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Old 31 December 2022, 03:50 PM   #1
BumbleB
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Incoming AP 3120 movement (in Chanel J12 H2819)

I guess it qualifies as an AP post as this movement is a 3120 Audemars Piguet movement in a rare AP/Chanel colab.

I recently acquired this 42mm Matte Chanel J12 with AP movement from 2012 (which is no longer in production as Chanel now uses its co-owned Kenissi movements).

As I couldn’t find any information on TRF about this ‘below the radar’ rare AP collaboration collectable, I thought i’d do a little write-up here. I’m not aware if any other AP collaborations with other watch makers.

While not explicitly advertised, this watch used a movement supplied by Audemars Piguet – the same caliber found originally in the Royal Oak Offshore and in many other of their Royal Oak watches.

The 3120 AP movement is referred to as the 3125 inside the Chanel J12 3125 due to minor differences. The movement has a classic 21,600 vph beat rate and 60 hours of power reserve. It has a full balance bridge for added shock protection, and its gyromax style free-sprung balance further protects it from deviating from its initial regulation.

The J12 40 jewels Calibre 3125 comes in 18K yellow gold and black ceramic. The fusion of the AP 3120 movement and J12 ceramic has produced the 3125 movement ; Chanel has redesigned the balance bridge ans the rotor is clad in black ceramic.

Aside from the novelty factor, it’s a really beautiful watch with its 42mm case, matte black ceramic and 18k gold design. It’s a stealth wealth watch which currently sells for around USD20k if you can find one…











The Audemars Piguet 3120 movement:



Chanel’s modified 3120 movement, the 3125. Chanel has redesigned the balance bridge and the rotor is clad in black ceramic:



Note the AP3125 on the base plate of the movement, right under the balance bridge.


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Old 31 December 2022, 11:57 PM   #2
mykii
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It's so cool that the AP3125 markings remain on the Chanel movement. All class.
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Old 1 January 2023, 12:23 AM   #3
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Cool, learned something new today!
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Old 3 January 2023, 08:51 PM   #4
BumbleB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VogelPhoenix View Post
Cool, learned something new today!


Quote:
Originally Posted by mykii View Post
It's so cool that the AP3125 markings remain on the Chanel movement. All class.


Cheers, I also learned this from a seasoned watch collector, it’s really a great ‘nugget’ of horological intel


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Old 3 January 2023, 10:17 PM   #5
1William
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Congratulations.
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Old 4 January 2023, 03:19 AM   #6
Dave from NYC
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Love this bit of trivia. Super interesting. Thanks for sharing!
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