihan]

I recently acquired a GS Spring Drive GMT (SBGE0021). I was initially underwhelmed by the bracelet--it's not that I disliked it, I just found it underwhelming. Now that I've had the watch for about a month, I actually think it is one of the nicest bracelets out there:

• As Fleetlord and others have mentioned, the finish of the individual links is superb, and as good if not better than anything in the sub-$15K price range.

• The flex and articulation of the bracelet is great. The links are "double articulated"; meaning, they flex at the point where they are connected, and they also flex where the inner and outer links are permanently fixed. The bracelet also has a little bit of lateral flex designed in. This makes wearing comfort second to none.

• The fit of the end-link to the case is the tightest I've seen on any watch. I also own a Speedy Pro (which has a little bit of side-to-side play--thickness of a piece of printer paper) and a Tudor BBN Rose (which has a tiny bit of side-to-side play--thickness of a piece of tissue paper). I also compared my GS to a new 116570 Explorer II at time of purchase (I was wearing my BBN that day) and the Explorer II, while being tighter than my Tudor, still has a tiny but perceptible side-to-side play. The GS, on the other hand, has ZERO movement of the end link--to the point that it is actually quite difficult to remount because the spring bar has to be positioned perfectly.

• The clasp is well-executed, for what it is. The outer edges of the fold-over are chamfered and polished; the push-button clasp is very precisely machined and assembled; it closes securely with no feeling that it will accidentally open. The twin-push-button is not my favorite style of clasp for security purposes (that would go a flip-lock / Oysterlock style), but I suspect is more secure than the standard Oysterclasp, which requires movement in one direction only (as opposed to movement in two opposing directions) to open.

• Obviously, the biggest issue is the lack of microadjustment. I do find this incredibly annoying in principle. In practice, however, it has not been an issue for me yet.

Overall, I think it is a very nice bracelet. I agree that the styling is perhaps derivative and not as distinctive as GS's case design, but on the wrist, it just works!

Best regards!

[Old Expat Beast]

Originally Posted by tbreihan

I recently acquired a GS Spring Drive GMT (SBGE0021). I was initially underwhelmed by the bracelet--it's not that I disliked it, I just found it underwhelming. Now that I've had the watch for about a month, I actually think it is one of the nicest bracelets out there:

• As Fleetlord and others have mentioned, the finish of the individual links is superb, and as good if not better than anything in the sub-$15K price range.

• The flex and articulation of the bracelet is great. The links are "double articulated"; meaning, they flex at the point where they are connected, and they also flex where the inner and outer links are permanently fixed. The bracelet also has a little bit of lateral flex designed in. This makes wearing comfort second to none.

• The fit of the end-link to the case is the tightest I've seen on any watch. I also own a Speedy Pro (which has a little bit of side-to-side play--thickness of a piece of printer paper) and a Tudor BBN Rose (which has a tiny bit of side-to-side play--thickness of a piece of tissue paper). I also compared my GS to a new 116570 Explorer II at time of purchase (I was wearing my BBN that day) and the Explorer II, while being tighter than my Tudor, still has a tiny but perceptible side-to-side play. The GS, on the other hand, has ZERO movement of the end link--to the point that it is actually quite difficult to remount because the spring bar has to be positioned perfectly.

• The clasp is well-executed, for what it is. The outer edges of the fold-over are chamfered and polished; the push-button clasp is very precisely machined and assembled; it closes securely with no feeling that it will accidentally open. The twin-push-button is not my favorite style of clasp for security purposes (that would go a flip-lock / Oysterlock style), but I suspect is more secure than the standard Oysterclasp, which requires movement in one direction only (as opposed to movement in two opposing directions) to open.

• Obviously, the biggest issue is the lack of microadjustment. I do find this incredibly annoying in principle. In practice, however, it has not been an issue for me yet.

Overall, I think it is a very nice bracelet. I agree that the styling is perhaps derivative and not as distinctive as GS's case design, but on the wrist, it just works!

Best regards!

Useful post, thanks Tim

[Watchfamm]

I have an SBGA001. The bracelet is Solid and well Crafted in Steel but I can’t seem to find that sweet spot without the micro adjustment. Would’ve been better if these GS Bracelets had some sort of a micro adjustment link or extra space hidden in the clasp. When I checked with friends some complained from the same “not being able to find the comfortable spot” on wrist.



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[Dantelito22]

My biggest qualm w/ GS (non diver bracelets) is the clasp does not sit flush with the bracelet. It sticks up around an 1/8th of an inch. I'm noticing it with most of their models within the Heritage collection or those that are not dive watches. I can look past that they're not as robust as my Omega Aqua Terra bracelet and lack micro adjustments, but at this price point I expect the clasp to sit flush. It's bothersome as my Seiko SJE073 at a 1/3rd of the price doesn't have this issue.

[Rollieo]

I’ll start by saying that GS does an amazing job with the case, dial, bezel. The craftsmanship is top notch, arguably better than Rolex and many other manufacturers. That speaks a lot.

With that said, I am not a fan of the bracelet. Old Expat, seeing your pictures, your bracelet does seem really nice. I don’t see most of the issues that I have with my GS bracelet, as well as most of the other GS bracelets I’ve seen.

A few pictures below, and feedback in order.

1. Links are nice. Agreed with what others said, notably fleet lord. You can see that especially in the first image. It’s well made, nice finishing, rounded edges, solid feel, nice design.

2. Not a lot of watches have a taper on the links going from the lugs to the clasp, but Rolex does and I really like it. The taper makes it so much easier to wear and comfortable. GS is definitely lacking there.

3. The clasp is terrible. It’s a bit hard to explain, but it’s just a big clasp that looks like cheap sheet metal. The way that it overhangs over the links, the size of those holes for the micro adjustment, how it dangles from that single point. It’s all really bad. I mean it was on a $250 watch it’d be acceptable. But this is a $6k watch. Compare it to my DJ36, which is in the $5k price range and has an easy link. Or Omega SMP, no taper but clasp is solid.

Rolex has amazing consistency and quality across all their watches. I’ve said this in other posts as well, but GS needs to up their game on their bracelets and reduce the thickness. If they did these two things from a product standpoint (without getting into marketing, variant choice, supply control), I’d say they’d have the absolute best watches in the world in the $5k range.

[1William]

The bracelet and clasp should be better based on the quality of the case finishing and watch.

[ap1]

Why do they have stretch right away? I suppose it’s what also makes them comfy though. I always think of the old day dates held sideways to show the bracelet stretch. They aren’t that bad right away obviously but there is give for sure

[mattmartin]

Originally Posted by richierichie

Does anyone here have experience handling both Grand Seiko bracelets AND non-GS bracelets from Seiko? Like their $800+ SARBs or Dive Watches? I'm curious on the difference in build/quality..

I have a Speedy Pro, and I don't really like the look of the bracelet. Quality is nice, but I just feel a modern Rolex Oyster bracelet is second to none (appearance and build/quality).

I (used to) have an IWC bracelet and those were pretty darn nice. Lots of heft, quality and easy to use micro adjustment (didn't need to remove the watch to adjust). The appearance is just too fancy for my typical attire/style that I never really wore it.

Here is my video comparing a titanium 5-link from GS with a Seiko prospex 5-link.
http://Comparison: Grand Seiko sbgh2...be/UZexh7dlgWc

http://https://youtu.be/UZexh7dlgWc

[DoctorA]

I love my GS. From the dial details to the case craftsmanship to the bracelet engineering, it’s a piece of art!
If it had a crown or a cross on the dial it would’ve gone for 5-6 times its current prices
They just need to make fewer LEs, SEs, anniversary and other whatever reason to produce another model. A little variability in their cases wouldn’t hurt either

[Cru Jones]

Having now owned a GS bracelet (on SBGE249) for over a year, I can say that I really like it. Beautiful finishing, comfortable, sturdy, attractive and thin with a discrete clasp that gets the job done with style. No, it doesn’t have a micro adjustment, but it fits me well and my GS isn’t a diver, so why does it “need” that? It doesn’t. Oh, and AP and PP seem to be doing just fine without micro adjustment... ;-)

[Rollieo]

Originally Posted by mattmartin

Here is my video comparing a titanium 5-link from GS with a Seiko prospex 5-link.
http://Comparison: Grand Seiko sbgh2...be/UZexh7dlgWc

http://https://youtu.be/UZexh7dlgWc

Nice review, thanks for sharing.

I like the tapered links, GS did well there. I’ll re-iterate that the individual links on GS are done really well it. It’s the clasp that is just really bad.


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[Mr_Pacman]

Originally Posted by CKL1213

GS is top notch on the dial, case, markers, hands, movement...

but when it comes to bracelets construction, to be honest they are still lacking behind Rolex (the modern Rolex) and Omega.

Interesting. I recently picked up a Marine Master 300 (SLA021) and think it's a fantastic watch but found the bracelet to be ok and the clasp was a bit of an afterthought. I assumed the GS divers would have a different clasp system, but from the looks of your photo, it's the exact same bracelet and clasp that's on my MM300 with the exception of the GS logo on the fold over lock.

[toxicavenger]

Originally Posted by Mr_Pacman

it's the exact same bracelet and clasp that's on my MM300 with the exception of the GS logo on the fold over lock.

Isn't the one on the 300 a ratcheting clasp? It is a pretty basic clasp but it is a proven design. Kind like the older folder clasp Rolex used for 40 years that was made out of old tin cans.

[Mr_Pacman]

Originally Posted by toxicavenger

Isn't the one on the 300 a ratcheting clasp? It is a pretty basic clasp but it is a proven design. Kind like the older folder clasp Rolex used for 40 years that was made out of old tin cans.

It is a ratcheting clasp and appears to be the same one posted in this thread that is on the GS diver. A good portion of the clasp is milled vs stamped on the old rolex bracelets.